by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
Umarex Strike Point multi-pump pistol.
This report covers:
- The test
- Sig Match Ballistic Alloy
- The sights
- RWS Superdome
- Air Arms Falcons
- RWS HyperMax
- Crosman Premier light
- RWS Hobby
- Evaluation
Today we test the accuracy of the new Umarex Strike Point multi-pump pistol. This test is the one we have all been waiting to see. The Strike Point is firmly in competition with the Crosman 1377, and we want to know how it stacks up downrange.
The test
I shot from 10 meters off a sandbag rest. I shot 5 shots per target because this is a multi-pump. If any pellet grouped well, I would shoot another 10 shots with that pellet. I pumped the gun 4 times per shot, because the velocity test indicated that would be okay.
Sig Match Ballistic Alloy
The first pellet I tested was the Sig Match Ballistic Alloy pellet. It wasn’t tested in the velocity test, but this pellet has proved remarkably accurate in many airguns and I thought it deserved a test. Five pellets went into a 2.922-inch group. I’m not showing the dime in this photo because it makes no sense. This is a huge group for 10 meters! Also I noticed that 4 of the five pellet holes showed some tipping of the pellet as it passed through the target.
The Strike Point pistol, firing 5 Sig Match Ballistic Alloy pellets, made this 2.922-inch group at 10 meters. Notice that 4 of the 5 holes show pellet tipping.
This first result put me on my guard. This test became very serious. I know I am a good pistol shot, and at at 10 meters I cannot be this bad on my own! This has to be the pistol. Okay, perhaps it doesn’t like this pellet. I need to make a dramatic change.
The sights
I thought seeing the sights was going to be a problem, but they were easy to see. Even though the front sight is as wide as the bullseye, it can touch the 6-o’clock position with precision. And my fear that it was too wide for the rear notch was unfounded. It just fit inside the rear notch when the pistol was at arm’s length. The low hood wasn’t a problem today, but it will be when the target is not as well-defined as paper bullseyes that are brightly lit.
RWS Superdome
The second pellet I tested was the RWS Superdome. The first shot hit the lower left edge of the target paper. I shifted the aim point to the top of the bull for shot number two and that pellet dropped below the pellet trap, putting a hole in the shelf the trap was sitting on! That’s a drop of 10 inches. That ended the test with Superdomes!
Air Arms Falcons
I didn’t have to change the target for the third pellet, which was the Air Arms Falcon. Five of them went into a group that measures 2.528-inches between centers. I may as well tell you — this is the best group I was able to shoot with the pistol! I didn’t know that at the time, though, so the test continued.
The Strike Point put 5 Falcon pellets into a group measuring 2.528-inches between centers. This is the best group I shot with the Strike Point in this test. As you can see, a couple of these pellets tipped also.
RWS HyperMax
The Strike Point is an Umarex airgun and I wanted to give their pellets a good test, so the next pellet I tested was the RWS HyperMax lead free pellet. Umarex and RWS are different companies, but Umarex USA is also RWS USA, so they have a close association. I figured their pellets would be the ones this pistol was tested with.
Well the first pellet missed the target altogether and the test was over. I’m not going to shoot up the wall in my garage just to prove a point!
Crosman Premier light
Next I shot the Crosman Premier light dome. Four of the five shots hit the paper in a group that measures more than 6-1/2-inches between centers I have no idea where the fifth shot went. The fourth pellet only nicked the edge of the target paper on the left, which I indicated with an arrow on the target. If the target hadn’t been taped to a cardboard backer I would have missed this shot, too.
Four out of five Crosman Premier light pellets hit the target paper at 10 meters. One shot only nicked the left edge of the paper.
RWS Hobby
The first RWS Hobby pellet missed the target altogether and the accuracy test was over.
Evaluation
Based on the results of this test I cannot recommend the Umarex Strike Point pistol. Could I have gotten a lemon? Yes, that’s always possible. If this gun were made by Benjamin, a company with an established reputation of making multi-pump pneumatics, I might think that was the case. But Umarex has no reputation for multi-pump pneumatic pistol. As far as I know, this is the first multi-pump pistol they have made. I have to believe the test pistol is representative of what the customer will receive.
The Strike Point has several things going against it. The trigger is positioned oddly forward and the trigger pull is far too heavy. The front sight is overly large, plus the low hood makes it difficult to find the target. The rear sight only adjusts for windage, which I would have looked at, had the test pistol been able to shoot a decent group.
In the end it is the lack of accuracy that closes this report. I cannot give this pistol a good recommendation in light of today’s test results.
Well at least it’s a role model of what a air gun manufacturer should not do.
But I still have to wonder if there is more to than the trigger and the sights.
BB what did the pellets feel like when you loaded them? And are you sure it’s .177 caliber. I have seen air guns mislabeled as to what caliber they are. And that’s even on expensive guns. Maybe this gun is really a .22 caliber.
GF1,
This is a .177 pistol. The pellets fit well but in all cases they entered the breech easily.
B.B.
B.B.,
I can’t say that you ought to try its accuracy by shooting it from a vise as some of my locals would do. Knowing how you have been conducting tests over the years your testing methodology and shooting technique are unquestionable. There are no fanboys of this pistol I can see online. I think this is a product that got needlessly rushed out into production. The Strike Point has struck out.
Siraniko
Not to give it a second chance, but since the wadcutters showed tipping, what’s the chance you are having a clipping issue with the baffles on all of the pellets?
45Bravo,
It is obvious something bad is happening. It could be the baffles, or a bad crown or poor rifling. The pistol is constructed in such a unitized way that it is impossible to diagnose what is wrong. I looked inside the muzzle but cannot see anything.
I have to accept it as it stands.
B.B.
Works for me..
And it sends Umarex a message.
Unless it’s a legend series, make sure you develop an airgun on functionality not on aesthetics.
Looks like looks outweighed function on this one. Maybe a bad barrel. I read the reviews on the Strike Point. I could not tell from the reviews on the PA order page if your accuracy test was typical, there was not enough details.
Don
Dod,
It’s too new for a lot of information yet.
B.B.
I like definitive results of evaluations, I just wish it was definitive in the other direction.
I think slugging the bore as GF1 almost got around to suggesting, would be interesting.
Sean,
The unitized way this airgun is made make accurate slugging nearly impossible. The baffles will contact the pellet as it is pushed through the bore.
B.B.
BB
I figured it out !
3 to 4 pumps is only good for shooting in basements….really, ( Read the PA description ) You need 8 to 10 pumps for ‘target’ shooting. Please don’t slap your forehead 🙂
Bob,
The difference is about 100 fps from 4 to 8 pumps. I would at least try 1 pellet (off the record) at 8 pumps to see what happens. That extra 100 may make a difference, but I doubt it.
My initial reaction today was,…….. “Oh My!!!!” and a big 🙁
BB,
Wow, that is bad. You could not even use it to shoot feral soda cans at point blank range. The only way you could hit the side of the barn from the inside is if you threw the pistol at it.
As 45Bravo has suggested, you may have a clipping issue.
Some good ideas on possible remedies. If all else fails, this thing is just begging to be sold as a combo package. I’m thinking to pair it up with a pellet trap. A BIG pellet trap. Maybe something sized on the order of 3 feet by 3 feet.
Good Day one and all,…. Chris
🙂
And instructions stating “for best results, not to be fired at targets farther than arms length from the gun.”
So it shoots as good as it looks.
Good observation! 🙂
If my only experience with airguns had been pistols, I would have given them up. I do have a Crosman 1720T that is quite accurate, but I enjoy it a lot more with a carbine stock. It’s really a small rifle with a chopped stock. I have had a 1377 (brand new) that could not get the sights aligned to hit anything , a couple of Beeman P17’s that were reasonably accurate for a few weeks until the o rings failed, A Benjamin Trail NP that was generally ugly, hard to cock, and inaccurate, and still own a beautiful Webley Premier so nice that I forgive the inability to hit a can beyond about 15 yds.
My brother has a Baikal IZH-46M that shoots quite well. I would likely get one of those if they were reasonable.
I suppose my experiences with the P17 are abnormal, but so far I am still (apart from the 1720T) not too happy with air pistols, generally. I can hit better with my Glock than most of them.
Jerry,
I have a pair of P17’s and they shoot exceptionally well.
Per the general posts on the Web, the problems with the compression chamber O-rings are due to burrs on the air inlet on some pistols. I disassembled and gave both of mine a bit of TLC and they have been great.
Pistols are fun but like you, I much prefer rifles.
Hank
One of the two I own was reworked out of the box by an airgunsmith before I bought it to improve this known issue.
The first one shot OK for six months, although the rear sight was affected (don’t know how anyone avoids this) by the pressure of cocking it, and it eventually broke, simultaneously, it’s o-rings failed and I put it in a box after taking it apart and gave up the idea of repairing it. I will not claim much success as a gunsmith.
The second (2X cost) shot well for about two sessions, and developed a leak that would lose all the air in about two minutes, and affect accuracy in most any case. Still got it. I’d rather shoot the 1720T, it’s very accurate…
My brother has a P3 that is pretty good, and has lasted a long time. Maybe I have been unlucky, but I dislike the sights and especially the fact that cocking it almost requires smashing your hand on the rear sight. Both the hand and the sight suffer.
Know what you mean about the cocking on P17 – it is heavy and you have to watch that you don’t pinch your hand.
As I use mine for casual plinking at close range, I reduced the cocking force (and velocity) to a comfortable level… soda cans don’t need 400 fps to “kill” them. 🙂
Hank
I just rest the gun on my thigh and use the face of my palm, forward of the rear sight..Not too bad to close this way.
That works – done it many times 🙂
I ended up making a jig so that my 11 year old granddaughter could load the P17 without my help.
JerryC,
If you can get your hands on a Daisy 777 ( or 747 I suppose) or a Crosman Mark I you my change your mind.
Half
Your experiences with the P17 aren’t really abnormal. It is an incredible gun for the money when it works, but the o-rings tend to clip/wear/fail. The P3 is the original and will last for years.
If someone made a reasonably expensive, reliable and accurate air pistol (not a CO2) that did not look like a repurposed lawn implement, I would buy one today. Add to that, it should be small enough to be considered a pistol. Ugliness might be forgivable if everything else is OK.
B.B.
That Strike Point pistol that you have has to be a lemon – I can’t see a company going to production with something that shoots that poorly.
The days of being able to dump junk on the market are past. Reviews on the WEB will condemn that approach in a hurry and with serious loss of credibility as well.
Any chance that you can get another pistol to check the accuracy? I can shoot better groups than that with a slingshot!
Hank
Hank,
I agree that this test pistol is probably a lemon — BUT, the features I criticized are on every gun! There is no getting past that!
B.B.
B.B.
I don’t care for the design and styling of the Strike Point – I am more of a traditional old fogie – but each to their own.
Regardless of personal tastes, I think that all shooters have an expectation of “reasonable accuracy” and the Strike Point that you tested is very obviously not up to snuff.
That is why I thought a accuracy retest of another pistol might be useful for some readers.
Cheers!
Hank
I Think you are correct. This thing is a major lemon. I have a Umarex APX NPG multi pump rifle (BB has reviewed this one too) that didn’t impress me with it’s accuracy at first. I’m still testing it, but it really came to life when I went to the RWS Meistergugeln rifle pellets. I tried a Umarex/Ruger Explorer, and ended up returning it as it wouldn’t meet my accuracy standards, and the automatic safety often didn’t engauge.
I’m not interested in this Umarex pistol. I’ll stick with my Crosman 1377 and 1322. These are both now short carbines with scopes, skeleton stocks, and steel breeches I installed, and are both accurate enough for me, and I don’t need a pellet trap the size of my car.
But, seriously, I think we all know Umarex can make good, accurate air guns. This one has to be a major lemon.
Hank, after a close look at the gun, I don’t think BB got a lemon. The design is poor, the construction is poor, and I would be astonished if the accuracy across the board isn’t poor.
B.B.,
Well, with all the effort my wife put into redesigning the trigger to make it more ergonomic, I now feel kind of silly. In the end it was an exercise in polishing a lemon.
Well, if the delivery person brings you lemons, send ’em back! ;^)
Michael
Umarex would like us to believe this is a Tootsie Roll, but now we all know what it really is. 😉
Half
i like the mechanical honesty of the 1377, a tough act to follow for $40.
The strikepoint styling is what a youngster thinks is cool maybe?
The upgrade path for the Crosman 1377 is another virtue we tinkerers value.
i would say you are at least a very good shot sir!
good day folks
“The upgrade path for the Crosman 1377 is another virtue we tinkerers value.”
1stblue, you nailed it; I’ve owned three 1377s, and all were nice accurate shooters;
but the best is this one that was tinkered to death (& turned into a .22)…love it.
Yet I concur with what B.B. said below; I did want to see the Strike Point succeed on its own merits;
even if it couldn’t be modded, I at least wanted to see it make it as a backyard plinker;
I did not want to see it totally strike out.
As a design engineer, I do have one sentence of advice for Umarex:
“The next time you want to try and build a pump up pistol,
PLEASE, for the love of God, hire an engineer who LOVES air pistols
AND is an ACTUAL shooter of them; thank you!”
I would add only that without knowing the design requirements or the intended user group, its hard to know whether Umarex has suceeded or not. But,I think you would be the guy i would come to, to see if my pretty pictures are doable or not. Manufacturing,materials and processes and profit are are hugely important, but trying to improve a fork is no easy task.But we love the challenge!Perhaps the little Crosman pistol could be considered iconic?Regards, 1stblue
Sure thing; I’m the photo guys for our group at work.
If you have a pic that you’d like touched up before posting,
just shoot it to me ( thedavemyster@gmail.com );
I’ll do the best I can and send if back to you, =D
I had a mixed experiences with air pistols and like most readers I would like to see better products in the market, even with the associated higher price tags that quality brings, particularly in the spring category.
My first spring air pistol was a Diana 6G, expensive at the time, but worth every penny. It still shoots remarkably well, after many years and two resealing and spring replacement surgeries. I should have stopped there, but no, I had to try more.
My next acquisition was a single stroke pneumatic. Not being able to find a IZH-46M and not liking the P1 ergos I bought a P17. It shoots quite well too . . . when it shoots, that is. A quick pull of the trigger works most times, but a slow squeeze fails 50% of the time. Unloading that pressurized device ain’t fun. A couple of attempts to work on the trigger mechanism were only partially successful. It’s still in the bench waiting for the next intervention.
OK, I said, let’s get a simple plinker – what can go wrong? I bought a Benji Nitro Piston. I managed to ignore the ugly, the sights and (almost) the trigger but I couldn’t ignore the open patterns. Seems better suited to fend off rogue 5 gallon pain buckets rather than soda cans. ‘nough said.
Finally I bought a 1701P that is great, no complains there. Just pump it up, and it works beautifully.
In the end, I totally agree with Tom’s point. There may be ways to improve a faulty airgun, but we need to think that something like this bad example is what we could get in the store. We need to reward with our money good efforts from engineers, manufacturers and QC people while leaning to ignore marketing department inflated claims. Just my $0.02.
Henry
Henry,
“There may be ways to improve a faulty airgun, but we need to think that something like this bad example is what we could get in the store.”
That is my point, exactly! This is something that might happen to anyone.
If readers take the time to read Parts 1 and 2 they will see that I was rooting for this pistol. I wanted to see it succeed.
B.B.
BB
That’s true that onyone could get one like this.
But if you got another one and it shoots the same then they did something wrong on these guns.
But if you don’t get another. Then indeed the one you have is a lemon. The next question then would be. How many lemons are there out there.
Henry
Don’t give up on the Benji NP pistol yet. Mine behaved like yours until the trigger pull somehow got easier with passing time. Snuggled on sand bags it delivers 10 shot groups well under an inch at 10 meters with the plastic cocking assist removed. I do use the round end of cocking assist to cock the pistol.
Decksniper
Yes Decksniper, I agree that I should give it more opportunities, and actually that is a big part of my hobby. It’s just irritating that they would ship such a rough product. Of course, I wasn’t expecting super high quality for the price, but at least some pride from the manufacturer. On the other hand, your results are tempting me to take a deeper look and see if something can be done to improve things. My work area is being remodeled at this time but in a month or so I should be able to give it a try. I will let you know what happens.
Thanks!
Henry
Looking forward to hearing that your NP pistol broke in well. Mine likes both RWS Hobby and RWS Basic which are popular priced. I do have a pistol scope mounted because I don’t like “glow worm” sights for target shooting.
Decksniper
Guys
I also have the NP pistol and I feel that it is as accurate as I expected it to be. I have mounted a red dot site on mine which is quick on target but can reduce precision. As an example, the dot is the same size as the center dot of a shoot n see target at 25 feet.
DeckSniper, thanks for the pellet suggestions for it. So far I have only tried a couple kinds.
Gerald
Gerald
Glad to do so. You likely already know that each gun is different even though it is the same model. Yours may or may not like Hobbys and Basics.
Decksniper
To new readers
I have owned or shot several multi pump airguns. All have been keepers for accuracy and one is extremely accurate. The number of pumps after at least 3 has little corelation to accuracy at 10 meters. The point of impact (POI) can change so use the same number of pumps when shooting a group. Others may have had different outcomes. There is always the chance of getting a lemon like BB got. Even a kid’s first smoothbore air rifle would beat this one.
Decksniper
Up date on the em-ge got the spring from Vortek Jacob there was very helpful and got me set with an appropriate spring. However the spring was to long, with no idea on the original length I cut it to nearly the same size as the existing spring length. I feel I did an ok job squaring the end, at least good enough for the guns I shoot. The first seal I made had too short of a sidewalk but the current seal seems to be working well. My velocities are all over the place from 475 to 625 fps, with a fair amount of smoke. Not sure what to make of this the advertised power is 560 fps so hopefully it will settle in around there.
Carl
Carl,
That gun may smoke its entire life. Many older rifles with leather piston seals do. Nothing wrong with it.
By sidewalk I assume you meant sidewall. That’s something that comes with experience. Making the seal does take some practice.
B.B.
Here’s a photo
Carl,
The new seal looks great!
B.B.
Coduece,
The old spring appears that maybe someone may have left the rifle cocked for a long period of time. The coils look like they are compressed. It could be that if the old spring was expanded to it’s original length it would be the same length as the new spring. I’m thinking maybe you should not have cut the length down?
Geo
Geo,
That is a tuff call. What was it? Nobody knows. GF1 has removed as much as 3″ from a spring and had no drop in fps. So, length is not everything. That test at least proved that. Beyond that, I have not studied spring rates in depth and I am not as mathematically skilled as most here. Vortek I would think would be very expert on the topic of springs/spring rates, etc..
If it were me, I would try for a spring with the same wind rate per inch and the same wire diameter,… and maybe just a tad longer. 1″ longer max., I would think. That should make up for any possible? spring sag.
Carl,
Here is crazy thought. Maybe someone put grease and solid bits of brass? into the transfer port with the idea that is would force/hold the cupped seal open more and force it to seal better? I don’t know. In theory, it makes sense. That was a super weird thing to find though.
B.B.
Thanks all I did was follow your instructions. /blog/2007/12/how-to-make-a-leather-piston-seal/
I just checked it cocks with about 18 lbs of effort. Hopefully around 550 fps after it settles in. The gun weighs about 4 3/4 lbs pretty handy.
Carl
Here it is
Coduece,
Is this your gun?
https://forum.vintageairgunsgallery.com/em-ge/em-ge-model-2-air-rifle/
Half
Half
Wish mine looked that good but yes looks like the same gun.
Carl
Half
Thanks for the link now I can show people how it should look.
Half
Looking closer, around the receiver next to the end cap instead of mod. 2 mine says krone. But the rest is very similar.
Carl
Cool; that’s a sweet little gun!
Here’s a group after about 100 shots. 10 Crosman 7.9 at 10 yds. Not great but six of them gives me hope I felt good about all the shots but I do hear difference in the shots a couple a little louder a couple a little lower sounding. Hope this sorts it’s self out.
Carl,
Glad you got it back together. The seal looks real nice. I am amazed that you got a piece of leather to do that much of a cup shape.
I may have missed it, or forgot,.. but why did you replace the spring? That old one looks pretty good.
The seal was an obvious needs fixed,… but did you consider trying a synthetic seal of some sorts? It looks to be held on with that brass slot screw in the end.
Chris before I installed the piston I smeared the leather seal with a moly-graphite grease? I also smeared the spring Lucas oil red and tacky.
Carl
Carl,
Red grease sounds good. Moly? Interesting. I would think that the seal thickness would be key. Too thin could allow blow-by. Stiffness, but just right, would be key. Since it is a parachute type seal, you would think that, by design, it would allow a lot of forgiveness. I do not know. Pliability with correct thickness. A fine balance perhaps? The high fps spread is interesting, but not surprising.
Shoot some more and see what it does,… as you said.
Oh, did you figure out what the brass bits were?
Chris
Never did figure out the brass bits, but I did save the remnants for further forensic testing as well as the old breech seal which was leather. I replaced the breech seal with an o-ring that I cut and super glued. I could cock the gun with two fingers before I replaced the spring, now it seems more appropriate. I’m guessing the piston seal will need some breaking in, hopefully tomorrow will be brighter and drier so I can chrony test.
Carl
Carl,
Sounds good. You are definitely forging new ground! The spring is different. Less coils per inch and maybe? the same wire diameter. As for a piston seal,… I was thinking fender washer,.. larger,. smaller for 2-3 and then again larger. Put the “squish” to an O-ring (or) flat synthetic washer (over the smaller fender washers),.. to fatten it up. Or something custom made, but with the same idea. From your work experience,… I am sure that you are already “cooking up” alternative ideas.
I admire your willingness to try the leather approach. That had to be a real learning experience.
Chris
Learning experience for sure it took two tries on the seal to get it right which remains to be seen. The spring after I cut it I just heated the last coil with a propane torch and bent it against the first coil, then ground it smooth. thirty more pellets and it’s improved. Down to 1 1/2 “ so it has steadily improved all day.
Carl,
Sounds good. As I am sure you know ,… heating and tempering can be tricky. Too brittle and you could end with a snapped off piece of spring. I have cut a spring, but never heated it. I just cut it as square as I could.
I do remember that:,….. very slow, keep it cool, take your time,…. was that advice given to me at the time.
Chris
Hope fully what I heated will hang in there I was just winging it. It’s super easy to disassemble no press required so if I have to redo something nbd.
Carl
Geo
I’m wondering too, however uncut the spring would have had almost 5 “ preload. When I chrony tested this morning I was bracketing the advertised power of 560 fps with shots from 475 to 625 fps so hopefully it’s going to settled around 550. And with 18 lbs cocking effort it seems ok. And it does seem like it’s settling in as my groups have steadily shrank all day.from 6”+ to around an 1 1/2” with about 150 shots.
Carl
Coduece,
The brass bits could possibly be from the screw slamming on the end once the leather seal had disintegrated. Was there still some preload with the new spring?
Siraniko
Siraniko
Yes about two inch’s preload I’m able compress it by hand. The brass bits are still a mystery.
Carl
Good testing, poor results.
I too saw the same accuracy from my .22 version of the StrikePoint, I believe they’ll all be lemons 🙁
But, if its sold under the price of a 13xx it still is a useful airgun.
The plastic is strong, the pumping mech is robust, should handle the abuse of new shooters that can often be rough on airguns (ages 10-99).
Someone may find the magic pellet, maybe itll like cheapy Gamos best?, but i kinda doubt it.
Not every air pistol is a gem,but I am certain Umarex will now revist what makes a “good” air pistol and adjust their design.
A better barrel, maybe up the price accordingly, would REALLY benefit this pistol. I bet someone is modding one as we speak?
Tough to beat a 13xx, as this test proves. Thanks for reassuring my findings BB, carry on good Sir
Erockrocket,
Thank you so much! You are the first person to respond who has seen and tested the pistol. Now we know the test pistol wasn’t just a lemon — or at least the probability of that has just dropped.
B.B.
I bought one of these way back when they first came out.
The folks that designed it did some clever engineering, both in how its made and built, and to avoid any copyright infringement lawsuit from Crosman. After I recieved it , shot it a few times, and only afew times. It starts to get hard to pump after the 3rd or 4th pump, its not accurate, and its not very ergonomic.
This DESIGN, but not this incarnation of it, has potential. Umarex needs to simplify the trigger system and reduce the number of those unnecessarily stout springs. THe screws used to hold the clamshelss together
will eventually strip out the plastic (meaning dont take it apart too much)as they look like tiny wood screws.. The metal parts on mine are rough, rifling is visible but doenst engrave well on the pellet, and the trigger guard will jab your hand on every pump if you dont figure a better way to hold it.
The breech setup, barrel and valve block are all connected, the bolt is “pencil-thin” and the normal mods you cna do to a 13xx gun wont help much here as the format of those is considerably diffent and obstuse from the crosman offering. Oddly, the barrel screws into the breech/valve assembly. THere is no transfer port on the barrel like the 1377 (and other Crosman stuff) has.
You cannot mount an optic to it. The front sight, even though its fiber optic, is basically useless. the hood stops any light from getting to the fiber, and a 6:oo hold is out of the question.
IF your at home insde a Crosman 13xx platform, you’ll have no issues tearing the StrikePoint down and doing BASIC mods. While it is about the same size as the 13xx platform, its clunky-er, and feels it.
If this is Umarex’s idea of a “crosman Killer”, they failed. Im sure the box stores will sell a lot of these (espcailly at a sub 40.oo price point…) but in my opinion its not worth the money.
Welcome to the blog.
B.B.
Dan_House,
Welcome to the blog too. Very good comment and pretty much what we all expected. It is nice to have the insight of someone that has looked one over real good and been inside of it.
Hope to hear more from you in the future. Post to the (current) blog if you do. We go “off topic” all of the time and I believe is one of the reasons the blog is as popular as it is. It is usually all air gun related,… but not always what is the “featured” gun of the day. Lot’s of good people here.
Hope to see ya’.