by B.B. Pelletier
Announcement: Tyrone Nerdin’ Daye is this week’s winner of Pyramyd Air’s Big Shot of the Week on their facebook page. He’ll receive a $50 Pyramyd Air gift card. Congratulations!
Tyrone Nerdin’ Day says this about his winning photo: Me and my IZH-DROZD MP-661k Blackbird with Wild Mod Chip, Walther PS 22 red dot sight, quad rails and a UTG Tactical Op bipod. Black SWAT vest with the Walther CP99 Compact, police belt with Winchester Model 11.
Quackenbush .308 big bore is an attractive air rifle.
It’s been a long time since Part 2 because I was searching for a better bullet for this rifle. Oh, the groups shown in Part 2 aren’t that bad; but when you see what I have to show today, you’ll be glad I stuck with it.
Most of my experience has been with Quackenbush’s larger calibers. My Quackenbush .458 Long Action rifle is so accurate that I was pretty sure I could get better performance out of this .308.
The .308 is the big bore gun everyone talks about these days. Guys are taking deer and goats with them out to incredible distances. At the 2012 LASSO big bore shoot, they were hitting half-sized sheep silhouettes out to 300 yards and making it look easy. But the bullets I had didn’t seem to want to perform like what I saw from other guns. So, I kept searching and trying different bullets.
Blog reader Robert from Arcade even sent me a batch of 150-grain Loverin-style lead bullets he cast himself. They were big and heavy, and my rifle wasn’t doing that well with lighter lead bullets, so I didn’t have a lot of hope for these. But I took them along to the range yesterday, where I tried them along with a remarkable new bullet that I picked up at the Arkansas airgun show this year.
Mr. Hollowpoint saves the day!
At that show, I asked Robert Vogel, who’s Mr. Hollowpoint, for a good bullet for my rifle. He recommended a new hollowpoint he’s casting that has had some good reports. At 68 grains, it’s a featherweight compared to the 115 to 130-grain bullets I’ve been shooting, and I thought maybe the additional velocity I’d get might make the difference. So, I bought a bag to try.
I got out to the range on Wednesday, and the day was very close to perfect. At 88 deg. F, it was a bit warm, but the wind was very low and never did pick up.
The 150-grain Loverin bullet on the left and the 68-grain hollowpoint at the center and right were both tried. Notice the uneven base on the hollowpoint. It seemed to make no difference on the target. That large hollow point lives up to its name!
My carbon fiber tank would soon need a refill, so I was only able to fill the rifle to 3,000 psi, and I held the number of shots per group to 5 instead of 10. The first shot was low and about three inches to the right of the bull, so I cranked up the elevation and put in some left clicks and then shot a 10. It was nothing but luck that the one adjustment put the bullet in the right spot.
It doesn’t get much better than that, so I refilled the rifle and shot again. I was filling after each shot, so every shot had the benefit of a 3,000 psi fill behind it. With the Quackenbush Long Action Outlaw, and to a large extent with all other big bore air rifles I’ve tested, the first and second shots group in different areas — but they do group tight. The trick is to use some extra elevation for the second shot so it goes to the same place as the first. But since I didn’t know exactly how much elevation to use with this new bullet, I refilled after each shot instead.
It was a slow, methodical process of settling into the rest, sighting, squeezing off the shot, then returning to the tailgate of my truck to top off the reservoir for the next shot. My shooting buddy, who witnessed all this, was impressed by how much recoil this .308 has. Of course, it recoils with or without the bullet, because the air that’s exhausting is giving the rifle a rocket push.
By the time the fifth shot had been fired, I could see the results through the scope. The group was tight and well-centered, and the last three shots were in the x-ring, which is in the center of the 10. They can be covered by a dime. So, this 68-grain hollowpoint from Mr. Hollowpoint is the bullet my .308 likes!
Five shots went into this 0.975-inch group at 50 yards. The 68-grain bullets from Mr. Hollowpoint are a real winner in my Quackenbush .308. The center three bullet holes can just be covered by the dime.
The base of the bullet has an uneven ridge extending past the base. It’s the result of sizing the bullet, because Robert Vogel sizes each and every one to .308. Normally, I would worry about anything on the base that isn’t perfectly uniform; but after looking at the target, I can see that this has little affect on how this particular bullet flies.
This bullet loads very easily in my rifle. There seems to be no resistance when the bolt is closed. They’re cast from pure lead, which leaves them soft and prone to deformation. Performance on game is enhanced through the combination of the soft lead and the hollowpoint design. A soft lead bullet holds together better than one that’s hardened with antimony, so these bullets still penetrate deeply in game. Elmer Keith wrote extensively about the performance of soft lead bullets on game with handguns, and the velocity of these big bore rifles is pretty close to what he obtained.
I wouldn’t use such a light hollowpoint on a whitetail deer-sized animal, but it ought to turn a coyote or a bobcat inside-out! And the rifle is now zeroed at 50 yards — huzzah!
From light to heavy
Next up was the Loverin-style 150-grainer from Robert of Arcade. Since the rifle was only so-so with the lighter bullets I’d tried, I didn’t think it would stabilize this long lead slug, but it wasn’t much trouble to try. Robert also casts these from lead as pure as he can get; so, like Mr. Hollowpoint bullets, they’re just right for airguns.
A Loverin bullet has many grease grooves along a relatively long body. It was greatly in favor in the early 20th century. When jacketed bullets came along, they sent the best lead bullet designs into relative obscurity. Only those who cast their own bullets are aware of the differences in designs like the Loverin, and this style bullet is no longer popular with mold-makers today. If I want to get a Loverin mold, I either have to buy a custom mold or I have to watch the auction sites for a vintage mold to come up for sale. This one is Lyman mold 311466.
In contrast to the easy loading of the 68-grain hollowpoint, these bullets were hard to load. They were not sized and measure up to 0.311 inches in diameter. I normally shoot unsized lead bullets in my big bores whenever I can to ensure the best sealing of the bore — a little resistance at loading is normal.
The bullets landed lower on the target, as expected, and they were about a half-inch to the right; but after 5 shots, I was impressed by the group they made.
By this point, the carbon fiber tank was definitely running out of air. On the final two shots, it filled the rifle to only 2,950 psi. Since the resulting group seems elongated up and down, I will attribute some of that to the uneven fill. I think that if I shot this bullet at a higher-pressure fill, the performance might improve.
Notice, also, that the bullet holes seem elongated. There was some tipping going on, and this bullet is probably at the ragged edge of stability at this velocity — whatever that is. A higher-pressure fill will probably boost velocity enough to correct this at 50 yards.
Five shots went into this 2.008-inch group at 50 yards. The Loverin-design bullet did remarkably well, considering its 150-grain weight. The last two fills were only 2,950 psi. I wonder what a higher, more uniform fill might do?
This longer, heavier bullet would be ideal for deer. While the velocity is probably down at the 700 f.p.s. mark, these bullets still shoot all the way through deer unless they’re stopped by heavy bone. I would restrict my shots to very close range with this bullet, but I think it might do the trick out to 80 yards, or so.
Now that I have one good bullet for sure and the possibility of another, it’s time to test both with higher fill levels. I also want to chronograph these bullets so we can see what sort of performance they give.
I also want to cast some of my 130-grain spitzers in pure lead and shoot them unsized and unlubricated. That might be the secret to success in this rifle.
We’re not quite done with the Quackenbush .308. My thanks to both Mr. Hollowpoint and to Robert from Arcade for providing me with these two bullets to test.
57 thoughts on “Quackenbush .308: Part 3”
What pair of molds will you use to cast your bullets? Lee?
WOOT first comment!lol
While Lee molds cast acceptable bullets, I prefer molds made of cast iron. They are more durable and often the bullets they cast are rounder.
Yes. They need to be round since you are not sizing the bullets. Be careful with cast iron molds. They are brittle. All cast metal is brittle.
I wonder looking at the groups with the excellent sized bullets from Mr. Vogel, if sizing the loverin style bullets to .309 dia , and maybe even trying a gas check , but not lubing with alox , like used for powder burners , maybe could get rid of the tippy canoe effect with those? Also I’d be tempt
ed to cut one or two bands off the loverin style bullet and make it a flat base, like Mr. Vogels.
I don’t have a PCP yet, but what interests me most with them , especially the ones in .25 and .30 cal is that they most closely mimic what I’ve been doing for years with my .25-20 and 32-20 cal rifles. For years I used rifles like that for all my small game hunting, and I even quit using ANY rimfires for a period of years, except when required by law here. Today only the old timers, enthusists, and BP shooters know how effective a 60 to 85 gr. .25 or 80 to 115 grain .30 cal bullet is for hunting and accuracy . That 68 gr HP would be perfect in my .32-20 Remington mod 25 pump, if it is .311 dia before sizing. If you need some more bullets of loverin style, give me a shout. I have moulds in .22, .25, 7mm, and 8mm in that style. Your more than welcome.
Am I spelling the name wrong? Is it really Loverin?
After seeing this performance you have made me a Loverin bullet believer! I will search for a 311466 mold for myself, to go with a couple .30s I shoot. There is a 311467 on GunBroker (170 grain) but I think I will hold out for the lighter bullet.
Yes, the BulletMan bullet is quite remarkable. I need to try that one some more.
Yes the name is spelled Loverin , as in H.Guy Loverin who was the designer of those bullets. Other obsolete light wt bullet moulds to look for on the used market that would maybe work for your rifle are: Lyman # 308244 a 89 gr RN bullet originally designed for the .30 luger, Lyman #308245 87 grsRN which was originally designed for the USMC for use in the Krag rifle(IMO the VERY best cartridge for cast .30 cal bullet shooting), the Lyman # 308252 77gr RN designed for the .32 auto pistols, and the Lyman # 311359 GC spitzer for the .30 carbine. There was also a special order bullet mould that Lyman made called the # 30812 which was made in wts that ranged from 80-201 grs, which is cross between a Hudson and Loverin style bullet design , with a flat base. Mt Vogles bullet reminds me of the Lyman 31133 HP in 100 grs. It was for the .32-20 but the point is flatter. I have a solid pt version of that one.
You are a veritable fountain of information about bullet molds. I will look into those lighter bullets.
Did you shoot these groups with that osprey scope still mounted? Impressive 50 yard groups.
Thanks for your contribution. You sure help keep things interesting.
Loverin: You beat me to it . As you probably have guessed by now, I’m key board challenged.I type like a blind chicken looking for feed. But I do know a little bit about bullets, I guess enough to be dangerous, Take care ,Robert.
The rifle now has a Centerpoint 3-9X40 scope that works very well. It have mil dots, if I want to use elevation for the second shot.
I bought a second Quackenbush .308 at LASSO, just as an investment. It has a special 1:10″ twist barrel, and I think I will work it into the next test. It would be nice if the faster twist could stabilize the Loverin bullet.
Impressive pic of the week, but Vladimir says that in combat it is the big Rambo types who get shot….
I can see what soft lead does for the hunting performance of bullets, but what does the hollowpoint do? My guess is either increased accuracy which is related to impact performance in getting the bullet on target but not really the same thing. Otherwise, don’t hollowpoint bullets explode? I would think that is a liability. And whether the shattering effect would happen with soft lead is another question.
Hollowpoints aren’t supposed to explode. They are supposed to mushroom, so the diameter of the wound channel is increased in size. It’s how small-caliber bullets perform like they are larger on game.
As soft as this bullet is, and at the probably velocity that I will guess is just over 1,000 f.p.s., this bullet should open up to .60 caliber in medium-sized game like coyotes. The act of expanding also causes the hollowpoint to shed a lot of its energy, thereby transferring it to the game and causing greater shock than if it just slipped through.
Sounds good to me. But wasn’t there some kind of restriction on using hollowpoints for hunting? I remember reading about such bullets creating ghastly superficial wounds on game without penetrating at all. I think the bullet type was called H or M Mantel, something like that. It was a long time ago when I read this.
The main concern with hollow points is ballistics… That big open mouth doesn’t move through the air as smoothly as a pointed bullet. Even pointed hunting rounds are designed to mushroom on impact (if the round doesn’t mushroom, it just makes a small hole, passes through the target, and is a risk to anything behind the target).
Those plastic-pointed rounds are really hollow-points with a plastic cone stuck into the end — on impact the cone spreads the copper jacket to start mushrooming.
Heck — military rounds are full metal for a reason… They DON’T mushroom and are not as lethal; the target is quite likely to survive a hit by FMJ (and tie up one or two other people trying to transport the wounded to safety).
The ratio for wounding vs killing has gotten more favorable if you’re fighting the US. I count at least six people taken out of combat; check my math:
Joe gets shot; he’s down.
Jim the medic attends
John, Joe’s best friend, drags Joe out of the line of fire.
The chopper comes in for a landing
Jane’s the pilot.
Josh the co-pilot
Jake operates the hoist
Jean’s the on-board medic
And somebody else on the helicopter operates a defensive machine gun.
Oooops. That’s eight Americans tied up, only one of whom has been wounded, and I’m deliberately not counting anybody back at the base. OK, Jean and Jim wouldn’t be there if there aren’t wounded, so maybe you don’t want to count them. But then, maybe Jack helps Jim with the wounded guy.
Use an expanding projectile, and Joe is dead. We leave him until the fire fight is over.
That’s why it’s in every army’s interest to ban expanding bullets in war, and why that particular Geneva agreement stays in force.
War makes for very brutal math.
The Geneva conventions are concerned with the treatment of POWs…
The convention regarding ammunition is one of the Hague conventions.
(note the escape clause — it doesn’t apply if one party of a conflict is not a signatory… Which probably opens up the military to using all sorts of stuff against al Qaeda…)
Ah … back to math basics time:
Please answer so your commented can be posted:
 + 1 = 2
Now to pull in the grammar police “… your commented…”?
I have no idea who wrote “your commented” but have alerted someone at Pyramyd Air to make it right. I don’t know if it’s always been like that or someone recently changed it.
The typo has been fixed.
I think I only noticed it because I was bemused by the simpleness of the equation (come on: 1 + 1 = 2?)
As far as I know, there are no restrictions against the use of hollowpoint bullets for hunting. That is their sole purpose.
There is a restriction against using them against soldiers. Perhaps that is what you ate thinking of?
Interesting rifle, even though I can’t figure out what use I’d have for one!
Looking at those Loverin bullets, I think you could also try cutting it down some (as Robert already suggested) and drilling out the center/base by whatever amount you need to reduce the weight to what you think is optimal for the bullet length length/twist rate/power output. I guess that would make a big diabolo type projectile out of it, but there are worse designs for airguns, aren’t there :)?
Do you know the approximate twist rate for that barrel? I have a hard time seeing how it is going to stabilize anything near even 100 gr. (just a guess, no calculations :)) or so with ~3000PSI with a moderate twist rate! 50-75 gr. would seem like a good place to start — just guesses on my part; I figure you are the one doing the math.
No, I don’t know the twist rate of the rifle I’m testing. I do have another Quackenbush .308 that I know has a 1:10 twist, so this must be slower.
You know how to figure out twist rate, right? Assuming one turn in less than barrel length, put ramrod with fixed jag and snug patch into muzzle, mark it level with crown, then put tape flag on it, pull it out until flag makes one turn and mark rod (again) even with muzzle. Measure distance between marks — that will give you the x in 1:x. Might want to do it 3 or four times and average, but it is pretty close.
Yes, I know how to calculate twist rate with a bore brush, but why bother when I can just ask Dennis?
I will ask.
Sorry, but that begs the question, “why bother to try to develop a good conical load without asking Dennis the twist rate?” 🙂
I dunno. But so far I have had 130, 120 and 115-grainers that were mediocre and a 150 and 68-grainer that wanted to shoot. It may be the alloy or something else, but I have a donut hole in my ballistics data with this rifle.
I can’t wait to try the 150 at higher pressure and also in the bore of the faster twist barrel this coming week.
In case you didn’t notice, Pyramyd Air has temporarily lowered their free ground shipping option from $150 to $99.
The lower price point will last thru the end of May.
Okay folks. This is too rich. There I was filling in at the Biology reference desk the other day and trying to stay awake reading a book on the future of libraries. An elderly and serious looking fellow came up and put me on alert; he didn’t look like the type who just wanted to know where the bathroom was. He asked about the location of a particular call number. I noticed that he had written “Lee-Enfield” next to the number on a card, and checking around, I saw that the call number range had to do with military weapons. So, I asked him if he was researching the Lee-Enfield rifle. He didn’t appear to understand. Then, I told him that I had one, and his eyes bugged out. “But why?” he said. It turns out that he was investigating an old rifle he remembered carrying in his youth for ROTC in the 1930s. He said that he had to carry it down Pennyslvania Avenue on one occasion and that he detested the weight. I held forth on the wonders of the Lee-Enfield rifle as I am very well-equipped to do. Then, resorting to Wikipedia, I established that the rifle he remembered was the 1917 American Enfield. He assured me that his rifle held 5 rounds and not 10. Continuing to sound authoritative I read from the Wikipedia entry about how the 1917 Enfield was a British rifle made under contract by Remington and Winchester at a variety of locations, although not Vermont which seemed to interest him for some reason. He went away agreeably impressed. And rightly so! What library in the country could provide such expert service on the history of firearms (with the exception of military museum libraries)? Maybe I will less furtive about checking into the blog at work.
Speaking of museums, I had the good fortune last night to run into an interesting documentary on YouTube about Russian firearms. From the very beginning or at least since the time of Peter the Great in the 18th century, it would appear that the Russians have been making their presence felt with all sorts of clever ideas. One had to do with a rifled bore and a projectile consisting of a round ball with a kind of raised belt around the equator. This was a Western idea from the 19th century that the Russians modified by making the bullet conical and restricting the belt to the bottom half of the bullet around the base. This was supposed to produce unheard-of accuracy. And also it would seem that the STG44 was not the first assault rifle after all. After WWI, some Russian soldier invented a rifle with a large detachable magazine that fired a 6mm round–assault rifle by definition. But it was too far ahead of its time to get traction. So the message was that Russian arms are unsurpassed. But another message is that their museum directors have no equal. The woman listed as curator of the Tula Military Museum looks like a fashion model. Her Western counterparts cannot match her–it need hardly be said.
The American “Enfield” is the M1917. It is the .30-06 version of the British Pattern 14 which is chambered in 303 British. It has a Mauser type action and was to chamber a high powdered 7 mm round but WWI got in the way so 303 it was. The Brits were build SMLE’s as fast as they could so there was no production room for the Pattern 14. So, off to America it went for production. When America entered the war, we were short of 1903 Springfields (Not ready again!). With a few changes to accommodate the .30-06 round we had the M1917 which will hold 6 rounds in the Mag but was normally loaded with 5 round clips. We used more M1917’s in WWI than Springfields!
Way to go, Matt!
Hello, I have a question regarding the point of impact on my airgun. I replaced the metal spring in it with a crosman gas spring. I also remounted my scope on bkl rings. Ever since then, my gun’s point of impact has been very far to the right, 3-4 inches in some cases. I’ve adjusted my scope as far to the left as possible and most pellets are still shooting to the right. This was not happening before I changed the mounts or the spring. Do you have any idea what might be causing this ?
Doug, you never know what a change might cause. Others here may well know the reason. But, the quick fix is to use an adjustable mount and recenter the scope’s adjustments. Then, do your major windage and elevation adjustments with the mount. You can then fine tune using the scope adjustments.
Did you try going back to the original mounts? I would think the mounts had more to do with it than the spring.
I had to switch to the BKL since the old mounts continued to shift backwards when firing.
Switch the rings so they are backwards and try them again. It sounds like the machining of your ring base on the spring tube isn’t in synch with the ring clamps.
Would that make a difference since I’m using one piece BKL mounts ?
Yes. It may make all the difference. BKL mounts hold by clamping pressure, alone, but that has nothing to do with their orientation.
If you switch them around backwards from the way they are now, the rifle may shoot okay. Or it may shoot too far to the left.
If you had 2-piece mounts, you could swap the front ring and the rear ring and maybe solve your problem. Or you could flip either one of them around backwards. Two-piece mounts are much more flexible than one-piece mounts.
Sorry, I meant to say I am using two piece mounts, not a one piece mount. I tried flipping the front mount backwards and the point of impact did not change. I will try switching the front and the rear mounts and put the mounts in every possible combination.
What kind of rifle and scope do you have?
Also when you say “most of the pellets” are you talking about several different kinds, or most of the shots with just one kind of pellet?
I am using a Benjamin superstreak, with a centerpoint 4-16x40mm scope. When I say “Most of the pellets” I am referring to many different types of pellets. The pellets group consistently, but it is always to the right of the target by 1/2″ to 3″ depending on the type of pellet.
I see a problem or two here…..
Super streak….hard kicker. The ram is not going to fix that. Maybe make it worse.
Second problem….Centerpoint scope. Wally World by any chance ?
There is a good chance your scope let go. I have busted some myself. One bit the dust in only a couple dozen shots on a Titan.
That’s the spirit! Sometimes just one small change will correct everything.
Is it possible that while replacing the spring with a gas ram that the barrel was bent? Not very difficult to bend it back since your inferring such a slight bend in the barrel.
The barrel doesn’t appear to be bent, I can move a cleaning rod through it without troubles.
With all due respsect, for the minor difference in poi you’re talking about a cleaning rod will not detect this small barrel bend.
My inquiry was merely intended to suggest that in your installation, like many, that your barrel may have been bent or misaligned during reinstallation. Common.
Don’t overlook barrel bending as a solution. Barrel bending is done at the factory so it should embraced not repulsed as a potential solution to your issue.
Doug, I’ll take this to the next level, if I owned your gun and had the same poi issues I’d bend the barrel.
I agree, even being bent by the slightest amount could impact the poi, however I will make sure it is not being caused by another factor. I’ll be fiddling around with the mounts, the sequence that they are tightened and the barrel pivot bolts, since these are much easier fixes. Thanks to everyone on the blog for the support.
Could you explain to me how the barrel could be bent during installation after being removed for repair to the rifle ? In this case, the spring was replaced by a nitro piston. There should have been no need to remove the barrel anyway.
I have had a few break barrels apart, and see no possible way the barrel could be bent during any part of the process. Installing all the right parts in the right places is usually not hard. I just can’t feature how enough force could be applied to the barrel to bend it during the process.
If it was shooting fine before the modification, my money would be on a wasted scope.
I think it’s unlikely that the scope is the culprit since Dougs gun is grouping. Since the groups are to the right I think it’s more likely that the rings may be the problem. Swapping the rings could cure this mis-alignment problem as several before me suggested.
Doesn’t take much of a bend in the barrel to create/cure groups 2-3″ to the right/left/up/down. How can this happen with a simple replacement of a spring with a gas ram? It begins when a springer owner googles “homemade spring compressor” to aid in his first teardown. Many, many homemade spring compressors don’t have a bridge and suggest clamping the barrel in a vise. The barrel is clamped with the trigger up for easy access. Doesn’t take much lateral pressure during the process to slightly bend the barrel and the result is that the gun groups either right or left.
I think swapping the rings will cure his problem though.
That’s starting to make sense now. The compressor I made only squeezes the compressoin tube. No pressure on the barrel at all.
In addition to Kevin’s reply and the potential scope suggestions I have a few more suggestions. Please forgive me for stating the easy things to check if you have already done so. But let me state the obvious things and hope you’re not offended. You have removed a lot of parts from your rifle to replace the spring. Lots of points of failure. I would check to make sure the barrel pivot bolts are reinstalled properly and are snug and the barrel is still in line with the stock. One good test would be to use the open sights and see how it shoots that way. I would also check to make sure the barrel locks up properly. The barrel appears to have a muzzle brake so I would check to make sure that didn’t get bumped so that the pellets are hitting it on exit. Make sure the crown didn’t get damaged during the process although it should be protected by the muzzle brake. OK, I’m out of easy answers now.
Listen to Chuck since his pre-emptive advice is spot on. My suggestion of barrel bending, although easy and reversable, is the last step. Follow Chuck’s advice and check these first.
BB. Is their a list or compilation of foot pound energies at certain distances with different pellets? I understand that the speed of the pellet when it’s chronied,is the speed at the distance of the muzzle to the chrony. I’m shooting 14.3 at a stainless steel plate at 70 yards,using my RWS 460 ,the plate is 1/16 inch thick ,and it receives a good dent,scary thing,the plate is so hard I can’t straighten out by hand because after many shots it con caves. I wonder how many foot pound energy it receives at that distance? My 460 is shooting around 860 fps. Thank you Primo
23.5 ft-lb at the muzzle, 9.35ft-lb at 70 yds.
You already have an answer, but to answer your question, yes, there are such tables to give downrange velocities based on initial velocities. I have a book of such tables that was published by FSI years ago, biut the advent of software like Chairgun makes it too easy to compute these numbers.
ChairGun Pro, using the only 14.3gr pellet in my database produces:
Range Time Velocity V. Ret Energy E. Ret Momentum M. Ret
(Yard) (s) (Ft/s) (%) (FtLbf) (%) (Lbf-s) (%)
0 0 860 100 23.49 100 0.055 100
5 0.018 812 94.5 20.981 89.3 0.052 94.5
10 0.037 768 89.3 18.739 79.8 0.049 89.3
15 0.057 725 84.4 16.737 71.3 0.046 84.4
20 0.078 686 79.8 14.949 63.6 0.044 79.8
25 0.101 648 75.4 13.352 56.8 0.041 75.4
30 0.125 612 71.3 11.925 50.8 0.039 71.3
35 0.15 579 67.3 10.651 45.3 0.037 67.3
40 0.176 547 63.6 9.513 40.5 0.035 63.6
45 0.205 517 60.1 8.497 36.2 0.033 60.1
50 0.234 488 56.8 7.589 32.3 0.031 56.8
55 0.266 461 53.7 6.778 28.9 0.029 53.7
60 0.299 436 50.8 6.054 25.8 0.028 50.8
65 0.335 412 48 5.407 23 0.026 48
70 0.372 389 45.3 4.829 20.6 0.025 45.3
75 0.412 368 42.9 4.313 18.4 0.023 42.9
80 0.454 348 40.5 3.853 16.4 0.022 40.5
I’m presuming we are talking a .22 caliber.
I took out the Beeman RS-2 today and swapped barrels on it. Cleaned the .22 barrel with JSB non-embedding paste and Pellgun Oil. I hadn’t used it yet, but noticed something in the barrel. It just turned out to be a little yellow seed. No idea how it got in there.
I cleaned the .177 barrel the same way before putting it away.
Put a little blue threadlocker on the set screw.
Looking forward to getting some .22 pellets and getting it sighted back in.
We are awaiting your report.