by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
The Beeman R8 looks like a baby R1.
This report covers:
- RWS Hobby
- Shot cycle
- RWS Superdome
- Trigger pull
- JSB Exact RS
- How does this rifle compare?
- Cocking effort
Well, to say there is a lot of interest in the Beeman R8 would be an understatement! Just as I got a huge interest at the Findlay airgun show where I bought it, this blog has also revealed many shooters who are interested in both the R8 and in the current HW50S that I will now have to test for you. [Update on that. my friend, Mac, did test an HW50S back in 2010.]
I was very excited to test this rifle because it’s one of the smoothest breakbarrels I have every shot. That list includes my Tyrolean R8 and the RWS Diana 45 I tuned for Johnny Hill. Let’s get right to the test.
First up was the RWS Hobby — the pellet I thought would be the fastest. When the R8 was current Beeman advertised the .177 version at 735 f.p.s. — a slight increase over where they rated the HW50S (705 f.p.s.). They listed the .177 R7 right at 700 f.p.s. They didn’t specify the pellet used to get those numbers, but the Hobby is a time-honored speed king among lead pellets.
The R8 I am testing shot 10 Hobbys at an average 523 f.p.s.. The spread went from a low of 515 to a high of 542 f.p.s., a range of 27 f.p.s. That’s pretty slow on the average and high on the spread. Something seems to be up.
The shot cycle is glass-smooth. I now think that’s due to all the grease we saw in the gun In Part 1, because these numbers are not what I expected.
Next I tried some RWS Superdomes in the rifle. They averaged 503 f.p.s., which was faster than I expected, after seeing what the Hobbys did. The spread went from 483 to 515 f.p.s. a range of 32 f.p.s. Yes, something is up with this rifle alright!
The Rekord trigger as it is adjusted on the rifle has two distinct stages and stage two breaks at 1 lb. 13 oz. That is a lot heavier than I expected. I thought it was breaking at less than one pound. That tells me the trigger is set up and adjusted very well. I plan to leave it where it it and just get used to it. Had it been less than a pound, I probably would have adjusted it heavier for safety.
JSB Exact RS
The surprise came with JSB Exact RS pellets. They averaged 645 f.p.s., even though at 7.33 grains they are heavier than Hobbys. That tells me this rifle doesn’t like Hobbys — probably because they are too big at the skirt.
The spread went from 628 to 657 f.p.s., which is 29 f.p.s., so even this pellet is not that consistent with the tune that’s in this rifle.
How does this rifle compare?
So, how does this R8 compare to my Tyrolean R8? In that rifle, RWS Hobbys average 721 f.p.s., compared to the 523 f.p.s. of this rifle And the spread with Hobbys in the Tyrolean is 40 f.p.s., so that one is not too stable, either.
With JSB Exact RS the Tyrolean gets 718 f.p.s. on average with a 9 f.p.s spread from 712 to 721 f.p.s. I think it’s clear this R8 is no performing up to spec. and I think the heavy grease has something to do with it. Maybe the rifle needs a new breech seal, too. I will explore all of that in the future.
This rifle cocks with 25 lbs. of effort, as measured on my bathroom scale. The R8 Tyrolean also cocks with 25 lbs. effort, so I think the springs in both guns are equivalent.
I will shoot the R8 for accuracy at 10 meters next, but that’s mostly for fun. After that I’ll tear it apart and see what we have. Is it just a lube tune or has more been done? We shall see!
73 thoughts on “Beeman R8: Part 2”
A question for the entire blog community………
I have a 1987 Diana Model 45 (.177) that is in need of a rebuild. I’ve been told it has the leather piston seal.
It is currently shooting 7.9 Boxed Premiers at around 680 fps over the chrony.
I believe it should be in the 850 – 900 fps range.
Rob at SpringGunTunes works on Diana 45s, but only if it has the T01 trigger system. Mine does not have the T01 trigger.
My trigger has 2 screws, both with straight slots. One directly behind the trigger blade that is black and a smaller one that is painted red about ½” behind the black one. The black one stands out about 3/8” from the trigger assy, the red one is screwed in past flush with the assy. I’m not sure what this trigger system is called.
I would love to get this old girl healthy again, but it’s not something that I’m comfortable with doing myself.
Can anyone recommend a tuner who might work on this rifle?
Years ago Ed Kryznowek aka ekmeister tuned a diana 45 that I sent to him. Great guy that did a great job. Last email address I have for Ed is email@example.com.
You may also want to talk to David Slade at http://www.airgunwerks.com/
I can second that David Slade does excellent work!
If you cannot find someone to rebuild it, let me know.
Here is a link that may help ID your trigger.
Hope this helps.
Looking forwards to the imminent tear down, especially since it is shooting below spec. It will be interesting to see how much of the lower fps is attributed to the heavy grease job, among anything else discovered.
It does indeed sound like you need to take a look inside to see what is going on. Very likely it could indeed use a little less grease in there.
Great article. FWIW-I would bet that yours has a broken spring. That is thick looking grease, I just do not think it is that thick.
B.B., looking back and reading Mac’s three part report on the HW50S, he stated that PA had two different types of them. One with open fiber optics and one with reg iron open sights. Do you know if that is still the case? The one pictured on the PA site is reg iron open sights (I think those are better).
I had a hw50s about 3 years ago I believe it was when I had it. It came with iron sights. The front was a globe with inserts and came in a little white envelope attached to the trigger guard.
Oh and mine also had that cocking arm giude that was made of some sort of plastic.
Got some interesting info about my Wildfire.
Well mine started doing the dreaded leak down. One time abrubtly then a couple times slowly overnight.
Tryed something. The Wildfire has that degassing setscrew under the gun by the fill psi gauge. Well I read the owners manual trying to see what it says about degassing and refilling.
One thing it mentions is tighten the setscrew that takes a 5/64″ Allen wrench firmly. Note the word firmly.
Well guess what mine was not tightened firmly. It might of been when I got it. I don’t know. Never checked it. Also there’s a chance with the vibrations and such going on with the double action trigger making it loosen up.
I’m thinking this is why the Wildfire might be having the leak down problem and not the 1077. Also this is a little different way to degassing than the Marauders and such. They push the striker against the valve stem forcing it open. The Wildfire has a setscrew pushing against a ball bearing.
So I think the words tighten firmly make a difference. I haven’t had any more leak downs since I tightened mine firmly. Which has now been all this week. And I will check it now from time to time.
Way to go on the fix! You might be right on the leak down issue. I do assume that you used a bit of blue Loc-Tite on the threads? Nice that it is back up and running as I know that you have been having a blast with it.
Actually no I didn’t use any thread locker of any type. Didn’t even take the stock off the gun. Just tightened the setscrew.
And when I say tighten. It wasn’t much. Not even a 1/8th of a turn with the Allen wrench. It was snug but not tight.
If you go on the PA webpage for the Wildfire you can down load the owners manual if you click on the link on the page. If I remember right it says when degassing don’t go more than 2 turns loose counterclockwise. It mentions something about the ball bearing but don’t remember exactly what. It might be something simple like it could get lost.
And I don’t think no thread locker is needed. I think a quick check here and there will help. I probably have over 3000 pellets fired through mine already. So just another air gun maintenance thing I’m thinking.
Oh and that might not be the same thing happening with other people’s gun. I just know it fixed mine.
My Wifi is leaking through the air transfer port. That degassing screw will actually let the air out around it’s threads if it is loose. I think the reason the instructions say to limit how far you open it is to prevent it from flying out in your face under pressure ! Glad your’s was a simple fix. Just curious why do you think it leaked quickly then two times slow?
It actually was a slow leak down once over night. Then the rapid leak down when I was shooting on another day. Then it leaked down overnight the day of the rapid leak down.
But I believe the rapid leak down could of been caused by me. I was rapid firing and then on the next to last shot before it dumped. The trigger got hard to pull. And I was firing fast so the finger was in motion for the next shot before it listened to my brain saying stop pulling the trigger. Once it got through dumping and I pulled out the magazine I had a pellet half sticking out the back of the clip and the skirt was half sheared off and smashed slightly to one side.
So I don’t know if that pellet might not of been seated in the clip right when I loaded it or what. And I think it had the trigger stuck a bit in a way that it kept pressure on the valve stem.
I could be completely wrong about it. But kind a what I’m thinking about the fast leak down.
That sounds like a plausible theory. Just glad you’re all fixed up. Sounds like ,at 3000 rounds already, you might be more than a little unhappy if she went down for too long.
I absolutely love my Wildfire.
What’s crazy is I had 2 FX Monsoons in .22 caliber. One was excellent. Had zero problems with it. But the other one did pretty much exactly what my Wildfire did. I think it’s got something to do with repeated fast cycling of the valve open and closed on a PCP gun that fires one shot rapidly after another. The higher pressure they run at verses Co2 pressures.
Makes me think that the valve head doesn’t have enough time to seat correct with the rapid opening and closing.
You already know that tightening the degassing screw closes the valve but the instructions for the WF first said the degasser worked like the Discovery, etc.- in other words, they said to turn the screw CW to release the pressure through the barrel. This was wrong and finally after a few weeks of people asking Crosman CS to change it, the new instructions show the revised -correct- instructions. The instructions at PA also now reflect this update.
I do remember that being brought up on the blog now that you mention it.
How is that “tweaked”, a.k.a. “Magnum”,.. 499 doing? (No rush) on duration testing, but was waiting for another 200 shots or so before ordering a Red Ryder spring. It has not turned into a “hair trigger” or anything like that,.. from trigger/sear/latch rod wear?
I’m well past a hundred shots fired, all’s well w/no discernible changes in anything. I suspect the trigger will hold up just fine and very likely will hold up better than the mostly plastic trigger used on the 1938B Red Ryder- a trigger that I’ve put several thousand rounds on w/a shimmed RR spring w/o any problems or failures. I did encounter some hesitancy for the plastic RR trigger to reset properly when I subjected it to the much-increases stress from a shimmed Crosman Cowboy spring in the RR that shot 350 fps on the nose, but that gun was not a happy camper tuned like that and was subsequently toned down and is now happily shooting 330 fps using a shimmed RR spring and drilled out air tube. One thing- I believe the 499 comes w/a metal lever, but if not I recommend getting one.
Forgot to add- I will let you know when I get to 250 shots or so (or how-many-ever you think is right), to give you an update. Sooner if I encounter any problems.
All is sounding good. I may order it next week. It sounds as if you have discovered on how to push the 499’s limits, while at the same time, not going over it’s limits,.. and,.. at the same time maintaining accuracy and performance. If it was going to act up,.. it would have done it by now.
Gunfun1,… yea you!,… when are getting a 499? You love accuracy,.. you love pushing limits,.. you love to modify,… and,.. you are already back into the bb scene. You would love it. It cocks butter smooth compared to a Red Ryder (a.k.a.,… ice cold butter),… not sure why that is.
At any rate,… you really need one and now that Cobalt has come up with the “Magnum” version,… really,.. you would love it.
Cobalt,… thanks buddy. I appreciate the effort and time. Cool discovery. If all continues to hold well,.. you just made the “best”,.. even “better”. 🙂
If I knew then what I do now, I would have put the 499 abutment, shot tube and piston into the little model 105 Buck (so the barrel shroud better matched the 499 shot tube length). The whole shebang would cost about $30 instead of the ~$85 I spent on building a 499 from parts. The one downside is the 105’s nonadjustable rear sight and no front sight (the 105’s front sight/barrel plug wouldn’t be used) would need addressing. But the 105 and RR powerplants are identical, so there’s no reason it wouldn’t have the same MV my modified 499 now has.
The 499 is always in my mind. I have many times almost pulled the trigger on getting one. Pun intended.
But just haven’t.
I really have been wanting to get one of these for years but haven’t. The HW50s little brother.
My HW50s I had was a nice to shoot gun. And I’m betting that the lower power the HW30s makes would make for even a nicer shooting exsperiance. You know. Easier cocking, better shot cycle with the lighter spring and I bet pretty darn accurate. Both models are pretty light as well. And have nice stock design. And my 50 had a nice light but noticable tiger stripe stock. I really should of kept that stock and bought another stock for it before I let it go.
So that’s the one I’m after right now. I have others in mind as well. But the HW30s is picking at me hard right now. 🙂
There is a certain well known airgun dealer located in the SW US that is selling those HW30S air rifles for $280 right now.
They also offer it in other calibers.
Yep I know about the other places and really looking for another .177 caliber springer for plinking. Let’s just say for back up if the old Shoebox compressor goes down for a rebiuld with the o-rings. That way I can still do some air gun shooting while my pcp’s are down waiting for the pump to get back up and running.
And you know I’m using that as a excuse to get me another air gun. 😉
Oh and on the cost thing. I’ll wait for PA to have one of their 10% off plus free shipping over a $150 and get the HW30s. Other reason why I’ll get it from PA is it only takes 2-3 days for me to get it from them. The place out on the left coast takes forever for me to get something from them. Usually 5-7 days. And I don’t like that. When I order I want it yesterday if you know what I mean. 🙂
Well, I guess you just about live next door to PA. My experience is I have received my orders faster from elsewhere. Usually my orders from Pa will pass within 30 miles of my house on their way to the bottom of the next state before they turn around and are delivered two days later.
The 30S in .177 would be a good one to get for my grandson when he is ready to step up, but the 50S or the 95 in .22 would be a better choice for me.
I am going to hold off on those and hopefully have some time to experiment with this Tomahawk and see what I can do with it. At $30 for a new air rifle, it is really quite a screaming deal and if I can tune it like I want I will have a real winner. I communicated with Vortek and they told me it is a Hatsan 95, which has been one of Hatsan’s better sproingers. We’ll see.
Yep and that happens like that when I get something from that left coast place. My order takes a joy ride across the United States then finally makes it to me. So yep PA is definitely my best way to go.
And as you know I had a 50s and it was a nice gun to even carry around. They are only like 5.5 pounds. Same as the 30s.
But what keeps making me want one over the 50s is the lighter cocking and less velocity. I’ll tell ya some of the lower velocity .177 caliber guns I have had have been tack drivers. It just seems that 650 fps range in .177 makes for a accurate gun.
And I’m sure if you keep with it you’ll have your Tomahawk just like you want it. I can say this that my Hatsan springers benefited from a lighter spring.
It is my intent to shorten the spring in increments to where I am happy with it and then have Vortek make me a new spring for it. I will probably pick up a new seal and very likely will button the piston also. I imagine I will be fiddling with the trigger also. I may even go so far as to see if I can find me some bearings to put under the ends of the springs. With what I paid for this, I can afford to try different things with it.
With the nicely shaped walnut stock it has, it is really a very nice looking air rifle. If I can turn it into a nice, smooth shooter it will most definitely be a keeper. I may never get a Weihrauch, that is unless I stumble on a deal I would be stupid to turn down.
Don’t see why it wouldn’t turn out to be a good shooter after your done.
And don’t you wish there was a way to have a before modded gun setting next to the modded gun and shoot them both to compare the differences.
I mean yes the targets will show something. But the feel of the shot cycle would be cool to compare.
On bearings,… Torrington’s are nice. Give some consideration to a Vortek kit,.. or at least the whole theory of the parts they use and why they use them. Polished/bearing washers would accomplish the same on canceling spring rotation. They also use a fairly soft plastic/rubber washer up in their plastic tubes. Bearings at both ends would be interesting, but I think that only one end is really needed,.. piston end.
Get to it already! I am waiting to see what you come up with! 😉
Have posted this before. My HW30s is as accurate at 10 meters from a rest as any gun under $500 that I am aware of. It likes most quality pellets like H&N Finale Match Rifle and Quan Yuan Olympic but the popular priced RWS Basic may surprise. I have a number of Lothar Walther barreled guns and a Diana 34 that perform about as well but do not beat the Weihrauch.
Go for it!
Thanks for the info. Got to save up some more money and wait on a PA sale and I’m going to get one. My HW50s was a nice shooter. So I’m sure I’ll love the HW30s.
I’ll let you know when I get one. 🙂
I guess I could have bought two. Actually, I should have a pretty good idea as I can recall what it was like before I used Tune In A Tube on it and I will be doing some before shooting to chrony and accuracy compare as I work through things. I am going to try real hard to be organized with this and even have decent documentation.
Well you will have to keep us updated as you go.
I would appreciate your reporting on a future HW30s in your arsenal. I do wonder if my rifle has a “star” barrel. I know someone I see infrequently who has a HW30s but his rifle has a red dot sight. There is no way I can compare accuracy using a red dot sight vs a good scope at 10 meters. The dot is too large for short distances, at least for me it is.
What do you mean by “star” barrel?
It will be interesting to compare the old like this R8 to the Gamo Maxim Swarm, the 10 shot breakbarrel. I’ve always been puzzled why so few companies have imitated the IZH 61 in making a spring piston repeater. Maybe manufacturers are finally getting the message with this rifle. I wasn’t expecting the breakbarrel since fixed geometry seems much simpler. I hope we get a review.
I have seen quite a few reviews of the Swarm recently and they all praise how well the magazine system works. I myself have come close to buying one, but then I recall that every review points to one issue that every Gamo sproinger has, their trigger. Gamo has still not figured out how to make a decent trigger and this is their fourth version since I owned my Gamo CFX several years ago.
Maybe we can take this loading system and mount it on an Weihrauch?
In a Logun Penetrator review you did way back in February 27, 2006, you said “…the most accurate .22 caliber pellet I’ve ever used is the 15.9-grain JSB Exact domed diabolo.” Realizing fully this may have changed through the years, how well have these pellets held up?
Speaking for myself, the JSB Exact in .177 and .22 have always been one of the first “must try” pellets when I am trying to find “the” pellet for an air rifle. On those occasions when it is not the most accurate in a particular air rifle, it is usually a pretty close second.
Cobalt and RidgeRunner
The JSB .25 caliber pellets are good too.
JSB’s or Air Arms pellets is what I use. The other pellets I have just sit and wait to be tryed in a new air gun just to see if the gun likes them. But the JSB pellets are for sure my go to pellets.
It’s still there. The 18.1 grain from the same company now keeps it company.
Thanks, all you guys. Pellets are my current fixation and I find myself wanting any number of different types to try. And while that’s all well and good, my budget says I’d better make some good choices, else I’ll end up w/thousands that will never be shot. And any unused pellets runs up the cost for the pellets that DO make the grade. So your input is really appreciated!
That’s how I was at first. Trying every pellet under the sun.
Tryed the JSB’s right out of the tin and was having better luck with them verses other brand pellets that I was even hand sorting in all different kinds of ways.
To me the JSB’s just work in pretty much every gun I try them in. And again for me a big thing. Right out of the tin.
Okay, so what I’ll do is choose 4 from PA (pay for 3) and hopefully I’ll find at least 3 of the 4 are keepers, that would be fine, all things considered. I also see there’s a JSB sample tin w/4 different types in it, might be worth a try.
JSB’s for me too. 15.89 and 18.13 in .22 and the 25.39 and 33.95’s in .25. I have tried the head and weight sorting also and the JSB’s generally won out. I don’t have anything in .177 other than a pistol and just shoot Crosman’s in that. If you are on a budget, JSB’s would be a good start. And, like somebody else said, once I find a pellet for a particular gun,.. that is all I shoot in it. Once I find it,.. I record the hold over and under at different distances and I am good to go. I have a bunch of .22’s and did recently try them in the Maximus. The 15.89 JSB’s won out.
You can “chase your tail” for months picking a pellet. Keep good records. Shoot over several sessions. “Boiling” data down to one page is also a big help,.. as opposed to trying to look at a bunch of targets.
What is it,.. that you are looking to select a pellet for?
Several, all .177:
Crosman 18″ 2400 KT
Mrodair/SPA MP-1M pistol
Gamo Shadow 1000
Up above where you mentioned the sample packs. That is a good way to try different pellets in different guns.
What I did back when I was trying to find a pellet that would work in a gun I was thinking about getting or had. I would read reviews on the Pyramid Air webpage for that paticular gun. And I would read the reviews for the pellets that was being talked about for that paticular gun.
But you have to kind of over look some of the reviews. You know what I mean. There will be good info and not so good info.
But that’s what I did before I got hooked on the JSB’s.
I do hope to start on this project soon. I too am looking forward to doing this. I was thinking of using a couple of washers with Moly grease between them to help with torque reduction if I could not find Torringtons for it. Vortek does not make a tune kit for Hatsan, but I think between them and ARH I may be able to come up with something that will do.
Now if life would just leave me alone for a while.
I wonder if all of the grease might have been an on-purpose detuning. After all, wouldn’t someone with such a high-end air rifle also know not to lay it on too thick? (Well, maybe not. I might not have known. ;^)
When I read about your R8’s much lower-than-spec velocity along with the smooth cycle, I was reminded of my HW77. I bought it from a fellow who had used it only for plinking and detuned it with a spring for, as I recall, an HW50s. It shoots Hobbys and 7 grain RWS Club wadcutters at around 675 fps. It does cock and shoot like a dream and is perfect for bench-rest plinking, although it is a bit heavy to lug back to the patio.
Makes me think that spring could of been from a HW30s. That’s about what they shoot at. The HW50s shoots much hotter. Here check it out.
Dusted off the TX200 and LGU today,.. ( and I do mean dusted them off,.. literally) and did 30 yards. Then the Maximus (all in .22). Two, 10 shot groups each. No comparison, the Maximus won out hands down!!! Then I busted out the .25 M-rod for the first time this year on some 15 oz. cans at 70 yards. 16 for 16.
Had a “nice” 10-15-20 (steady) wind from my right to contend with,… but a nice 68* and sunny-ish day otherwise. It will be nice when the lower brush and low, med., high tree’s fill in. Then it is like shooting in my own little private 100 yard indoor range,… for the most part.
Sorry springer lover’s,… I am dead hooked on PCP’s. If the TX and LGU were not so pretty to look at and shoot for a change of pace,.. I would sell them.
Pretty much same weather here today. Not as windy though. But feels nice. We had 2 days of high of 52 and rain. So definitely nice today.
And I was wondering how long it was going to take you to say that about springers. 😉
But if you ever get a chance to shoot a Diana 54 Air King or a Feinwerkbau 300 I think those springers would surprise you.
Oh REALLY?,… were you now? 😉 What can I say,.. more power, smoother shooting and not hold sensitive. It is kind of a no-brainer. Kind of like shooting a lower power springer and a multi or single pump pneumatic I suppose.
If I am going to spend more money,… it will be on a PCP. And,… you know what?,.. that says a lot about the Maximus to go up against 2 higher end springer’s. To beat that,.. the Maximus is about as far as from a high end PCP as you can get. But I tell you what,… I got that trigger adjusted super sweet!
The Discovery’s where like that too. But I think the Maximus is just a tad more accurate.
And yep my Maximus trigger is on the money now too.
I did some measurements on the V trigger/sear spring as I adjusted it. Protractor, paper, sharp pencil, (full) attention to detail,… 130 degree’s stock, 124 perfect, 121 too light. Just some good solid advice for those that are looking to “play”. (Disclaimer: Don’t mess with the trigger if you do not understand it and feel comfortable in your adjustment decision’s). 6# to 1 1/2#-,… it might be worth some research. Add in the 2 screws, some lube,.. and it rivals the TX and LGU triggers on clean break and stop.
Pretty much the same thing I did to the sear spring. But I didn’t do the 2 setscrews to adjust the trigger. Tryed that on a Discovery trigger assembly and the setscrews didn’t seem to make any difference.
I went the other route with the trigger return spring. I cut a couple coils off of it and added a ball point pen spring inside the cut off factory spring. It gives it a nice light first stage pull and stop at what would be the second stage. Then the light pressure of the sear spring is felt for the release.
And I do think we have mentioned this several times already on different blog days. But guess someone reading for the first time today could find it helpful.
Anyway noth’n like a nice trigger. 🙂
Yes we have mentioned it,.. I do think it is worth repeating as the heavy trigger may put some off on the Maximus. It is reassuring though that it does not have to be that way for those that may be interested in one and are willing to delve in a bit for a quick and easy mod..
And yes, it does feel like a fine 2 stage trigger,.. even though the insides are working a bit differently. Really,.. it all comes down to how it “feels”. Too bad that they can not do that from the factory. That would be a big plus on advertisement’s, promotion, sales,.. I would think.
At any rate,.. Out’a here,…. back to the “grind”.
Yep with you there.
Sorry for the late question, if you were to put a gun in long term storage in the garage say 5 years or more, would you stuff it full of grease to keep it from rusting?
NO. I would dry it off, then coat it with Ballistol lightly.
I own an original R8 from San Rafael. It was basic tuned last at Beeman in Huntington Beach, CA. I’ve taken care of it so it blueing and stock just has normal use, I rate the condition 90%.
Its very smooth when it shoots, a slight jolt, light recoil, and my best shot was sitting 5 shots same hole at 10m with H&N Match pellets. I lost my globe and rear sights so it only wears my original San Rafael German SS-3 scope, also in excellent condition. I bought this R8 in 1985 and will never sell it. Its a very beautifully crafted mechanical object, it puts my other guns to shame… Its the top one in the pic. The bottom one is an R1 from Beeman Huntington Beach, bought used in excellent condition for only $300!
I have Beeman catalogs on the R1, R10, R9, R8, R7 & R6. Anyone need any spec info let me know…
Welcome to the blog!
Always enjoyed your reviews and comments..!
Has anyone heard of, or shot a “Benjamin 392 Air Conserving Pumper (ACP) MkII?”
It sounds like someone has changed the mechanism to make it possible to make a couple of shots on one pump-up, or just ‘topping off’ with a couple of pumps to retain full power for subsequent shots.
Sounds interesting to me, but does it work?
Two articles I found:
It works. The one I have seen for sale is from an owner who got tired of pumping (3 strokes) to top it back up before shooting again.
Thank you for the information.
As much as I like my old Sheridan, sometimes it seems that I have to pump a lot. Maybe this could be a stepping stone to a PCP?
Yes it can be considered as a step towards a PCP. But at the price they are selling it seems to make more sense to purchase a Maximus kit. If you were looking for a PCP that would have similar capability it would be the FX Independence and Indy but they cost more than what most people are willing to pay. There was a Chinese manufacturer featured in one of the SHOT Show snippets on YouTube that is producing a lower cost version of the FX Indy but this one is mainly plastic if I recall.
“Star” barrel means a barrel selected for accuracy after testing. “Star” is slang for “star gauge” which was marked on 1903 Springfield barrels selected for their obvious accuracy. I should not have used such a vague term on this forum. Hope this helps.
Yep I had I few thoughts as to what a “star” barrel was. First thing that came to mind was that it was a exceptional barrel. Or a exceptional shooting gun.
Anyway sounds like you got a good one. You know what they say about a good shooter. Better not let it go. You probably won’t never get it back.