Hatsan BullMaster PCP: Part 1

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Hatsan Bullmaster
Hatsan BullMaster semiautomatic bullpup PCP.

This report covers:

  • Like the Sortie
  • Comparisons?
  • Companies change over time
  • Description
  • Fill
  • Pressure gauge
  • Magazines
  • Sights
  • Trigger
  • So much more to tell
  • Next

Today I start my review of the Hatsan BullMaster precharged pneumatic air rifle. This is a repeating semiautomatic air rifle in bullpup configuration. It is available in both .177 and .22 calibers and the published energies, 21/31 foot-pounds, respectively, are right where they should be for a handy hunting air rifle. I am testing the .22, but since it was sent directly from Hatsan, I won’t publish the serial number. Your chances of getting this particular airgun are slim.

Like the Sortie

I tested the Sortie semiautomatic air pistol for you in a 5-part review back in September and October, and I did it intentionally. I had this BullMaster at that time, and since the actions of the two airguns are so similar, I wanted to start with the smaller one first. Testing the Sortie got me ready for the BullMaster.

The Sortie I tested was a 14 foot-pound airgun. That’s suitable for hunting, but I think the greater power of the BullMaster makes it an even better choice. We discovered in testing that the Sortie is quite accurate, when the right pellets are used. The Sortie likes H&N Baracudas with a 5.50mm head, so I will be sure to include them in the testing of this rifle.

Comparisons?

A lot of readers want me to compare the airguns I test with other airguns they know. I don’t do that for a good reason. All airguns are not alike and there can be variations within a certain model and caliber of gun. Who knows whether the rifle you buy will be the same as the rifle I test? Some manufacturers hand-select airguns for tests that they know will be published. I have no control over that. So, when I test an airgun, it’s just that one gun I’m reporting on — not the entire line and not every example of that model.

Over time you will see that certain manufacturers tend to produce guns at the same level. A test of one can be extrapolated to others of the same type. But other manufactures do not have a good track record for consistency. A test of one of theirs only tells you what that specific airgun will do.

However — you readers can think for yourselves. So, when I tell you a certain airgun produces 31 foot-pounds at the muzzle, you can compare it to tests of other airguns that produce similar power. The same holds true for shot count, accuracy, the quality of the trigger and any other objective specification you can name. It’s more work for you, but I try to give you as much information as I can to make that evaluation.

Companies change over time

I will not name names, but I have seen airgun companies change the quality of their products over time. It works both ways — some getting better and some worse — and is a reflection of who is in change in the company at the time. Having said that I will now say that Hatsan precharged airguns have a very solid reputation for quality, accuracy and honesty in advertising. If they say the BullMaster produces 31 foot pounds in .22 caliber, that’s what I expect to see when I test it.

Description

The BullMaster is a 10.3-pound repeater. Yes that is heavy and yes, when you mount a scope it will be even heavier. But that’s why Hatsan installed sling swivels at the factory and also why they provide a Picatinney mount on the bottom front of the forearm for a bipod. I plan to use it!

The overall length of the rifle is a compact 30.9 inches. That makes it very compact and emphasizes the weight. Still, the bullpup design allows for a 19.7-inch barrel inside the full shroud.

The sculpted rubber comb adjusts up via a spring-loaded button on the left side of the butt. It’s already high at its lowest position, but after I mount a scope I may need some adjustment for good eye alignment. The description says the stock is ergonomic and after some examination and handling I have to agree, though I will need some time behind the trigger to know better.

The magazine is the same one we saw with the Sortie. In .177 the magazine holds 14 pellets, and in .22 it holds 12. The stock contains the action, which is typical of the bullpup design. A bullpup is a rifle whose action is set back at the rear of the gun, so the overall length of the rifle can be as short as possible. The shrouded barrel should keep the report quiet, and I will be reporting on that as the test advances.

Fill

The BullMaster accepts a fill to 250 bar, which is 3,626 psi, so it’s not a gun to fill from a hand pump. You will want a large large carbon fiber tank to fill this one. Hatsan has their proprietary fill probe that they package with the rifle, but I have made a universal adapter by attaching an Air Venturi adaptor that has a male Foster connection on the other end.

Not only is the reservoir filled to 250 bar, it also holds 500cc. That combination should give a good number of shots. The description on the Pyramid Air website says 60 for .177 and 50 for .22. I will test that for you, as well.

Pressure gauge

You can look all over the rifle and never see the onboard pressure gauge. It’s hidden deep inside the hollow pistol grip on the forearm. It’s small and a little hard to see, but I imagine after you get familiar with the rifle it won’t be a problem to know how many shots remain.

Magazines

The BullMaster comes with three magazines. Two are stored in the rubberized synthetic stock (you can see one in the picture) when the third one is in use. The shot count will be important because there may be enough shots on one fill that a hunter needs to carry nothing besides three loaded magazines. I’m hoping that is the case.

Sights

There are no open sights on the rifle so an optical sight of some kind will be required. As you can see in the picture, the BullMaster receiver top is a Picatinney rail, so either mounts for that or Weaver rings will attach. But Hatsan has also made an 11mm dovetail on the same platform, so the choice of scope rings is a big one. The bullpup style means the scope will have to be mounted high. And after examining the rifle I can see that a shorter scope is going to be best. I am thinking something in the 4-12 compact category, but we’ll see.

Hatsan Bullmaster scope rail
The clever scope rail accepts both 11mm and Weaver/Picatinney rings.

Trigger

Bullpup triggers need long linkages because of the design. The trigger has to function at the action, which is under your face, but your trigger finger wants to be a comfortable distance from your shoulder. That long linkage usually means some degradation in the feel of the trigger, so I will be focusing on that in my report.

The BullMaster is semiautomatic, so after the magazine is loaded and the first pellet is chambered all you have to do is pull the trigger until the magazine is empty. I liked that feature on the Sortie and I think I am going to love it on the BullMaster — with the difference being that this rifle is steadied against my shoulder, where the Sortie is held in two hands with no shoulder contact.

So much more to tell

Examining the BullMaster, I can see that I am only scratching the surface of this very different air rifle. You can see in the first picture that the stock is entirely different than a conventional rifle stock, so of course the hold will be, as well. I can see and feel that right now, but it’s kind of like sitting in a new car in the dealer’s showroom. It seems one way as you just sit there, but until you get it out on a test drive you really don’t know a lot. I need to get some trigger time before I can comment on many of these things.

Right now the rifle feels large yet also compact. It feels heavy, but maybe in a good way. The stock fits different than a conventional rifle, but I can’t tell whether or not it’s a good different. I have to get some time on the trigger.

Next

My next step will be to shoot the velocity test. That doesn’t really meet the need for trigger time, but it does familiarize me with the rifle’s operation. The time I spent with the Sortie has also helped. All in all, I am going to enjoy this test.

93 thoughts on “Hatsan BullMaster PCP: Part 1

  1. BB
    When I make an early post it’s usually at the end of the ‘day before’ extended into the early hours in the morning. When I check in and there is no new post I simply assume its a weekend ! Retirement plays with your mind,. Never considered you were posting late .

    Looking forward to this blog. I have the FX Indy and Hatsan Gladius bullpups. Both are heavy but handle very well. It feels much lighter in this configuration. Would like to know how well it stays on target during rapid fire and your opinion of the open trigger housing as far as safety is concerned when you grab the pistol grip.


  2. Well got to say. I do like bullpups. And there are sure some pretty ones out there. But not this one.

    And I guess I can get over it’s looks if it is accurate and reliable. But it better be pretty darn accurate and shoot everytime the trigger is pulled. That would trump the looks. And it better be if it’s a hunting gun.


  3. I must agree, there are some beautiful airguns out there.. But this sure is not one of them.

    It looks like a weaponized blow drier if you ask me.

    Maybe I’m just gettin’ old. I just appreciate vintage airguns more I suppose.

    Carel


  4. Interesting. Computer on, fumble my way to the blog, still blurry eyed. I was pretty sure I was having some bizarre dream and was really still in bed. 😉

    The price is certainly up there on this. It had better perform on that point alone. I have said before that I admire Hatsan’s innovation. They would seem to have no limits, at least on how far they will go on looks anyway.

    Odd looking and expensive as it may be,.. I look forwards to the testing and learning more.

    Good Day to one and all,… Chris



  5. B.B.

    Why do Bull pumps trend to be so heavy. Since there is less of everything, I would think they could be lighter?

    Won’t an electronic trigger cure the long long linkage problem?

    Great idea on the scope rail. Maybe you could “brow beat” some manufactures to make it a standard!!!!

    Thanks,

    Yogi



      • Just about all scopes now come with illumination(not mine however).
        They need batteries.
        Batteries have come a LONG way since the FWB 90…..

        -Y
        ps how about a review of an electronic triggered airgun?


        • Yogi,

          You’re right, of course. My front paw was stuck in a tar pit and I guess I was flustered.

          Electronic triggers, eh? I will look for one. I know the Morini 161 has one but I hate to tie up a $1600 pistols just to prove batteries work.

          B.B.




            • Yogi,

              In addition to daystate, feinwerkbau, steyr and others have produced airguns with electronic triggers.

              Some people like them others don’t. I’m in the latter category.

              I had a daystate mct which was the model introduced after the daystate mvt which had many problems. Never had a problem with the battery or charger or circuit board but many owners did.

              An electronic trigger doesn’t give any feedback. It feels like you’re clicking on the mouse of your computer.


              • Kevin,

                Thanks for weighing in with your experience. I once tested a Morini 161E with the electronic trigger and it didn’t feel different than the mechanical one. For my money, I’ll take the simpler solution every time.

                As far as scopes needing batteries — that assumes you use the illuminated reticle. I seldom do. It’s funny — I own more than 50 flashlights that all take batteries and I’m fine with them, but not on guns.

                B.B.


                • B.B.,

                  You’re much more forgiving when it comes to triggers than I am. I’m stuck in the past. I like a nicely adjusted two stage mechanical trigger.

                  Don’t get me wrong. The electronic trigger on the daystate mct broke at mere ounces BUT it felt like a mushy single stage. Best analogy I can offer is it’s like clicking a mouse.

                  You’re certainly in the majority when it comes to electronic triggers. Requiring a battery, plus in the example of the daystate guns, a circuit board, the reliability factor diminishes in the eyes of airgunners. I think this is the reason that electronic triggers have never and will never take over the majority of market share.

                  kevin



                    • Yogi,

                      Don’t dismiss bullpups because of their triggers. And don’t think that electronic triggers are the only solution.

                      For bullpups with great mechanical triggers the bobcat has an outstanding trigger and so do the crickets and vulcans. The taipan mutant supposedly has a very good trigger but I’ve never shot one. The trigger on the edgun I’ve shot quit a bit has a decent trigger.

                      It’s not the triggers on bullpups that put me off it’s the ergonomics. I can’t get used to my face on the breech.


                  • Kevin
                    Having never shot a gun with an electronic trigger, and as a neophyte shooter my opinion is probably inconsequential but that’s never stopped me from posting before. So that being said I feel manufacters missed an opportunity with electronic triggers to do something totally different, albeit sacrilegious. Rethinking trigger location and design. On a rifle it could be a button or switch located behind the receiver like the Mossberg safety. For a pistols maybe a shelf on the thumb side with a switch on top ready to actuate with the thumb. It seems like you can move your thumb with out disturbing the rest of your grip, while moving your trigger finger requires the use of more of your hand. Maybe the ball and socket joint of the thumb isolates it’s motion from the rest of the hand. Just a thought.


                    • Codeuce,

                      It’s not as new or as sacrilegious as you think. The Winchester thumb trigger was a .22 that used a thumb button to fire the gun. That was around 1903.

                      Then there are the release triggers. Shotgunners use them. Pull the trigger and noting happens until you release it. Then the gun fires.

                      Then there are various “lemon-squeezer” pistols that fire when you squeeze the grip. The Chicago palm pistol is one example of these and the Shattuck is another.

                      All of these were mechanical.

                      B.B.


                    • B.B.
                      Never heard of a release trigger that’s novel. Nothing new under the sun is a phrase that haunts me quite frequently it seems. I mean I had the idea for the vacuum gun until your blog about it popped up when I researched it.






  6. B.B.,

    Usually I’m the one who likes futuristic-looking air guns. But this one doesn’t just look like it’s from a sci-fi movie; it looks like a section of the solid waste removal system of a space ship. Hideous.

    What follows is a list of my immediate impressions of this air, uh, gun:

    Why does Hatsan insist on designs that automatically exclude 12 percent of the market (lefties)? That is not a good business plan if you ask me.

    10.5 pounds without the necessary optics? This is one that should be designed to sit atop the shoulder a la a launcher, not in front of it.

    Is it U.S. legal like that, with no trigger guard?

    The BullMaster: A benchrest-only, too-short-for-bench-resting, right-handed-shooter-only piece of space ship plumbing. Talk about filling a narrow niche!

    Michael


    • Michael,

      100% agree. I am a North paw but shoot rifle left. A new model, especially in synthetic ought to be released in ambi first. Period. End of story. This one is a bit odd in the auto-cycling bolt. But in general,… ambi (comb) first.


  7. B.B.,

    I just read the three user reviews for the BullMaster on the Pyramyd Air site, and they are glowingly positive. Much of the enthusiasm has to do with the ability of the air rifle to “rock ‘n’ roll,” so to speak. I do enjoy that myself with my 1077, so I get that. Perhaps I was just a little too harsh, except for my criticism regarding the BullMaster’s righty-only design. That does irk me.

    I’ve looked at the photos closely, and the elements that make it unusable for a lefty could easily, I suspect, have been designed instead to be ambidextrous without making it less ergonomic for righties. At the very least the bolt could have been designed such that it could be reversed, converting the air rifle to lefty. I believe AirForce has had that option for some time as has the Marauder II.

    As it is, even if I liked everything about the BullMaster, I would not be able to shoot one, making for me your comment, “Your chances of getting this particular airgun are slim” have a second, unintended meaning. :^(

    Michael


    • Michael
      I enjoy shooting my Wild Fire and my old Winchester 190.

      To me semi-auto guns are for fast action shooting. A pistol would probably be best. But look at the 3 gun competition.

      I myself like Tha action gun to be light and easy to move and keep on target. The short bull pup might be the ticket for that type of shooting too. But I for sure would want it to be light. That’s me anyway.


  8. Ok just wanted to post this real quick.

    I know a 2 litre soda bottle is a big target. Even at a 100 yards. Yesterday I posted pictures of a tin can I shot at 100 yards with my Maximus. I said I also have a 2 litre soda bottle placed out there.

    Well today since it’s calm out again I decided to shoot my self modded FWB 300 at the 2 litre bottle at the 100 yards. Got the scope set at 4 magnification and on infinity on the parallax and using JSB 10.34’s. I have hit the bottle every shot once I figured out the hold over. And that is exactly 4 mildots. My Maximus is only 2 mildots on 4 magnification and parallax set on infinity.

    But I think someone forgot to tell my FWB 300 it’s suppose to only be a 10 m gun. Wrong! 🙂



      • GF1,

        Nice on the shooting. The reg. for the Maximus is here. Sat or Sun. looks to be the play days. I have 0-30 shot chrony from before, so at least I can compare that many shots. I will post results over the weekend.


        • Chris
          Cool. Make sure you let me know before you put it in. There’s a couple things I want to point out on the regulator. And I did a cool little trick to the regulator to get it out easy if you need to pull it back out to adjust it. And I think you will find you will need to if you want to get it tuned nice.

          Looking forward to you installing it and getting it setup. 🙂


          • GF1,

            Feel free to point out (at your convenience). It came with 0 instructions, so I will need to refer to the e-mail you sent. No grease or anything either, but I have that. Plus, I will have to figure the PSI vs Bar,.. which I can do. Sat. AM looks to be the day, but I may do a tear down prior plus look over the E-mail links. I have seen fine wire or string attached for easy removal, but not sure yet on that without further study. So, recommend away (when you have time).





            • Chris
              I glanced at your post earlier when I got to work. And have reread it now.

              But yes that’s the trick to taking the regulator back out to adjust it. There’s a Allen head bolt that screws into the brass part of the regulator you adjust your pressure with. I tied some old .020″ guitar string to the bolt. Then tied a loop in the other end that I could easily get my finger in it. And I made the sure that the loop stuck about half way out of the tube. I just pushed it down in with the end peice that screws into the air resivoir tube. Definitely mak s it easy to get back out.

              And next that Allen head bolt that I attached the wire to. The instructions say that’s like a filter for the regulator. It keeps particles from getting in the regulator. But it says bottom the bolt out and back out 2-1/2 turns.

              Well I did that. And some how when I take the regulator back out that bolt was always bottomed out. Not tight. But definitely touching. So that’s how I had it there on out. And when I took the regulator out several more times I always found that bolt that way.

              And next the instructions say there is a little red dot on the brass part you adjust to correspond with the tape around the regulator that has the scale of Bar settings around it like a ruler. Mine just had a little fine line on it. So yo may want to put a dot on it so you can see the line better.

              But also take a ruler or something and measure how far out the brass adjusting screw is from the flat of the base that it screws in. You might have to turn the regulator brass adjusting screw more than one revolution. That way that measurement will give you your home position of that adjusting screw.

              And the last thing is go over the instructions multiple times to understand them. And definitely use the factory Maximus gauge. Don’t eliminate it like it says can be done as a option. You need that gauge to give a reference of how you adjust your regulator. The reason is the marks they have on the tape is a reference. Your regulated pressure does not move to what the tape marks say.

              So the best thing is to do is leave the regulator set as you get it. Put it in the gun and see where it comes out. And don’t forget to always completely depressurize the gun before you take it apart.

              But definitely read the instructions.


              • GF1,

                Thanks for the input. (I do see the fine line). (The brass part turns very easy, too easy in my opinion). (The screw turns very easy, too easy in my opinion). The spacer tube has 2 O-rings, 1 at each end. One is bigger than the other. Without looking, I assume that this goes between the air gauge block and the regulator. Then the regulator, with the screw pointing towards the fill port. The o-ring on the reg. body holds everything in place and against the air gauge body. I could see a good bump on the muzzle sending everything sliding forwards. Maybe not. I do not know the fit yet.

                The screw being bottomed after you turning it in and then out 2 1/2 turns is a bit odd/troubling. Does air flow/bleed past it? Blue Loctite would seem to a no-no if that is the case. Same for the brass part.

                Today is a bit bad to dig into this, but I will read the links later and get back with you. You can respond here, but I will most likely hit you up on the current blog after I have figured things out as far as I can on my own.


                • Chris
                  I reply here right now and we can pick up on today’s blog later.

                  First off I believe the pressure that you fill the resivoir presses on the threads of the Allen bolt and the brass adjusting screw. It takes up the slack between the threads.

                  And that Allen bolt is there to keep contaminants out of the regulator. Take that bolt out and there should be a hole through the brass adjusting screw.

                  What I noticed on my first couple of times I set the regulator I saw the gauge on the gun drop maybe 50 psi of the course of about 5 shots. Then it would hold the regulated pressure dead on till the shot string was done after the gun fell off the regulator. After I found the Allen bolt bottomed out each time. The next time I just slightly touched the Allen bolt down at the bottom of it’s movement screwing it in. From that point on I didn’t see that slight 50 psi drop. So that’s how I set that Allen bolt if I had to take the regulator out to adjust again.

                  And here is the part of the instructions that tell how to install it with the Maximus gauge. Which is the way you want to do it.

                  “Option A
                  Fitting the reg including the original pressure gauge adapter of the rifle.
                  Before you slide back the pressure gauge assembly into the tube, remove the front o-ring of the
                  pressure gauge assembly. This allows the regulator to breathe. Also check if the surface of the
                  pressure gauge adaptor is very smooth and without scratches so the regulator o-ring will seal properly.
                  If your rifle has a spacer between the valve and pressure gauge assembly please leave it in place.
                  If your plenum has a thick and a thinner o-ring, please place the thickest o-ring to the valvehouse or
                  pressure gauge assembly.
                  Then slide both the plenum as the regulator into the tube like the picture below.
                  Please note; the reghouse has an tiny 1 mm. hole in the aluminum body. Please assemble the
                  regulator with this hole facing upwards to the barrel/breech
                  8. When the reg is set in place, you can place the pressure gauge again.
                  Option B:
                  If you want to fit the regulator without the pressure gauge, then you can totally remove the pressure
                  gauge assembly and also remove the spacer what could be behind it in the pressure tube (not all
                  models use this spacer) and after this slide the plenum and next the regulator into the pressure tube.”


              • Chris
                It didn’t show the picture when I posted the instructions. But that email I sent you the other day shows the pictures and how the thinner and thicker o-ring go along with what o-ring you remove from the gauge port assembly.

                Oh and no. You can not just tap the muzzle end of the tube to get the peices out. There is instructions how to do that to in that email instructions I sent you.

                But holler at me over on today’s blog ok.


      • GF1,

        I LOVE my Monkey Bag! It is my all-time favorite accessory. The only problem I have with it is that I have only one.

        Have you ever tried to make it work as a rear, butt-stock bag? If so, can you describe (in words only, tough, I know) how?

        Michael


        • Michael
          No I have not tryed anything with a rear bag.

          And this might sound weird but I feel the gun with my shoulder and trigger hand. I can usually tell how much I need to grip a gun by the feel of the guns shot cycle at my shoulder. And that grip is really mostly my trigger hand.

          To me that’s what makes a difference with my hold be it a spring gun, PCP or even a firearm.

          I’m probably not describing what I mean very well. But that is what I look for. And I think that’s why I shoot a rifle better than a pistol. It’s like when you do something so long you get a feel for it. You know kind of like when a bluegill is nibbling on your bait or if it chomps down and runs. Told you it was kind of weird.


          • Gunfun1,

            That doesn’t sound weird, and your explanation of “feel” uses an excellent analogy, that it’s like when you feel that bluegill take the bait. You feel the subtleties through the rod and line. My hold is like that regarding the trigger-finger hand, but not with the off-hand. That I need to think about each time an concentrate on consciously.

            When I am behind something with a heavier trigger pull, I also am trying to change my interaction with the trigger blade from what I usually do by instead choking up on it slightly more to steady it at the last moment. With a target air rifle, I have always and still really need that fine sensation I get by centering the trigger on the last pad of my finger. With medium-weight triggered air guns, say with pulls over 2 1/2 – 3 1/2 pounds (depending on crispness), I am trying to remember to place the trigger in the crook of that last joint, and with very heavy trigger pulls, say seven or more pounds, I am trying to center the trigger on the middle pad of my trigger finger.

            Michael


            • Michael
              You know I always use the tip of my finger on the trigger.

              And I don’t move my whole finger back when I pull the trigger. I just slowly roll my finger back with both joints of the finger.


              • Gunfun1,

                That never occurred to me. I’ll try that this weekend. It sounds like a good technique for triggers with medium and light pulls, especially if they are 2-stage.

                Thanks for the tip,

                Michael


                • Michael
                  For me it works for a trigger with a heavier pull also.

                  Matter of fact that’s how I shoot pistols and even when I do fast action shooting with my semi-auto guns.


  9. One of my objections to the bullpup design is that the action is right under your face which puts you at risk if the gun blows up, but since this is not a firearm that is no longer a concern. The long trigger linkage remains a problem. Otherwise, I would have guessed that the bullpup design is for the sake of compactness that you might need in close quarters. Nobody is going to war with an air rifle. On the other hand, I recall that in some international event, the British army won an accuracy contest with their bullpup service rifle which at one time was considered the worst weapon out there but was rebuilt by HK. So maybe the bullpup has accuracy potential after all. One last comment is one that I saw on a forum about a new rc airplane design: “Kind of weird looking.”

    Matt61


  10. B.B.,

    One thing to mention in the next report is that this in not a gun for lefties. Not unless you like having your cheek or lip busted open by the bolt handle! Ouch!!!

    David H.


    • David,

      EXACTLY. Well put, Sir.

      It would have been just as simple to have made this design either ambidextrous or convertible to lefty. Righty ergonomics would not necessarily have suffered as a result. This is, in my opinion at least, poor marketing. If this shoots like a dream, an accurate dream, despite any other issues, I’d consider one as a part of my stable. However, no matter how wonderful it might be to a right-handed shooter, I am excluded as a potential customer.

      Does anyone take business marketing courses anymore? Even if not, does anyone read a market strategy book anymore? (I know, I know, does anyone even read a book anymore?)

      Anyway, David H., I very much appreciated, understood, and agree with your comment, and I thank you for having made it. Again, well put.

      Michael


  11. The first thing that popped into my mind was an elephants trunk. I don’t think thinking out of the box or advanced design ideas worked out well here.
    In my mind black guns should be bold angular, menacing and modular for total customizing with ergonomic parts that interface with the shooter able to be switched out as desired. I really like the R Arms Innovations chassis idea and a synthetic material would keep the weight down. I believe bullpups evolved for military use(?) and have obvious short falls for other uses.
    I am totally happy with a Semi-Bullpup design about carbine size if the design is more comfortable, like a longer, and adjustable, stock. I believe Evanix and FX have caught on some what.
    I often wonder why manufactures or designers don’t communicate with users more, both before and after a new design. Wonder how many hands up they got to proceed with this design ? Overly practical ?


    • Bob,

      I see the elephant’s trunk, too, although my mind didn’t see it until I read your description. My first thought was that the fore-grip looked like the back of the head of the mother alien in “Alien.” And at one point in the movie the character and the audience both mistake her head as part of the space ship’s industrial tubing.

      Michael


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