by B.B. Pelletier
The BSF S70 was the deluxe version of the BSF 55-series of spring-piston air rifles. It’s the grandfather of the Beeman R9.
First, I want to wish all my U.S. readers a Happy Memorial Day. Please take a moment to remember the friends and family members who gave their lives for our sake.
Today’s report will have some of you talking and thinking for weeks! Kevin will find that he is in a love-hate relationship with my BSF S70 rifle, and Herb will postulate three alternative universes from the data I’ve collected. Rikib will attempt to occupy one of them!
In other words, folks, today is not your ordinary velocity test day.
You will recall that I went into a lot of detail in Part 1, explaining that this could either be a powerful 800+ f.p.s. breakbarrel from the olden days, when 800 f.p.s. was the magnum threshold, or it could be a weak 7.5-joule German version of the same gun. Since this one has the Freimark that indicates the German power level, I thought it was probably the latter. Read Part 1 to find out what that means.
The first pellet I’ll send through the chronograph is going to tell us which it is. For that, I selected the JSB Exact RS, a 7.3-grain lightweight dome that seemed to me to be perfectly suited to this rifle. Here, now, is the first shot string:
Well, we can stop right there, can’t we? I mean that shot tells all, doesn’t it? However, in the interest of science and our morbid curiosity, I continued:
Well, that was probably a diesel, right? You have to expect them with the leather seals in this rifle:
I shot 14 rounds simply because I was fascinated by what the gun was doing. I just couldn’t stop.
The average velocity was 616 f.p.s., which, as you can see, was only close to one actual recorded velocity. It’s pretty obvious that what we’re seeing is a bimodal distribution.
Thank goodness I’m old
If I were a new airgunner I would not know what to make of this shot string. But years of playing with vintage springers has taught me that the ones with leather piston seals perform differently than those with modern synthetic seals. At this point, I oiled the piston seal with several drops of synthetic-based RWS Chamber Lube, administered through the air transfer port. I did not allow the seal to absorb the oil as I was on a tight schedule, so I expected the two loud detonations that came with the next two shots.
The old favorite RWS Hobby is the standard candle for velocity testing in spring airguns:
The average for this string was 866 f.p.s., and that’s a lot closer to the real average than the average of the first string. If you throw out the high and low shots, you get a 12-shot average of 868 f.p.s., so it’s pretty close. By the way, that gives a muzzle energy of 11.71 foot-pounds. Interesting.
What’s going on? The rifle is now behaving like a U.S.-powered magnum. Let’s try another pellet.
H&N Match Rifle
The H&N Match Rifle pellet is a heavyweight wadcutter. It weighs 8.2 grains. Let’s see what the shot string looks like:
The average for this string was 803 f.p.s., and this was the tightest string fired in the entire test. The total velocity spread is 30 f.p.s., which is what I’m used to seeing from a vintage springer in good condition. It works out to a muzzle energy of 11.74 foot-pounds.
What’s happening? Before I tell you what I think, I ran a short second string of the JSB RS domes. They went like this:
The average for that string was 687 f.p.s., which as you can see isn’t close to any actual velocity recorded. What’s happening?
For starters, this rifle DEFINITELY does not like JSB Exact RS pellets. It could not be any clearer than what you see here. Both before and after oiling the piston seal, we get a bimodal velocity distribution. And, only with a chronograph would you even suspect what was happening, because all the shots felt similar.
With the other two pellets, the rifle is near the 12-foot-pound region where magnum air rifles were in the late 1970s. This is exactly what I would expect a BSF S70 from the old Air Rifle Headquarters to do right out of the box.
Trigger-pull and cocking effort
The trigger is single-stage, and the pull is very long. It’s possible to adjust, as I showed back in Part 1, but as it is set now it breaks at 3 lbs., 14 ozs. As you pull through the long arc, the trigger hesitates at the end of the pull, telling you the rifle is ready to fire. It’s not a bad feeling at all, and I know that BSF triggers wear in with use.
It takes 34 lbs. of effort to cock this rifle. That’s in the same neighborhood as the Beeman R1, a spring-piston breakbarrel we all know to be far more powerful, but the BSF S70 is from a generation before the R1. True, they were both in production at the same time for a while, but the S70 is old-school and the R1 was the future back then.
Without question, my rifle is a full-power S70, which was a 12 foot-pound airgun in its day. I was completely mistaken when I guessed it would be a European-powered rifle. Kevin will both love and hate it because it represents the best of what Europe was making back in its day, and yet the power is the most upgraded version you could buy. I am glad that it’s more powerful, because a 34-lb. cocking effort ought to be rewarded with something!
The thing for you newer airgunners to carry away from this test is that air rifles and air pistols with leather seals behave differently than those with synthetic seals. Lubrication is so important for them.
A second lesson is that sometimes you encounter an anomaly like the performance of the JSB RS pellet. You have to find the ammunition your airgun likes, which is why discount-store pellets are no good unless you’ve also tested the finest premium pellets and actually proven that the ones from Wal-Mart are best in your airgun. Don’t shoot with your wallet. It just wastes money.
How to upload an avatar for this blog
This section is from Edith. We now allow avatars on the Pyramyd Air blog. If you have a favorite image or graphic you’d like to use, follow the directions below. In order to use the avatar, you must have an account on this blog. If you’re listed as anonymous or type in your name every time so you don’t have to register, then an avatar association can’t be made for you.
If you don’t have an account on this blog and want to use an avatar, create your account on this blog before creating your avatar.
Once you have your Pyramyd Air blog account, go to Gravatar.com.
Click on the “Sign up” link in the blue bar at the top of the page. Follow the prompts and wait for the confirmation email (it could take a few minutes to receive).
To create your account, your email address must match the email address you used for your Pyramyd Air blog account. Your Gravatar name and password can be different than it is for this blog. In fact, my name (Edith Gaylord) was already taken by someone else on Gravatar, so I had to choose a different name.
After you’re done uploading your image, click through to the end and select a rating for your avatar. Only G-rated avatars are allowed on this blog.
When you’re done following all the prompts on Gravatar, sign in to your Pyramyd Air blog account if you’re not signed in already, and your avatar should start showing up for all comments from then on and should fill in the avatars for all blog comments made previously if they were made when you were signed in with that account.
At this time, we don’t have anything set up for me to preview avatars before they’re uploaded to our site. While I don’t expect anything bad from the regulars, we have had spammers.
If you find an offensive or questionable avatar, please let me know. Pyramyd Air’s tech support is looking into ways that I can preview avatars and either allow or not allow them.
I’ve also asked tech support if they can find a way to include the avatars in the comments RSS feed as well as the comments that are emailed to me.
You may email me if the above directions don’t work for you.
57 thoughts on “BSF S70: Part 2”
This is a very informative blog. Usually statistics make my eyes glaze over, and hence I don’t normally read the velocity tests of rifles (part 2) with the same zeal I would have for say the accuracy test (part 3). This blog really opened my eyes as to how important a chrony can be.
I need to buy a chrony and an updated pair of eyeglasses before I buy any more airguns.
Thanks for the blog.
How about a PG-13 rated avatar? I like things spicy!
Just kidding. My avatar will always be a tabby cat being chased by a pair of evil Domos. That is my life in a nutshell.
It seems to be that my life knows French. There’s a French proverb – “To get the first kiss out of a girl is as difficult as to get first cucumber from a can, the rest flow free”. Today I was contacted by yet another potential manufacturer, so I’m waiting for their price, and another one called me to tell they’re checking my blueprints.
It also seems that “quitters never win” and “one more strike” strategy in this case works. It all feels like pushing a heavy car – it consumes your energy and turns it into waste heat before it gets its own inertia and then all you have to do is to add little by little to keep it running.
Lately I was contemplating on that Gunzilla and it seems to me that it is the future. Electronically-controlled vale can be adjusted, so one can swap barrels and tune it almost for any task. Target/plink in .177 or .20 or .22? No problem. Screw in a new barrel, reprogram valve control and zero your scope. Hunting with .25, .308, .357 or .410 shot? No problem. Screw in… and so on. One ePCP for all applications, the task is to get enough money for barrels.
Making it a chassis system can add another degree to its versatility – classic hunting rifle stock or FT, BR sport stock. A good thing to own, as far as I feel.
However I’m not sure if Crosman would like to sell 1 rifle and 1 set of barrels instead of 3-4 task-oriented rifles.
And yet another perversion. I started to think on e-springer. Just imagine – opposing pistons system, with pistons driven like a core in electric motor. This also almost eliminates the problem of piston’s springback, there’s no hand cocking and complete power adjustability. I wonder what the weight’s going to be and power consumption…
A chassis system with a multiple barrel kit… I LIKE IT!!
Put the barrels inside a frame like the AirForce Talon so your sure no damage is done to the barrels and the rifle is always close to the same dimensions and weight. Why not ask the big names in customising what they would like? Or maybe ad the Rogue to the Crosman custom shop… you pick the stock, the barrel(s), color etc… and build the rifle of your dream! From .177 to .50 caliber and everything in between.
Did I tell you guys how much this rifles winds me up?
I was kinda surprised to be the only “non-staff” person to have an avatar… I simply clicked on Edith, Tom and David pics, looked at the address bar and saw they were all coming from gravatar.com, bingo. Set up the account searched for a pic that would fit nicely and it was a done deal.
An e-springer. Now that is amazing! You are too creative.
That’s exactly what Dad said when he saw my first studies on “duscombe” 🙂
Well, here’s good news – I found cheaper maker, able to keep all the tolerances and dimensions. I plan final talks for tomorrow and then we’ll see.
that is wonderful news! I’ll keep my fingers crossed for you. Perhaps by this time next year, I’ll be able to purchase a “Duskcombe” and a Rogue.
By the way, today I glass bedded the Crosman Nitro. Tomorrow will be the real test – can I lift the action out of the stock or do I have to chisel the stock off the action and call Crosman for a new stock.
I hope everything will go ok with your Nitro. If you were thorough and made all step-by-step right – it will. I wonder how you’ll feel when you’ll see how your accuracy jumped.
What upgrades have you got on your hands so far? Recrowning and bedding, right? I would also suggest re-balancing your rifle, adding some pounds of weight and doing some voodoo about the main spring to tweak in to optimal performance. I hope your trigger broke in and now it works smooth. So I think that’s an end to what a mortal can do to this rifle 🙂 And I think it’s more than enough to make shooting it precise and pleasant.
Next steps are for boddhisattvas of tuning 🙂 – making your own stock, built for your anatomy. So if you ruined this stock – consider it to be a sign that you are ready to ascend to another step to airgunner’s nirvana 🙂
As for me I dream more and more of stylish walnut stock for my project. Well, as I’m not quite a master, so I’m sort of afraid to ruin precious wood. Maybe me and my ambition will set on beech 😉
the first thing I did was replace the trigger with a trigger from “Charlie da Tuna” as the original was poor. There is still creep in the trigger but it does release suddenly so one gets used to it. The second thing was the recrown and that reduced my group sizes by half. Now, with your encouragement, I have attempted to glass bed the action in the stock. All the stock screws can be turned and I can cock the rifle but haven’t tried to lift it out of the action. That won’t happen till tomorrow evening about this time.
I’m not into springers… yet.. but I found this article interesting. Is there a similar phenomenon for gas-ram guns?
That is why I prefer to call them gas spring guns, instead of gas ram guns. Because they are powered by gas springs. That is what industry calls them.
A gas ram refers to a specific application of a gas spring, just as a gas strut refers to a gas spring used in a car suspension.
So gas springs are, in fact, spring guns. So yes, they work in the same way.
However, and this is the big one, no gas spring gun I am aware of uses leather piston seals. So you will never see the same phenomenon in a gun with a gas spring, because it will also have a synthetic piston seal.
Seals made of leather vs synthetic… I suppose that makes sense. Thanks BB.
Oh.. and testing my avatar..
Just testing mine out
Total role reversal in my family.When it comes to technology my dad(on Banjo)is the whizz kid.
If it wasn’t for Edith’s avatar walk through,I would have been stuffed..Thanks Edith 🙂
How well do you think Synthetic seals will hold up in comparison to leather or rubber for longevity?
Apart from normal wear,will synthetic seals degrade over time by themselves?
Happy Memorial Day.
Synthetic seals last about as long as leather if they are made of the right material. There are many Hakim seals made in 1954 still in service today, and they are synthetic.
However, if a person abuses the gun by too-frequent oiling, the synthetic seal can be lost in a couple of years. It’s funny how leather seals are just the opposite. They need frequent oiling.
I’m a happy camper today.
Spent a beautiful, sunny day at the range on Saturday. Took the boys and a full crop of airguns to shoots.
Main purpose in going was to try setting up the new Hawke Airmax I received a week or so ago.
My previous scope, a no name Chinese 4x (that I’ve seen branded as an RWS, as a crossbow scope, and more) seemed to be pretty lame (it had a $40 price point at my local expensive gun shop).
Zero’d the Hawke and let fly 10 shots at 30m. Well, all 10 could be covered by a quarter. (shooting seated but with no rest of any sort). My previous best group with the cheapie was about 1.5-2″.
I had actually come to the conclusion that either I was a pathetic shot with a springer, or my Slavia wasn’t up to snuff.
But now I feel confident that with a bit more practice I can start getting those 10 shot 1 hole groups that all those fellows on the ‘yellow’ claim is commonplace 😉
As well we took out Umarex pistols out. I have a Colt, my oldest son inherited the Walther CPS and my youngest (7) his PPK. Again, great fun, though at 15 yards the PPK is pretty pathetic…I guess you could say it has ‘minute of person’ accuracy at that range…though from what I gather at 15 yds a real PPK likely wouldn’t do much better.
Afterword we built a fire (the range we are members of has a full campground, pond stocked with trout and a full archery range…best $150/yr I spend), and had our fill of hot dogs and hamburgers.
Then we headed over to the big bore range where a pair of our local police dept snipers were doing some shooting. A MacMillan .338 at 800 yds. Now I know that the skill level of a 500fps Slavia at 50 yds is probably about the same…but man, their is definitely something mighty appealing about that low, godawful BANG that they produce.
Sent shivers up my spine.
Were you testing this rifle last Saturday? We were traveling through space where there is a concentration of micro-black holes. The gravity from one of those might have been going in and out of the target line….
I’d guess that for the JSB-RS pellets that didn’t detonate, that the pellet moves early, thus limiting the piston chamber pressure. The ones that do detonate stay put in the barrel longer building up more pressure in the piston chamber and thus a detonation. It is easy to speculate that such a magic threshold might exist, but to actually find a pellet that exhibits the problem seems mind-blowing. There has to be such a thin margin for this to happen.
It is also another fascinating tidbit showing that the Cardew’s were right. A significant amount of the energy generated by a spring piston gun is due to that dirty word combustion. Doesn’t that make spring-pistons a f7rearm, I mean furearm? Sorry let me try again – forearm. Nope just can’t bring myself to use that dirty word in this family blog.
More seriously, is there a fix for the JSB-RS? Oil with 3-4 drops and let the piston seal soak for a few days, then try again? Or do you think that the JSB-RS pellets are just doomed at the magic threshold where sometimes they detonate and sometimes they won’t detonate?
I don’t say it enough, but I have certainly enjoy reading your blog. I learn new things all the time.
I have a gut feeling that the JSB RS pellets will never work in this rifle. One thing I could try is flaring the skirts to hold them tighter in the breech.
There were no detonations with the RS pellets. Only the two I mentioned with the Hobbys after oiling. Every shot was dieseling, though. You could smell it.
I have put more oil on the piston seal so it can soak in over the next week or so. We’ll see what that does.
Thanks for being such a good sport!
Forgot the most important thing. 🙁
Thanks for your service. Happy Memorial day!
I can’t believe that HD can be called a “g” rated Avatar. Edith must have given you a special pass 🙂
I don’t know what you mean.
I know. It took a lot of willpower to click the G on my HD instead of the XXX. She was mean and sexy but she purred like a kitty. Her new sister is the same except not quite as mean looking. I mean, how evil can Merlot look? I know I will deeply regret trading the old girl in. I already feel the pangs of guilt.
I guess I have to log in every time to get an avatar. I’m not used to that.
I just log in and checkmark the box that says “remember me” and it doesn’t log me out for a really long period of time…days & days. Even when I quit my browser & shut off my computer, I can come back the next day & I’m still signed in.
avatar test 2
avatar test 3
Chuck,I would gladly “test” your avatar! Nice….
You’re too late on this one. She’s gone to the old Harley rest home. As soon as I’m over my grief and get a pic of the new girl, Ms. Merlot, I’ll make her my avatar. Meanwhile, I think she’s getting a little jealous.
to all the tank drivers, pilots, mechanics, foot soldiers and boat or ship residents, let me say thank you for all you’ve done for our country, my family and myself. This day is for you.
I have no avatar.I used to have no idea what an avatar was.While reading the test,I was going to suggest that your seal is low on finishing nails.I guess oiling is more likely.I ‘m anxious to see the accuracy report….but that is nothing new.The kissing cousin to this rifle,the Marksman 70,reignited
my fascination with airguns.That airgun,a gift from a dear friend……has shaped my life and brought me friends from all across the U.S.Thank You to all our past and present military!!
You said something how its not upgradeable? I was wondering is it possible to upgrade my haenel 310? I am hoping to get a little more power out of it.
Have you put oil on the seal and let it set? That should bring the velocity up some.We’re talking about the 4.4mm clip fed roundball shooter….right?
What BBs do you currently use in your 310 and what velocity do they give you?
i use the ones from jg I’m not sure what company and around 400, I didn’t use a chronograph I just judged by the lead balls and how deformed they are don’t know what that methods called though.
Well, how can you improve on what you don’t know for certain right now?
What I’m saying is, since you don’t know the current velocity, how would you know if it increased?
The 310 is not really adaptable to a power increase anyway. Because it’s a short-range target gun and because it shoots a round ball, it’s going about as fast as it needs to to do the job it was designed to do.
If you want to experiment with differing power levels and tunes I recommend that you get a Beeman R1, which is ideally adapted to a great many tunes and power levels. But before you do that, get a chronograph, because otherwise you’re always just guessing. Just look at what happened to me on this very test gun (the BSF S70 reported above). I never would have known that was happening if I didn’t have a chronograph.
Ditto on leaving the 310 alone. It’s a bit of a rare piece, and hopping up a gun always results in the potential of parts breakage. Besides, compared to a lot of relatively inexpensive pellet rifles, it just isn’t that accurate (at least mine isn’t). If it really is giving you 400fps and you increase the power a LOT – say, by 50%, you’re only at about 490 fps. Is that really going to buy you anything?
Hmmm, I guess your right, any ideas were I can find a chronograph for cheap I don’t want to buy used though.
Vince, You can get one online for 65 dollars so its not that rare and well 50% of 400 would be 200, so it’d be shooting 600 which is actually where i want it to be shooting at, though its very very unlikely
Wprejs, that is not correct. Muzzle energy is kinetic energy, which is proportional to the velocity squared. A 50% increase in velocity actually represents a new power level of 225% – or a 125% increase. So going to 600fps means you’re more than doubling the energy, and that’s a LOT of additional stress to be putting on the internals.
Didn’t say they were pricey, just that they’re not real common…
Ah, understood my bad Vince
Most of the veteran airgunners know how invaluable a chronograph is to determine fill point, power curve, etc. but this article is a sterling example of how important a chronograph is with a springer.
B.B. was wrong when he said, “Thank goodness I’m old”. It would have been more accurate to say, “Thank goodness I’m Experienced”.
The extreme spread, like the one in the first string with the jsb rs pellets, is surprising even for a dry leather seal. My first reaction would be (like B.B.) oil it with silicone oil and hope for the best. My quick second reaction would be “is the spring broke or canted”.
Quick, subsequent shot groups, proved my initial reactions wrong. It’s amazing to me that prior to oiling you can get a es of 350fps and then quickly get and es of 30 with H & N match. I’m amazed. There’s so much to glean from this. Pellet weight, skirt size, thickness of skirt? head size? This is fascinating. From this disparity there’s something to be learned beyond just oiling the leather seal since the extreme spread tightened so dramatically. I’ve oiled leather seals that have been sitting for 20 years and my velocity increased 130-160fps but…..stupid me, I only used one pellet in my testing.!!!
This is a very interesting airgun for me on many fronts. First, I’ve never owned one and never seen one in person. Second, as a trigger nut, I’ve always been interested in the older BSF triggers since everyone sings their praises about being simple yet over time wearing in to a great trigger (ultimately needing to be adjusted to be safe, GREAT!), thirdly the heritage of the gun having spawned so many current classics isn’t lost on me and lastly this is a gun that is in the Four Horseman class of power.
The option of the avatars are terrific.
The reason you won’t see an avatar for me is that I think they indicate exclusivity. I don’t want to discourage new visitors because they think they’re trespassing in a clique.
The attraction to this site for me was initially, and subsequently, that everyone was welcome no matter if you’re a first poster, anonymous, or if in the future, you decided to “unmask” yourself and add a name to your post that made you one of the 70%. AVATAR’s indicate an exclusive internet club in my neophyte experience.
Typically, when avatar’s are implemented the site digresses to those few good ‘ole boys. It becomes a dialog between 5 or 6 people. Boring and predictable.
Huh? I thought avatar in the sense Edith was using it meant just the little picture thumbnail to represent you on this blog, like Slinging Lead’s pussycat or Chuck’s big purring cat. Of course, if you put a real picture of yourself up there (like Tom) it’ll send all participants fleeing– neophytes and veterans alike! 😉
LOL! How true. I picture of me would have everyone running for the hills!
Edith and Tom need an avatar. “A warm welcome”. The rest of us are cogs in a wheel and as such are extraneous from my perspective.
For me it’s a little more info on the person I’m talking with and it makes finding peoples post easier.
For anyone coming here just seeing the massive amount of post for a given blog and the way we talk to each other shows we’re all regulars and posting a question where a bunch of regular airgun nuts hang out would give me the best odds of getting a legitimate answer from these same airgun addicted people.
I say go ahead and put up a pic or your favorite airgun, your place in the mountains, the first car you had when you were younger and are hunting for now or the logo of your favorite airgun manufacturer or even you.
I have different pictures for different places, on facebook it’s a pic of me smoking a cigar but it’s too big to show here, on gmail it’s Nacho Libre but it would look like a tiny red and blue gnome here.
I also think this zombie hunter one is pretty appropriate for this blog.
Yes, you are like a cog on a wheel. And as with even the best machinery, all the cogs are there for a reason, and this blog would not run nearly as well with one of the cogs missing.
I hope I didn’t throw a monkey wrench into your metaphor! 😉
I have no idea how a thumbnail image will make a person feel like this is a clique. In fact, avatars are so common on blogs & chat forums, that we may be the next-to-last place that doesn’t have them (the yellow IS the last 🙂 )
I ignore avatars when going on other sites. What they DO provide is a way for the commenter to feel like an individual instead of just one of the masses. I don’t believe anyone who doesn’t have an avatar will feel like he can’t participate.
Wait a minute! The yellow forum has avatars & has had them for a long time. Sigh…I guess this IS the last place on earth for avatars. Well, at least we’ve now caught up.
As I said, I think the option of avatars is terrific. Just not for me. I’m sure you’ll agree that I’m more appealing if I’m faceless LOL!
As a result of articles I’ve read on this great blog, I just purchased a used FWB 300S.
It is wonderful rifle and I’m sure it has a lot to teach me.
I waited until I found one that is in really good shape. It has a flawless stock and the
bluing is certainly 95%. My question is what do I have to do to make sure it stays in
such good condition. I especially want to make sure to keep oxidation at bay.
Thanks for the great blog, I learn something from it every day,
A used FWB 300S with bluing at 95% is a rare find.
Anything that breaks the barrier between elements and bluing will promote rust quickly, i.e., air, humidity, sweat, especially blood, etc. Most will extol the virtues of this oil or that topic to apply to your metal to slow the rust (bluing is always rusting, you can only slow the process). The reality is that you should apply a wax to your metal (blued metal) first, then apply a topical. A good topical is ballistol.
Ever hear one of the many stories of…”I oiled my gun but it still rusted when I went and looked at it several years later…”??? The reason is that oil is lighter than water/moisture. In other words, a good oil is not a barrier against watermoisture (which is bluing’s #1 enemy). Only a good wax first along with a sheath/protectant OVER the wax is prudent. Wax then oil.
Welcome to the blog! We hope to hear from you from now on.
Congratulations on your spectacular find. That 300S will no doubt captivate your interests for many years to come.
Now, on the rust prevention question, I have never found anything better than Ballistol. It’s used by many armies around the world for automatic weapons. I just cleaned and de-rusted about 35 older firearms, some of which were pretty far gone. Ballistol actually wipes the surface rust off with a cotton cloth. I use it on all my airguns and you don’t have to worry about what you put it on. It won’t attack a painted or anodized surface.
I used it on the wood of my old Ballard rifle and everybody on this blog was impressed. It really does wonders on wood that isn’t finished with a polymer finish. If it can get to the wood, it will make it shine.
I buy it by the pint from Midway and put it into spray bottles Edith buys at the grocery store.
try an avatar
Jointly say hello I need help with a Bavaria b55 (kal 4,5). I have one and I’m restoring it but I don’t have the trigger unit. Can you recommend some replacement for this?
Antofagasta – Chile
Try this man.
He often has parts that are difficult to get.
Other than that I suggest you look at some of the UK and European chat forums. They often have entire parts guns for sale.