The HW 50S breakbarrel from Weihrauch.
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6
Part 7
Part 8
Part 9
Part 10
This report covers:
- What did Vortek say?
- If only…
- Disassemble the rifle
- A final comment
- Relax the mainspring
- Cut off mainspring coils
- Install mainspring
- Thoughts before testing
- Summary
Put on the coffee pot and grab a couple of your favorite doughnuts or crullers because this one will make your day! You may even want to call in sick or take a personal day for this one!
Today we dive into the HW 50S rifle and adjust the low-power Vortek PG4-Steel tune. First, let me tell you what I did last Thursday. While you readers ran around like wild people, chanting epithets against Vortek, I talked to Tom Gore, the owner, and asked him to read the blog. He did and told me the mainspring wire diameter in the kit I installed was correct, but the preload of two inches that he read in the comments was too much. So, reader Michael, here comes the answer to your question,
“Tom,
On the subject of amount of preload vs thickness of wire, would you say that in general the wire thickness contributes more to the power of the spring? Obviously coil diameter, which would be a factor in general, is not a variable here, right? (The composition of the steel probably makes a huge difference.)
Years ago I purchased a modded HW77. What attracted me to it was that the seller detuned it a bit with a new HW50 spring. It had a smooth shooting behavior last I tried it, and it is the easiest cocking underlever I’ve ever shot, by far. At the time I did not yet have a TX200, but my thought was that my HW77 probably was like a slightly weak TX with much easier cocking. I should dig it out sometime this summer, although usually either early heat, oppressive humidity, rain or Canadian smoke has prevented me from going out more than a few times.
Michael”
I answered Michael thus,
“Michael,
Your question is one I have long pondered. I know that if the preload is decreased, the power drops a little and the cocking becomes easier. If the spring wire diameter decreases, the power drops quickly. The steel alloy makes a huge difference in power.
So yes, no and I don’t know.
BB”
What did Vortek say?
This is what Tom Gore told me. He doesn’t get much call for the lower-powered kit from the USA (no kidding!). Nearly all the demand for that kit comes from Europe. Because of that, his kits have the correct spring wire (see, shootski? Now aren’t you glad you didn’t fly off the handle?) but the overall length of the spring could be too long. He went into his warehouse and checked several kits and they all had the correct wire in their mainsprings.
He said he would send me out a lower-powered kit that met my requirements that same day or I could do what he was going to do — clip off a couple coils from the mainspring in my kit.
If only…
If only you readers had told me to clip off coils! This whole mess could have been avoided!
Calm down, readers Yogi, Roamin Greco, Siraniko, RidgeRunner, Frank Balistreri, and shootski, I’m just kidding. You guys did tell me what to do and several of you said to clip coils. I knew to do that, but I wanted to hear what the manufacturer said. He said two inches of preload was too much for the kit to deliver lower power. He told me to clip off two coils, which would remove about 20 mm from the spring length, so that’s what I decided to do. Why wait on shipping if that’s the best answer? So that’s what we’re going to do today.
Disassemble the rifle
With the barreled action out of the stock and in the mainspring compressor I began disassembly. Yogi, you asked about what I said last time in the Stop here! paragraphs, so this is for you.
Like you, I have difficulty disassembling Weihrauch air rifles that have the 4 locking tabs holding the back block against mainspring tension. I told you what to do in Part 10, and today I will show you step-by-step in greater detail. If you and I are talking about this there are plenty of guys having the same problem.
First, put some tension on the back block to take spring tension off those tabs. You won’t see anything move when you do this and the amount of tension is very important.
Look at the special tool I made from a nail to push those tabs out.
My Weihrauch tab pusher-outer tool.
Now let me show you how that tool is used. Remember, I also said to insert a pin punch through the holes in the spring tube where the trigger pins were. That enables you to move the back block slightly as you push on the backs of the tabs. I would say 75 percent of the success is due to the tension on the back block and 25 percent is due wiggling the pin punch to align the locking tab holes.
This shows how to push out the locking tabs with the pusher tool. The secret to this is a combination of putting just the right amount of tension on the back block with the mainspring compressor and also wiggling the back block with the pin punch through the trigger crosspin holes.
When you get everything right the locking tabs can’t remain in their holes. They come out easily. On a new rifle they are harder to get out the first couple of times, but do what I have suggested and they will come out. One additional secret is to lever the pusher tool as you push each tabs out. Sometimes I find putting a screwdriver blade behind the pusher tool makes it easier to make it lever.
Here the locking tab is almost completely out. Sorry about the focus, but I was taking pictures as I was working on the gun and my hands were greasy.
After the tab is out on one side, insert a pin punch through the hole and push out the tab on the other side.
A thin pin punch drifts out the tab on the other side.
A final comment
One last comment about the 4 tabs. They may not all come loose at the same time. The trick is to try to push all 4 of them out and when one cooperates, punch out the tab on the other side as shown above then go to work on the last two tabs. You may find that you have to relax or increase the tension on the back block ever-so-slightly for the other two tabs to come loose. And keep jiggling the back block with that other pin punch.
Relax the mainspring
When all 4 tabs are removed, rotate the back block to get the one back block tab out of the notch in the spring tube. Then relax the mainspring. When I did this, the back block had moved out by about 2-inches. That is how much preload is on the kit that was initially installed.
This is how much preload was on the mainspring as initially installed.
Cut off mainspring coils
Now I removed the mainspring from the spring tube. Then I had to get the top hat out of the piston end of the mainspring. I used a screwdriver to pry out the top hat.
The top hat.
Use a screwdriver to pry the top hat out of the mainspring. Go slow with this to not damage the top hat. It will come out, but the spring holds it tight! Do not grab the top hat with pliers; just slowly pry with a screwdriver.
The top hat is out. In this view you can see the separate synthetic washer the spring presses against.
I put the mainspring in a vise and cut off two coils with a Dremel tool.
I cut off two coils with a Dremel tool cutoff wheel.
Two spring coils were removed.
After cutting off the spring I dressed the end of the spring with the sides of the cutoff wheel to remove all sharp edges left by the cut. I did not grind the end of the spring flat because the synthetic washer on the top hat takes care of that for me.
Install mainspring
When this work was finished I cleaned and relubricated the mainspring with the red grease from the kit. There was still enough left for the job in the small container Vortek sent. Then I inserted the spring back into the piston and measured the new pretension.
A full half inch of pretension has been removed from the mainspring by cutting off two coils.
Assemble the action
I now assembled the action and installed it in the stock. Testing was next.
Thoughts before testing
Because I am doing the work this way by removing coils instead of just installing a kit and calling it a day, I can stop wherever I want. Any time I want I can remove more of the mainspring. But I can’t put any of it back, so I have to go slow. This means I don’t have to automatically go down to a 7.5 foot-pound power limit if I don’t want to. That much energy would be the Air Arms 7.33-grain Falcon pellet leaving the muzzle at 678.74 f.p.s.
If I want a little more power I can have it. What I’m looking for is an HW 50S that isn’t hard to cock. So, what has the work I have just done produced? Well, the Falcon pellet now averages 815 f.p.s. That is a hair faster than the 810 f.p.s. the factory rifle puts out. At that speed the Falcon pellet puts out 10.81 foot-pounds. I know from testing that other pellets will be slower and have less power but this is nice.
The velocity low was 810 and the high was 820. That’s a 10 f.p.s. spread for 10 shots. I’ll take it.
The reason I sound like I’m smiling is because I am. This rifle now cocks easily and shoots dead smooth! The cocking effort is a measured 27 pounds — a 5-pound decrease from the factory and also the same decrease from the way it cocked when this kit was first installed. It’s now easy for me and I’ll take it.
Summary
This is a happy ending and I like happy endings. But we aren’t done. This rifle still wears it’s new-style stock that rules out the use of open sights for me, so on THIS rifle I will mount a scope! This will be the scoped rifle many of you readers wanted my HW 30S to be. I’ll scope it and test accuracy next.
“This rifle now cocks easily and shoots dead smooth!”
BB,
It doesn’t get any better than that! (And kudos to Tom Gore of Vortek =>)
I was so happy to read this report; it sounds like you now have a rifle that is right at its sweet spot…cool. 🙂
I look forward to the accuracy testing.
Blessings to you,
dave
Dave,
It’s coming.
BB
Cool 🙂
B.B.
Thanks for the two tips to remove the blocks. Slightly compress the spring and insert something in the “pin hole” and jiggle.
Jiggle is something I am good at!
Thanks for the tips,
-Yogi
PS I already have a similar extraction tool that a buddy who knew I was going down this road gave me.
Yogi,
If you ever do this please let us know how it works for you.
BB
Tom,
All I can say is Wow! How much a difference those 2 coils can make from a rifle that you struggled with to a rifle that you are grinning while shooting.
Siraniko
BB
Really fun reading today. You likely achieved your objective sooner than you or any of us expected except maybe Tom Gore. Hoping accuracy is as good as I’m predicting.
Deck
BB
My HW50S is as accurate as my HW30S. I am expecting yours to be also.
Deck
FM lacks the courage, tools and skills to “tame the beasts” as Tom and many of you are able to do and do so. That’s why FM has tried to choose well and leave well enough alone when it comes to his airguns. The hope is they will need no attention yours truly can’t provide until after HIS mainspring gives out.
B.B.,
I have Ice Water running in my veins today. I hope to keep it flowing just as cold for tomorrow.
Tom Gore appears to be a standup guy with no Inconvenient Truths to share. If when/IF the day comes that i need to replace a Gas Spring on my SIG SSG ASP20’s I will certainly make Vortek one of the resources for Gas Spring information or potential replacement source.
You may want to see if he has any ideas for your ASP20 if it really needs a replacement Gas Spring.
shootski
PS: My Right eye Cataracts gets removed tomorrow and a new lens tomorrow; i will be the 2×$6,000.00+ Man after that. I can stop shooting Left all the time as soon as it heals. God willing.
Prayers for your surgeon skills as well as your speedy recovery.
At some point I would love chat you up about your experience shooting your DAQs. Particularly interested in whether you have any .25 calibers.
I have found Dennis’s barrels remarkably accurate myself.
Frank Balistreri,
I replied but you probably didn’t get a notification.: /blog/2023/07/hw-50s-part-ten/#comment-505864
DAQ barrels are accurate within their intended usage.
With the amount of power they unleash with each shot anything under 2 MOA is outstanding precision. Free floating the barrels helps get smaller groups but presents issues for a hunting arm in the field. My repeatable first shot Performance (with barrel bands in place) is typically better than groups shot without a tether or accurately refilling for every shot. Since these DAQs are hunting arms expecting better groups, as some do, is in my opinion unwarranted and verges on ignorant product bashing.
shootski
Shootski,
I worded the question the way I did
Because I was probing for whether or not this is common knowledge.
Back before my pain level went sky high and my core strength became an issue….. All three of my 25 caliber daqs….. Proved capable even in my hands untethered of five shot groups at 50 yards of sub MOA accuracy!!
All this in the 940-970 FPS range
With JSB exact jumbos. I tested
Some crazy jsb hollow points where the hollow point looks like a torx bolt head…… Very similar results.
Imagine the look on my face when my outlaw pistol action in a carbine stock printed a five shot hole right around 3/8 of an inch overall!
I will go and look for your other reply now. To your health , my friend.
PS. I just read about your enviable stable of Dennis’s work!
I duff my cap to you sir.
I had my air needs met,….. By a shoe box compressor from Lloyd Sykes. In an unfortunate moment of unsupervised operation the 4300 PSI shut off
Failed. It broke an armature spindle off the drive….. Which I reassembled with JB weld.
Unfortunately to this day the bleed valve will not seal. So I’m making HPA but can’t get it where it belongs. As my health went and my frustration Rose,
Plus all three of my tanks are beyond hydro dates….. Through lack of preparedness I find myself with not even a hand pump.
Shootski
I’m sure she is,, but good luck anyway.
Ed
Ed,
Thank you!
shootski
Shootski
Praying for you, the surgeon and anyone involved in the procedure. Risks are low but you can’t have too many people praying for your successful outcome. I know because I am a recipient.
Deck
Deck,
So true.
Thank you!
shootski
Piece of cake!
You should be shooting before the end of the week. Both eyes at once?
What type of lenses are you getting, ie what focal length?
Everybody who has it done says they wish they had done it sooner.
It will be my fate soon enough, I just do not know what focal length lenses to get. I DO NOT want to mess up my shooting.
-Y
Yogi,
I had my Left eye done in December and the very conservative military medicine system didn’t want to do my other eye since it was correctable to 20/20. They however corrected the Left to 20/15 or better and that causes(ed) all manner of vision issues with shooting with both eyes open. I am retired but still eligible and qualified to be recalled to active duty (probably as a flight instructor) if the balloon goes up.
So they have agreed they need to do my Right eye tomorrow.
After much discussion the lenses are for distance vision but also do well at intermediate (as close as 30cm) distances. I will use reading lenses for fine close work. The Left eye is now able to see front iron sights on both rifles and pistols (at arms length) easily with no correction the rear sight looks no different than before. Scopes, Prism, Reflex and Binoculars have been no problem and should only get better once the Right eye has healed since it is supposed to fix an existing very slight astigmatism as well.
When you have yours done the measurement exam is crucial to getting the lens power and other stuff right pre op and then the month of eye drops to speed healing and avoid INFECTION post op.
Just be certain to fully discuss your needs with your Opthalmologist; i was lucky that all of mine have been young and qualified on newest procedure(s) as well as qualified pistol and rifle shooters.
hth
shootski
https://www.jnjvisionpro.com/products/tecnis-eyhance
Your ophthalmologist is likely board certified and you will do just fine. I had mine done about two years ago without incident. You will be slightly “snowed” by anesthesia and then drops in the eyes. The procedure is very, very quick. You will probably “see” some red flashes of light from the laser-measuring of your eyes.
I opted for the set DISTANCE vision as I have been used to progressive lenses for years. I figured, FOR ME, that would be the easiest thing to get used to, and it has been. Options were for a progressive lens implant! Given my cycling addiction and working to keep my and my daughter’s homes and lawns in order, wearing polycarbonate lenses is a good protection.
IN the last month, I had YAG laser surgery to remove PCO, Post-Capsular Opacification, where a one or two cell thick membrane grows across the pupilary opening. This happens in many patients and is easily removed by the YAG laser in under a minute! The YAG obliterates the unwanted tissue and is permanent. Slight change to the prescription thereafter. The PCO may or may not happen following cataract surgery and pseudophakia (the lens implant).
The ONLY negative in all this, FOR ME, is the onset of Dry Eye that is easily countered with drops. Sustaine Dry Eye Drops are just great at keeping the eyes moisturized and the lids moving without damage to the eye surface.
In other words, there is life after cataracts and PCO! In my case, not necessarily yours, the distance lens with the progressive eye glasses was perfect. I’m so used to canting my head about for the sweet spot when shooting that therre was little to relearn with the exception of pistol shooting.
I finally put 1 power pistol scopes on my RWS and Beeman and Hatsan air pistols. I just was having too much difficulty with the short sight radius on the pistols. The 1 power pistol “scopes” flattened the aim point to the cross of the reticles and that ended the squinting and unending seeking of a pistol hold distance from my eyes. Maybe the scope as 1.5 power, now that I think about it? Whatever it was and is, the point is not magnification but eliminating the problem with iron sights two points of reference post-cataract surgery.
The main thing is to maintain a good rapport and appointments with your optical professionals. Locally, we have a optical group that has its own complex and does a land office business with patients in the area. That’s, in this case, what one wants, a place that does the cataract and other eye surgeries DAILY. The procedures are like thin oil through a funnel with the only drawback being the stack up in the waiting room; my local provider is REALLY GOOD AT WHAT THEY DO AND THEY DO IT DAILY. They have seen it all and done it all.
Good luck to you. Oh, and as impossible as it sounds, RELAX! It’s hard to think of someone operating on your EYES without your toes curling up! I mean, IT”S MY EYES, DARN IT. But…if you are going to a service that does this every single day with a broad and busy clientele, with board certified doctors and nurses, you will have great results. Remember, they get paid by doing it right!
LFrank,
Spoke with my Anesthesiologist this morning.
I will only be using a topical and a local in the eye with no amnesiac. I did the same for the Left eye procedure in December with no issues.
SERE School back in the 1970’s got me to face/understand my personal limits. It was a most liberating experience to learn one’s limits; one experience I would however not entertain doing a second time!
Thank you for your knowledgeable reply and sharing your personal experience. I think for all us older shooters it is an important procedure to NOT AVOID out of fear!
shootski
Healing prayers on the way, went thru one cataract surgery already. Have no fear, all will be well and you will continue to be shooting shootski in no time.
FawltyManuel,
Thank you for the prayers!
I’m lucky that the Left eye in December went so well.
I certainly hope and pray the Right eye is at least as good. I cross bridges one at a time and maybe have flown under one or two…
It will be as the Good Lord wants it to be.
Thank you again,
shootski
Shootski,
Praying for a successful cataract surgery. May your vision recover uneventfully.
Siraniko
Siraniko,
Thank you for your wishes as well as your prayers.
shootski
shootski, I am praying all goes well for you tomorrow as well as for speedy healing! 🙂
Nice job Tom, and yes, I can almost see your smile.
This type of tuning is one of the reasons I prefer coil springs over gas rams. The only ‘fancy’ tools you used where a bent nail and a Dremel with a cutting wheel. Well done!
I know that gas rams can be made so that the pressure inside can be changed by the user, allowing for similar tuning results. However, when manufacturing cost and liability considerations come into the equation I doubt that this technology will see the light of day, particularly in medium priced guns. Just my opinion.
Henry
The HW90 is set up to allow the user to adjust the pressure of the gas spring. The pressure limit is 26 bar.
B.B.
Any other special tricks? Wondering if you do anything to relieve the edges of the open cut-outs? On one occasion, when installing a new piston seal, I nicked the edges of the seal. Needless to say, I needed to take that HW 50 down again and install a new Vortek seal. The nicked Aussie seal lasted about 100 pellets before I lost major power.
-Y
Yogi,
I checked for those way back when I first tuned the rifle. Didn’t have any.
BB
Tom,
I wonder if I am the only one that finds it hilarious….. That you have the self-professed woodworking skills of an angry rabid beaver, I’m paraphrasing of course….. But give you a bent nail and you become a mechanical sorcerer!!
Ain’t Life funny?!
BB,
A few questions here:
– So, Vortek sent you the wrong spring, right?
– Now, as you had to clip off a couple of inches from the Vortek spring, couldn’t you have simply done the same on the original OEM 50S spring? Why bother with Vortek?
– hihihi could see the sights on his 50S but not on his 30S – both with the new stock. Have you checked if you could see the sights on the 50S with the new ‘sporter’ stock before giving up on the iron sights? With all due respect, wouldn’t it be better if you ordered a custom stock for the 50S instead of the 30S – as the old style stock has fixed the issue on the 30S anyway?
– Again, with all due respect, if you scope the 50S, then it cannot steal the throne from the 27. You already have a great go to airgun with scope, TX200 with the Maccari kit. Why cannot that TX200 be your go to ‘scoped’ springer?
– The beauty of the 27 was the fact that it was your favorite out of the box. Perhaps, an R7 or a 30S Deluxe could do that out of the box as well – after some factory OEM spring lubing? They have the old style stocks after all.
– If cutting a few inches from springs is in the picture, then maybe an R9 / HW95 might steal the throne from the 27 as well. Isn’t the size / weight of HW95 is closest to Diana 27, compared to HW30S & 50S? Also, 95’s cocking mechanism might require lighter cocking effort with the 12FT/LB PG4 tune-kit for HW95/98. Installing that kit on a 95 and clipping off necessary amount of inches from the spring to achieve the goal may do the trick. You might end up with a bit more power than 7.5ft/lb10J, but with even lighter cocking effort and smoother operation. Also, the heavier weight of 95 might reduce the recoil.
Fish
Fish,
You need to read the reports and understand what the Vortek kit does — how it removes all vibration.
BB
BB,
I see what you mean. So, Vortek is not only about making the power lower or higher. It’s also about its added value, like no twang, smoother operation and etc… – regardless of any change in the power. Well then, of course, by all means, include the Vortek kits in the exploration of the new favorite. This satisfies most of my head-scratching – and let’s forget about the 95…
One question still begs for an answer though: Why not ordering a custom stock for the 50S to enjoy its perfect sights? You know, to give the throne to the 50S you’ve got to shoot it using the iron sights; a scoped springer ‘cannot’ replace the 27.
Fish
Fish,
Why not a custom stock for this rifle? Mostly because I want ti use it with a scope but also because I’m not made of money.
BB
You also must be made out of the right kind of money, BB. 😉
BB,
I think we have a winner then, HW30S with the PG3 SHO kit and old style stock. Just my opinion.
R7 comes with the old style stock; at least, the photos say so. Hopefully, it’ll remain in that outfit for many years to come. There is the 30S ‘Deluxe’ version as well. Deluxe is cheaper, but R7 is ambidextrous. After reading your 30S report, installing the PG3 SHO kit is not intimidating even for me, a guy who has never done such work.
I wish I had known what you’ve thought me with this blog during the time I was enjoying my dad’s 27. What I remember vividly is that it was very accurate. But I had never paid attention to any other things, like twangs or what not. I cannot wait to plink with it again; I think I’ll be very critical.
That reminds me. I better call my dad. It’s been a while.
Fish
Fish,
Call your dad!
I wish i was still able to call my dad.
It is a strange and at the same time wonderful thing to become the Patriarch of the family.
I hope i be will able to continue to not mess up the task all to badly.
call your dad… don’t wait.
shootski
Shootski,
That’s good advice. I too wish I were in a position to heed it.
Good luck with the surgery today. We are praying for you!
Wish I could call my Dad. It’s been 39 years since I lost him. I’d make a considerable sacrifice to spend a Saturday afternoon just talking to him over a kitchen table somewhere.
Motorman
Eastern MO
Motorman,
I can only agree!
I try to talk with my son as often as is reasonable and also my two grandsons.
I want them to never regret not having had the chance some day down the road
Social media is okay but no substitute for face to face or side by side conversations; even over the shoulder in a canoe or a double kayak.
Priceless time!
shootski
BB,
There’s a Canadian guy called Dave Hoffman that has a website with nice little reviews of the main HW models.
Here’s part of what he had to say about the HW50S: “This HW50S was by far and away the roughest cocking, least pleasant gun to shoot out of the box I have yet experienced. Straight out of the box, I was convinced something had to be wrong, as the gun sounded like it was eating itself. It was catching and grinding so much during the cocking stroke that I would periodically have to cock it with both arms to push it through a very unhealthy feeling and sounding loading cycle.”
Doesn’t that sound like the cocking arm is galling the cylinder?
He went on to say that after 1500 shots the gun smoothened out (cocking arm finally wore a channel in the cylinder face?)
I’d ask him to field strip the rifle and examine it, but he doesn’t allow comments on his website.
I’ve heard of the HW50 galling issue a couple of times elsewhere and wonder if it’s a common problem, or just confined to earlier versions of the model.
Hi Tom,
I have bought a HW50S last year and now since a couple of months have a scope on it. The scope actually has a focus at the front. At the range, they tell me to set this to when the reticle is exactly in focus. The problem(?) I am having is that the reticle is sharp over a larger turning range (or black). The only thing that I see that might change is that the line becomes a little broader. I know that my eyes are really great and probably can focus themselves a lot so it might correct a lot over the sharper range. Perhaps I have to try to relax my eyes muscles and then find the correct spot, but it is not easy too. Do you have any ideas perhaps or I’m doing something wrong?
Kind regards,
Dekolta
Dekolta,
Welcome to the blog.
Wow! If I understand you correctly whoever is advising you on that scope doesn’t know what they are talking about.
The PARALLAX adjustment on the objective bell IS NOT a focus adjustment!!! It’s for adjusting the parallax of the optics.
To adjust your scope, first look at a wall that’s an even bright color. Bring the eyepiece up to your eye and turn it until the reticle is in sharp focus. Only look through the scope for a couple seconds each time that you do this because your brain will adjust the focus for you if you look longer. The only point of this is to get the reticle into sharp focus. After it’s adjusted it will remain there all the time, regardless of how the parallax is adjusted.
Now, pick out something to look at (a “target”) some distance from you (at least as far as the scope’s minimum parallax adjusting distance engraved on the adjustment bell). Turn the parallax bell until the target comes into sharp focus. The object will come into focus at a distance on the adjustment bell that’s different than what’s engraved. For example, maybe the object is 25 yards away, but when it’s in sharp focus the parallax bell will say 18 yards.
Now the scope is parallax adjusted for that distance and your cheek weld will be lthe least sensitive that you can make it.
If this sounds confusing, tell me and I will direct you to a number of reports on adjusting scopes I have written over the years.
BB
Hi Tom,
Thanks for the quick answer. I think I’m actually the one that confuses things as I called it ‘focus at the front’, but what I mean is closest to the eye. I guess I should call that the rear.
My eyes actually focus really quickly and since I was a child it also came out of tests (as I got headaches a lot). I think trying to relax my eyes and then looking through the scope works the best. But my eyes were very tired just now (by all the focusing itself) so I’ll try again tomorrow (it gets dark here also now).
What do you mean with: ‘and your cheek weld will be lthe least sensitive that you can make it.’?
Could you perhaps forward me to the reports on adjusting scope? I mainly have problems with adjusting the eye piece to get the correct setting (focus) for the reticle. Am I right that I should set the focus to the setting that the reticle is sharp, but also that my eye muscles are relaxed? I think outside of this point, the reticle can be clear but that my eyes are overcompensating (which tires the eyes during shooting)?
Dekolta
Dekolta,
Here are some to look at:
/blog/2010/10/episode-13-scope-sights-101-scope-adjustment/
/blog/2016/08/how-to-range-find-with-an-adjustable-parallax-scope/
/blog/2007/03/how-your-eye-affects-a-parallax-adjustable-scope/
/blog/2007/03/how-to-use-an-adjustable-objective-scope/
/blog/2006/03/adjusting-a-scope/
/blog/2020/10/how-to-mount-a-scope-part-5/
That should get you started. Then there are the Airgun Academy videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rwvr8xw4Gc
There are over 40 of these and I did the last 10 or so. Several are on using scopes.
BB