by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
This report covers:
- Stock screw torque
- Scope zero
- Crux seated deep
- Crux seated flush
- JSB Exact Jumbo
- 25 yards
- Last pellet
- Where are we?
- What’s next?
Today will be the start of the Sig ASP20 accuracy test, but it will be different than all the other rifles I have tested. I usually mount a scope and begin testing at 10 meters — looking for one or more pellets that are accurate for tests at longer ranges. I’m not doing that today. Before I get into the report, though, I want to address some readers’ concerns.
Someone asked me to check the sensitivity of the rifle to how it’s held. But I already reported on that back in August. I discovered back then that this rifle likes to rest directly on the sandbag and not be held by the artillery hold. I will test the artillery hold in later installments, but it’s pretty much a given that this rifle likes to be rested right on the bag.
Stock screw torque
The reader who calls himself The Other Mark B asked the following.
“Did anyone from SIG mention whether or not stock and trigger guard screws will never come loose? I ask (facetiously) because I called SIG SAUER customer service earlier today to request torque specs for the ASP20 stock and trigger guard screws. They refused to provide the data as it is considered “proprietary”. When I asked what I was supposed to do when the screws loosened up, they said that I should send the rifle to them as it has a five year warranty. I asked the service rep to check with his supervisor about this. I was put on hold and when the rep came back on line he repeated that the data is proprietary.
Do you think you can get SIG to provide the data or does it look like we’ll all be sending our rifles to them every few tins of pellets?”
I told him I didn’t think there was a torque spec for those screws, but that I would ask. Well, shut my mouth! Dani Navickas of Sig told me that Sig does indeed torque those screws to 30 inch-pounds during assembly, but they recommend that their customers just tighten them with a standard Phillips screwdriver, and don’t over-tighten them. Dani worked at Beeman back when Dr. Beeman owned the company, and in those days all spring gun powerplants were very buzzy. They loosened their stock screws regularly. So Beeman told everyone to tighten the stock screws tight, and then turn them 1/4 turn further, just to be sure. DON’T DO THAT WITH THIS RIFLE!
The ASP20 powerplant is smoother than most springers that only have half the power. It doesn’t need its stock screws tightened by a fanatic.
Dani also warned me that the rear triggerguard screw is just a wood screw and should not be tightened this way. It will hold on its own, and if you crank on it you’ll just strip it out.
Okay, let’s get started. All shooting today is with the rifle resting directly on a sandbag.
Today I am checking the zero of the Whiskey3 scope that came mounted on my rifle. This report is more about the scope than the rifle, though the rifle has to be involved. I’m not so much interested in accuracy as I am which pellets will coincide with the crosshairs as the distance to the target changes.
Ed Schultz told me the scope that came on my rifle had been zeroed at 10 yards, so that’s where I started. Today I will use the Crux Pb (lead) domed pellets that Sig recommends. I will also use JSB Exact Jumbo domes and see how they compare. Although the rifle was zeroed at 10 yards, the scope scale on the elevation knob was not moved by the person who did the work. It came to me indicating 20-35 yards. And I shot at 10 meters rather than 10 yards.
This is where the scope scale was set when I got the rifle.
Crux seated deep
I started with 5 Crux pellets seated deep. These pellets do not go into the breech easily, so I used the tip of a pen to seat them deep. At 10 meters 5 pellets went into a 0.259-inch group that was high and to the right of the aim point.
Five deep-seated Crux pellets went into 0.259-inches at 10 meters. It’s a good group, but it’s not on the aim point, which is the dot in the center of the bull.
Crux seated flush
Next I tried 5 Crux seated flush with the breech — thinking that was what the person at Sig had probably done. I used the plastic scale on one side of a pocketknife to press the pellet into the breech.
The first shot with the pellets seated flush was dead on target. I thought I was home free, but the group then spread out
When seated flush 5 Crux pellets made this 0.58-inch group at 10 meters. The first shot was dead-on the aim point, but the rest did this.
JSB Exact Jumbo
I then decided to try the JSB Exact Jumbo pellet. Up to this point the scope was left where it was. These pellets seat flush in the breech snugly, but easily with just finger pressure. Five made a 0.175-inch group at 10 meters. It’s very good but unfortunately, too high. So I dialed the scope’s elevation down by three clicks and tried again.
The first group of JSB pellets was 0.175-inches between centers, but a little high.
Three clicks down did move the group in the right direction, but not far enough. This time 5 JSB pellets went into 0.322-inches at 10 meters.
The group came down, but not enough. Five JSB pellets are in 0.322-inches at 10 meters.
I dialed the scope down another 5 clicks and shot again. This group is where I want it to be for elevation, but it’s too far to the right. The group measures 0.144-inches between centers.
This time the elevation is good, but the group is too far to the right. Five JSB Exact pellets in 0.144-inches at 10 meters. If I had shot 10 pellets this would have a trime (a silver three-cent piece) next to it!
I put in three clicks of left adjustment and tried again. This time the group is almost exactly where I want it and 5 JSB pellets are in 0.308-inches at 10 meters. That’s close enough for me. I put in 3 more clicks of left adjustment for good measure and moved back to 25 yards. That may or may not center the group at the farther distance, but it will be close, and I can refine it better back there.
Five JSB pellets are in 0.308-inches and a nice round group. This will do for 10 meters.
Before I moved back, though, this is when the scale on the scope gets adjusted. I removed the 2mm Allen screw on top of the elevation adjustment knob and lifted the knob off the turret. Then I placed it back on the turret with the number 11 (11 yards is 10 meters) on the scale aligned with the index mark. Then I tightened the Allen screw. That is all there is to it! Now, back to 25 yards.
When the groups were centered on target this is where the elevation wheel ended up. So I removed it…
…and reinstalled it here. Notice that 11 yards (10 meters) is the same as 50 yards.
Oh boy! If I am right about this, the pellets should pass through the center of the bull, or very close. So, I adjusted the parallax on the scope until the image was sharp and then dialed the elevation adjustment to 20-35 yards.
Then I shot 5 JSBs. But they didn’t land in the center of the bull. They all landed high and to the right. The group is nice, at 0.472, but it isn’t where I expected it to be. It’s very close, but not exact. What is wrong?
Five JSB pellets went into 0.472-inches at 25 yards, but the group is high. What gives?
And then it hit me. Sig set this scope up for the Crux lead pellet — not the JSB. I hadn’t shot that pellet at 25 yards yet because I was fixated on the JSB. I wonder what would happen if I shot the Crux seated flush?
The first Crux pellet hit the center of the bullseye! Second pellet was next to it on the right. Then one went high and left, followed by two more to the right. In the end I got a horizontal group that measures 0.614-inches between centers. It does demonstrate that the Crux will go to the point of aim when the Whiskey3 scope is used. But I wanted a smaller group to finish today’s report. How much does a Crux lead pellet weigh?
Five Crux lead pellets seated flush went into 0.614-inches at 25 yards. This group is on the aim point.
According to my digital scale a lead Crux weighs 16.1 grains. Do I have any other pellets, besides the JSB Exact Jumbos, that weigh close to that? Why, yes! The Air Arms dome weighs 16 grains on the nose.
I really wanted to see, so I got a tin of those and shot my last 5-shot group. It is DEAD-ON for elevation with the same scope setting! All it needs is a little bit of left adjustment. Five pellets went into a group that measures 0.412-inches at 25 yards. It’s the smallest 25-yard group of the test.
Five Air Arms domes went into this 0.412-inch group at 25 yards.
Where are we?
We are just getting started with the ASP20. What we have seen today is that the Whiskey3 scope does indeed work as advertised. That it hits the point of aim at any distance that’s dialed into its elevation knob, once it is zeroed and the scale is adjusted. And I have told you how to adjust it, once the scope is zeroed.
Peripherally, we have begun to see the accuracy of the rifle. Five-shot groups are not the best for demonstrating accuracy, but until I have the rifle dialed in they allow me more time to test things. Ironically, once I get to that part of the test I’m going to have to re-zero the scope so it doesn’t shoot away my point of aim.
Now, here are some things I haven’t mentioned yet. The Matchlite trigger is superb! Dare I say it — it’s an American Rekord! It doesn’t adjust as light as a Rekord, but it is completely safe from any adjustments you have no business making, where the Rekord is not. And it is just as crisp as you could ever want.
The ASP20 shoots so smoothly that I have to call it the modern FWB 124. Only this rifle produces almost twice the power of a 124 with less than 50 percent more cocking effort.
The rifle is quiet. Don’t ask me — my cats will vouch for it. I did not disturb them throughout the entire session.
Well I’m going to clean the barrel for starters. Ed Schultz told me that some of the rifles seem to need a light cleaning when they are new while others do not. I will clean it and then try those Crux pellets once again. I will try them both seated flush and also seated deep.
And some of you readers are concerned about cleaning an air rifle barrel that has active sound deadening technology in it. You are afraid of loosing a cleaning patch in the baffles. I will address that in the next report.
And I still have to test the accuracy difference between an artillery hold and a sandbag rest. I want to do that with the most accurate pellet — which I still need to find. This is going to be fun!
Sig tells me the Whiskey3 scope should be available to bundle in early 2019.
I seem to remember an acclaimed blogger once saying, “Buy it, buy it, buy it!” That would be my assessment of the ASP20 at this time.
55 thoughts on “Sig ASP20 rifle with Whiskey3 ASP 4-12X44 scope: Part 4”
Sure hope you have a better way to remove a barrel cleaning patch than a straightened out paper clip with a hooked end.
BB do you have a time schedule devoted to writing this blog every day or does it happen at random or in advance on occasion? I could see how replying to blog entries would definitely interfere with it when your deadline is approaching. Do you have a time of day you would prefer us to use for questions. Or a time we might try to avoid them? I’m sure they could pile up sometimes.
There is a definite time schedule, but randomness is also a part of nit. If something doesn’t work as planned I have ton get creative.
Me too about the paper clip.
The Patchworm cleaning kit is the best solution to clean the barrel of an airgun when the breech is not accessible with a rod. It’s really an innovative method. The line looks like weedeater line but it has a stop on it. A small cylinder is threaded onto the line for the appropriate caliber. Then the patch is threaded on the line. The cylinder creates a good fit for the patch. If the gun has a moderator with baffles, then a straw is inserted from the muzzle end thru the baffles. Then the line is inserted into the breech and pushed down the barrel and thru the straw. Then the straw is removed and the patch is pulled thru the barrel from the breech as it should be done. http://patchworm.com/small_cal.html
Thanks for the info. Been using rods but these fixed LDCs are forcing me to reconsider. Good price.
I saw a video of one of the air gun reviewers demonstrating it over the weekend. I was very impressed with what I saw. Very good common sense concept.
Another great report on a remarkable machine! I read once that the scope is “optimized” for 14-16 grain pellets.
Yet the recommended pellet is over, just the 16 grain threshold. Is this, do as I say and not as I do???
Hopefully, we can get a 50 yard test and perhaps a test shooting the gun off of no bag, free hand. This would replicate a true hunting scenario.
Thanks again for a great report!
PS On one of the forums, an early adopter mentioned that the trigger adjustment screw just behind the trigger was loosening. With no torque specs, what to do?
Rekord or Rekford? Looking good so far. Sub 1/2″ at 25 yards is respectable, especially without any special hold.
Nice on the scope. This does limit it to the 16 grain range though. Heavier or lighter and the scale would be off as the 25/35 fixed mark would illustrate. Still, a very nice feature.
Idea!!!!! If the turret had 2 independent bands that could rotate,….. then the near and far distances could be “custom tuned” to whatever pellet that you happen to be shooting. Someone could try that with some plastic tubing, cut one side and slip on. 2 tape bands could do the same, but not be adjustable without removing and repositioning. At any rate,…. just an idea.
Good Day to one and all,….. Chris
If the scale does not match up with the pellet, you can change it out with the “standard” one they send with the scope (Part 2).
Many FT shooters have custom elevation knobs with a paper or a tape band where they mark elevation settings for their ranges.
I still think that 2 well fitting bands marked with yardage would allow a person to set the near/far for whatever they are shooting. In the case of FT, the person will have a best pellet picked out and tape would be fine. I may try the tape method on the Red Wolf just to explore yardage marked turrets. Holding the bull on would be more accurate than somewhat guessing at holdover/under.
B.B.,… On the Rekord,…. for some reason that I can not explain,…. I have always pronounced it Rek-a-ford. Never having shot/owned a rifle with one,… I (obviously) have not been paying attention. My AM work day blog reading time is 20-30 minutes at very best. 🙁
Hey, I like the yards thing. I am way too old and crotchety to join the EU. I shoot at yards. I do not have a meter measure.
It is indeed fortunate that I cannot afford one of these right now, most especially since I personally would want the synthetic stock. By then they should have the W3 scopes to bundle with it. For once I would like to have a bundled scope with my sproinger.
Same here, but are we going to wait for the adjustable cheek piece?
The Whiskey 3 scope is as impressive as the rifle.
It’s nice to see a company like Sig that actually listens to consumers and then makes the things they crave
(as opposed to trying to use slick marketing to make us crave whatever they happen to produce).
Kudos to them, and to you for the report.
Wishing a blessed day to all,
Nice groups at 25 yards, bet that 1″ spinners at 40-50 yards would be no problem for the ASP20 🙂
Thanks for the reminder. It’s been a long time since I had Carl’s spinners out for some fresh air! 😉
BB if you have time have to shoot that rifle at 40-50 yds
I had to send my ASP20 back to PA.
The wood screw in the rear trigger guard was stripped out.
Additionally, the trigger travel adjustment was turning a quarter turn with every shot. After 10 shots, I no longer had a first stage – made it very difficult to shoot effectively.
After messing with the trigger adjustment, I decided to test the other screws, the two up front were solid, the front trigger guard was solid, but the rear trigger guard just spun and spun.
I really liked how it shot – I also had sub half inch groups at 25 yards – using JSB 15.89 pellets – so a new one should be on the way soon.
Welcome to the blog.
Thanks for the feedback on your ASP20. That problem with the trigger adjusting on its own must be why the spring is so stiff.
Yours was a .22 caliber, as well. I hope we will hear from someone who has a .177.
Guess who’s got a .177 for testing….
So far so good. Coming up on the 1000 pellet mark through the gun. Should be filming with it next week
Oh, goody! 🙂
Welcome too. Sorry for the troubles that you have incurred. Blue Loctite works well for a machine screw, but the stripped wood screw is inexcusable. If the trigger travel adjustment screw is an issue with all rifles, then some type of thread locker should have been used at the factory. Best wishes on getting one that is done proper. Please keep us posted how the new one does for you.
I got my replacement ASP20 in .22.
Cocks and loads just as nice.
Trigger immediately got adjusted to lightest pull, and long first stage with a crisp break into second.
Took it outside without cleaning the barrel, and shot this at 25 yards:
Pretty happy with the new one. The travel adjustment screw is no where near as loosey goosey as the last one, everything seems to be staying pu, after 50 or so shots, I shot another group just like the one shown above…I didn’t walk out to photo that one though.
Thank you for the update. I am very glad that everything seems to be working out better. Nice shooting at 25 yards by the way! 🙂
Now the question for SIG is to figure out why you had issues with the first one. I hope they send it back for a post mortem autopsy.
Well, looky what I found. It looks like Daisy is getting into the 3-P air rifle competition.
I have been tracking that rifle for a long time. Pyramyd Air hopes to carry it.
And I hope to test it.
And, Daisy STARTED 3P competition in the US, so they aren’t just getting in, they are returning.
Well, it is about time. They have been into bb guns for so long I guess it has taken Gamo to have them thinking pellet rifles again. I will be most interested in the quality of that rear aperture. The AirForce Edge rear aperture is awesome.
Guys this may be common knowledge but I never really talk to people about it so who knows.
A good repair to a striped out hole in wood is to stick a wooden tooth pic, or two or three, depending on the shape flat or round, in the hole and reinstall the screw. Spacing may be necessary to keep the screw centered.
Break it off to length and put the widest part in the hole first, or what ever works in any case.
Adding some wood glue with it may help in some cases, when screwed in wet but I don’t need it much. Heck outdoors I have used twigs and splinters on some larger holes.
I have also seen a small square of metal mesh to jam into the hole then insert the screw it worked well but the toothpick and glue method is great
I have used the toothpick trick several times and it works!
Yes, I have used the toothpick fix also. It does work well, but one shouldn’t have to do a fix on a new gun.
100% agree. Anyone that has done woodworking (knows) when they strip a screw into wood. In my opinion, that is a poor choice of fastener. A metal insert that allows the use of a machine screw would be far better. Slotted and Phillips screw heads leave a lot to be desired anyways. Allen or Torx are much, much better. Also, not everyone has a (precision) set of Slotted and Phillips set of drivers laying around.
You are correct. Exactly as I was thinking, a metal insert for the screw to fasten into…and yes, an allen head or torx would be much better. The stock screws (bolts) on my Urban are both allen head. When I first saw those, my thoughts were, this is how a quality gun should be assembled.
Screendoor screen and window screen used to be metal. Nowadays it is some kind of rather pliable polycarbonate. I should think a folded strip of the appropriate width and length could be pushed into a stripped wooden hole and remain centered, rather than hoping toothpick(s) will maintain the oringinal screw axis. A judiciously sized drop of cyanoacrylate might be used before reseating the screw, but quite possibly no necessary.
Yesterday Mozilla Firefox updated their web browser to version 64 on my desktop computer. Guess what? They have removed the core support for RSS feeds from this latest version. Now Firefox will no longer open the RSS comments feed on the blog site…bummer. Mozilla stated that it was a seldom used feature so they removed it.
So now I am asking anyone here in the blog who uses Firefox, what RSS reader is best to read the RSS comments? I looked at a couple of Firefox extensions and was not impressed with those. There are many stand alone RSS readers but that means installing a separate program. I hate change…especially when it doesn’t make things better! Any ideas here would be helpful. Thanks.
Very nice reports on the ASP20. Looking forward to future reports. This breakbarrel may make the hold sensitive breakbarrels obsolete. If I were looking for a new spring or gas ram airgun, this would be at the top of my list.
Internet Explorer and Yahoo works fine for me.
Since they warned about a few months ago I have been experimenting with alternate methods of viewing the RSS feed. Right now Feedbro a Firefox extension seems to be doing a good enough job for me.
Maybe you can explain,….. but why is this RSS even an issue at all? I mean,…. what (can’t) you access on the internet? Where/what is the issue with RSS feeds?
The 25 cent answer will suffice as opposed to the $100 answer,…. 😉 You get the idea,…. 🙂
It used to be just click on the Comments RSS at the upper right hand corner in Firefox and viola! you have the comments in chronological order. Now you have to install an extra layer to get that same information.
Yes, as Siraniko explained, with the current day’s blog open you could just click on the RSS comments on the right side and about two day’s of comments would open with unread comments in BLUE and read comments in RED. This is with Firefox which until this lastest update had an RSS feed reader built into it. Now if one clicks on the RSS comments another window opens asking for an application. This is a non issue in MS Internet Explorer but I do not use that browser and haven’t for years. Firefox has always been much faster and I like the available add-ons that can be easily installed in it.
Yeah, I tried the FeedBro extension and I did not like the way it works…it’s not seamless like before.
I use the Firefox jump list to access the RSS comments which I have pinned. I just right click on the Firefox icon and select “comments for air gun blog” and it goes directly to the comments.
My solution for now is to reinstall FF version 63 and disable automatic updates so I don’t lose the the RSS reader built into version 63. So far I don’t like any of the FF extensions for RSS feeds.
LOL, I tried to keep it simple Chris.
I am old and do not like change either! Going from Windows XP to Windows 7 and then Windows 10 was too much of a change for me. I do not like the latter at all, but what can you do? Unfortunately, I am severely computer challenged and have to get help to resolve even the simplest of problems. A friend of mine installed Waterfox as my web browser a while back and it works fine for me,it may work for you. With it, the RSS feeds work just as you described yours did prior to the “update”.
Thank you for that information. I know what you are talking about with Windows. I used Windows XP right up until April 2017 and then only because Quicken was not supporting XP any longer. I upgraded to Windows 7 which I am still running. I am a computer tech but not as a business, only a side line. I have worked on all the operating systems and Windows 10 has been the most difficult to navigate for me.
I will check out the Waterfox browser, but I have Firefox back working to use RSS comments. I had to install a previous version and change the settings so it would not update to the new version which has the RSS reader removed. Appreciate your reply to me though.
If you ever have need of computer support, just post a question and I will most certainly help you with it. If you need more than I can easily provide here in the blog, I can give you my email address. I can also do remote support which allows me to control your computer from my location. This works very well to demonstrate how to perform tasks that users have problems doing by themselves. Very good teaching aid.
You are welcome and that is a very kind offer. Personally, I feel uncomfortable posting my personal email address online. If you have done so in the past, please give me a hint as to which blog it was posted on and I will contact you. I do not want to further turn this blog into a chat room and bore all the other readers with non airgun issues.
I would not be concerned about turning the blog into a chat room. It’s already somewhat of a chat room with off topic (airguns) subjects being posted quite often. B.B. welcomes off topic posts occasionally. I have made offers to help any of the bloggers here with computer issues. I have also posted my email address here. I am not at all concerned with doing that here. A couple of the bloggers have emailed me. I have seen your handle here in the blog a few times but not very often. A few of the guys comment here everyday…and I do read ALL comments everyday.
Everyone who posts here in the blog is considered a friend, and I help my friends with computer problems. I’ve never had a problem that I could not resolve, be it hardware, or software. I’ve been working in computer repair for over 25 years. I really appreciate your post with a link to fix the RSS feeder in Firefox. We can all learn from each other. In any case, my offer still stands. I’m retired and welcome the challenge. Here is my email address should you want any personal computer help: firstname.lastname@example.org And again, this goes for anyone here in the community.
After all the help I’ve gotten here over the past five years, it’s a joy to give back.
Crosman Nitro Venom .22
Diana RWS 34P .22
Gamo Urban .22
Pyramyd Air, thank you again for this option to edit these posts. It’s very helpful 🙂
Finally figured this out so,
I wish that Sig would tell/show how they say to clean a barrel with a suppressor. And I see where you are going to cover that. Thanks to you. I did a little shooting today @ 50 yds with a 10/12 mph wind. Wsa just trying to get some idea as to the drop from a 25 yd zero. Will do chrony later. The gun was rested on a Caldwell tripod front and bag rear with the rear most checkering over the middle of the rest. Was having to use a mildot for windage but the last 5 shots were 1 1/2″ low. Had 4 shots in 1/2″ and all 5 were within 3/4″. As per your article about the trigger adjustment, I moved the pull 3 times to lighten it as it was above 3 pounds and the second stage all the way in and then 1/4 turn out. Trigger is now at 1 1/2 first stage and a little below 2 on firing. Crisp as all getout. Love it so far. Just one thing. If you wear a ring on your right hand and are right handed you ca/will scratch the suppressor a little. Thanks again for all the work you do for all of us.
Welcome to the blog. Thanks for your report.
This was with AA 16 but not sure of the head size as these were the culls.
Maybe this will show group
I received my ACP20 .22 this past Monday. I zeroed it at 10 meters with my 6-24 X 50 AO scope. I used the 11 different pellets I have in .22. I shot one each of the eleven pellets and they all landed in a group, no fliers, close enough to the aim point that all it needed was minor adjustment. The group might have been an inch, but this is eleven different pellets. I proceeded to shoot each pellet in separate targets. I never shot so many holes in one ! I did not measure the groups but they are tight enough for me. Now to zero at longer distance and that may thin the pellets. My rifle arrived well double packed and in fine shape. The barrel was perfectly clean, could not believe how it seemed to shine. I lightened the trigger all the way before shooting the first time. Tightened all screws to 30 inch pounds except for the rear guard screw which is a wood screw and only 1/2 inch long, how can that hold ! I did try to snug it up but it was already stripped from assembly. I replaced it with a longer screw of same diameter but have to be careful with that also because the wood seems a bit soft. The rifle is so smooth to handle it just slides into place. The weight and the power is not noticed at all. I shoot seated and break the rifle over my lap. At first the barrel would snap back into place. But then I learned that if I broke it a bit harder it would travel further and kind of lock partly open where I could lift it up and finish cocking. That’s all I can think of now. I have nothing negative…..
I’d be interested, if anyone has tested them with the ASP20, to know how .22 slugs shoot in this rifle; referring to 19-21 grain slugs. Realize slugs are recommended for use in PCPs only, according to one manufacturer’s website. If this is a definite no-no practice, please…don’t go ballistic with me.
From what I gather,…. a PCP will continue to supply air/push until the pellet leaves the barrel. A gas/springer has only has a fixed amount of air/push. You may be risking getting a heavy pellet stuck in the barrel on a gas/springer.
Agree – there is a reason why the slugs are recommended for PCPs only. This rusty airgunner appreciates the input.
Mmmm…. So it seems that being a bit hardcore about torque specs has paid off ;-).
I actually got the word early in the week when I talked to Mat at SIG after calling customer service for a 2nd time. The 2nd time was a charm. Matt shared the unpublished torque specs with me. He also spent time talking to the air rifle gurus hidden in the bowels of the factory over a power issue I was having.
Basically, I’d ask a question or offer an observation, he would put me on hold, check with the gurus who are never allowed to talk with customers, and respond. I learned a lot. Kudos to Matt and SIG for turning a customer service call into a productive event – unlike my first experience. Looks like they are working to have their PB people learn a thing or two about airguns..
I cleaned my barrel when I un-boxed the rifle. I did the unthinkable and pushed a patch through from the breech with a cleaning rod. The patch was attached to the cleaning rod via a pointy probe that speared the patch. It worked like a charm, although I was a bit worried when I pushed the first couple patches through the barrel and suppressor.
Some may want to pull a patch from the other end. Starbucks or Dunkin Donuts straws may be small enough to fit into the suppressor to provide a path for a pull cord cleaning assembly. McDonalds straws are too thick.
FYI – I have 400 pellets through the barrel so far. Cocking effort is less than what I experience with my LGV that now has a new Timbum spring.
Finally, I’m not a hunter so the following comment is limited in scope unlike your more experienced observations and findings. In other words, I’m not offering an opinion as to trigger pull for ASP20 uses other than air rifle bench rest (BR).
I think the ASP20 could be a competitive BR gun if the trigger pull lightens up some more. Trigger pull is just too heavy IMHO to compete with Walther LGVs and LGUs, TX200s, HWs and the like. In fact, trigger pull (just over 2 lbs in my rifle) is about 1 lb too heavy for BR events.
Hmmm. Perhaps I should call my new best friend Matt and ask if the custom shop can do a trigger job while SIG has my rifle.
Thank you for checking with SIG BTW. Your mention of their response will do more than anything else to get the word out to current and prospective ASP20 owners.
The other Mark B.