by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
Crosman’s 105 is a .177 caliber multi-pump air pistol.
This report covers:
- Test 1. How many pumps?
- Test 2. RWS Hobby pellets
- Test 3. Sig Match Ballistic Alloy pellets
- How stable?
- The pump stroke
- Pump force
- Rear sight fix
- Trigger pull
Today we look at the power and velocity of the vintage Crosman 105 Bullseye multi-pump pneumatic pistol. I said in Part 1 that I would be surprised if this pistol breaks 450 f.p.s. Well, surprise, surprise! It didn’t even go that fast. And, that is what today’s report is all about, so let’s get started.
Test 1. How many pumps?
I looked through my library and didn’t find a manual for the 105. Crosman has a PDF online, or what they call a manual, but it’s just a parts list and disassembly procedure. But in that document they do say to test your valve by filling the gun 6 pumps and then looking for bubbles around all the exit places. Oddly I found that 6 pumps is one too many for this particular gun. Let’s see now.
Crosman Premier 7.9-grain pellets
6……………….254 air remaining
7……………….241 a lot of air remaining
The first test tells us that this pistol wants no more than 5 pumps per shot. You can pump the gun with or without cocking the bolt — it makes no difference to the velocity. Also note that the velocity fell back with 7 pumps. That means the valve is locking up from too much pressure inside. Also notice that after 5 pump strokes the velocity went up slowly.
This test also demonstrates the value of a chronograph. If the gun performs this way with one pellet it should perform the same or close with all pellets. But just to find out, I conducted tests 2 and 3.
Test 2. RWS Hobby pellets
6……………….276 air remaining
Test 3. Sig Match Ballistic Alloy pellets
5……………….304 air remaining
6……………….326 more air remaining
So, the gun does act pretty much the same with other pellets, though with lighter pellets more air remains inside after the shot. That’s because a heavier pellet provides more back-pressure on the valve, keeping it open longer to exhaust more air.
To find out how stable the gun is I conducted another test. I pumped the gun the maximum number of times, which we determined was 5 strokes, and shot the same Crosman Premier Light pellet 5 times. Look at what I got.
The average was 240 f.p.s. for this string. The maximum spread went from 233 to 246 f.p.s., which is 13 f.p.s. That’s not terrible, but it’s on the high side for a multi-pump. I expected 4-5 f.p.s. maximum.
The pump stroke
Reader Siraniko asked me what kind of sound the pistol makes when pumped. I told him it’s smooth and nearly silent. But he was also asking about when the brass pump lever hits the gun at the end of the stroke. That makes a click, just like you might expect. So the 105 is not silent.
The pump force required is not that much, even with 5 strokes. It takes maybe 20 pounds of effort to close the lever at that point.
Rear sight fix
Several readers noticed that the rear sight blade is bent back and down. They guessed it was done by a former owner who was trying the bring down the shot group, because you always move the rear sight in the direction you want the shots to go.
I needed to fix this, because as it was I could not see through the notch. The adjustment screw filled the notch. Reader GunFun 1 suggested that I just remove the adjustment screw, which I did. Now I can see the front sight clearly in the notch and this is how I will test the gun for accuracy.
The trigger on this pistol is single stage and pretty stiff. It released at between 6 lbs. 3 oz. and 6 lbs. 10 oz. That is amplified by the thin trigger blade. As I mentioned in Part 1, it is a direct sear trigger and pretty easy to access and work on. I might put some moly on the contact surfaces if I decide to keep the pistol.
Am I pleased with the 105 so far? Yes, for the most part, I am. I knew it would be weak, although not quite as weak as we have seen today. Like I said in part 1, owning a vintage airgun like this is like owning a vintage car. There are quirks you need to learn and to tolerate to operate it. But it rewards you with the satisfaction of having something few other airgunners can boast. I sure hope it’s accurate!
101 thoughts on “Crosman 105 “Bullseye” multi-pump pneumatic pistol: Part 2”
I was wondering if that worked removing the sight screw.
I’m still kind of wondering why they was trying to make the shots hit lower. I guess we will see when you get to the accuracy test.
Yes, and that will be on Monday, so we will all know.
Good I’ll be waiting to see how that goes. The pistol is cool. But the mystery of the bent sight keeps me wondering why.
It seems that the general consensus is that one of the previous owners of this pistol intentionally bent the rear sight over. Could it not have just as easily been bent in this manner unintentionally as the result of having been dropped? If a previous owner had done this intentionally “he” would have removed the screw so as to see the sights and the screw would likely not be there.
I think you are going to find this pistol shoots pretty low.
Someone brought that up in part one about it being dropped and got bent.
And going back and looking at the pictures in part 1. To me it looks like the sight got bent back pretty equally. If it was dropped you wouldn’t think it would of fell and hit that true.
I still think someone intentionally bent it. And bringing that up. Since it did bend without cracking. I’m betting it can be bent back without cracking. I’m thinking it’s soft brass that was used.
You may be right about it being soft brass. If mine I would try heating it and straightening it.
Yep on the heating. A simple propane torch would do.
Don’t want to melt. Only heat the metal enough to bend.
Well at least it looks pretty…….
I’m hoping this pistol was dropped square, bending the rear sights evenly. Then BB finds out why air is escaping too soon and repairs it. New velocity high is 450 fps but at 6 pumps. Best of all accuracy is comparable to a 1377 and moly gets applied to the sear. Pistol becomes a keeper and Ridgerunner will have to hope for another pistol to show up.
Have fun at Sig. Looking forward to your Sig reports.
And how about this 105.
It sure is making us think isn’t it. 🙂
Don’t you be encouraging BB. I only have one air pistol at RidgeRunner’s Home For Wayward Airguns. This one is interesting enough to find a home here.
And you know what. What is the piston seal made of on this older pistol. Is it leather like old springers? Don’t think you mentioned.
I didn’t look inside so I don’t know what the seal is. I will look into it, but I would think synthetic for a multi-pump.
Good. Definitely want to know what they used on a multi-pump back then.
But here’s my other thought. If it is indeed synthetic. Then why the heck didn’t they do that on springers back then?
The pump cup operates differently than a piston seal. The materials were not there yet for springers.
The thought that crossed my mind was that the European gun makers were stuck on the leather seals for springers back then. Kind of like Diana and the so called drooper barrel thing. Their minds we’re set that it was a proven way to do things. Why would they change? It worked for that time.
So that makes me think if multiple types of things were available to use. They only used what they knew worked at that time. And why wouldn’t they if it was proven.
But now as time had passed we see that synthetic does work in springers.
Oh and it’s very simple to see if your 105 is leather or synthetic. Take a needle and scratch the seal very lightly back away from the open cupped area. If it scratches and frays it’s leather. If it makes a fine line it’s synthetic. And it only takes a little spot about .010″ long to see. Which will not affect the performance of the seal.
And another thing is. Why would it matter if leather was used in a pump gun as a seal?
Well, leather is different. I will be testing a Benjamin 700 soon that was made in the 1930s and does have a leather pump seal. I will talk about i9t them, if that’s okay.
Bottom line is leather works, but not as well in pump cups. Think of old hydraulic jacks.
Yep that will be a good topic to include with that gun.
Or should I say Cool stuff period. 🙂
Perhaps it was due to the high heat that is generated in a sproinger. The earlier synthetic seals worked for a time, but then deteriorated.
They just weren’t ready yet.
That could be true.
This is very curious with regard to the number of pumps. As I mentioned before, mine was the model 106 in .22 caliber. I knew nothing about it before I bought it; but I knew that while my Sheridan manual said 8 pumps was the maximum for my rifle, friends with Crosman 760s told me that 10 pumps was the maximum for them; ditto for those with 1377 pistols. Hence, I never pumped the 106 more than 10 times. Yet, at 10 pumps, it did exhaust all the air. However, while it certainly seemed to have more power at 10 pumps than it did at 6, I did not have a chronograph back then to verify that, which only goes to prove, once again, your mantra, “All airgunners should have a chronograph!” I’m with you on that now. =D
Wishing you sage travels home,
GF1 – Off topic
I believe the AV Steel Storm HPA Adapter could be made to work with the DPMS SBR M4 Carbine.
Since the mag does not separate like the Steel Storm for installation ( 3 screws ) I ‘Believe’ you could drill out and tap the CO2 cartridge tightening screw and then cut it in half and use it like an engine valve spring ‘Split Collet’ to retain the CO2 replacement tube in the mag.
The benefit would be what ? Cost of CO2, and a little higher power which would be even greater with my longer 24″ barrel set up. But you would still have to remove the mag and fill it with BBs every 25 shots or so since there is no bulk storage in the DPMS.
Now if you did the conversion to a few mags, just purchasing the CO2 cartridge replacement tube alone from P/A you could just do a quick mag swap and clip on the hose or return to CO2 operation with a simple mag swap.
Long term you may wear out the rifles action faster.
My thought is I’m already set up for multiple guns using the regulated HPA bottle.
It would be a way to get hundreds of shots off a fill. Plus more consistent shots.
And the action is going to wear out anyway at some point in time.
It was just a thought if someone is set up for HPA already, and to know it’s a option if you want to go there.
Have you ever heard of the Drodz Black bird or Bumble bee? I knw they ain’t a replica gun broker t they still achieve the fun factor of full auto. And very modifyable. And to think about it. Makes me wonder if anybody tryed HPA with them.
And as you can tell. I do really like full auto. 🙂
And this should be.
“I knw they ain’t a replica gun broker t they still achieve the fun factor of full auto.”
I know they ain’t a replica gun but they still achieve the fun factor of full auto.
With the Crosman manual setting 6 pumps as the test pressure and with your gun holding air after firing at that pressure while providing such a low velocity, when coupled with Thedavemyster’s recollections about his Model 106, wouldn’t that point to a weakened striker spring that has taken a set over the years? I would expect that the 6 pumps is not the max allowed for the gun, just a good point at which to test the valve. Also, as similar to a 1377 as the gun seems to be, I would expect a higher velocity.
Or the seal or spring that holds the pumped up pressure in the chamber or small resivoir that will get transferred to the barrel is week.
That will also allow blow by.
If it won’t hold what you pump then anything before it like the pump seal condition or fit to the pump tube is just waisted energy when pumping.
So basically each pump stroke can’t bleed out of the compression chamber either.
Not sure what you mean. I think the air in the knock open valve is not all being released because it is not being hit hard enough by the striker.
Where the air enters the valve on each pump there is usually a check valve of sort that allows the pressure to be held in the valve.
If that check valve leaks it will end up in the compression tube. You have the area between the valve body and the piston head. Or the head space as it’s called. That could let some of your pump pressure escape. So the valve will have lower pressure for the shot then it’s suppose to.
What could be done is pump the gun up today to say 4 pumps. Then chrony it. Then pump the gun up 4 pumps and let it set 24 hrs. then chrony again and see if velocity is lower or the same. But that’s what I was getting at.
I see what you’re saying, now, but that wouldn’t really account for the air remaining in the valve after firing.
As for air remaining in the valve,….
1) pumping is done
2) the trigger is pulled
3) at,.. which point the valve is (open) and all of the pressure is in the process of trying to equalize,…. while at the same time the pellet is moving down the barrel,… thus dropping all of the stored pressure in (both) the valve and the air behind the pellet
4) at some point, the air pressure drops below the pressure of the valve return spring,.. and the valve closes
That could be at any point, as the pellet travels down the barrel (OR) when the pellet leaves the barrel. Either way, the valve is storing more air than what is needed, up and to the point, when the valve closes.
That is my take on the topic, at any rate,….. Chris
You have described the firing cycle of a gun using a knock open valve exactly as I understand it to operate, so there is no disagreement on that point.
I still think, in this case, that more pumps should be possible and the additional air should all be dumped, resulting in a higher, more usable velocity, if the striker spring was in newer condition or if the striker had a proper cleaning and lube job.
It’s just my theory, and it’s based, in part, on Thedavemyster’s recollection of pumping his 106 ten times and not having any air left in the valve afterwards. Maybe BB can stretch the spring and test the theory or, at least weigh in on its feasibility when he gets back from his field trip.
Sure. The striker spring is weak.
Yep spring pressure of the striker definitely plays a part of the air released for the shot.
And did the gun do that when new is another thing that comes to mind.
Maybe they don’t have a big enough opening in the tteanafwr poet.
With a pump gun you want all your air to dump as fast as it can.
Your not trying for shot count like a Co2 gun or pcp.
big enough opening in the transfer port.
I liked the tteanafwr poet.
Off subject, I took out my old Daisy C200 today to blow the dust out of her. Put in a fresh c02 cart and never heard a hiss as I tighten of the screw. I then tired to shoot it. Nothing. I unscrewed the C02 cart and would you believe, no gas. I’m over 50 years old and have never had a new C02 cart with no gas in it. Kind of funny. Anyone ever had that happen before?
Back in the days of the bottlecap cartridges I got that about a quarter to a third of the time. But I have never heard of a welded cartridge being empty.
First for me for sure.
Never had that happen with the modern cartridges.
Sounds like one made it down the line when a fault happened on the assembly line. Made it past without stopping at the fill station.
Hmm wonder if that was operator error or machine error at the Co2 filling plant?
It’s a machine error, because those cartridges are filled, welded and lettered so fast an operator can’t see it. The line is huge and fully automated.
Ok wasn’t sure of how the process works.
So kind of like a assembly line filling breverage cans but more complicated.
Always amazes me the things that go on behind the scene that we don’t see.
Here’s a video of the whole process. Pretty interesting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cu2ik8nWnMI
Thanks for the video. I’ll have to watch it tomorrow.
Very good video.
Alot of the equipment and process is very similar to what I have used throughout time at the machine shop I have worked at.
Automation is cool. But it’s got to be maintained. That’s the thing about getting into the maintenance department at a shop. You will never be out of work.
Gun fun, I agree. I used to work at a baby food factory. I have seen a perfectly labeled jars come down the line that was just full of air. Same with antifreeze and bottles of gear oil now. Open a case and find an empty jug.
I have on occasion experienced some that were not well charged and once I too have had an empty cylinder. I wish I had realized it before I pierced it as that would have been an interesting but valueless collectable.
Once I figured out the cart was empty (and not my gun having valve lock or something) my first thought was hey, I’ll keep it as a collector. Followed by Duh, you’ve pierced it knuckle head.
Just thought of something. The mag for this rifle is set up to use the left CO2 cartridge first. I imagine there is a sliding valve that transfers to the second (RT) cartridge later. In the pic the cartridge is actually punctured and pressurized but nothing comes out of the right side with a missing cartridge.
Soo … If you install the HPA adapter in the right side of the mag you could actually have a permanent ‘DUAL’ power source for the mag. Use CO2 on the left and nothing will escape from the disconnected air tube on the right. To use the high pressure air tube on the right simply install a used, empty CO2 cartridge in the left side to plug it off.
Forgot to mention you would also need to drill an open slot in the bottom of the plastic CO2 access cover to let it snap on over the HPA tube that sticks out. May get by with an elongated hole?
Yes exactly what I’m talking about.
Think of all the possible Airguns that could use High Pressure Air instead of CO2 if that ‘Split Collet’ modification to the CO2 installation screw actually works out.
Someone could even make up an entirely new air tube that just screws into the original threads of the CO2 tightening screw. May need a few variations in thread size to fit everything. Talk about saving money.
You don’t know how many times I said that.
That’s also what I look at when I get a Co2 gun. I want to be able to have the option.
You should do a review of this: https://newatlas.com/spyra-one-squirt-gun/55647/
I bet it is more accurate than some of the BB guns you have been testing lately.
Hope NH is cooler than Texas….
New Hampshire was 20 degrees cooler than Texas. Wetter, but cooler.
Watched the video. Pretty cool. Looks like it won’t hurt you when it hits by what the video shows at the beginning. The girl gets hit in the back and turns around smiling. But you never know if the video is showing the truth as usual.
Looks like a modern updated water gun to me. But all in all still a cool design.
B.B., you went to sig. I am patiently waiting to hear more about their new break barrel, unless you said something and I missed it lol.
I plan to start my report on Monday. It won’t be clear at that time, but as the story unfolds, things will clear up.
Bottom line, we have a world-beater coming!
Got me “chompin at the bit”.
I am so excited about this that I can hardly contain myself. Finally, someone has done it right!
So it would seem. Looking forwards to your take on the new offering. I like new. I like innovative. I like well thought out quality.
My advice is to start saving your pennies. 😉
I have become a pretty hard core PCP man. You are going to have to go WAY over and above to convince me of going springer/gas ram/whatever it is,….. 😉
Besides,…. I recently blew all my “pennies”,…… 😉
Arrrrrghhhh!,…. is there no end to the new temptations!!!!! 🙂
You did it again. Now the wait starts……
Ahhhh, always a “new and improved”. That is a good thing if indeed it really is improved. In the world of automobiles, new and improved can be just a fluff and buff, not a substantial improvement. I admit that I’m impressed with the P-250 that I own and am doing some generalizing that the airguns will be as well thought out and built. Here’s hoping.
Ahhhh,… yes. For a springer, or gas ram,… I think that recoil elimination would at the forefront. Hatsan seems to have been on the most innovative curve as of late.
Also,… mention of a well matched scope pairing. FFP? Perhaps,…..?
So did you get to spend some shooting time with your Daystate today?
The weather and wind was great today here. But had to get some brush trimming done today and grass cutting.
Only shot about 20 shots each through the FWB 300, Gauntlet, Maximus and Condor SS today. Then it was supper time.
Tomorrow I plan on getting out early and getting some shooting time in. They say it’s suppose to rain. We’ll see if they get that right. And thank goodness for the breezeway. 🙂
You should do one. Or a sun room or whatever you want to call them. Then you could shoot at will and leave things setup. No more dragging in and out.
My day was about ditto to yours. Inside and outside chores. Weather the same. I (will) be doing some AM shooting like you today.
On a sun room,.. that would be nice. An enclosed room off the front of the house would be ideal and would still be directly in line with the 100 yard lane. I shoot across the middle of the front deck now as it is. (Basically, I now shoot across the front of the house)
Option B, and cheaper, would be a slider patio door on the woods side of the house,.. or end of living room. That would shove the shooting lane start to the left about 10 feet though. There may be/would be new trees in the way?
Either way, I would loose about 25 yards off my 100 yard lane. But yes, not having to set up and tear down each time would be a BIG plus. Being single, I could leave things set up in the living room 24/7,… which hey,… it is now anyways. 😉
At any rate,… yes,.. I will be shooting the Red Wolf today.
By the way, I found that I needed to raise the (rear) of the MTM shooting rest for closer work (25-30). I glued in some riv-nuts in the rear feet holes and now have two 3/8″ jack bolts with knob heads that will work great. At full in, they raised it 5/8″. The front post/rest already has about 4″ of adjustment.
Also, I added a Velcro tie down strap to put over the gun while sitting in the rest. It sits fine now, but an accidental bump of the rifle, rest or my table could send the rifle on a tumble. That would be horrifying to say the very least.
That is about it on any kind of an update. Will post later today.
Nice mod to your bench rest gun holder.
And maybe you should do the sliding door addition. It is nice to not have to worry about being out in the weather.
Let us know how your shooting goes. Getting ready to shoot too.
How you doing for horse flies ? They are really swarming out in the country here right now . They attack anything that moves.
Not bad out here right now. No carpenter bee’s either for some reason. Lots of wasp’s this year though.
No carpenter bee’s either here. Some wasp, but killed their butts in the spring. Build a nest above my front door eve????,…. I think not. I like them to pollinate my tomatoes and hot peppers,…. (they do,…. right?), but I have my limits. They mind their business,.. away from me,… and we are all cool.
See bottom for latest Red Wolf update,…..
They say that wasp do indeed pollinate. But they are not as efficient as bee’s because they don’t have the hair to stick to like bee’s do.
Most CO2 BB pistols shoot at about 340-400 FPS. Then there is the Daisy Powerline 5170 that claims to shoot at 520 FPS. I realize blowback causes a drop but other non blowbacks never seem to be that high.
Is there any one thing that manufacturers would turn to to get that much of a power increase or does it usually involve a lot of parts working in combination? That particular Daisy has a inner barrel that is pushed forward with each trigger pull. Is it that particular operating system that produces that much power ?
I’m quite sure that a combination of things is needed to get high power. Anics was a Russian airgun company with BB pistols that shot over 500 f.p.s. and they used the moving barrel as their striker. It may have helped with the power, but cost them accuracy, so it was a tradeoff. And they also had revolvers with fixed barrels that went that fast, too, so there is more to it.
Well curiosity got the best of me so I looked into the Daisy Powerline 5170 pistol. The barrel is what strikes the air valve and there is actually no seal involved.
Once the spring loaded barrel assembly slips off the trigger it returns to capture a BB from the mag. There is a short air tube protruding from the brass air valve right behind the BB that effectively pushes a BB into the returning barrel and continues into it for about 3/16″. Then the barrel bottoms out on the valve and the impact is enough to open and fire it.
Looks like a very efficient way to utilize all the CO2 and I’ll bet a few washers added to the barrel spring would increase power even more. But it may unseat the air valve at some point when the pressure gets low. The pistol came from Japan.
Those zinc blocks forward of the trigger guard and behind the mag housing are just weights. There is also a weight in the attached compensator that also centers the barrel.
PS: Had an unexpected surprise looking into this pistol. The Weaver quad rail unit that came with it actually slides into a hidden dovetail on top of the slide ( See pic ) and it seems to hold sights just fine.
.25 Red Wolf update,….
A good day.
1st up (5 different pellet accuracy test at 30 yards) JSB 25.39’s won out at 7/16″, 5 shots. None of the 5 were over 3/4″,… so not too pellet picky.
2nd up (windage check at 25/39/50) 25 and 39 spot on, 50 was 1″ to the left. (?)
Note: My POI was 3/8″ low to my original sight in at 39. Huh? I then realized that I had done the sight in (without) the Huggett moderator, which I was now using. I re-did the Sportsmatch adjustable rings and was spot on again. Very nice rings. Very positive movements/adjustments.
As a side note,… I refilled to 3625, from 2987 (638 diff.) and the shot raised 3/8″.
3rd up was the (magazine -vs- shot tray test) 30 yards, 25.39 JSB’s, 10 shots ea.
Magazine = 5/8″
Tray = 1/2″
Finally,… I decided to keep shooting to 1) See where the “low pressure” warning came on at, and 2) To see where I had a noticeable POI impact/drop -vs- tank pressure. 30 yards, 25.39 JSB’s, tray.
At this point I had 16 shots from the prior test,.. 20 shots from the mag. -vs tray test,…. so 36 total from a 3625 fill.
I shot 40 (more) shots at a new bull and ended up with a group that was 3/4″. I could not even see the group enlarge from the bottom because the drop was that slow/gradual.
So,… 76 shots total and it still had not dropped off in any noticeable manner. Fill spread for a 3/4″ group was 1334 (3625 ~ 2291) which works out to a 17.5 psi drop per shot.
The “low pressure” indicator came on sometime between 2465 and 2291.
I believe this speaks well of the electronic regulator system.
The MTM rest is awesome and raising and lowering to POA is insane easy and accurate. Plenty steady as well.
The Athlon FFP scope continues to impress. Even at 24 mag.,…. as long as the target is in some descent light. Clear as a bell. The FFP is holding POI very well, despite changing mag. levels over extremes,… which is what it is supposed to do. Same holdovers used. It goes to 34 mag..
Sorry for the long post,… but much was learned today and I wanted to share. More to discover,….. Chris
Great information! Have been looking forward to your post on the Red Wolf. Appears to be a very accurate airgun from what you have posted. I will say that my Gamo Urban is very accurate out at 30 yards too. I was able to shoot 28 of 30 shots into a group less than 1/2″. Including the other 2 shots, it opened up to .74″. I am pretty happy with that performance. I still have not set up to shoot at longer than the 30 yards though :(.
I am guessing you have a lot of money wrapped up in your Daystate and FFP scope. It’s a real beauty though.
I (think),… it is still “breaking in”. I am seeing more and more,.. pellet on pellet shots. The front and rear rest are a bit “grippy”,… and the gun does have some notable push back. I may have to refine the rest “slippage” a bit?
28 of 30 into 1/2″ is awesome at 30 yards. You can not ask for better than that.
On money,…. well,… lets just say that I should not be buying another air gun for awhile. On the plus side, it was paid for when I ordered it. Good saver, live simple,…. remember? 😉 x3 Plus, there is nothing lacking. I am not sure what I would ever get that could match it.
Hopefully it will get better,… or I will find a better pellet. “We” are still getting to know one another. 🙂
Only suspect at this point,… but it may shoot better than I do. That said,…. with the rest and high mag… I have pretty well run out of any excuses. It may be down to the point of splitting hairs. I may try pellet weigh and head sort again. I know for sure that after 5 hole in hole shots and 1 flier,… it was not me. The very steady rest front and rear makes me confident enough to say that.
Trigger pull, while not measured yet, is in ounces. There is no way to “pull” a shot from trigger pressure. Like I said,… out of any excuses.
More to learn,.. Chris
All sounds good. What was your 50 yard group size?
I only shot 50 for a few shots when I was checking the windage tracking at 25,39 and 50. I was checking other pellet types, shot count, tray -vs- mag., and other things. The only groups I shot were the tray -vs- mag. test and the 40 shot final bull. I posted the sizes of those above. I kept it at 30 yards for the good light and the ability to use higher mags.,….. 24 in that case.
The really dark woods is an issue. If you remember, I actually strapped a good LED flashlight to a target pole to shine on the target in the past. Plus, I never shot above 12 mag. in the past. (usually 7-10). 16 a couple of times when the leaves were off the trees in the spring. The scope is so good at higher mags., that I hate not to use it.
At 50, I would expect at least 1″ or better.
I do not have a smart phone, so the conversion apps. are of no use, but thanks anyways. The rest is working (really) well.
That front lens cap is interesting and may work. I had to deal with sun haze for about 1 hour yesterday and even made a 12″ front tube out of a manila file folder. What made the biggest difference is reducing the light at the ocular lens. The UTG eye cup did not work, but I definitely want to get one that will. I will have to go on the hunt for something. While the gun was rested in the rest, I used my hands to cup around the lens and my eye,…. and the difference was huge.
If you have access to plastic drinking straws you can simulate the honeycomb effect. Using your manila file folder front tube fill it with plastic drinking straws so that light can pass through the straws into the objective bell of the scope. It should reduce the glare with the trade off of requiring more light at the target.
BRILLIANT!!!!! I will try that. Thank you. I will see what I can come up with. I am thinking about 1/4″ ~ 1/2″ thick and 1/4″ diameter straws. I have been racking my brain all day what to use.
Now,…. the BIG question,….. have you tried it?,.. and if so,… how well does it work? It will be a bit of work, but I am totally willing to put the effort into it.
As you may have read from my post recently and in the past,… I have found the ocular lens eye cup to be the most beneficial to me (by far). Way far.
Just my take on the matter,… but much more attention is given to the front end of the scope, when I have found the biggest benefit to come from the rear end. Well,… so far,.. at any rate. 🙂
Thanks again,…. Chris
I think I’m going to have to get me one of the FFP scopes. Sound like it would work real good for my shooting conditions. And a eye cup and one of those front honeycomb light filters. Oh and a sun shield.
It just don’t end does it. 🙂
It don’t!!!!! 😉
That sounds awesomely accurate, and fun, with a lot of shots per fill. Unfortunately I’m working today, even double time isn’t compensation enough on a nice day like this. Wish I were shooting too!
Have you ever tried?,… or know anything about (how well) these “honeycomb” lens covers work?
This would be for consideration as an addition to a scope front tube/bell extension (OR) in place of.
I’ve never tried them but it’s easy to see how they work. They should works well.
When you get some let us know how they work. I have thought about getting them to keep the glare from flashing off the lens and scaring off the pest I’m after.
A most exellent post Ted. You have a lot of good useful information in your red wolf update.
I have a thought to pass on about a covered shooting location. Before it got too full of stuff, I could set up and shoot out of my Suncast garden shed. It gave me my longest lane because it is in a corner of the lot. I thought I would mention it because it is less work than putting in a patio door.
Good idea. In Ohio though, it would be somewhat limited in seasonal usage. 3-ish season maybe? I have a 10×12 stick built shed, but is next to the house and not in line with the shooting lane. They do make some real nice ones these days. Kind of like mini-houses, complete with covered porches.
Someone awhile back was putting up a tent type/canopy shelter,… but I forget who that was now.
I know it does not match the comfort of a posters breezway but it would increase the number of shooting days. Also you could use it to keep the mower out of the elements.
On the Red Wolf,… all of those “exact” numbers may look impressive,… considering we are used to small gauges. The digital read out reads out in (Bar),… which does nail down a specific #. From that,.. I multiply by 14.5 per bar to come up with a psi reading. The digital seems to be accurate as it matches my dual gauge guppy tank. The digital gauge seems accurate enough in that it will (bounce) 1 bar,… like between 231 and 232.
That’s one of the links I got saved on my phone. Just type in what bar or psi your after and your done. Also got a temperature link that converts Celcius to Farenheit since my China compressor has a Celcius gauge.
Here’s both links.
I just found this discussion and want to ask a question to all of you regarding the 105.
I have an older model (two holes in lever) that I inherited from my dad. When I got it, the roll pin and screw had been replaced with an ugly, flathead galvanized screw and nut – functional but just vile to look at. I have tried in vain to find a replacement and have seen plenty for newer Crosman models on eBay etc.
Can anyone suggest a source to obtain a compatible roll pin/screw set for this gun?
I am in SF Bay area
Welcome to the blog.
Of course there are no parts for these old airguns anymore — short of scrounging them from other guns.
Your gun did not have roll pins. The pin you need it a plain pin with knurling on one side to hold it tight in the gun. You’ll have to make one.