by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
This report covers:
- H&N Finale Match Light
- Sig Match Ballistic Alloy
- Qiang Yuan Olympic
- RWS R10
- Cocking effort
- Trigger pull
Today we look at the velocity of the HW 55SF target rifle. I will tell you now that I was surprised by the performance. This is an air rifle that lives for years in my gun closet and only occasionally gets shot, so I forget how it works. It’s like a brand new airgun every time.
I have owned several HW55s over the years. One was the Custom Match that was their final release of the 55 series. It came out several years after the World Cup matches had switched to FWB 150/300s and Walther LGRs, so it never had a chance to dominate, but it was still quite a target rifle.
I also owned a 55 Tyrolean that put me off Tyroleans for a long time. It just wasn’t fun to shoot. I tuned that one for you in the blog and got it shooting faster, but eventually I got rid of it.
H&N Finale Match Light
Let’s begin today’s test with H&N Finale Match Light pellets. I expected to see an average velocity around 575 f.p.s., but they averaged 613 f.p.s., instead. The spread was 31 f.p.s., from 594 to 625 f.p.s. But that low shot was the only one that didn’t break 600 f.p.s.
The pellet I linked to weighs 7.87 grains, but the truth is, my pellets are much older and don’t say Light on the tin. They say High Speed. So, I weighed a couple to see if they are the same as the ones I linked to. Three pellets weighed 7.5, 7.6, and 7.7 grains, respectively, so let’s call them 7.6 grains. At that weight this pellet generates 6.34 foot pounds at the muzzle
These pellets fit the breech loosely and the rifle buzzed every time it fired. The buzzing is most unpleasant on a target rifle that you are concentrating on shot after shot! But I have to say — the trigger seems to be adjusted fine!
Sig Match Ballistic Alloy
Next I tried Sig Match Ballistic Alloy pellets. These are lead free and weigh 5.25 grains, so you know they will be faster. I guessed somewhere in the mid-700s, but they averaged 811 f.p.s. The spread was 16 f.p.s., going from 801 to 817 f.p.s. That is the tightest spread of this test. These Sig pellets have turned in some remarkable results in past tests, and I am hoping they will with this rifle.
They also fit the breech loosely and produced 7.67 foot-pounds. Lighter pellets usually do produce more energy in a spring-piston powerplant. The buzzing continued.
Qiang Yuan Olympic
Next up were some Qiang Yuan Olympic pellets. This is another target pellet that has performed well in past tests. They weigh 8.2 grains, so I expected to see velocities in the mid to high 500s. but surprise, surprise, they averaged 626 f.p.s. That’s faster than the lighter Finale Match pellets! The spread was 17 f.p.s., which puts them right there with the Sig target pellets.
These pellets also fit the breech loosely. In fact, one fell out as I was closing the barrel, so the string I reported is for 9 shots instead of 10. At the average velocity this pellet generated 7.14 foot pounds of energy.
The final pellet I tested was the RWS R10 Match Pistol pellet. At 7 grains, this one should be a screamer, but it wasn’t as fast as the heavier Qiang Yuan pellets. The average was 624 f.p.s.and the spread was 22 f.p.s., from 612 to 634 f.p.s.
These pellets actually fit the HW 55SF breech the loosest of all. They went into the barrel 1/16 inch (1.59mm). At the average velocity this pellet generated 6.05 foot pounds of energy. I think the loose fit robbed some of the power.
One nice thing about 10-meter spring rifles is they are easy to cock. If they aren’t, I want nothing to do with them. The HW 55SF cocks with 18 lbs. effort for most of the way, but there is a spike to 22 lbs. at the end. It’s not the mainspring causing it; it’s something mechanical. Maybe when I look inside the powerplant I can eliminate it.
Stage one takes 3.7 ounces and stage two releases at 8.3 ounces. That’s pretty light, but not as light as one of the better target rifle triggers from the 1960-70s.
I’m going to test the accuracy next. That won’t change when I tune the rifle, so I can test it now.
Then I’m going to look inside the powerplant. I want to quiet the mainspring at the very least. I can do that with Tune in a Tube, or I can do it by eliminating all the slop between the parts. I’ll have to think about what I want to do awhile. I will also take more pictures of the special target Rekord trigger for you.
It’s been fun looking at this rifle after so long. I can’t wait to see what else I learn or remember.
120 thoughts on “Weihrauch’s HW55SF: Part 2”
Given its power range its going to be the lazy way to tame this rifle by simply applying Tune in a Tube, which won’t give this rifle justice. It will benefit with a proper tune and will give the most satisfaction to the readers when you explore the innards of this rifle. I would hazard a guess that the twang is from sloppy fitting of parts and a possible kink in the spring, it could also be the answer to why the cocking effort increases at the end. Maybe this is a candidate for a beer can or milk bottle tune?
PS: Section Cocking effort Fourth sentence: “It’s mot (not) the mainspring…”
I will look at the mainspring for straightness.
And the typo — got it! Thanks,
Then why waist time tuning the gun if it doesn’t change accuracy.
Back in the day Air Research Headquarters offered different levels of acurracy tunes. I have my old early 70’s catalog. I’ll have to refresh my memory and see what they done to the guns. I know the catalog I have has a article in it about the tuning.
But anyway interesting comment you made about tunning and accuracy.
I thought the same thing. A smoother shot cycle should reduce minute gun movements and (theoretically) improve accuracy.
At least it’s the Friday blog.
We got all weekend to figure out what we’re talking about.
Why waste time? Because I don’t like the way the gun feels when I shoot it. It should feel smooth and it doesn’t.
Tuning back in the day was not what it is today. We know more today and can do so much better than most tuners of the 1970s, when this gun was new (actually 1968-69).
So another accuracy test is merited to determine if accuracy was helped after the tune. Probably a post tune report regarding velocity and accuracy in combination since by that time you would already have determined the best pellet for accuracy, unless you want to spread the report out.
That’s what I was thinking, too.
If it IS accurate (and well-made), then it is worth the trouble to make it more fun to shoot, no?
And of course by tuning it B.B. will have a subject for a couple more installments, and we will have more material to learn from. Well, the advanced students here such as, well, you, might not learn much, but neophytes like me have a lot to learn and will no doubt benefit. :^)
My whole point in asking that question. And explaining about the Air Research Headquarters catalog. Is that BB makes it sound like tunning does not affect acurracy.
I have to disagree. From tuning several different guns and getting a smoother shot cycle. I have ended up with a more accurate gun. So don’t understand the logic in BB’s comment about tuning not affecting accuracy.
Did the 60 bar. The fps dropped by another 74 (641 avg.), but the spread was a tight 8 over 24 shots.
120 bar was 804 avg. over 15 shots with a 21 spread.
Stock was 816 avg. over 15 shots with a 18 spread.
In general, the lower the bar, the tighter the spread, but lower fps. I think that a lighter hammer spring will only add shot count. I think that a higher fill will only add shot count.
Was wondering if you messed with it.
Go up to 3000 psi on tour fill. It will be ok. The Wild Fire fills to 3000 from the factory, the Marauder pistol fills to 3000 psi, the 1720T fills to 3000 psi. They all use basically the same components as the Discovery and Maximus.
Right now your waisting your time and effort of only filling to 2300 psi if that’s what I remember you said you were filling to. And I promise you that you will not get valve lock.
Also leave your factory Maximus striker spring in the gun if you want velocity. The only way to increase velocity now is with what you have is open up the transfer port orifice inside diameter as much as you can.
And the next thing would be add a adjustable spring assembly from Crosman from one of these guns.
Check out the pictures of the gun in the link.
Oh forgot. Notice the trigger stop in the trigger guard of the gun.
I have no trouble going to 3000 on fill. Like I stated above, I think that will only increase shot count though. Wrong? I kept the fill at 2300 for testing sakes (even comparisons that way).
Are you saying that a higher fill would increase fps too?
The end goal here was to lose none, or little, fps (and) to get a tighter spread,… within 20 shots. So far, I am having difficulty achieving that.
First off I was not sure what you was trying to get out of the gun with the regulator.
And with a regulator. Your fill pressure only gives shot count.
To increase velocity with the factory spring and transfer port you have in your Maximus. You will have to increase regulator pressure.
So I don’t remember what regulator settings you tryed. But for what your looking for your 60 bar or 870 psi is to low because of your velocity is not is fast as you want.
And then you know that your 120 bar or 1740 psi was giving you a velocity that you liked. But you didn’t get the shot count or spread you were after.
Where I would go next is set the regulator at 1400 psi or 96 bar. That should keep your velocity close to I’m guessing 775 fps. Then fill to 3000 psi.
The reason I say 3000 psi is because you need that higher pressure to keep the air flow through the the regulator more consistent. So get away from the 2300 psi thought. That’s how your going to get a good spread and velocity and shot count.
I told you I took my regulator out to many times. But try that.
1400 psi on the regulator, 3000 psi fill and see what happens.
Thanks for the advice. I will try that tomorrow. I too,… am getting rather good at getting it out and back in. By the way, a 10-32 x 3″ screw works perfect for degassing. Like 35 cents. The gauge does not fall clear back to 0. The needle stopped at the top of the first red zone. There was nothing left in the air tube. The next section,.. red/yellow/green 0-1000 looks to be the same size as the next all green section 1000-2000. So at least on mine, the top of that first red is 0.
Hopefully that higher fill will even out the reg. more. That would be sweet. I was very impressed with it’s ability to hold a steady fps at lower settings. It worked very well!
All good. I just want you to get your gun setup like you want. And I do hope you give it a go tomorrow.
And yep that’s what my Maximus gauge reads like also on the red mark.
And I do know what you mean about getting it in and out.
And I got a bit of a surprise I’ll give a update on probably tomorrow. I’ll give a little hint but you won’t even guess what it is by the hint. Since I been having such good results with my China QB79 I decided to get another China product. But definitely looking forward to getting it. It’s out for delivery today it says by my tracking number. I’ll just say I’m pretty excited.
You didn’t buy a stormrider, did ya?
I don’t suppose you bought the pump up version of the Stormrider?
But definitely done my fair share of pumping lately.
But just something you got to deal with air guns. Something has to make pressure. That’s for sure.
That recoil pad has sharp points on the heel and toe. Is it comfortable to shoot?
The butt pad on my FWB 300 is the same. But it can be adjusted up or down. I have mine adjusted down. It fits very comfortably to my shoulder.
But I’m thinking even if the butt pad wasn’t adjustable it would find it’s way to center of my shoulder still yet. It would just change the way the comb of the gun rests on my cheek. In other words change the line of sight then.
I never knew adjustable recoil pads were available in those days!
Any chance of a photo to show the way this one works?
I’m at work and get home kind of late.
I’ll take a picture tomorrow and post it.
Here you go. This is not my gun but it shows the adjustable butt pad. Hopefully it will post right.
Where are the adjustment screws? Can it be moved sideways or only vertical?
In the back where it butts up against your shoulder.
Here is a picture of my gun the way it’s set. You can see where the lock down screw is in the middle of the pad.
Also I will post a couple more pictures. First off I got both of these 300’s from RidgeRunner and for a good price at that. (thanks RidgeRunner)
But this one I still have. It’s got some mods done to it internally and is what I call my sleeper gun. It’s a ugly ducking if you will but it’s a shooter. Just rediculous accurate. So don’t let the looks fool you. And yes it’s staying this way. Oh and I did end up getting a original front globe and a rear peep sight for it that’s put away.
And then the other 300 I had with this gun I refinished the stock and did a oil stain on it. The bluing was pretty good. And all the seals and cast iron ring and springs I did with original FWB parts. But that gun got sold.
Anyway here’s the gun I have now.
Here is the butt pad.
Here is the other other 300.
And up a little closer on the comp of the stock.
And suppose to say the (comb) of the stock not comp.
Also I took those pictures off the screen of my old phone. So what you see that looks like cracks in the guns stock and comb are actually cracks on my old phone screen.
Just wanted to clarify that so you didn’t think the stock was cracked.
Thank you for your education in older air rifles. Is that a barrel weight on this rifle?
Good pix too!
That’s what I believe they are. That’s a solid fixed peice of the barrel. It’s not removable. The factory front sight butts up against it.
Thanks about the pictures too. 🙂
The rubber pad has hardened over the years, but yes, it feels comfortable (except for the buzz) against your shoulder when fired.
The H&N Finale Match Light high should be 625 f.p.s. methinks, not 613 f.p.s., which is the average.
Good catch. Corrected.
What is it about Tyrollean stocks that you do not like? Or was it just that one rifle?
In Europe, you can buy a “Match Grade Rekord” trigger for close to 200 euros. Is that the same as your trigger?
Other than smoothing and polishing and spring changes, what is the difference?
Here is a link to that trigger, https://www.krale-schietsport.nl/en/trigger-unit-v-mach-weihrauch.html
I don’t like the way the cupped cheekpiece feels when the rifle recoils. If my Tyro had been better tuned, perhaps I would have liked it better. I have owned other tyros that didn’t recoil that I enjoyed.
I don’t think that trigger is from Weihrauch. If it were, they would say that.
But it does seem to have all the features of the target Rekord.
I would think that a semi-cupped Tyrollean stock would be the best of ALL worlds. A repeatable cheek weld and space for the cheek piece to move away from your cheek when you shoot it.
That’s IF the stock fits you well. I have only seen one out of about 40 that fit me well.
You are absolutely correct about tyrolean stocks. If they fit you well there are so many contact points that make a repeatable cheek weld guaranteed. This is the reason that tyrolean stocks were outlawed for formal 10 meter shooting. They provided an unfair advantage to shooters.
B.B. nailed this subject on tyrolean stocks.
I’ve owned over 40 airguns that had tyrolean stocks. Very few fit me well. Walthers typically fit me better than Weihrauch’s. It’s sacrilegious but you can modify these stocks to fit very well with a lot of sand paper, elbow grease and then refinish the stock.
Air Rifle Headquarters used to regularly offer after market, unfinished tyrolean stocks that had “extra meat” on the cupped portion of the stock which existed for the owner to “tailor” the fit to his or her liking.
So I guess if you have your heart set on a Tyrollean stock for a gun that you want to use regularly, they only way to go is to get it custom tailored to your dimensions?
Modifying a tyrolean stock to fit You is something you can do with basic woodworking skills and something you should do yourself since “your dimensions” of where your cheek meets the stock are tough to measure for a custom stock maker. You take a little wood off here, add some filler wood there test and repeat.
Just know that for collectors you’re devaluing the stock in most cases.
That is how real Tyrolean stocks are made. They are custom-fitted to the shooter like a suit of clothes. You don’t buy a real Tyrolean off the rack.
I have encountered so many Zimmerstutzens with strange-shaped butts and combs that are the result of that hand-fitting. And one .22 Aydt made by Haenel fit me perfectly. I had to sell it to pay debts.
The wildest customization I’ve seen was when you reported on Free Pistol. Because I had never heard of it before your reports, I did an image search after that and was blown away by the extent of grip shaping. Some looked like they were custom epee grips!
I would like you to try Tune in a Tube first, then do whatever you are planning to do for a full-blown tune. I’m curious how much buzz is removed from the simple procedure of applying Tune in a Tube. Thanks to your blog, I learned about this product and have used it from time to time. Love it.
Dan Wesson Fan,
I don’t need to do that, because I have already done it about 10 times on other airguns that buzzed. ALL of the buzz is removed. ALL! Tune in a Tube is the most remarkable stuff I have ever seen for spring guns.
I too would love to see a comparison of Tune In A Tube vs a full house tune job. And I wonder why accuracy does not correlate to buzzing. I know time is a big constraint for you. Still if you decide on a full tune, it would be quick and easy to first put the TIAT on first, fire the rifle and note the buzzing improvement. Maybe TIAT works so well the marketing folks would advertise it!
Oops! You answered my question before I posted it. At least part of it. Still wondering about accuracy though.
Along with “tune in a tube” you occasionally mention Almagard 3752. Are they the same or serve the same purpose?
They are the same.
I just clicked on the link you provided above.
How long has Pyramyd Air been selling the Almagard 3752 as Tune in a tube?
Just recently or for a while? I remember it being talked about and packaging was a concern.
They had had it for a little over a month.
Thanks didn’t realize that.
I finally set up a sturdy shooting bench. On the maiden test It gave me a “personal best” with my AA S510.
Shooting off a monkey bag at 50 yards with JSB 15.89’s.
Pointed due East into a 13mph SSE wind. 40 shots on a 200 bar fill.
Measured at approx. 1.5”. It would have been smaller if not for 2 fliers.
I’m very happy with that considering it was after 5 or 6 cups of coffee.
Definately not off topic here! That’s some good shooting. Have you tried the jsb 18.1 gr pellets in your S510 in wind?
I agree with Kevin. Good shooting.
In all my years of reading about airguns, yours is one of the very few honest reports about accuracy that I have read. Good shooting!
That’s what I’m talking about. And it’s good to see you post a picture of their target. I wish more people would.
And 40 shots. I bet that would be at or under .750″ with a standard 10 shot group like BB talks about. And I bet even better if you didn’t have the crosswind.
Next time you get out to shoot hopefully you can get a calm day and do just a 10 shot group. I would really like to see that target group.
Very good shooting. I used a wobbly bench for a long time. I finally built a permanent one on the back porch. More than any thing it reduced the stress of shooting. I think having one less variable, especially one that i always focused on, made my bench shooting more fun and less tiring.
It did help my accuracy some also.
Again good shooting, you have an accurate and consistent rifle too.
Nice shooting,.. especially 40 shots. A sturdy and stable bench does make a world of difference. The S510 series is one that has always caught my eye. If I were to start all over, that might very well be my first.
In just a little over 60 days the 2018 SHOT Show will begin.
The newly formed Japan Optics Ltd. will have an exhibit at the 2018 SHOT Show. Japan Optics was formed by many of the old Hakko (think about the highly sought after vintage Beeman scopes that were made by Hakko) employees. Be interesting to hear about what they’re introducing.
They will be in the Supplier Showcase section. I think that is the new products section. I seldom go through there because it is opened after the show opens and I have found that three-quarters of the things in there never make it to market.
But this year I will keep an eye out for them.
I used up my last tin of 18.1’s last week. I had been shooting off a wobbly bench at 30 yards with them and not getting very consistent results.
The new bench is stable so I set a target up at 50 yards.
I’m going to order more 18.1’s and a P1 pistol, but the P1 is out of stock right now. I’ll be using lighter pellets until around the middle of December.
Off-topic, but it’s Friday.
Do you remember when you discussed the aerodynamic flaps on a big-rig tractor? Take a look at this bad boy:
Now — how much could the truck’s range be improved if there was a foldout solar cell array on top of the trailer? An array that could be transferred from trailer to trailer quickly.
Although I don’t have much to add or ask regarding the historical aspects of our sport, your blogs do take me back to the latter 70’s when I bought my first pellet rifles. In fact, right now I am looking at my copy of Volume 28 or the Air Rifle Monthly. It is copyright 1969 and is titled “The Weihrauch Handbook”. The photo on the front is of a Weihrauch HW 55 MM .177 match rifle. This and your post do spawn a reverie of a time and place and mood.
Returning to 2017, I saw in my newly received Pyrarmyd Airgun Mall that Beemans’ has entered the entry level PCP market and Pyramyd Air is carrying the (new?) Hatsan Proxima. I am sure there is more, but these two caught my eye immediately. I look forward to seeing more on them.
Is there a velocity or energy maximum for competition airguns. Noticed that this one was producing over 6 FPe and close to 8 FPe. The sweet spot has usually been defined as around 600 for 10 Meter target shooting.
More than likely the loose fitting pellets are reducing velocity and might be adding to the buzzing as the piston does not have enough air cushion. Might want to try some better fitting pellets. Bore diameter might be a tad on the high side as well.
Pellets from the era that the gun was produced might do better. As it is a Weihrauch ore than likely would have been made for RWS pellets.
You don’t need more than 600 f.p.s. so target rifles try to stay at or just below that mark. Today it’s the conservation of air they are concerned about.
BB, one unusual detail on older HW 55’s, is that they have a long gentle flare on the breech end of the bore. This was a separate manufacturing step, done by hammering in a tapered mandrel. Back in the day, Weihrauch advertised this as making the gun smoother and “delaying” recoil, for what it’s worth.
They eventually stopped doing this–not sure exactly when, but your “SF” may well have this detail. I consistently find that these older guns (understandably!) prefer pellets with larger skirt diameters. Modern pellets tend to have smaller skirts (especially Crosman and JSB designs); so will seem to fit very loose, and perform erratically.
The fattest skirts I know of are on the older classic RWS designs–Meisterkugeln, Superdome, Hobby, Superpoint, Super H-Point, etc. You might find it interesting to give those a go in this lovely old rifle!
Looking forward to reading more about this beauty.
As always, you have taught me something new. I will try some pellets with larger skirts. The last time I tested this rifle Hobbys did very well.
B.B. and everybody,
Finally able to get my hands on Molybdenum disulfide powder 1.5 microns. What grease does one mix this into? Does one add the grease to the powder or the powder is added to the grease? Are there any safety precautions I have to adhere to? Do I use weight or volume in measuring concentration of moly powder?
Thanks in advance.
I used it years ago. Late 80’s to early 90’s with my racing radio controlled airplanes.
Those engine’s are lubricated by the fuel. A percentage of the fuel is nitromethane and oil. And people mixed in other things as well. I won’t get into that. But yep I mixed in small amounts of molybdenum disulfide powder in the fuel.
In that paticular application I had to keep the moly very small so it would mix well and be a part of the liquid.
And it depends on what part of the gun your going to use it on. But yes it will mix with any grease. And it depends on how much you want to mix in.
And the question is what part of the gun are you wanting to use it on. That would probably determine how much and what to mix it with.
So it’s not a one mix for all solution? I’m intending to use it for the Piston in my brother’s Diana M48. What formulation or mix should I use if applying to the trigger? Don’t intend to use it on the Diana trigger that is good as is (I think it’s a T01). Most likely will use some on the Webley trigger.
Nobody will know the answers to the questions you have asked because those are proprietary data that companies don’t reveal. I would start with a medium weight general purpose grease and go from there.
Be careful not to inhale that powder if it’s that fine.
Let us know what happens.
I agree with BB.
Your just going to have to see what works for you.
And I’ll post a picture in a bit of what I got yesterday.
Maximus regulator update: Happy news to report.
96 bar = (1400 psi) 27 shot, 786~774, 12 spread (set up this way now)
Stock (2000 fill) 27 shot, 824~724, 100 spread,…as a comparison:
120 bar = (1750 psi) 15 shot, 815~794, 21 spread
That was with a 3000 fill which registered at a regulated 1450 on the gauge. Leaving the gauge in was a definite plus,.. despite what the instructions said. So yup,.. I am a happy camper! 🙂
Thanks for the assistance,… Chris
Good deal. Glad you got it. Now I want to see some target results. When you get around to it text me the target pictures and I’ll post them for you. I’m going to bet you will like your shooting results.
And read below. I’m going to post a picture of what I got yesterday.
I will have to wait for a good day and do it outside. I will not dishonor it by testing it at 41′ indoors. 25 – 30 yards minimum. After I first got it, it would do 3 leaf overlapping leaf clovers and the remaining 7 would just go through the same 3 holes, again and again.
Don’t see why it won’t repeat those target results now with the regulator.
If not I would have to say it caused by not enough practice. 😉
I will be the first to admit that. Maybe I need one of those heated and cooled breezeways like you got? Though, I would have to build a garage first,.. to attach the breezeway to,…. MAN!,… this air gun stuff can get pretty darn expensive, (all) things considered! 😉
Well there you go. Sounds like a plan to me. 🙂
Clarification,… the 3 + 7 was at 41′.
Now you got to see what 50 yards does. Seriously.
Well here it is.
First I’ll say it is super fast. It goes to a extremely high pressure. 6000 psi to be exact.
As I say more you will know what it is. It’s water cooled and it has a temperature gauge. And pretty quiet. And small. And not to heavy for it’s size. And cost right at $300 shipped.
But here it is.
Forgot to attach the picture.
What is it? Booster? HPA pump? Fed by shop compressor? What’s the bucket for? Details man!!! Details!
It’s a self contained HPA compressor.
The bucket is filled with water. The hoses running from the HPA pump go to a pump in the bucket. So yep it’s water cooled.
It’s supper fast and can fill big bottles to 6000 psi. Here’s a example. My Shoebox would fill the Maximus from 1200 psi to 2300 psi in around 7 minutes. This pump now fills the Maximus from 900 psi to 3000 psi in seriously less than 2 minutes. It’s crazy fast.
And the pump filling the Maximus in that short of time only increased in temperature 5°.
I like it. 🙂
I did the bucket thing too. I have a 5 micron filter on the exit. I have yet to ever drain a bit of moisture out of it. I only did the cold water on the first fill on the Guppy tank. Ice packs worked good for that. My bucket has about 50′ feet of coiled hard 3/8″ plastic tubing in it.
By the way, the Maximus air reservoir was spotless. No dirt or rust or anything like that.
Nice set up. I hope everything keeps working good. Having the Buldawg test one first is good assurance.
Don’t remember if is aid. But that’s what that silver thing is coming off the compressor head to the fill hose. It unscrews and has little filters that you insert to catch moisture.
And you know what. I forget to mention that when I took my Maximus apart to put the regulator in. Mine was dry and clean too inside. Well actually there was a slight oil film in it. Guess those few drops of silicone oil in the guns foster fill fitting before filling helped. Only oiled it about once a month.
And yep Buldawg was giving me updates on his compressor as time went. So pretty confident about the compressor. But on the other hand you never know. Anything can happen.
We will be waiting on more info on this pump. If it lasts more than a few fills it will be a major game changer.
Getting into pcp’s is getting easyer every day.
Well that’s been my whole thing about getting one. How long it will last. That’s why I mentioned above since I been having good luck with my China QB79 I decided to try out this China pump.
Don’t know if you remember Buldawg that use to comment all the time. Well I still talk to him all the time. He has one of these compressors for a while now and been having good luck with his. So he kind of talked me into getting one. Well he talked me into the QB79 also.
As it goes. Time Will Tell. Hope it works out.
Tell Buldawg hello for me. Sounds like the pump is going to be a winner. Keep us posted.
I will tell him.
And I will give a update good or bad as time goes with the pump.
Hope it goes good. Don’t rightly have $300 laying around if you know what I mean. I’m hopping it will be one of those Christmas presents for some years to come. I’ll have to put a red bow on it every Christmas to remind me. 🙂
I did let Buldawg know.
And he may have have something to post at some point in time about a Marauder trigger and Challenger trigger gaurd mod on his Maximus. And with pictures. So hopefully he will post that soon.
Will be good to hear from Buldawg again. My marauder .22 is doing so well with the hammer forged barrel that I am up graiding from my Leupold 3-9 with a Hawk 6-24X56 scope.
I never did hear from Buldawd on his Marauder with the hammer forged barrel.
I have no complaints on the Maximus barrels I have been trying on different guns. They are very good. My next test will be a Maximus barrel on a Crosman 2240.
Glad your .22 Marauder is doing good now.
And yes Crosman definitely is on to something with the Maximus barrels.
And I’m betting you will like the Maximus barrel on your 2240.
And of course another of subject post for me.
The purpose of the new hpa compressor is for a reason. Getting ready for a big bore. But not what people will probably expect from me.
Been really wanting a Wing Shot air shot gun. Definitely a universal air gun. You can shoot shot shells, bullets and probably round balls if they make them for it. And the air bows.
But something is bothering me about it. It only has a front sight. And there is no dove tails for scope rings. Same with the Wing Shot gen 2. It’s got a rail on it. But no way to mount a scope.
Probably will have to drill two holes and tap them and mount some adapters like my Savage 93 uses for scope rings.
But just thought that odd to not have a rear sight or a way to mount a scope if it can shoot other things than a shot shell.
You might look at this one instead, holds more air and has sights and a dovetail.
I have thought about that gun you posted the link to.
My concern is I wonder if it will accept the shot shells. And then it’s rifled instead of the smooth bore. Plus want the changeable screw in chokes for the shot gun use. And they do make different chokes now for the Wing Shot.
My main use for it would be as a shot gun. So that’s another thing. I want to be able to remove the scope for shot gun use. But also be able to replace the scope and hopefully be close on zero and not have to resight.
I know I’m asking for alot. But that’s what I’m looking for.
Oh and weights another thing.
The Wing Shot is about a pound and a half lighter. I want the lighter weight for the shot gun use. I point and hit better with a lighter shot gun than a heavier one. Well a firearm shot gun anyway. And I know people like a heavier shot gun to help with recoil. But that has never bothered me. And heck I bet the Wing Shot probably recoils like a 410. I might be wrong but that’s my thinking.
Early today I watched Keith Warren’s African Safari where he bags a Cape Buffalo and some other critters with the gun I pointed to. He used arrows with it.
The video is still on Pyramyd Air but the link is missing now.
Cool. Real cool.
Any info that you might know if it will shoot the shot shells?
That gun is cheaper to that your talking about.
I think you could use the shot shells, but it may damage or at least leave plastic in the rifling.
Ah good thought.
I was only thinking about the rifling messing with the shot shell pattern.
It might change the pattern, if in fact the shot shell actually gets a spin from the rifling.
That’s a good point too.
I actually have some Air Venturi shot shells for the Wing Shot here. And don’t ask why. That’s another thing I was experimenting with.
But the shells are pretty fragile. The back of them has a disc that I think blows forward and pushes the lead shot out in front of the plastic shot shell.
But then again the shot shell has lines in the side of it to allow it to break open like a firearm shot gun shell wadding. So maybe the lead stays contained until it leaves the barrel.
Either way I think the rifling would induce spin as the bed shot left the barrel.
So that could effect the pattern size and placement on the target.
The centrifugal force induced by the rifling would cause a doughnut shaped pattern for the pellet distribution. This would be more pronounced at longer ranges.
You could be right, but would the pattern actually change or would it be a rotating pattern?
Guess you just have to get both guns and see which one has the better pattern. 🙂
Then send back the one you don’t like.
I just don’t know. Really never tryed it in anything that made good power.
Yep but wonder how distance would affect the pattern too. Rifled barrel verses smooth bore.
You make a good point, if the shot can get rotating fast enough it will make a doughnut shape.
The large question is will the shot shell engage the rifling or just slide on it?
Smaller question if the lead is loose and just flying down the barrel would the rifling have an effect?
Interesting. I have not given big bores much thought,.. other than wishing,… but the Texan would be high on the list. Of course, that will not suffice for shot gun use,.. or could it?,… I don’t know. My thought is that if you got the bore to suffice that you can make something work.
The Texan is more than what I need.
I mostly want the use of a shot gun. But it would be nice to pop some steel at a hundred yards or so with the Wing Shot.
Plus I have a facination with smooth bore air guns. So that’s why I’m leaning more to the Wing Shot. Plus I really wish that Air Venturi would come up with a rifled choke for the smooth bore Wing Shot.
Hey wait a minute. Then it would be like a FX smooth twist barrel. Which are very accurate from exsperiance I had with FX guns.
I’m late tonight but I just wanted to let you know that when I bought the Marauder .25 this summer I also bought a Chinese compressor to fill my 92 ci tank. 2600 to 4500 in just over 3 1/2 minutes. Love it, I can power the .25 cal. air hog when I want to without hassle. I really am impressed with the barrel on this rifle. My Disco would do 1.25 in. groups at 50yds but the Marauder will do sub 3/4 in consistantly. I’m liking it a lot.
Thanks for the update. Happy to hear that you been having good results on all.
I definitely like the.25 Marauder’s. They do perform. And have not heard much here about the China compressor’s. But the GTA has been active with them. I don’t comment there but I do read it.
Just glad we have the places to resource for info. And I think it’s good that those compressor’s are available at that price. Maybe if Pyramyd Air would carry them they would get more customers getting into pcp’s. Plus they would be more apt to sell bottles. Maybe even offer compressor and bottle combo’s.
Definitely a good time to be a air gunner.
Been reading on and off for a long time. Sure appreciate your work.
Not sure where to post a question regarding choosing my first higher end air rifle. I’m considering the Walther rotek.
Is there a better topic for me to post my question with some more detail?
Welcome to the blog.
You can post any question to the most current report, so you’re almost there. Many readers will see this.
Go ahead and post to today’s report, which is always here: