The HW 50S breakbarrel from Weihrauch.
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6
Part 7
Part 8
This report covers:
- The test
- H&N Excite
- Shooting behavior
- Crosman Premier 7.9-grain
- Light or heavy pellets?
- RWS R10 Match Heavy
- H&N Finale Match Light
- Where are we?
- Summary
Today we look at the accuracy of the HW 50S after being tuned with the Vortek PG4 SHO kit. For this test I shot four pellets that are new.
Today I mounted the Edge target peep sight to the rifle. And I put an aperture insert in the front sight, as well. I shot at 10-meter rifle targets. Let’s get started.
The test
Today’s test was shot at 10 meters off a sandbag rest. The rifle was rested directly on the bag. Each pellet was shot 10 times for a group, which is a difference from the past where I shot 5 shots.
H&N Excite
I sighted-in with the H&N Excite pellet, and once the pellets were hitting the bull I stopped and switched to shooting for accuracy. It took five shots to sight in — one from 12 feet and four from 10 meters. The Edge sight adjusts crisply and made the sight-in easier because its knobs have detents that can be felt.
The group of 10 Excite pellets measures 0.452-inches between centers of the two shots farthest apart. This pellet continues to surprise me with its performance at a reasonable price.
The HW 50S put 10 Excite pellets into this 0.451-inch group at 10- meters.
Shooting behavior
The rifle now shoots smoothly with a little forward jolt for each shot. The trigger is ideal, breaking exactly when and how I want it to.
On the other hand I dislike the effort required to cock the rifle. It’s way in excess of what I was hoping for. I’m just recording my thoughts for the future, because there is no way this rifle will remain tuned as it is.
Crosman Premier 7.9-grain
I shot the obsolete Crosman Premier 7.9-grain pellet next. Ten went into a group that measures 0.423-inches between centers And look at where they hit — directly opposite of where the Excite pellets hit the bull. This is why I don’t often adjust the sights, once the pellets are hitting within the bull.
Ten Premiers went into 0.423-inches at 10 meters.
Light or heavy pellets?
One question I want to answer was whether light or heavy pellets are best for this rifle. So the next pellet I tried was purposely heavier than the rest.
RWS R10 Match Heavy
Ten RWS R10 Match Heavy pellets made a scattered group that measures 0.744-inches between centers at 10 meters. While the group is well-centered it is a classic example of a pellet that’s not suited to a certain air rifle. It’s also an illustration of why 10-shot groups are more revealing than five-shot groups. Of course one group isn’t enough on which to base a decision, but when there are other pellets doing much better, it’s probably good enough.
Ten RWS R10 Match Heavy pellets made this 0.744-inch group at 10 meters. When the shots are scattered like this for a rifle that you know is accurate, it usually means the pellet isn’t suited to the airgun.
H&N Finale Match Light
The last pellet I tested was the H&N Finale Match Light. Ten of them went into a group that measures 0.354-inches between centers. It is the smallest group of today’s test and it also proves that the 50S is quite accurate. The previous smallest group of five shots that measured 0.422-inches.
Ten H&N Match Finale Light pellets made a 0.354-inch group. It’s the smallest one of the test.
Where are we?
Well, I like the size, smooth shooting, accuracy and trigger of the HW 50S. I dislike the heavy cocking effort. What I’m going to do is look for a way to decrease the cocking effort while maintaining all the other features that I like. This is something I need to ponder awhile.
Summary
The HW 50S is a delightful little breakbarrel rifle with just a bit too much power to suit me. The trigger is superb and I like the accuracy, but I need to find a way to shave about 10 pounds off the 37 lb. cocking effort, to make it a spring gun that’s also fun to shoot. Obviously you readers will have a lot to say about what I should do.
BB,
You showed in Part 5 that the PG4 kit is much shorter. You did not state how much preload was left. Originally there was 2 inches of preload. Isn’t this the kit with a washer in front? Maybe you can begin the quest for a lower cocking effort by removing the washer in front that probably adds to the preload. Although I don’t expect much change in the velocity since you won’t be changing the swept volume much you will probably do a chrono test after reassembly.
Siraniko
PS Section H&N Excite 2nd paragraph 2nd sentence: “This pellet continues to surporise (surprise) me with its performance at a reasonable price.”
PPS Section Light or heavy pellets? 1st sentence: “One question I want to answer was whether light of (or) heavy pellets are best for this rifle.”
Siraniko,
Got ’em. Thanks,
BB
B.B.,
That’s some wonderful accuracy, yet it comes at the price of some high cocking effort, nearly double that of my HW30S. It will be interesting to see what kind of tricks (I’m recalling the old cartoon Felix the cat and his magic bag of tricks) you use to reduce that. 🙂
Blessed Christmas to you,
dave
P.S. In the section titled “RWS R10 Match Heavy,” in the following sentence, I think you meant the first “is” to be an “it”:
“While the group is well-centered is is a classic example …”
P.P.S. Now I’ve got that cat song stuck in my head! 🙂
Dave,
I fixed it. Thanks,
And have a blessed Yeshua’s birthday.
BB
“And have a blessed Yeshua’s birthday.”
Thanks, B.B., I hope to do so; and along that line, here is an interesting write up on the celebration of Christmas from a brother in India:
https://www.thetruthone.com/life/spirituality/merry-christmas-why-do-we-celebrate-the-birth-of-jesus-christ-as-christmas/
BB
I don’t Ike heavy cocking springers either. All the spring guns I have tuned by spring cutting always cock easier and shoot smoother. And some the velocity even increased.
BB,
Like Siranko said, lose the washer first. If that is not enough, you can cut some off of the spring like GF1 said.
Hello BB,
Looking at Vortek‘s internet site, it seems like the PG4 steel kit exists in 2 versions, the HO which you seem to have for around 12 ft-lb and a less powerful version for stated 7.5 ft-lb.
From reading your past posts, I’d say that the second option sounds more like what you are generally looking for.
All the best
Pa
Papa,
Yeah, I’m thinking that way, too.
BB
I have the HO kit. It’s right at 12 fpe. I’d give Tom a call and ask how many coils in it and trim your spring. No need to flatten the end either.
BB
I think I have tried and done with the HW50 almost everything a man could do.
This rifle is at its best at around 13J Ek – that’s approx. 9.5 ftlbs. Not more. Your tuning kit is of very good quality, but too powerful. The HW50 is a medium energy design that may be forced to produce a relatively large amount of Ek, but then it is not as accurate. “Jumps” a lot. How much this affects the accuracy can be seen when we shorten the barrel to 28 cm. Then even the forced system is much more accurate. With a 28 cm barrel and 9.5 ftlbs of energy, it’s accurate as hell. My best 10-groups at 50m was 0.0xxx inch CTC without wind. It’s hard to believe I know. I also lost my faith many times shooting it 🙂
A very similar size is the Comet220 which is now set up to 12J – the performance is superb. Easy to cock like the HW30, accurate as hell.
Of course the max. “range of use” will decrease with less energy if you have some wind. From my experience the max distance for HW50 is 50meter. Like HW30 is 30meters. The other HW’s don’t follow this pattern :=)
I must mention that my barrel is smooth and “scratched”. So it has the reverse of the thread you usually have. It needs 4.52mm cal. pellets. JSB Exact 4.52mm is the best choice. So it does not cut the head of the pellet like a normal barrel. It has less energy loss on the distance as the “turbine effect” is not present. It was a common technique in Poland in the end of 90’s (as far as I remember) because there was a stupid law – you could buy smooth barrel airgun without energy limit with no special certificates but not a threaded barrel. Crazy. But of course as usually the Polish guys found a good solution for this 🙂
I compared two same energy HW50 at a long distance and the pellet drop in threaded barrel was much much bigger then scratched barrel. Very interesting it was. I mean it was very big difference.
Now the limit in PL is 17J, so it is relative friendly compared to German “F” (7.5J).
And so – at that time, companies producing air rifles needed to produce a smoothbore for the Polish market. Only Weihrauch and Diana did it very well. For example, Gamo was having big problems with accuracy. It was really crazy 🙂 Actually now I have one unique example of a barrel that has never been produced this way 😉 Scratched smoothbore.
tomek,
Wow! So you are an HW 50 guy? Well, oddly that was about the energy I was aiming for.
BB
I will find some old pictures of this equipment for you – or someone will do a new picture as my HW50 I forgot in summer in Poland. And it is not the record trigger – it is the MII version not adjustable record variation. Little hard but very fine working.
Yes, it was a big journey with this equipment. It has laminated black painted stock form FWB match rifle with additional mass at the front which I had to adapt for the system (the 7mm screw was a challenge, it is custom made! because of lenght – you can’t just buy it), it has sound silencer (7chambers) mounted using CO2 (cold-mounted – barrel was -100°F cold, silencer hot, not removable after mounting like this), the barrel is shortened to 28cm and smoothbore scratched (7 scratches with left turning, one revolution per 47cm which is 1 rev / 18.5inch), after scratching process it was fine-polished and it has at the last 3cm tightener caliber, how is it called? Choke? You know what I mean – this tighteening at the end of barrel is supposed to make the pellet left the barrel without any air leakage. It is important if there is not much pressure left but with this length not necessary. It is pretty “slow” turning barrel but extremely accurate. Never had springer accurate like this. It is almost not affecting the pellet, not comparable to any threaded barrel. The sound of flying pellet is just “pssst”. Before fine-polishing the fresh scratched barrel made the pellet noise like “rrrrruuuu”, that’s why I polished it. Then it has just a bright and clean flying pellet sound. It has custom spring with special cover to avoid the grease left the cylinder. It has custom seal and of course custom spring guide. And some special grease inside I don’t remember what it was. I take it after 6 months out of the box and it has “zero” where I left it. It is not easy to estimate how many times I shot it – I may only assume it is something between 50000 – 90000 shots.
After all strange things I done to her, the HW50 likes 9.5ftlbs the most. 🙂
Tomek, can you please explain the process of “scratching” a smoothbore. Is this done by the factory for the Polish market, or is this a project done by the individual owner? Also, does the polishing remove some of the “scratches”?
I am curious because it sounds like phenomenal accuracy at 50 meters from a spring piston airgun. I know from reading this blog that traditional airgun rifling is simply the same rate of twist as .22 rimfire rifles, but perhaps there is a better way? If true, imagine how the accuracy of a CO2 or PCP target rifle could be enhanced at a much lower cost because there would be insignificant recoil compared to the mildest springer. That would allow more aspiring target shooters a way into the sport.
Also I though it was cool how you explained the way the moderator was attached. Literally, super-cool. As in super-cool the barrel so it shrinks a bit and heat up the moderator so it expands a bit. Then when it all goes back to a “normal” temperature range, the moderator is immovable. I wish I could do that with scope mounts!
Roamin Greco – it is a phenomenal one.
IMG-20211221-WA0012.jpg
The process was done by one of the Polish airgun blog specialist. I believe it is done like a “drawn barrel” by using the special prepared tipp which makes this scratches along the barrel. It has 1:18.5inches spin. So it is a bit slower then usual airgun rifled barrel. Unfortunately I don’t have it at home – I would try to make a makro picture of the scratches. My parents will fail to do a picture like that :/ The scratches are hardly visible when looking through the barrel. Nevertheless it is enough guide to make the pellet spin. This HW 50 is special due to all modifications. Also a shortened barrel is veeery improving accuracy as it shortened the shot cycle and make the shorter barrel shake less during shot.
The moderator was attached not because I wanted it to be quiet. The barrel was too short to cock normaly not using so much force. It needed to be extended. And the best solution for accuracy was to make it as stable as possible. It was not possible to attach it in a room temperature. Only with big temperature delta it was, then the parts are just sealed as one. Just great. The guy was making miricles at that time. He had also special tools for everything. And the moderator blueing (oxidation) is just same as original HW… even after so many shots and years of using it.
THE ZERO is always ZERO 🙂
Tomek, I can’t reply to your last comment, below, so I came back up here. It would be great if you could find a link to the fellow that “scratches” the barrels, perhaps a website or a YouTube video, I would be interested to learn more about that. You know, since a lot of the pellets stability comes from the pellets shape, it could be that the pellets are sort of fighting to balance the torque from traditional rifling, and perhaps something a little gentler works better.
Roamin Greco – it is difficult to find it. At this time there was a bit conspiracy against stupid law. It was not offered like for everyone in some store or online, you could get the contact to the specialist while you were active in special blog, similar to this wonderful place. So actually I had something that was not 100% defined. Because scratched barrel was not rifled barrel 🙂 You know what I mean? This idea was actually working so good, that many people after the law was changed to “normal” were purchaising smooth-bore barrels to make it scrached. The smooth-barrels were pretty fast out of stock and not produced anymore. So this whole idea was gone because the riffled barrel is just OK as a standard. There was no need to overcome anything as you could just buy ready working product again.
It was done similar to as you would clean the barrel using washing rod except it had a special prepared cutter tip and was just pulled through and turned. The magic was to prepare this cutter tip to be hard enough and that precise.
The big difference was the lack of what we called “turbine effect”. Normal rifled barrel leaves patterns on the head and scirt of a pellet. Particullary patterns on the head when the pellet is flying fast and spinning generates more air resistance and the pellet is losing more energy. It is working as a very small turbine. So there was a difference on a long distance visible – much less pellet drop. But we are talking about 0.177 only, no experience with other cal.
Alone the smooth-bore barrel was pretty accurate. It was much more sensitive on pellet type then the rifled. And above 30m distance you could see why we need the pellet spinning.
Thank you, Tomek, for your explanation below about the “scratched barrels.” For some reason, I find that concept so fascinating.
Roamin thank you, it is indeed fascinating. From both points of view – technical and political 🙂 I mean it was a great technical engineering reaction to gov stupidity at this time. Mentioned stupidity is not much different now but a new tech solution is discovered.
I think it is not beeing introduced on a mass scale because it is not so universal as a standard rifled barrel. Also a new process and machining would be required. If something works for years why change it and get very similar effect with big effort. Nevertheless I’m glad and proud to have an example of a different point of view which I may proof works very fine. 🙂 I will never sell this black mamba 🙂
LOL! It sounds like all you should have done is get rid of the buzz.
And one may achieve that by using only the end cap from the Vortek kit and chucking the rest in the trash. Just a thought…
Tomek, please do not be offended, I just want to point out something in the spirit of being helpful. I think when you refer to a barrel being “threaded” you mean to say “rifled”. Rifling is the spiral ridges and grooves on the inside of a rifled barrel. A smooth bore does not have rifling. I think everyone understood your meaning, but I thought you would appreciate the correct terminology.
I am learning a lot from your comments. Thanks. Keep them coming.
Thank you Roamin! Oh my gosh! This is what I mean about the translation issues. The translator I sometimes use gave a wrong word for this. “Rifled” is what I was missing… so I just used first one E-dictionary gave me 🙂 This may be, because there is same word meaning the barrel is rifled as the screw has thread (this would be correct I hope???) in both German and Polish I translate from. Hahaha 🙂
PLEASE ALWAYS correct my wording and grammar, it is the only way I can learn American 🙂 Thank you Roamin Greco. 🙂 BTW I never get offended, even if someone is really trying, it is not my style 🙂
I noticed again how easy it is to write something totaly “random” in a language you don’t own 100%. Still I try to not use any translators because they cause even more trouble. Sometimes the translated single word is not used in the way you think it is.
Something funny happened in German: it is usual that the german words sometimes are just stick togheter and mean just something which is build up etc. from the other things. Like torque fluctuation is “die Drehmomentungleichförmigkeit”. Instead of “lawn mower” (=Rasenmäher) I was using the combination “grass shaver” (=Grassrasierer) 🙂 before someone told me that. But everyone could understand what I mean 🙂
Totally agree and understand. The same thing happens to me when I write to my relatives in Greece. I struggle sometimes to know what the “right” word is. Don’t worry, enough of us here will gently guide you. Practicing your writing helps a lot. You are doing very well.
And yes, screws, bolts, and nuts have threads. But so do needles. Isn’t English fun?
Yes, definately it is funny as long as you don’t talk to mother in law on a big family party like “dear mother from hell, I hope you are a horse” 🙂
There is a word for the rifled barrel in German also used “gezogener Lauf”. Great, the proposed translation is “drawn barrel”. Pyyyylllliiiiiiizzzz….
tomek,
That “drawn barrel” makes a lot of sense because it was probably rifled by drawing a hard carbide button (a tool that is used to rifle barrels) through the bore.
BB
BB – I thought the same but it does not just sounds “right” – drawn barrel 🙂 I will from now on stick to “rifled”.
I never talked to my mother in law like that. Only thought it!
Fred from the Demokratik Peeples Republik of NJ now happily in Georgia (with NO mother-in-law!)
This is just my random observation, and it should not be taken as gospel, but it seems to me the “optimum” power level for a sproinger is in the 12 FPE range. When you start to get above that, many sproingers develop a harsh firing cycle. The accuracy of a sproinger also tends to deteriorate above that level.
It can also start taking a considerable effort to cock. When I see a dude taking two hands and grunting to cock a sproinger, that is a little bit too much. It will not be fun to shoot, and it will take some incredible effort and concentration to hit anything. No thank you. I am too lazy for that.
Something else I have noticed about those powerful sproingers is they often are quite heavy. That is one quick and dirty way that many manufacturers dampen some of that recoiling. If it has a metal coiled sproing, you are also likely to have that sproinger trying to twist to the left or right, depending on the twist of the sproing. That issue can be overcome, but that also requires more engineering and more complicated assemblies, which increase cost.
Yeah, yeah, yeah, go with a gas sproing and you do not have that twist issue. You also have a smoother, quicker shot cycle, until it reaches the end. Here you are trying to hold that sproinger as loosely as you can and unless it weighs in at close to a ton, that thing is going to slap you side the head. Maybe I am exaggerating the weight a little bit, but you know what I am talking about. Now if I had a gas sproing I could tune down and/or rebuild, I might go for it.
RidgeRunner,
Maybe a manufacturer will get smart and make a just right powered gas spring rifle for the youth with spacers for adult sizing. Then again we can always hope that Vortek gets their gas spring design ironed out. Maybe they could make it a drop in replacement but available at various energy levels instead of being adjustable.
Siraniko
Siraniko,
Ah, but a tunable gas sproing. Theoben are adjustable, if you can get them. The Hatsan Vortex used to be adjustable. I do not know if they still are.
There are different power levels for gas sproings, but we Americans always want the maximum.
RidgeRunner,
So far all the gas springs that are adjustable leak sooner than later. I’d rather have a fixed power gas spring that I’m willing to live with rather than an adjustable gas spring that will fail too soon. The next best thing would be an easily repaired gas spring using kits from the manufacturer.
Siraniko
I would most definitely want to be able to rebuild it.
I have never shot a gas sproinger that I liked. They are always too powerful and they either weigh a ton or they slap you like a mule.
If I am not mistaken, the Theoben is rebuildable. Apparently the Hatsan adjustable gas sproing did not survive long. You do not hear of it anymore.
RR
Merry Christmas!
The ASP20 may be an exception to this theory. It comes in at around 20 foot pounds of energy with good accuracy and mild head slap.
Deck
Decksniper, just for fun, I found a picture of you after you tuned your ASP using your rope-a-dope “mild head slap” method.
Roamin
That’s me alright.
Deck
LOL! Sorry, buddy. Between you and RidgeRunner, I couldn’t get the image out of my head. Once I found a pic of Rocky, I just couldn’t help myself. I hope you got a chuckle out of it.
Deck,
An awful lot of engineering went into that air rifle. Sig Sauer probably lost on that bet. I also seem to recall that air rifle weighs in right hefty. Air Arms has also spent a lot of time and money on sproingers. They are also not feather weights either.
RidgeRunner – 12FPE is a max energy limit in many countries (without any special FAC permission certificate etc.). Many springers are designed to have the best working point around this energy level.
There is some general rule about how much energy you will get from the size of the compression chamber. For the 4.5 caliber, the air rifles obtain on average 0.3-0.35 J of energy from 1 cm3 of the compression chamber.
The air rifle then works pleasantly and is not strained. Limit values for
caliber 4.5 is 0.4J from 1cm3, and for caliber 5.5 it is 0.5J from 1cm3. This would be a max value. Example table for some compression chambers:
Baikal IŻ 38 – 25mm x 57mm ——————28,0 cm3
Slavia 631 – 25mm x 62mm ——————–30,4 cm3 cal. 4.5mm optimal 9J, max. 12J
China QB-36/1 i QB-36/2 – 26mm x 65mm —34,5 cm3 cal 4.5mm optimal10,5J , max 14J
Bajkał MP512 – 25mm x 82mm —————-40,2 cm3
Łucznik – 28mm x 70mm ——————–43,0 cm3
HW 77/97 – 26mm x 82mm ——————–43,5 cm3
AA TX/PP – 25mm x 100mm ——————-49,0 cm3
Gamo Hunter – 25mm x 100 mm ————–49,0 cm3
Hatsan 55 – 27mm x 96mm ——————–55,0 cm3 cal 4.5mm opt. 17J , max 22J
Diana 48-54 – 28mm x 100mm —————-61,5 cm3
Diana 350 – 28mm x 115mm ——————70,7 cm3
Gamo 1250 – 29mm x 118mm —————- 77,9 cm3
Bajkał MP513 – 28mm x 137mm —————84,3cm3
Patriot 31- mm x 112mm ———————-84,5 cm3 cal 4.5mm opt. 27J , max. 34J
Of course the calculation may vary depending on the efficiency etc. But it may help you to estimate where is the optimum load and corresponding optimal energy of your equipment. You just need to find out how big is the volume of air you will compress.
Tomek,
Formulas and such can get you withing the ballpark, but there are always little nuances that are overlooked in the formulations that can have an effect. It still comes down to testing and tweeking.
I am indeed quite fortunate to live in the USA as I do not have the restrictions on air rifles as is imposed in other parts of the world. It allows me more room for experimentation without concerns of arrest.
RidgeRunner – totally agree. This is just experimental “what you may expect” formula. It may be totally different in some special case. I found it good for explaining that the goal to reach the maximum energy is not optimal regarding accuracy and shot behavior, so it is leading to less “fun to shoot”. And it defines approx. where the max-end may be.
I also learned that the short and smooth shot cycle is better with lighter piston. But then the system will not like heavier pellets – means the energy decreases with heavier pellet. Increasing the mass of the piston make the cycle slower and in general reduces a bit the energy but it better performs with heavy pellets. Always some compromise. It is good to understand where the center of the compromise might be to just use equipment on its optimum.
B.B.
I am a HW 50 guy! I have two in .177, one in .20, and one in .22. The reason you find the cocking difficult is because of the compound linkage of the cocking arm. However, you forget that you are only cocking the gun between 90-110 degree arc. Most single linkage airguns need a 130-150 degree arc. How is the cardboard protractor coming along?
My 2 HW 50’s in .177 are both set up for FT Hunter Class. They shoot at around 13 fpe.
I would be most annoyed at the “forward surge”, that is the problem!
I suggest you continue to “eat your Wheaties” and be thankful that you only need to cock the gun a shorter distance than other guns.
-Yogi
PS please try pellets, preferably JSB’s or AA’s in the 4.52 head size.
PPS make sure that the joining rivet in the cocking linkage is not binding and that all cocking levers are straight.
Yogi,
I will probably have another go at accuracy, but not until I get that washer out of there. When I do I’ll try JSB and Air Arms pellets.
BB
BB,
Please remember to have a look and probably clean the trigger assembly of excess grease while you have it apart.
Siraniko
Siraniko,
I will LOOK at the trigger, but I;’n not touching it, because it’s as good a a Rekord can get.
BB
I can only tell you BB that the 4.52mm Exact from JSB will be very probably your choice number one 🙂
BB, It would be nice to have a scoring device as accurate as the guns that shoot the groups. Probably too expensive. Maybe a dome style is more accurate, but doesn’t score well because of the way it cuts the paper. An affordable, adjustable gas spring that retro fits many spring guns would be a new thing, at least at lower power levels, but those might not sell well.
I will try some JSB wadcutters.
Rob
1stblue, I discovered that if I take a small ball of duct seal, say 1″ diameter, rolled out into a thin pancake (1/16″ thick), and press that between my target paper and the cardboard backer, I get wadcutter-like holes. It’s tedious, but if you are shooting for purposes of testing, it works.
Here it is, my black mamba HW50 full custom:
https://zapodaj.net/b3f5de3fd8bee.jpg.html
IMG-20211221-WA0012.jpg
It has some scratches but still is shining almost like a new customized 🙂
Hope the picture will be visible. The best picture I could get from parents operating smart phone. I forgot this black mamba in Poland and will not risk to ship it back. Need to take it with me. Unfortunately we are not going for Xmass this year back to PL…
Nice! I never would have guessed that there is an HW 50 at the heart of that.
If I had to name that gun it would be Knight Industries 5000. It would talk and call you Michael.
Hahahaha 🙂
Almost 5kg with a scope like 6-24 x 42. Too heavy :/ The weight balance is pretty good. Needed to add some weight at the front of the stock. It is very similar to the last FWB stock BB has tested. I bought it painted silver… so I re-paint it black as it was painted really good. Going back to original laminate would might have been very difficult.
Add some LED lights that flash in a line from side to side, Knight Rider! It may hypnotize the starlings into sitting still for a second or two. KaPow!
tomek
Good looking gun.
Thank you Gunfun1 🙂 If someone shot once the FWB600 he knows the feeling. This stock is just like a extension of your body. It makes miracles with this system.
tomek
Miracles are nice. 🙂
BB,
“Well, I like the size, smooth shooting, accuracy and trigger of the HW 50S. I dislike the heavy cocking effort.”
It almost sounds like you’re looking for a HW30S in an HW50S-sized stock. I wonder if a cocking aid might help, but obviously, you lose a bit of the compactness by adding length. It looks like Weihrauch makes both muzzle brakes and moderators that fit both the HW50S and HW30S. Maybe those would be worth a try as well?
Nathan
To make this thing easier to cock you can reduce the load (i.e. remove the spacer washer, start cutting coils off the spring) or increase the length of the lever (might include a cocking aid like my BSA Scorpion or fitting a muzzle brake although this may or may not eliminate a peep or open sight option). Before you change the things you like…it’s accuracy and performance…to reduce the cocking effort, consider changing the leverage?
Motorman
St. Louis, MO
BB
When cocking your rifle is a bump needed at the start?
If not, somehow your rifle is different from mine. But if a bump is required now it will go away with use, at least mine did and it made a big difference for the better. Cocking is no problem and I don’t have your strength.
Deck
Deck,
Yes, I do have to bump the barrel to open it.
BB
BB
My HW50S has thousands of shots now. While not as easy as cocking my HW30S, it takes little effort. A teen aged girl could enjoy a plinking session without cocking problems. But if bumping is required it upsets the cocking rhythm. You don’t have time to shoot it enough to break in the barrel lock. Hope you know another way to loosen her.
Deck
BB
I know you are going back to this system and will tune it again. Just something I used to implement during the zero check if possible: the rubber O-ring or similar soft mechanical spring decoupling. It is not always possible to implement as you need the washer on the bottom of the spring to make this “trick 19” working. I don’t know if you already tried it out. In some cases it brought a big vibration reduction, mostly high frequency pitch and buzz portion. It is just a sort of muffler, it brakes the acoustical vibration impedance of the structure, decouples and absorbs some high frequency energy. The HW50 system is buzzling and it might help a bit. I hope you can see the picture under the link attached, it is a different system example.
Oringpodsprezyna.JPG
https://zapodaj.net/71fb454744cd6.jpg.html