The first Smith & Wesson 78G air pistol(s): Part 1

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

02-S&W 78G
A very early S&W 78G air pistol. Though the picture looks matte because of the cloud lighting, this one has glossy paint. It’s like new!

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • Behind the curtain
  • This pistol
  • How early is it?
  • Refinished?
  • Let’s look
  • So what?
  • Trigger
  • Interests?
  • Summary

What? Another S&W 78G? BB — we know you love this air pistol but you just finished a 5-part blog on one last June! Enough already!

Behind the curtain

There is a good reason why I needed to write this blog. I spent 10 hours yesterday (all day Friday) and this morning (Saturday) trying to tune my Diana 27S air rifle so I can report on it. At this point I have one piece of advice to anyone trying to tune one of these rifles. DON’T REMOVE THE TRIGGER BLADE ASSEMBLY!!! Eight and one-half of those ten hours have been spent trying to reinstall the trigger assembly and it still isn’t in! I will get the rifle back together and give you a great report on the tune and troubles I had in good time, but if a blog was going to be published today it had to be something else that was quick and easy. read more

Diana 27S: Part 1

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Diana 27S
Diana 27S.

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • Carel
  • Diana 27S
  • Anti-beartrap
  • Description
  • Dimensions
  • Sights
  • Ball bearing sear
  • History
  • Parts interchange
  • Summary

This report is one I wanted to write months ago, but after all I wrote about reader Michael’s Winchester 427 and my own Diana 26 and Diana 35, I thought I had better let vintage Dianas rest for awhile.


I purchased this Diana 27S along with the Diana 26 and Diana 35 I have just mentioned from reader Carel of the Netherlands. He gave me a fantastic deal on three air rifles that are quite uncommon in the US. The 35 is the most common of the three, but Carel had a very early one that was different than the one many Americans have seen, so it was just as uncommon to me as the other two.

Diana 35
The Diana 35 I got from Carel is a very early one that we don’t often see in the U.S.

I was able to tune the 35 to be a smooth shooter and an easy cocker — something that you don’t see with run-of-the-mill Diana 35s (and Winchester 435s/Hy-Score 809s/Beeman 200s that are all the same rebranded models). That was a 6-part series that’s linked above.

Diana 27S

And now we come to the subject air rifle — the .177-caliber Diana 27S. What is it? Well, there is very little written about this model so I’m going to expand your horizon just a tad. There are some subtle refinements on this scarce Diana model.

In the UK the German Diana is called the Original Diana, because the Milbro company of Scotland received the rights to produce and sell Diana airguns as war reparations following WWII. In the 1981 edition of The Airgun Book, author John Walter says the Original Diana 27S comes with “an automatic trigger-blocking safety”. I thought, “Oh, no — not one of those!” But don’t fret. He didn’t mean what you think.


What Walter meant was the 27S has an anti-beartrap device built into it, unlike the standard model 27 that you can close when it’s broken open by pulling the trigger (restrain the barrel when doing this!). There is no separate safety lever on the 27S. But the barrel has to be closed in order for the trigger to work, so Walter is correct in what he says, but the term anti-beartrap is used more commonly for this feature today. We will take a closer look at the parts that support this function when we go inside the rifle. Yes, we will be going inside!


The Diana 27S is a conventional breakbarrel spring-piston air rifle, but it differs from the 27 in a couple obvious ways. The triggerguard is very angular The forearm is also squared off and the end is cut on an angle instead of being rounded like the forearm end of a standard 27. The butt has a thin rubber pad that’s separated from the wood by a white line spacer. On a conventional model 27 there is just a red rubber button at the top of the wooden butt to help the rifle stand on its butt without slipping.

Diana 27S logo
The Diana logo shows Diana dropping her bow for a rifle. As you can see, there are flecks of rust in the blue. Ballistol and 0000 steel wool will handle them.

Diana 27S butt pad
The 27S has a whole butt pad, where the 27 just has a rubber button.

My .177-caliber 27S rifle weighs 6 pounds 10 oz., which is one pound one ounce heavier than my .22-caliber Diana 27 (Hy-Score 807). The .177 caliber adds a little weight because the barrel, having thicker walls, weighs a little more. Also the forearm of the stock is a trifle wider and the cocking slot is shorter because the two-piece cocking link is articulated and therefore doesn’t need the longer slot. More wood means more weight. In theory this makes the stock stiffer, which should help to reduce vibration a little, but in this day of

Tune in a Tube read more

Daisy 22SG multi-pump pneumatic: Part 3

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Daisy 22SG
Daisy 22SG.

Part 1
Part 2

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • The test
  • Check sight-in
  • RWS Hobbys
  • Beeman Kodiaks
  • RWS Superpoint
  • JSB Exact RS
  • RWS Superdome
  • JSB Hades
  • Discussion
  • Summary

Today we learn how accurate the Daisy 22SG is. The rifle was already scoped so I hoped it would be close to zero, if not spot-on. I didn’t know what pellet(s) shot well in the rifle, so this test starts from the beginning.

The test

I shot the rifle off a sandbag rest at 10 meters. I shot 5 shots per group and pumped the rifle 6 times for each shot. In the velocity test we learned that 6 pumps pushes an RWS Hobby pellet out at around 500 f.p.s. That’s fast enough for punching paper.

Check sight-in

Since the rifle is scoped I first checked the zero from 12 feet before shooting from 10 meters. The pellet hit about an inch below the aim point and a little to the right. It was hand-held, but that was close enough to start shooting from 10 meters. I expected the pellet to rise at that distance and it did. It’s hard to say how much it rose because 5 Hobbys went into 0.925-inches at 10 meters, but the center of that group seems to have risen about 3/4-inches. I am not showing that group.

RWS Hobbys

I adjusted the scope up several clicks and shot a second group. This time 5 Hobbys went into 0.659-inches at 10 meters. The group looks larger than that because the top pellet tore the target paper a bit, but I can see where the pellet impacted and I measured from there.

Hobby group
Five RWS Hobby pellets went into 0.659-inches at 10 meters. The group appears larger because the top pellet tore a piece of target paper that extends to the right.

Beeman Kodiaks

Someone may have commented that their 22X or SG shoots well with Baracudas. I tried some Beeman Kodiaks next, which are the same pellets as Baracudas. Five of them went into 0.691-inches at 10 meters. The group is horizontal, but I didn’t notice that while testing. I’m not sure I could have done anything about it, either.

The Daisy 22SG put 5 Beeman Kodiaks into 0.691-inches at 10 meters.

After this group I adjusted the scope up and to the left. There seems to be no stiction in this scope because the first shot after adjustment went right were it should.

RWS Superpoint

The next pellet I tried was an old standby — the RWS Superpoint. They are often quite accurate in vintage airguns. The 22SG put five of them in 0.661-inches at 10 meters. And that is an interesting measurement, because the first two groups measured 0.659- and 0.691-inches. At this point in the test it started to look like that was about the group size I would get regardless of the pellet that was shot.

Superpoint group
Five RWS Superpoint pellets went into 0.661-inches at 10 meters.

JSB Exact RS

Well, the next pellet — the JSB Exact RS — blew that theory right out of the water! Five of them went into 1.131-inches at 10 meters

JSB RS group
Five JSB Exact RS pellets made this 1.131-inch group at 10 meters.

RWS Superdome

Next to be tested were five RWS Superdomes. Five of them went into 0.783-inches at 10 meters. Okay, we are back to the good range again!

Superdome group
Five RWS Superdomes made this 0.783-inch group at 10 meters.

JSB Hades

The last pellet I tested was the

JSB Hades hollowpoint read more

Beeman C1: Part 2

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Beeman C1
My new Beeman C1 is a .177.

Part 1

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • Baseline
  • H&N Baracuda Match 4.50mm
  • RWS Superdome
  • RWS Hobby
  • Discussion 1
  • Trigger pull
  • Cocking effort
  • Discussion 2
  • Summary

The Beeman C1 I am testing is the airgun I acquired at the Texas Airgun Show this year. In Part one I noted for you all the shortcomings I could find with the rifle, which were many. These are the things I will address as this report advances. So, we will look at velocity today, but not accuracy until I straighten the bent barrel and tune the powerplant.


Today’s test will just establish where things are at this time. Now before we start testing, I want to say a few things. Reader David Enoch said he thought detuning this rifle to shoot a little slower might be a good idea. He was looking for a rifle that cocks easily. I hadn’t thought of that, but it doesn’t seem wrong.

The C1 doesn’t have an adjustable trigger. It’s a light trigger and we will find out how light this one is today. But a small rifle that’s accurate and easy to cock is a very nice thing. It’s the reason I like the Diana 27 so much. The C1 is larger than the Diana 27, but still small enough to be considered handy, so I’m going to give this idea some thought. Until we open her up and see what’s inside I really don’t know where we are yet.

Okay, let’s see what she’s doing today. This is a .177 caliber rifle that Beeman touted as an 830 f.p.s. airgun. We’ll see.

H&N Baracuda Match 4.50mm

I started with the heavy H&N Baracuda Match pellet with a 4.50mm head. This pellet weighs 10.65-grains and in the C1 it averaged 647 f.p.s. That produces a muzzle energy of 9.9 foot-pounds. The 10-shot string ranged from a low of 637 to a high of 655 f.p.s., so the spread was 18 f.p.s.

We know that in spring-piston airguns the lighter pellets are usually more efficient, so they should be slightly more powerful as the weight decreases. The C1 is a vintage spring gun that should prove the rule. Let’s see.

RWS Superdome

The 8.3-grain RWS Superdome was next to be tested. Ten Superdomes averaged 732 f.p.s. for an average muzzle energy of 9.88 foot-pounds. So the power “rule” doesn’t play out with this pellet.

The velocity ranged from a low of 722 to a high of 740 f.p.s. That’s a spread of 18 f.p.s. — again. Interesting.

RWS Hobby

Without a doubt the RWS Hobby was the pellet Beeman used to test the C1, back in the day. It was the lightest lead pellet generally available here in the U.S. at that time and was always used for velocity tests.

In the C1, Hobbys averaged 806 f.p.s. for 10 shots. That’s a muzzle energy of 10.10 foot-pounds, so the power rule holds true with this pellet. The spread ranged from a low of 793 to a high of 817 f.p.s. That’s a difference of 24 f.p.s.

Discussion 1

I am surprised this C1 is as powerful as it is. I would have bet against it, given how light the cocking effort seems to be.

There is a small bit of vibration with each shot, but by the standards of the day when the rifle was made it’s not much. We don’t have to put up with it today, and I don’t intend to, but I’m saying the powerplant may be in better shape than I imagined at first.

Trigger pull

The single stage trigger breaks at 3 lbs. 3 oz. It’s fairly crisp and has very little perceptible creep. I will look at the condition of the mating trigger parts and at least lubricate them when I’m inside the gun.

Cocking effort

The C1 has a strong chisel detent that requires a slap at the muzzle to open easily. You can break it with just your hands, but the slap makes it go faster. Once broken open the barrel is very loose and flops around. I do want to tighten the barrel pivot if I can.

The rifle cocks with 26 lbs. of effort. It should be about 35 lbs.  The cocking stroke is smooth all the way through. David Enoch, I think this rifle is what you want right now if I can fix those other things. If the mainspring is still straight I will leave it in the rifle. But if it’s canted I will replace it, because a canted spring causes buzz.

Discussion 2

I will be interested to see the piston seal, because the one in this rifle is made of Teflon. It doesn’t have a parachute lip; it’s just a solid white hockey puck.


This is as far as I can take the C1 before I straighten the barrel. So the next installment may take some time, because a lot of things might have to happen before I can write it.

Sheridan Blue Streak: Part 2

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Sheridan Blue Streak
My Sheridan Blue Streak dates back to 1978 when I bought it new.

Part 1

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • Lots of pellets
  • Test plan
  • Crosman Premiers
  • Huh?
  • Consistency
  • Last test — Benjamin Cylindricals
  • Pump effort
  • Discussion
  • Summary

Today I test my Sheridan Blue Streak’s velocity. If you read the test I did in 2016 you know that I had the rifle resealed by Jeff Cloud at that time. Up to that point it still had the seals that were installed at the factory in 1977 when the rifle was made, so that’s 39 years on the first set of seals.

Before resealing the rifle, .20 caliber 14.3-grain Crosman Premiers (a pellet that’s no longer available) made 462 f.p.s. on 8 pumps, where the manual says to stop, and it went 476 f.p.s. on 10 pumps with no air remaining in the gun after the shot.

After resealing the rifle, the same Crosman Premier pellet went 582 f.p.s. on 8 pumps and 609 f.p.s. on 9 pumps. After 9 pumps were shot there was air left over in the gun, so 8 pumps was the effective maximum after resealing. That is a gain of 120 f.p.s. or 86 f.p.s., depending on which former velocity you accept as the top.

Following Part 4 of that series, which published on October, 2016, I put two pumps of air in the rifle and never touched it again until this report started on July 15 of this year. Actually that wasJuly 13, because I usually have to test my guns before writing about them. Still, almost three years had passed and the rifle was still holding air when I got it out.

Lots of pellets

I have plenty of .20 caliber pellets for this test. They range from the older Sheridan cylindrical pellets that came from a yellow plastic box that was purchased in the 1990s to several cardboard boxes of Crosman Premiers I have saved over the years. For modern pellets I have the following.

.20 caliber H&N Baracuda
.20 caliber H&N Field Target Trophy
.20 caliber Predator Polymag
.20 caliber JSB Exact
.20 caliber Benjamin Cylindrical

That’s all the .20 caliber lead pellets Pyramyd Air stocks except for the JSB Exact Heavy. I plan to test all of those on hand for accuracy, but not for velocity. Their weights should tell us how fast they want to go, give or take a little. What I’m interested in testing is where the rifle is today, so we know where we stand going into the accuracy test.

Test plan

Today I will test the Blue Streak with Crosman Premiers in the same way I tested it in 2016, so we can compare. I will test velocity with 3 through 9 pumps and then I will test consistency with 5 pumps. Let’s get started

Crosman Premiers

This first test is with the Crosman Premier pellet that’s now obsolete.

7……………..626 (no air remained)
8……………..651 (no air remained)
9……………..665 (no air remained)


Okay — what just happened? I don’t know, but after sitting for 3 years with 2 pumps of air inside, my Blue Streak is now either 83 f.p.s. faster on 8 pumps than immediately following the reseal in 2016 (if you go with what 8 pumps did back then), or 56 f.p.s. faster (if you go with what 9 pumps did back then). Either way, it has picked up some real velocity!


Now let’s look at how consistent the rifle is when pumped the same number of times. I will fire 5 Premiers on 5 pumps each for this test.


Across 5 shots with 5 pumps each, the Blue Streak shot Premiers within 19 f.p.s. of each other. And only shot 5 was slow. The other 4 are within 10 f.p.s. of each other.

Back in 2016 after the reseal during this same test the rifle stayed within 73 f.p.s. for this same test with the same pellet. But it seemed to be warming up as I shot that first string, so I ran the test a second time.

The second time the rifle delivered the same 19 f.p.s. velocity variation for 5 shots on 5 pumps each that we see in today’s test. The same Premier pellet was used and the average velocity for the second run was around 543 f.p.s. I attributed that to the new seals warming up as the gun was shot. But they may have just been breaking in. At any rate, the gun is faster now than it was 3 years ago. Apparently multi-pumps do need a short break-in period after a rebuild before achieving top performance.

Last test — Benjamin Cylindricals

I know the Premier pellet I’m using for the tests is obsolete and unobtainable. So, to bring this test into the modern timeframe, I also tested it with variable pumps while shooting the new Benjamin Cylindrical pellet.

7……………..590 (no air remained)
8……………..621 (no air remained)
9……………..634 (no air remained)

Pump effort

Now I measured the effort needed for each of the effective pump strokes.

Pumps….Effort lbs……2016 lbs.

The effort to pump has gone up up a bit. That may indicate that the rifle is pumping more efficiently today than it was in 2016.


Now we have a good baseline for the rifle and are ready to proceed to accuracy testing. I will start with the Crosman Premier pellet that proved so accurate three years ago. I may test that pellet with a different number of pumps to see if there is a best number. But with all those other pellets I will certainly see what it will do with each one. Perhaps 5-shots groups for most of them, because this is a multi-pump?


This Blue Streak continues to surprise me. I have owned it for 41 years and I’m still learning things about it. What will come next?

Smith & Wesson model 77A multi-pump pneumatic air rifle: Part 1

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

S&W 77A
My S&W model 77A rifle. The black paint is flaking off the aluminum receiver, but the steel and wood parts are both in good condition.

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • S&W 77A
  • History
  • Blue Book
  • Back to the history
  • The price
  • Description
  • Sights
  • Scope base?
  • The action
  • Safety is automatic
  • Summary

There was tremendous temptation to write about my new S&W 79G pistol today. In light of the excellent things reader 45 Bravo has told us, plus the testing I have already done on my .22 caliber 78G pistol, it seemed natural to transition into the .177-caliber 79G today. But not all readers like these pistols and I didn’t want them to think that was all I could write about. Like the Diana guns, these aren’t for everybody.

S&W 77A

So today we start looking at the S&W 77A multi-pump pneumatic air rifle. This is the rifle I traded for at the recent Texas Airgun Show. The man I got it from said it shoots hard and I have shot it into duct seal a few times just to see. It seems to be right on for power. We will find out in Part 2.


This rifle was produced from 1971 to 1978, according to the Blue Book of Airguns. The 77A was only produced in .22 caliber, so don’t look for one in .177.

Blue Book

Speaking of the Blue Book for a moment, there has been a change to their schedule. The book they thought would be out by now has been delayed until next year. Dennis Adler and I are now co-authors of the book, but you shouldn’t see many changes to the format because of that. However, my Gaylord Reports column will now have to encompass 4 years since the last book was published, so it will have to be longer. Okay, back to the 77A.

Back to the history

I’m looking at an ad from 1973, plus a listing in the 1974 Shooter’s Bible. The ad says to expect the rifle to fire up to 600 f.p.s., which puts it about even with the Benjamin 342. If not even, pretty close. Today’s equivalent Benjamin would be the 392.

Smith & Wesson made their own airguns, which was not common for a firearms company. Most firearms companies like Winchester buy guns from other makers and have their names put on them. In fact Winchester was buying air rifles and pistols from Diana in the 1970s when the 77A was being produced. In 1974 their model 427 breakbarrel went for $47.95.

As we mentioned in the series on the 78G and 79G pistols, Smith & Wesson probably had at least one former Crosman employee on staff, because their pistol mechanisms are virtually identical to the Marks I and II of the Crosman line. But there are significant differences in the rifle that I will address in a bit.

The price

In 1974 the 78G and 79G pistols sold for $36.50. The 77A rifle was listed at $42.50. The Benjamin 342 that was equivalent listed for $43.95 and the Sheridan Blue Streak was $48.25 at the same time, so the S&W rifle was the lowest-priced of the three. I bet that had to do with Smith & Wesson not having a reputation for airguns. The S&W model 80 CO2 BB gun sold for $24.94.


The rifle is 40 inches long and has a 22-inch barrel that has 10 lands and grooves with a right-hand twist. The length of pull is 13-1/2-inches, so it’s made for older kids and adults. The rifle I’m testing weighs 6 lbs. 3 oz., though in the Shooter’s Bible it’s listed as 6 lbs. 8 oz. Obviously the varying wood weight makes the difference. The overall length is 4 inches longer than the 392 and it weighs three-quarters of a pound more. That gives this rifle a very substantial feel.

The metal parts are a combination of painted aluminum and blued steel. The only synthetics I can find on the outside of the rifle are the buttplate that has a nice S&W logo in the center and the spacer between the barrel and pump tube. The buttplate is slick, so be careful when standing the rifle up.

The wood on both the buttstock and pump lever/forearm on my rifle are dark blonde with very little in the way of figure. S&W said in their ad they were finished with a walnut stain, but that must have been on an earlier or later version. The finish on my rifle is light maple and I believe the wood is maple as well. The buttstock is held on by a bolt through the butt, and S&W has put small projections at the top and bottom of the pistol grip wood where the stock meets the receiver to keep it from twisting. That’s a nice touch!

The forearm has finger grooves on both sides that run just over 6 inches. They make holding the rifle feel very natural.


The rifle has open sights. A squared-off post in front matched a square notch at the rear. The sizes of the front post and rear notch are closely matched, so I should be able to do some good work with them, as long as my target is brightly lit. A 1973 ad I read promised dime-sized groups at 33 feet. I bet S&W never reckoned on old BB Pelletier coming along 50 years later and putting them to the test! I will assume they meant 5-shot groups, because that was what was popular at the time.

The rear sight adjusts vertically by means of a stepped elevator under the rear leaf. The steps are small, so I’ll find out how close it comes when I test the rifle for accuracy. The sight leaf is held to the barrel by spring steel legs that wrap around the barrel, and there is a small Allen screw on top to anchor it. The sight legs both touch or almost touch the plastic spacer, so I don’t think left and right adjustment is possible.

77A rear sight
The rear sight adjusts for elevation but not windage.

Scope base?

One last thing — there seems to be an 11mm scope base on top of the action. There are two areas that have small dovetails that appear to be 11mm. The 1973 ad says the rifle is grooved for a scope, so I must be seeing it right. I will attempt to scope the rifle and we’ll see if it’s possible. The dovetails are very shallow which is why I’m waffling on this.

77A scope base
There are two dovetails (arrows) on top of the receiver that are supposed to accept an 11mm scope mount.

The action

This is the strangest part of the rifle. It operates like a Farquharson! And everyone said, “A whaaaaat?” A Farquharson is a 19th-century British single shot falling block action that might look like a Ruger Number One to many shooters. Only it’s decades older and more complex.

77A Farquharson
This view shows the Farquharson lever down, but the breech block has not yet dropped down

77A Ruger action open
Ruger simplified the Farquharson action and produced it as their model 1 in the mid to late 20th century. This is the even simpler Ruger model 3 on my .32/40 schuetzen rifle..

77A action open
When the 77A is cocked the trigger guard and firing mechanism drops like this as the bolt probe is withdrawn in the loading trough. read more

Smith & Wesson 78G and 79G target pistols: Part 5

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

S&W 78G
My S&W 78G pistol.

A history of airguns

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4

Today’s report is written by reader 45Bravo. This is his report to us on resealing the S&W 78G and 79G.

If you’d like to write a guest post for this blog, please email me.

And now, over to you, 45Bravo.

Resealing the Smith & Wesson 78G

This report covers:

  • Where to start?
  • The reseal
  • Get started
  • Assembly
  • Wrapping it all up

So, all of the gas leaks out of your Smith & Wesson pistol as soon as you pierce the CO2 cartridge. It’s probably the piercing pin seal. Since these pistols are now over 40 years old, they need TLC. (And I’m not talking about the TV channel.)

Where to start?

The factory seals didn’t fare well with the lubricants used by most shooters at the time these guns were made, and the seals disintegrated over time. If you are going to change seals, I suggest changing them all at the same time.

Since this is a CO2 gun, you want to use o-rings that are not affected by carbon dioxide. If you use a standard hardware store o-ring, the CO2 gets absorbed into the o-ring material, causing it to swell to several times its normal size. The wrong type of o-ring on the outer rim of the piercing cap will continue to hold the cap tight, even when your cartridge is empty. It will be quite awhile for the o-ring to shrink back to its original size so you can open the cap and change the cartridge.

There are a couple of places in the gun where you probably could use regular hardware store o-rings, like in places where they are captive, but I would not suggest that unless you want to go back inside the pistol again in a year or so. Urethane o-rings are the best. With proper care, you should not have to reseal the gun for decades.

Normally I use a complete kit from Mac1 Airguns that includes a new redesigned poppet (Ed. — valve), and a complete set of 90-durometer Mil-Spec urethane o-rings.

But not everyone wants to or even can spend $35 on their project, so I decided to source a set of urethane seals from eBay without the valve as a test to see how well they work compared to the others. There are several sellers on ebay selling different seal kits, I chose the one that offered urethane seals with free shipping, and a good price.

A single set that works for both the .177 and .22 costs $5.50, but 2 sets were $7.15, shipped from a U.S. seller. I ordered them on Monday, they arrived on Saturday.

The seller also includes an exploded view, and an o-ring size reference as to where they go in the gun.

Ebay seal kit
Ebay seal kit comes with seals and a diagram.

Normally, the seal inside the poppet is trashed like the rest of the seals, but the one in the gun I am resealing looks new. Since this is going to be a budget reseal test, I decided not to change it. I just replaced the o-rings, and will see how long it runs.

The reseal

As we go I will offer some tips to make things go easier and faster.

The largest o-ring goes on the co2 cap.
The next smaller one goes on the valve body plug.
Then there are 4 smaller o-rings that are the same size. They are used on the .22 bolt probe, the cartridge connector, and inside the piercing cap.
The single smallest o-ring is for the .177 bolt probe.

Tip: I suggest using a small zip tie, or velcro cable management tie like you use to hold laptop power cables to hold the trigger rearward while you do the reseal.

Using the cable tie is not necessary, but the trigger spring can be a little fiddly to get back in position, and you need an 11th finger to hold the trigger to the rear during assembly if you don’t use something to hold it.

Get started

The seal that fails most often, and the easiest one to change, is the one in the piercing cap. You do not have to disassemble the entire cap to change the o-ring, just have the right tool for the job.

Tip: You can use a Dremel tool, or a file to modify a screwdriver tip as shown to make a tool that clears the piercing pin, but lets you unscrew the seal cover.

The right tool for the job. Sometimes you have to make it!

Use a dental pick or similar tool to carefully remove the old seal. Clean the inside carefully, lightly lube the replacement o-ring with your choice of lube then center it over the piercing pin, and then screw the seal cover back in place.

Since this is a budget build, I am using Crosman Pellgunoil as a lubricant, because I am sure every CO2 shooter has some on hand.

Then remove the large old cap seal o-ring, clean the groove and put the new largest o-ring on the outer part of the piercing cap.

cap seal
All of the seals/o-rings in this pistol were in this condition. This one seals the piercing pin inside the cap.

Remove the grip screws and grips, and then the rear screw under the right grip as shown below.

takedown screw
The rear screw on the right side of the grip is the takedown screw.

Then remove the power adjuster outer screw below the barrel.

Remove the outer power adjuster screw at the muzzle.

Tip: You can insert the eraser end of a pencil into the hole to remove the outer sleeve the power adjuster rides in.

The slide now comes off the frame. Be careful of the pin that holds the bolt in place.

Remove the bolt, and replace the old o-ring on the bolt probe with one of the 4 o-rings that are the same size.

bolt seal
The bolt or probe comes out of the pistol and the o-ring needs to be replaced.

Now, remove the 3 screws that hold the valve in the frame.

Tip: For pry tools on guns I use bamboo chopsticks from the Chinese restaurants. They don’t mar the finish, and they are free…

Remove the valve cartridge, it may take some gentle persuasion as there is a short tube that goes from the valve into the frame. That tube passes gas from the CO2 cartridge into the valve. It is called the cartridge connector.

In the frame, under the valve cartridge connecting tube is a very small brass screen,  be careful to not lose or damage it, as it protects your valve from debris that might get into the system.

This tiny screen under the cartridge connector (gas transfer port) keeps dirt from entering the valve. read more