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Ammo Benjamin Trail Nitro Piston 2: Part 6

Benjamin Trail Nitro Piston 2: Part 6

by Tom Gaylord, a.k.a. B.B. Pelletier

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5

This report covers:

• Rifle was set up
• The hold
• Accuracy
• A hunter’s rifle
• Comparison with the first rifle

Benjamin Trail Nitro Piston 2
Benjamin Trail Nitro Piston 2

This is accuracy day with the second Benjamin Trail Nitro Piston 2 rifle — the one Crosman sent especially for this test. We’ve already seen how this second rifle exceeds the power of the first one, so today we’ll see what impact that has on accuracy. As with the first rifle, I’ll shoot 14.3-grain Crosman Premier pellets exclusively in this test.

Rifle was set up
When I unboxed the scope, I found the rings already installed in the correct location, meaning I could install them directly on the rifle. That proves this rifle has been tested and set up before I received it. The scope went on quickly, and I found it was very close to being sighted-in; but the inability to focus the target as close as 25 yards was a hinderance to aiming. I estimate my groups were a quarter-inch larger than they needed to be because I couldn’t see well enough to put the crosshairs on an exact spot. The scope arrived set at 4X, which indicates the rifle was tested at 10 meters or yards before it was sent. At 25 yards, I wanted to see the bull more clearly, so I adjusted it to 9X. But as I said, the focus was off because the scope is parallax-adjusted for a longer distance.

The hold
I refined the sight setting and proceeded to test the hold I thought would do best — based on results from the first rifle’s test. I also tried several other holds and hand placements, establishing one thing for certain. The NP2 wants to be held firmly. Do not use the artillery hold. Instead, I found it best to slide my off hand out to almost the end of the stock and grip the forearm firmly. I can feel the forearm screw holds on the tips of my thumb and fingers, so I know my hand is in the same place every time. Any hold that wasn’t firm allowed pellets to rise vertically. I fired probably 30 shots testing just the different holds and pressures.

Benjamin Trail Nitro Piston 2 Artillery hold group
When I used the classic artillery hold, this is what I got at 25 yards — every time! They’re all in line but off vertically. The NP2 wants to be held firmly.

Accuracy
I then shot three 10-shot groups using the factory scope. The best of them measures 1.104 inches between centers, and the worst measures 1.168 inches. I really tried to do well, but the blurriness of the target did cause my aim to be off.

Benjamin Trail Nitro Piston 2 best factory scope group
The best 25-yard group using the factory scope and the best hold measures 1.104 inches between centers. No, I didn’t get the images mixed up. This group is slightly smaller than the one below.

Benjamin Trail Nitro Piston 2 worst factory scope group
The worst group with the factory scope isn’t much different than the best. Ten Premiers went into 1.168 inches at 25 yards.

I felt the factory scope was hindering my best efforts, so I swapped it for an older CenterPoint 3-9X40 with an adjustable objective. This scope is one CenterPoint no longer carries. It’s a simple scope without an illuminated reticle; and other than the larger objective lens and the AO, it’s close to the scope that came with the rifle.

I allowed a day to pass between the first shooting session and the second because too much concentration makes me lose my edge. The next day, I shot another four 10-shot groups, plus some more sighters to get the scope shooting where I wanted. On this second day, my groups ranged from 0.895 inches between centers to 1.483 inches. I learned as I went, refining the hold that seems to be critical with the NP2. The worst group, for example, came when I experimented with the firmness of the offhand grip.

By the end of the session, I knew what this rifle wants — a firm hold of the off hand as far out on the forearm as you can comfortably hold and a firm hold of the pistol grip. Pull the butt into your shoulder firmly. This is not a death grip — just a firm hold, and it seems to be what the NP2 wants.

Benjamin Trail Nitro Piston 2 best new scope group
The best group with the second scope measures 0.895 inches between centers at 25 yards. The second-best group was almost the same size as this.

Benjamin Trail Nitro Piston 2 worst new scope group
The worst group with the second scope measures 1.483 inches between centers at 25 yards. I was experimenting with the firmness of my grasp during this group.

I’m not through with this rifle, yet. Each one of my second-session groups contains a large cluster of shots that are very close, then some strays that wander off — usually down, but not always. I think I’m close to understanding what this rifle wants, but I’m not there yet. I think it needs a very repeatable offhand grasping pressure. I’ll give it one more session and also shoot some different pellets next time — to see if I have been missing anything by shooting Crosman Premiers exclusively.

A hunter’s rifle
I have seen rifles like the NP2 before. They take some getting used to, but they reward the shooter with incredible accuracy once their secrets are learned. They’re rifles for hunters who use only a single rifle for all their needs. For the price this air rifle costs, I don’t think you can get one that’s any better.

Comparison with the first rifle
The first NP2 also took getting used to; but when I did, it gave me a best 25-yard group of 0.704 inches at 25 yards. So far, this rifle has given a best of 0.895 inches. Both rifles seem to want to do better, but I haven’t discovered quite how, just yet.

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

105 thoughts on “Benjamin Trail Nitro Piston 2: Part 6”

  1. I have five PCP guns and I don’t use
    them as much as I should because of the
    hand pumping I am thinking of now getting
    an air tank so I’ll get more use out of them.
    I did it again”I am on the wait list for the
    Benjamin NP2 which I’ll try for small game this year
    since air hunting is now legal in Florida.
    PS” Is Benjamin still going to introduce the
    scissor pump at any time soon.

  2. With my ability diminished to the point it is right now, I’d be very proud of being able to put 10 rounds outta any of my guns unto one of those little clusters, let alone a new one. I turned the holiday weekend into a 3 day shootoff. Been down 2 now, exhausted. I already suspect this gun to be a bit big for me, If I do get one it will be a while, the challenges too great for now.
    I think I got the nephew to the point that he remembers he has a BB gun again. I wanna get him one of those Cubes that stops BB’s.I’m pretty sure B.B. is testing one right now for indoor shooting but can’t recall what it is(think that started when I was in the hospital),too many BB’s bounced back way too hard off the stump I’ve grown accustomed to using as a backstop for pellets. I devised a clamshell of Chinet plates that worked fairly well in a pinch but he wants to get “closer to the middle” of the target so this means closer to the target(I don’t guess 6 year olds rest BB guns)I’ll go see if I can find it now.

    Reb

      • RidgeRunner,
        Thanks!I didn’t remember it being for higher powered airguns too. My nephew is still a little small, even for his Buck. I have another Buck stock I guess I’ll cut down for him so he learns proper technique.

  3. Hi Tom
    Looking at that vertical string grouping it reminded me of exactly the same phenomenon which happened to me with a refurbished FWB 124. Someone on another forum suggests the lockup was not consistent. I fixed that by working on the new breech seal which was a bit on the thick side. After the fix I got 15mm groups at 30m.(with brand new internals) Is it maybe possible that the Benjamin can have the same problem. That stronger hold on a springer just do not make sense, but there happens sometimes funny things in this game.

    Regards
    Deon

  4. I wonder if this rifle would be more consistent if shot offhand with a sling.
    Also, I’ve always wondered if there is a right and wrong place to situate rings on a scope.

  5. My Trail NP1 is a permanent fixture in my arsenal, even with its spongy trigger. I’ve had other springers come and go. I was enticed by the release of the NP2 but I guess I’ll stick with “Ol spongy”.

      • No, I just got used to it. I was going to get a charliedatuna setup, but then I played with some other springers, and eventually started building my crosman custom PCP. After polishing that trigger group and using moly lube, I realize that I’ll never get ‘ol spongy to that level. After a few shots, I remember how to shoot the NP1 trigger, so no big deal.

  6. BB, the centerpoint 3-9×40 is the scope that I have . My home ranges are 10 m . I have the same problem that you described when trying to use the higher powers. REB, what are chinet plates? Ed

  7. B.B.
    Looking at the vertical string grouping, I would have to agree with another reader that this looks like a typical Crosman lockup issue. I had this same problem with my Nitro Venom. If you get time I would like to you to try a quick 2 shot test with this rifle. First shot, close the barrel up with some extra force ( a little more than normal )… 2nd shot close the barrel with as little amount of force as possible. I bet you will see almost or more than a 1″ vertical distance. This is exactly why I hate the crossbar and chisel lockup on Crosmans. They need to go back to the old 2 chisel design and use stronger springs with better tolerances on the locking wedge. I bet you can also wiggle that wedge side to side while the barrel is broke open. Makes me wonder how it can ever lock up to the same spot twice.

  8. Hi B.B
    Where is the part that you wrote about the piston damper for the np2? I read it and thought why o why not in a coil spring gun… but cant find it again in this entire series… and I cant find the show report. Please point me in the right direction

  9. BB
    What do you think the gun should group at?

    I guess I should look also before I ask this question but I’m running out of time. What kind of groups were you able to get with the original Np1 guns?

    I know that Np XL .25 cal. gun I had was a hand full to try to get to shoot consistent. And I was thinking maybe that was because of the caliber. I had to hold it firm also to get it to shoot half way decent. Maybe that’s just the nature of a Np gun though.

    And one more question for you BB. Will you be coming back to the part 2 of the 2240 conversion soon? I’m just going to say one word about mine because I don’t want to spoil your results when you report about yours. Excellent.

    • GF1,

      I think the NP2 should put 10 pellets into a half-inch at 25 yards, or something thereabouts. The others I tested were not as accurate as this one, I don’t believe. Except for the Benjamin Legacy and the Crosman Titan GP Nitro Piston (Lower Velocity).

      I never wrote about the Legacy (gas spring version) because I went to the hospital suddenly in 2010 and when I came out several months later the gun was out of production. It was replaced by the Crosman Titan GP Nitro Piston (Lower Velocity) that I did blog. It looks like that rifle got about the same accuracy as the NP2 I am testing now.

      /blog/2010/11/crosman-titangp-nitro-piston-lower-velocity-part-3/

      B.B.

  10. B.B.

    By the way it coincided the way that I may be able to test different holds on D-470 tomorrow and see if the new rule works for every “new thumbhole magnum”. If lucky, I’ll report on that.

    Bought today SFWA SS 16×42 scope. If I didn’t knew it’s Japanese, I’d say it’s Soviet. Clicks like AK bolt (force and sound), looks like a child of a lead pipe and small tank. Magnification adjustment is for weaklings, so there’s none, weight is for strong ones. I love this approach. Hope it will live log and work well on my shillelagh.

    duskwight

    • duskwight,

      Yep! If my hold works on your rifle, I would say we are onto something.

      I shot a 91/30 Mosin Nagant today. I was getting a baseline with open sights so when I mount the Leapers scout scope on it we will have a basis for comparison.

      B.B.

  11. BB,

    You might try a barrel weight or muzzle brake to dampen out or change the barrel harmonics and see if that settles down the vertical stringing and hold pickiness of this NP2. I had to put a muzzle break on the .22 barrel of my HW90 to settle it out. A barrel weight (redneck) also helped with my .22 634.

    /Dave

  12. BB, maybe your pulling down to much, expecting the muzzle to jump up when you fire, giving you that very nice vertical line. Or maybe the barrel lockup like others have said. Or maybe I don’t know what I’m talking about. I have been through that with my gas piston when trying to find a hold, I hold far out the stock as well and a sturdy grip with my trigger hand with some shoulder pressure. It definetly takes some getting use to but it’s my daily shooter and doesn’t take long to get back into the habits I need for that rifle. I still think this rifle will be worth the money if Crosman works everything out. By the way since someone mentioned it, what is the real story with the Mav77?, didn’t someone say it here that it was never i n production because the prototypes were so bad? Thanks again, Ricka

  13. BB,

    First, thank you so much for all of the testing and reporting that you do. Your reviews have been very helpful with a number of airgun/ammo purchases. I’m just getting [back] into airguns after about a 30 year hiatus. Unfortunately, I’ve quickly become addicted.

    My latest craving is for a gas spring break barrel. I’m looking at either the NP2 in this test or the Octane, in .22 cal. I would mostly be shooting paper targets between 25 – 100yds, hopefully using non-lead ammo if the velocities don’t break the sound barrel. I care more about accuracy than velocity. [My ideal setup would be a .22 Marauder, but funds won’t allow this at this point] Which of these 2 guns would you recommend based on your experience?

    Thanks!

    • Zack,

      I would recommend the NP2, but you aren’t going to shoot it at 100 yards. Try 35 yards, first. When you can hold a one-inch group of 5 at that distance, you’re ready to move to 50.

      Lead-free pellets are not accurate, as a rule. And velocity isn’t what destroys accuracy — vibration is. The very vibration that those gas spring guns have in abundance. read this 11-part report on the subject:

      /blog/2011/12/pellet-velocity-versus-accuracy-test-part-11/

      B.B.

  14. Vincent posted this, but it was lost, so I’m reposting it.

    Although I have shot springers for years – this is my first gas piston – the Nitro Piston 2 with all the improvement swayed me to try it and this excellent write up helped a lot in my decision.

    The trigger is noticeably heavier than the Rekord on a Weihrauch HW95 .22 that I normally shoot – but at least the NP2 is crisp and predictable. I have adjusted the trigger by loosening about 1 1/2 turns – it’s made the first stage longer, and the second stage I think is relatively lighter. The overly long first stage does help in stopping and keeping the hold until I want the trigger to break – just wish I could set it lighter.

    Cocking is smooth and comparable to my Weihrauch HW95 .22. Fit and finish seems good for the price – the barrel shroud does want come loose – but I just give it a small twist after cocking to tighten it back up – remembering not to over-tighten for fear of cracking the plastic shroud/cone at the breech end.

    The supplied scope – without AO is almost unusable for my indoor shooting – so I had to replace it with an old Tasco Varmint 2.5-10×42 scope I had mounted on another gun.

    The firing behavior is pretty sharp snap/jolt when compared to the mid-high powered springers I have, like the Weihrauch HW95 – but without the spring twang. It’s like there’s a snap – and it’s over – it seems I can follow-through better although the first (and only) snap/jolt seems harsher – but then it’s supposed to be a lot more powerful than the ~14ft/lb HW95

    Even though still breaking in and only tried my cheapest pellets – some old stock of Crosman/Copperhead .22 Wadcutters – while sighting in my scope – I managed a 5-shot group as good as the HW95 – one-hole cloverleaf group – this is good for me – especially considering it is while I was setting up the gun.

    Thanks for the detailed review, so I knew what I was expecting.

  15. B.B.

    Many thanks for rescuing my post, much appreciated.

    The Benjamin Trail NP2 is such great value for money – on paper it’s comparable to the Beeman RX-2 (Weihrauch HW90) or even a Theoben Crusader @ ~4X the price….

    Obviously the NP2 trigger is nowhere as good as the Rekord on Weihrauch – but it’s still a reasonably good trigger with a clean break, albeit a bit heavy (miles better than any earlier Crosman trigger I have used).

    Overall I am liking the NP2 – have to plink/practice with it a lot more to get used to it, and more consistent with my grouping – during my set up, once I had the scope (Tasco Varmit 2.5-10×42) zeroed in, amazingly the first shot of the group seemed to dead on, then I seem to deteriorate – once I go off the bull I seem not to be able to recover – I put this down to a mental thing!

    Thanks again (belatedly for such a thorough investigation/write up – it was tremendously helpful)

      • Thank you again B.B. –
        I can’t believe I am conversing with the legendary Tom Gaylord.

        I believe I do have an accurate one – I shoot my groups off-hand from sitting (field target-like position – arms resting on thighs). The first thing I realize is that I am the biggest variable – but I really want to know if I can shoot the gun.

        Most of the groups are OK – currently nowhere as good as I am on the HW95. But I did get quite a respectable 5-shot group during my set up – and I later shot a 5-shot group with my HW95 as control comparison – pic –

        http://tinyurl.com/qhjmhs5

        It’s only 9 yards – but I thought this was pretty good for a new gun and different shooting behavior/characteristics – as mentioned I was amazed/surprised a lot of my first shots were dead-on (then I deteriorate) but it shows the gun has very good potential and seems very accurate.

        Thanks again,

        Vincent

  16. Well I am a little bummed after reading this review mostly by the lack of promised FPS/FPE the nitro2 was touted to have. I just ordered one Friday for a real great price. I love my Trail NP .177 and have loved my Varmint NP .22 which is very unrated in power and punch (or at least I feel that). I had wanted a ,22 with some added FPS/FPE and chose the Trail NP2 .22 instead of the XL .22 or even the XL .25. I hope I don’t regret my decision too greatly. I always do a ton of research but may have stumbled across this article too late. 🙁

    Any feedback on the XL ,22 or XL .25 would be great help just in case I decide to return the NP2.

    Thank you, and Happy New Year to all of the Airmen and women out there!

      • Thank you B.B.P.,

        I definitely will give it a chance and thank you for the welcome. I hope I can utilize your blog for answers, learning and maybe once in a while add my take and feedback.

        Have you any feedback on the XL version of the NPs? in .22 or .25? Inevitably I am trying to get more FPS/Mainly FPE for some knockdown power for exterminating vermin and varmints. I most likely keep the NP2 but if I still want to add one of the XL models what would be your recommendation? I suppose we will see and XL in the NP2 models as it kind of seems logical….If anyone has XL feedback I welcome the input.

        Thank you again, RB

        • Ric,

          Those Trail 1100 XLs definitely do shoot faster, but they are bothersome because they require so much technique to hit anything.

          I have tested several of them over the years.

          /blog/2010/03/benjamin-trail-np-xl1100-part-4/

          /blog/2010/07/benjamin-trail-nitro-piston-hardwood-part-3/

          B.B.

  17. Finally made it!

    To all voicing concern of my absence,
    First, your concern is very much appreciated! I am scheduled for a cerebral angiogram at Hendrick Medical center in Abilene on Wed. the 7th and tried staying with my sister who lives there instead of having to go back and forth. It didn’t work out so well.Judging from what I saw on the MRI’s I have a cavity about the size of a small apple in the center of my brain. When I asked if I had ruptured an aneurysm Doc didn’t confirm but pointed at me as though it was one of the possibilitiies. The scan will ensure adequate blood supply or we’ll have some plumbing to do before I can start refilling the cavity with new grey matter.- A hole in my brain where my patience once was!
    Happy belated holidays!
    Reb

  18. Well I received my NP2 in a synthetic stock Monday and was pretty disappointed in the feel, quality, and corners that have been cut to produce this new trail gun. So disappointed that I returned it without even firing a pellet one time. I don’t understand why they just didn’t put the NP2 power plant in the existing or 1st version of the Trail NP stock/platform. A huge marketing mistake (just my personal opinion). I love my Trail NP, the stout beefy stock, is great. Also I was super turned off by the amount of plastic parts that have been introduce where in my previous Trail NP were Metal……IE Barrel shroud, (not just the tapered end where the barrel meets the pivot joint but the whole darn barrel shroud! Even the end cap is plastic??? The Stock was hollow, with such a light feel.

    Like I said completely my opinion, I still love my other Crosman/Benjamin products. I think I will go for the XL .22 or ,25 soon instead. Or the PCP Armada Tac Weapon.

    Hope this wasn’t too negative, again just my opinion.

    Cheers, RB Airgunny

  19. A follow up report – having now had the Benjamin Trail NP2 (wood) for a few weeks – I can report I have got used to it and stopped flinching and the trigger seems a lot more consistent, I have now developed a good hold for the Benj NP2 – a relaxed firm hold 0r perhaps a firm artillery hold – obviously not as loose as a springer – but certainly not too tight…

    I doubt if I have put much more than maybe 300+ pellets through it – but thought I’d show the results I am now getting. All off-hand shots sitting arms resting on legs (field target like position) distance was about 9 yards.

    I play this game with myself to try to hit the center spot with my first shot – if I do, I move on to the next target – if I don’t even clip the spot I shoot until I at least clip the spot.

    My homemade printed targets are only just over 1″ diameter with the central bulls-eye spot just about .22″.

    This is my sheet with shots starting Jan/15 (date on target) until just a few minutes ago on Jan/18/2015 –

    http://tinyurl.com/o66p9lb

    I am sure there are better shooters than me out there – but I am pretty pleased with this – especially for the 4 first shots that were more or less dead center. Mostly I do at least clip the center spot within 2-3 shots – there is one group where I failed to even clip the spot with 5 shots – but the group is pretty good – which shows whatever I was doing wrong – I was consistent about it!

    So as always – it’s not the gun, it’s almost always the shooter that makes the main difference.

      • Thank you BB.

        My benchmark is my Weihrauch HW95 – I think a pretty high standard for a springer – it’s the Rekord trigger and consistent behavior that allows me to be accurate with it.

        This Benjamin Trail NP2 is almost right up there now (for me), the trigger is not (quite) as good – but just miles better than any Crosman trigger I have ever shot – once I got used to the fast snap/jolt/recoil of the NP2, I learned to hold it consistently.

        The reason I play that game with myself is to simulate hunting/pest control situation where the first shot has to count – so I try to get my first shot to hit the central spot, and as can be seen for my accumulated sheet I can do that with pretty good consistency – and I don’t even claim to be a good shot – a poor or even slightly below average gun cannot possibly get results like that.

        The Benjamin Trail NP2 to me is just about ideal – shooting about 20+fpe with a single cocking stroke that is reasonably light and smooth – with a sharp but smooth recoil, and a trigger (albeit a bit heavier than I like) that is consistent and predictable.

        I use to dream of an airgun like that…….

  20. Another follow up report.

    I thought that perhaps shooting the way I did of moving on to the next target when I clip/cut the center spot might be my cop-out of not shooting groups. So on a sheet I started to shoot 5-shot groups – again off-hand sitting, target at about 9 yards – overall target is just a shade over 1″ and the central spot is about .22 (size of the pellet)

    Shot between Jan/23/2015 to literally just now – these were the best I got out of 24 targets –

    http://tinyurl.com/k9r7p5p

    Top left – my best – have not been able to replicate it – this is about as good I have got on my Weihrauch HW95 – except with the HW95 the group would be on the central spot (perhaps I may need to re-zero the scope on the Benj NP2?)

    The reason I show this, is not to show off – but to point out it would be highly UNlikely to get a tight group like this, if the gun was not accurate, or under-par.

    Like I have always maintained, the biggest variable is very unlikely to be the gun – but the shooter ie: me.

    Bottom right is more typical – that is 3 shot group in the center, with two not so good shots.

    This shows I am closing in getting tighter 5-shot groups –
    so perhaps getting the hang of shooting this Benjamin Trail NP2.

  21. Hello B.B.! I don’t have time to read through comments and each section of your review so i thought I’d ask a specific question (that may have already been answered)… In this gun I have been told that 14-16 grain bullets work best for a straight trajectory of the pellet (as in I won’t have to compensate and aim above my target but just directly at it). Now I was wondering, in your experience with this gun, did 18-20 grain pellets work well? Did they have more FPE even with the reduced FPS? And how fast would this gun shoot those pellets?… Thanks in advance!

    • While I don’t have experience with gas-strut “springs”, I suspect they act similar to the more common coil spring guns… If so, the gun probably produces about the same energy over a small range of pellet weights, and then drop in energy and velocity when the pellet weight goes over some limit (which has to be determined using a chronograph to get the velocity and computing the energy).

      My RWS/Diana m54 tends to be an 18 ft-lb gun from 14-18 grain, but drop in a 22gr and the energy drops to 14 ft-lb or less.

      The heavier pellets, even within the power-curve, will have a lower velocity, and that will result in more arc in the trajectory compared to the lighter ones.

  22. Jordan,

    Welcome top the blog.

    It’s a given that heavier pellets develop less power than light ones in spring guns. So the lighter pellets will be more powerful.

    As for velocity, it’s more than just a factor of weight. It’s also how well they fit the bore. Without a chronograph anything you say is no more than a guess.

    B.B.

  23. Thanks B.B.! One more question. Been reading reviews about this air gun and the biggest gripe seems to be the plastic piece at the end of the shroud. How would one prevent the “cracking” that happens on the plastic piece? Some people have said to loctite it but would that not make the piece a permanent fixture? Any help would be great as this is my only concern. I don’t want the shroud to break on me. If you have any suggestions on how to handle the gun or attach the shroud that would be wonderful. Thank you!!

    • Jordan,

      Yeah, I read a couple comment like that, but I have had two and haven’t seen the need to do anything. I think that a couple guns may have cracked but I don’;t think it is a real problem.

      So do nothing but shoot the rifle. If anything fails, Crosman will back it up.

      I have found over the years that fixing guns that aren’t broken often is worse than just using them.

      B.B.

  24. Haha, sounds like an astute analysis. So if anything just call up crosman with proof of purchase and they’ll fix it if I send it in? That’s great, in the process of seeing those reviews I also saw people raving about their customer service, I’m glad you feel the same way: thanks so much B.B.! That little detail was worrying me.

  25. Hello, I’m new to the blog and wasn’t sure if I should post here, under the relevant item – NP2, even though it is years old …. or should I be posting under a current blog entry? Anyway … my post is regarding the NP2 so I thought I’d post it here.

    I bought an NP2 Phoenix (same engine – different stock) in .22 and I’m pretty pleased with the power and how easy it is to cock. However my groups have been all over the place – sometimes a tight group and then sometimes very large. I’ve experimented a lot with the hold and I finally decided it was the rifle itself.

    I read in your reviews that the break barrel seems to keep straight even though the pivot is very floppy. But mine had a very big side to side wiggle. So I tightened up the pivot until it just barely drags a little and that stopped my side to side movement – pellets are hitting consistently on the side to side but are still spreading vertically.

    So I looked at the “chisel” point that locks the barrel in place. It still has the machine marks from cutting the angle of the chisel. These are like little steps – and maybe it was by design (hoping that it would always stick on the same step?) but it seems like a bad design to me — I polished up the edge of that chisel where it contacts the round bar to lockup the barrel. I filed the ridges smooth and then sanded through all the grades of wet-dry up to 3000 grit (polished like glass). The chisel can now slide smoothly across the round bar to lockup the barrel more tightly (my POI was now about 4 inches higher than before) So far I am getting very tight groups now – the hold does make a difference but if I use the same hold for each shot, the pellets will go to the same place now and that is something new for this gun.

    • Hi, I seem to be having the same issues you described with my new NP2… sometimes I’ll get a tight group, and then I’ll be all over the place. I’m fairly new to air rifles, so I have no idea what you mean when you say things like ” tightened up the pivot until it just barely drags a little”. Any chance you or someone else could explain this the way you would to a child? Or maybe make or link to a youtube video that shows these things? Thanks!

      • Chrisstpeter,

        You are asking another reader a question and he mentioned that he did not understand the NP2 mechanism, either. We have the blind asking directions from the blind, here.

        The NP2 has a pivot pin that cannot be tightened. Some guns have a pivot bolt that can be tightened, bit no0t the NP2. That is a weakness in the design. You just need to shoot it as it comes from the factory.

        It is possible to bend the barrel jaws to tighten the pivot, but you need to know how to disassemble the rifle to do that. I do not recommend it for you.

        B.B.

        • My mistake, I was replying to AndyPanda, I did not see where he mentioned not understanding it! See, here I thought I was smart… I took my rifle apart, and by pivot I thought he was talking about the screw/ pin that the barrel pivots on when you break it, so I tightened that up a bit, lol. Oh well. I’ll just have to work on my shooting then 🙂 My only real experience with weapons comes from my time in the army, and most of that time I had an M249, and you really have to hold that sucker tight! So I’ll keep putting shots down range and improve my hold, hopefully my shot groups will tighten up that way. Thanks for the VERY fast response, by the way!

  26. Hi, i have this rifle with the scope u mentioned which centerpoint doesnt manufacture anymore, 3-9x40ao with no reticles. However this scope is too heavy making the rifle nearly impossible to hit a target beyond say 15 yards maybe or even less. I always use a bench anyway, now my question is that the menu that comes with the scope says to zero at 15 yarda, but the riflws range is way more than that what do you say shall i zero on than range n try to predict mybhita on longer range? Especially that the scope is not mildotted. What is the best pellets tobuse with the rifle? Mine lkves the 18.1 gr of jsb…thanks

    • bassdam,

      Welcome to the blog.

      If there is a worse range that 15 yards at which to zero a rifle, I don’t know what it is. Nothing else will be zeroed if you use that distance. Try 20 yards, and I think your pellet will be on for the next 5 yards or so.

      B.B.

  27. New to the blog, new to the airgun world. Have the Benjamin Trail and have shot through about two tins so far, About to clean for the first time, but suddenly accuracy went out, raised about 12-5 inches, no scope adjustments., was very accurate before. Any suggestions? Cleaning thoroughly help that? Thanks

    • Dan,

      =Welcome to the blog.

      This doesn’t sound like a problem of barrel cleaning. It sounds like a scope that has let go (failed). If you had open sights I would suggest trying them.

      Is the elevation up toward the top of its adjustment range? It sounds like the erector tube has suddenly started to float.

      B.B.

    • Earlier in this report series, BB found that the inner core of the barrel shroud can work loose and partially obstruct the muzzle. If this is what happened to your gun, it would get hit by pellets and throw them to another impact point. Maybe you could try checking by removing the shroud and see if that inner core is correctly screwed into place & not obstructing the muzzle?

    • Dan1959,

      “New scope,… elevation knob is maxed out”. Aside from anything else, that is (already) a problem. Never max it out. 3/4 at most. As B.B. and Clicky have eluded to, there may be/is other issues at play here.

      Barrel droop most likely. Interested in learning more? Bring this up on the current blog (or here), but the current blog will get you the most answers. Very few will ever see this.

      Best wishes,…. Chris

  28. I know this was reported earlier, it just seems like a very important design feature that needs more attention than it received in this report series. The piston braking system is why I’m seriously considering buying one of these NP2 rifles

    The ‘Patent Pending’ status that was marked on the side of the test guns here is referring to the US patent #9,562,738, which was finally granted to Crosman on Feb 7th, 2017. In this patent, Crosman calls this their ‘Split Compression Piston’

    In the attached pic, #110 is the bushing for the braking system. The cone shape for the piston skirt helps to expand the bushing at the end of the compression stroke

    I think there’s an important consequence in this braking system for anyone who might try altering the gun for faster piston speeds. The braking system may fight such efforts, if the piston is slowing down at it’s normal rate much earlier in the compression stroke. That means the brakes will be applied much too soon for a hotter setup

    So that means the bushing will need to be changed in some manner, like if an aftermarket gas cartridge with adjustable pressure is installed. There’s another design point that would be a cautionary detail – the piston head is stabilized by the front of the gas ram

    I’m only looking into such details as I’m pondering how this NP2 technology can be applied to other spring piston setups. I see that the bushing is very much a tuned component that works as a part of the entire piston & ram assembly. Other than changing the bushing design to work for another setup, I see no reason why this wouldn’t be a benefit to a coil spring, or any other gas ram

    • Clicky,

      Too long in the week to give that much study. There IS some stuff going on in there for sure. The “braking” feature might be there to control shot cycle/slap. Smoother,… in other words. I do not know.

      Chris

      Why not post this on the current blog? Few will see this and maybe could have chimed in with additional thoughts. Just an idea.

      Also,… maybe address to whom you are commenting to. It really helps to keep things straight(er). 😉

      • Chris,

        Sure! And sorry for not name dropping, I’m more used to forums that keep things organized

        Been so focused on looking for gas ram insights, I didn’t note that previous comment is a year back this month, oh well!

        There’s pretty much nothing useful on the web via search engines. I think there’s pretty much nobody talking about building gas rams

        But I’m sure BB sees all

        • Clicky,

          WHAT? “We” are not organized? 😉 Hey,…. it works (most of the time). The main thing is that you are a free thinker with things on the ball. So,… this is a good place to toss out ideas and theories. As you may/might/maybe have surmised already, there is people here with some very in depth and widely varied technical backgrounds. Not a bad crowd to hang with if you are into “inventing” things. Just sayin’. 🙂

          On the other hand,…. there may be some very specific gas ram development blogs out there to be found. Then again,… maybe not. 🙂

          Chris

          • Chris,

            The users seem very organized, it’s the forum’s website design I meant to address. On other forums, when commenting to a previous post, the quoted comment is usually auto-inserted into the new reply, along with previous owners nick & they are notified of such with a link to the new comment. This tends to preserve the comment history, so it’s not necessary to drill back upwards to get the context when threads become very long-winded like some of mine

            I’ve been looking for gas ram blogs, I don’t think there is such a thing. Maybe in custom dune buggy circles? It certainly doesn’t look like BB has done any exposes on the history & state of the art of gas ram design. Which is kinda unfortunate seeing how prevalent these simple devices are becoming

            Just this miracle of never leaking, that’s a thing I don’t take for granted until I have examined the piston seals under a microscope!

            And knowing how other things are done, I would suspect that there must be differing choices in gas ram design that would affect things like longevity, performance curves vs temperature. I can’t believe that all gas rams use the same exact material for the seals. I haven’t seen any industrial guidelines to establish a standard like that. Such a publication would answer a lot of my questions

            • Clicky,

              No doubt,.. you can benefit from tech. talk on other blogs (high performance dune buggy suspension tuning and customization), for example. I think most inventors utilize cross-over tech. in new product development.

              By the way,… have you tried the simple (multi layer?) alum. foil “disc” idea in a springer yet. Fps up? Fps down? Simple test. I would have but I have no springers or break barrels.

              Chris

              • Chris,

                I would have tested that by now if I still had anything to test on

                That’s why I’m looking into building a springer. Not sure why it had to be so darn big now! My little lathe is not capable of turning out much more than end caps & plug inserts for this project

                Besides, I have a feeling that the diameter of such a burst disk would be too small for a typical material. Consider using saran wrap over the breech seal, without scoring. I think that should break reliably, and the debris wont do any lasting damage. But it places the pressure front right at the weakest point in the system, the breech seal. And a standard ‘LGG’ always has the disk in front of the transfer port. I think part of that has to do with keeping the deadspace to a minimum. If the port must also be pressurized, then the total pressure potential will never be as high it could have been using that particular piston

                Maybe what I should be doing instead is buying a very cheap high-power springer, then chopping the front of the spring tube off to turn it into a rebuildable test bed? And I’ve already spent $30 on the project! I shouldn’t be looking at making the piston & seal, trigger or anything else. Just that transfer port

                Thinking it might not be too late to shelve the bike fork & start over

                  • Well, GF said something that clicked. And when things in my mind go ‘click’, I tend to swerve all across the road & go brush-busting for no apparent reason!

                    Now I’ve become somewhat intrigued by the Benjamin NP2 piston. I think that might contribute to a burst disk prototype. Of course, I’d want a re-fillable gas ram for that

                    But I can see my ways towards building my own version of the NP2 for a chinese gas- ram platform, providing the trigger isn’t too horrible

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