Sig Air M17 ProForce airsoft pistol: Part 4

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Sig M17 Proforce airsoft pistol
Sig M17 ProForce airsoft pistol.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

This report covers:

  • Two potential BBs
  • The test
  • Sensitive Hop-Up
  • Hand-held
  • Messing around
  • Best hold
  • 10 shots timed fire
  • Perspective
  • Summary

Today we take a second look at the Sig ProForce M17 airsoft pistol running on CO2. I discovered last time that the Hop-Up adjustment is very sensitive. I also discovered a couple BBs that are potentially the best in this pistol when it’s running on CO2. You will recall that I also have a magazine that takes a green gas charge, so that’s going to be a separate accuracy test that I will do in the future.

Two potential BBs

The two BBs that seemed to be the best last time are the Infinity 0.25-gram and the Valken Accelerate 0.25-gram BB. Both of these are biodegradable. The Infinity seemed to edge the Valken just a little, so I started the test with it.

The test

I shot the pistol from 10 meters. Every target you see today was shot with a 6 o’clock hold (the top of the front sight level with the top of the rear sight and the bottom center of the bull resting on the front sight). I will describe the hold and everything else I did with the pistol in each target discussion because I changed it a lot. I shot 5-shot groups for record except at the end, and I’ll show that to you when we get there.

Sensitive Hop-Up

Last time the pistol was shooting low, so at the end of that day I cranked the Hop-Up all the way up, which was less than half a complete turn. With that adjustment the BBs climbed to the top of the target paper with a 6 o’clock hold. So, for today’s first test I dialed the Hop-Up back down slightly.

I shot the first target with the pistol resting on the sandbag. The underside of the frame ahead of the triggerguard (where the Picatinny rail is) was on the bag for this. I used a 6 o’clock hold. To my surprise all but one of the BBs hit the bullseye, so my first Hop-Up adjustment was almost perfect. Five shots are in 2.17-inches between centers at the bottom of the bull.

Infinity rested
At 10 meters 5 Infinity BBs are in 2.17-inches at the bottom edge of the bull. I didn’t use the dime today because all these groups are too large, but the white BB is 6mm (0.236″).

Guys — this is a very good group with an airsoft pistol. I know I have told you about half-inch groups at 10 meters, and I have seen them, but most airsoft pistols don’t do this well. I have another airsoft gun that runs on both CO2 and green gas and it doesn’t compare to this one on CO2.

Hand-held

Reader Rk wanted to know if the pistol would shoot better when held off the bag by two hands instead of resting on the sandbag. Since the gun seemed to already be hitting close to where I wanted it, I didn’t adjust the Hop-Up for this.

This was my second test, and things looked very good from behind the pistol. But when I went downrange and saw the target — ugh! Five BBs went into 3.761-inches at 10 meters. Nope, hand-holding doesn’t work very well. I did rest my hands on the sandbag for stability, so that might have been an influence, but since I’m doing so much better by resting the gun directly on the bag, I returned to that. I’m not trying to get the gun to shoot at its best today — I’m trying to find out which of the two BBs is the better one. It’s a subtle difference.

 

Infinity hand-held
Hand-held didn’t do so well. I know this looks like 4 holes, but the hole directly below the white BB has two shots through it. And there is a third hole in the white just below and right of that.

Messing around

Following this I tried several different holds and also adjusted the Hop-Up again to bring the BBs higher. I’m not showing those targets because there isn’t much to see. In the end I decided that adjusting the Hop-Up slightly up the second time like it was on the previous target was the best way to go.

I also shot several groups with the Valken Accelerate BB at this time, but there wasn’t anything worth showing. After several groups and a couple of hold adjustments, I returned to the Infinity BB as the best one for this pistol when it’s running on CO2.

Best hold

While messing around I decided the best hold is to rest the bottom of the pistol grip on the sandbag. That gives good stability. The sights seem dead stable and I can hold a good sight picture that way.

The next 5 shots went into 2.179-inches at 10 meters with 4 of them in the bull. The size of this group is so close to the size of the first group that either of them could be the better one. Measuring holes made by low-velocity round balls isn’t exactly precise. It’s more of a guesstimate, with a larger margin for error than with pellets.

 

Infinity butt-rested
Resting the butt on the sandbag seems to be the best way to go. Five shots are in 2.179-inches at 10 meters.

10 shots timed fire

At this point in the test I had shot more than 60 aimed shots and I was getting tired, but I wanted to give the last hold (butt rested) another try. So I loaded 10 Infinity BBs and fired 10 shots of timed fire. Timed fire is slower than rapid fire but much faster than deliberate bullseye-type single shots. The NRA defines it as 5 shots in 20 seconds. Each of my shots went off in 5-8 seconds. Shootski wanted me to do a Jeff Cooper, but the last time I saw Jeff before he passed away, he was riding around in an electric wheelchair at the SHOT Show. And on my best day with a handgun I was no match for Jeff Cooper on his worst day. He shot (to kill) with two hands and I usually shoot bullseyes with one. I put 10 shots into 4.634-inches at 10 meters.

 

Infinity timed-fire
Ten timed fire shots with Infinity BBs went into 4.643-inches at 10 meters. It’s not impressive, but that’s on me — not the pistol.

Perspective

Now, I will put today’s test into the proper perspective. This airsoft pistol is not for shooting at paper targets. I only did it to find the best BB for the gun, which I found very easily.

Can I hand-hold the pistol and get groups like these at 10 meters? Not a chance! But that isn’t what this airsoft pistol was made for, either. This is a sidearm for skirmishers, and it can easily hit an opponent at 10 or even 20 meters when shot by a capable marksman. For distances beyond that you use longarms.

Summary

Now that I know which BB the pistol likes best with CO2 it’s time to test it with green gas. The best BB for that could be different, and the Hop-Up might also operate a little differently because as we learned in Part 2, the velocities will be 100 f.p.s. slower. However, in my limited experience, green gas should have an accuracy edge over CO2.


FX Dreamlite precharged air rifle : Part 5

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

FX Dreamlite
FX Dreamlite precharged pneumatic rifle.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 1 UTG 4-16 OP3 Compact scope

This report covers:

  • Mounting the scope
  • Sunscreen
  • Clear, clear, clear!
  • First target
  • Target two
  • JSB Beasts
  • Crosman Premier Lights give strange group(s)!
  • Crosman Premier Heavy
  • Second attempt
  • Summary for the UTG scope
  • Summary for the FX Dreamlight

Today is really two reports in one. I’m covering the new UTG 4-16 AO Compact scope and this is also the fifth report on the FX-Dreamlite precharged pneumatic air rifle. I’m glad I got back to it because I found a second good pellet for the rifle today. But first the scope.

Mounting the scope

Because the FX Dreamlite is such a drooper I tried to use the Sportsmatch 30mm high adjustable scope mounts. The would have been ideal, but they don’t work because of the FX 21-shot magazine that sticks up so high above the top of the receiver. I ended up using the True Strength mounts that came with the UTG scope and I shimmed under the scope on the rear ring. The scope barely fit so the magazine can be installed. And yes, I am aware there is a Mini FX 10-shot rotary magazine available. I just don’t have one. But that’s what this rifle needs.

FX Dreamlite UTG OP3 scope
The new UTG OP3 scope mounted on the Dreamlite looks like it was made for the rifle.

FX Dreamlite UTG OP3 clearance
The 21-shot magazine just clears the scope. A 10-shot Mini Mag would be better.

Sunscreen

This UTG scope comes with a separate sunscreen that screws into the objective end of the scope. It’s three inches long, so it provides good protection from the sun. If you have never experienced it, when the sunlight falls on the objective lens it flares up as a bright spot that ruins your aim. You loose the reticle and sometimes even the target when this happens. But this new scope has you covered.

Clear, clear, clear!

Sight-in started at 12 feet and then moved to 10 meters. When I got back to the shooting distance of 25 yards I got the scope fully adjusted and the image was crystal clear. I could not see the thin black crosshair over the bull, so I turned on the illumination — exactly as I did with the Meopta Optika6! Then it was clear as a bell and I could also see the 10-dot of the bull. This scope is as clear and sharp as I told you yesterday. Now I’m going to switch to the report on the rifle, but I have more to say about the scope as we go.

First target

I sighted-in with 8.44-grain JSB Exacts that so far were the most accurate pellets for this rifle. So, the first target was a group of 10 of them. The group measures 0.454-inches between centers. It’s higher than the center of the bull to preserve my aim point. It’s also a little left of center.

FX Dreamlite UTG OP3 JSB 844 group 1
The first 25-yard group of JSB Exact 8.44-grain pellets measures 0.454-inches between centers.

Target two

I adjusted the scope several clicks to the right and several clicks down and shot the second group with the same pellet. This time 10 JSB 8.44-grain pellets went into 0.388-inches at 25 yards. This group is also rounder than the last. I think I was getting into the groove. The FX trigger is light and crisp, but I shoot so many airguns that I forget how each one likes to be held and shot, and it takes some time to remember them. The Dreamlite holds steady and the trigger is superb!

FX Dreamlite UTG OP3 JSB 844 group 2
This 25-yard group of JSB 8.44-grain domes measures 0.388-inches between centers.

I would also like to point out that this UTG scope is displaying absolutely no stiction. When the adjustments are made the pellets go to the new location on the first shot. That is something I seldom see in a scope test. It usually takes one or two shots to jiggle the erector tube to the new setting.

JSB Beasts

I tried the JSB Beast pellet again. This time they were all over the place and only 4 of 5 hit the target paper. They measure 2.215-inches between centers, but without shot 5 they aren’t a real group. I quit this pellet after 5 shots.

FX Dreamlite UTG OP3 JSB Beast group
JSB Beasts are not for the FX Dreamlite.

Crosman Premier Lights give strange group(s)!

Next I tried some 7.9-grain Crosman Premier lights. Would their harder lead be better in the Smooth Twist II barrel? I only loaded 5 pellets after seeing what the JSB Beasts had done.
The first 5 Premiers went into 0.371-inches. Huzzah! Had I finally found the second good pellet for the Dreamlite? I do note that these pellets shifted off to the left on their own. The scope adjustments were not touched.

I then loaded a second five Premier Lights to complete the 10-shot group. The first shot hit the target paper an inch to the left of the last group. Huh? I had not changed a thing — and for those wondering about the barrel stability, I had not bumped the barrel when I reloaded.

These 5 Premier Lights went into an IDENTICAL 0.371-inch group whose center is about nine-tenths of an inch to the left of the first 5 shots. This is the strangest group I have ever seen and I wouldn’t believe it if I had not been there to see it! Obviously something is up, but I don’t have much to go on yet. I checked the air pressure in the reservoir and it was sitting around 180 bar at this point. That should be good. The 10 shots measure 1.158-inches between centers.

FX Dreamlite UTG OP3 Premier Light group
Twin 0.371-inch groups of Crosman Premier Lights are 0.9-inches apart at 25 yards. The entire groups measures 1.158-inches between centers. I have no idea what happened, but I’m pretty sure it wasn’t the pellet.

Crosman Premier Heavy

 
The last pellet I tested was the 10.5-grain Crosman Premier Heavy. Because of the previous strange double group I refilled the FX to 250 bar. I know from all the testing that’s been done that the regulator is working well in this rifle and I can trust it when it’s full.
I loaded 5 pellets and shot at the bull on the left of the paper. The first pellet barely nicked the left edge of the target paper. I shot the other 4 and got what appeared to be a tight little group that was right on the edge of the paper, but the pellet shift was noteworthy — very similar to that of the Premier Light.

Second attempt

I cranked a lot of right adjustment into the scope and shot a second group. This time 10 pellets were loaded into the mag. And, shot after shot, they kept going to the same place! After the fifth pellet I couldn’t see the hole grow any larger. Ten Premier Heavys went into 0.353-inches at 25 yards. Folks, we have a winner! This is the second pellet that the Smooth Twist barrel likes.

FX Dreamlite UTG OP3 Premier Heavy group
Ten Crosman Premier Heavy pellets went intro 0.353-inches at 25 yards. Yeah — that’s a group!

Summary for the UTG scope

The UTG Scope is everything I thought it would be. It’s clear, the reticle is very useful, the illumination works great (yes, I turned it off after shooting!), the mounts work great and the scope has zero stiction. The only concern is that this is a compact scope, so there are fewer placement options when mounting. Should you get one? Only if you are looking for a superlative small scope that won’t break the bank!

Summary for the FX Dreamlight

I am so glad I did today’s test. The Dreamlite is still sensitive to what pellets are used, but it now likes at least two.

The issue of the double group of Premier Lights needs to be investigated. I won’t tell you what I suspect so you can discuss it without any bias. But I do plan to test the rifle again to see if I am right.

If I hadn’t done this test I would have written the Dreamlite off, and that would have been unfortunate because there is a lot of innovation here. This rifle needs to be played with to sort things out as our friends in the UK would say. But there is a worthy air rifle here. It reminds me of my TalonSS with so many features and adjustments that it takes real dedication to get to know it. But the journey is worth the effort.


UTG 4-16X44 OP3 Compact scope : Part 1

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

UTG 4-16 OP3 Compact
UTG 4-16X44 OP3 Compact scope.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4

This report covers:

  • Huh?
  • Pyramyd Air Cup
  • What makes this scope special?
  • The reticle
  • Reticle adjustments
  • True Strength scope tube
  • Sidewheel parallax adjustment
  • Bright optics
  • Compact
  • Rings included
  • The plan
  • Summary

Huh?

Okay, Lucy (from the TV series “I Love Lucy”) got some ‘splainin’ to do. Why is today Part One of a report on the UTG 4-16 AO Compact scope and yet there are links to Parts 1, 2, 3 and 4? Well, those links all go to the FX-Dreamlite that I last tested in July. At the end of Part 4 I said I had more to test, and this is the start of it.

As you know, the Dreamlight that I tested had problems delivering the accuracy we expect from an FX. It has the Smooth Twist II barrel, which we discovered is very pellet-specific, but I still have not tested it with a good range of pellets it likes — especially the heavier ones. I told you way back in July that there was more to test and today is the start of it.

I Part 3 I had mounted a UTG 8-32X56 SWAT scope on the rifle and went through the horrendous problem of sighting it in. Because the Dreamlite that I am testing is a super drooper I had a hard time getting it to zero. But I did zero the rifle and also shot some groups. Now I want to continue testing this rifle with today’s new UTG scope.

Pyramyd Air Cup

While I was at the 2019 Pyramyd Air Cup this year, the guys from Leapers showed me a brand-new second focal plane UTG scope — the one I am reporting on today. I was stunned by its clarity. That remark deserves some explanation, because it’s the same thing I said about the new Meopta Optika6 scope I just finished testing on the S510. While I don’t compare products, one to another, I will tell you that the Optika6 is a clear winner for clarity. But, by how much? And, are you willing to pay $650 for that edge, when this beautiful new scope costs $230? I bought the Meopta to have at least one scope that compared to a $3,000+ scope. But this UTG is hands-down the clearest scope you will see at this price or even perhaps a hundred dollars more.

What makes this scope special?

This isn’t the first 4-16 power scope you have seen. That range of powers is a wonderful blend for a lot of different shooting including plinking, hunting and some target shooting. There are many other scopes with a similar power range on the market, so what makes this one stand out? Here we go.

Etched reticle
MOA reticle
Illuminated reticle
True Strength scope tube
30mm scope tube with 44mm objective lens
Sidewheel parallax adjustment from 10 yards to infinity
Zero-lockable turret knobs
Low target turrets that adjust in MOA
Compact scope body

The reticle

Like I said, this reticle is etched on glass, so it stays clear and sharp. The illumination only lights up the central cross, which is perfect for hunting in low light because there is no flareup reflection on the inside walls of the scope tube. Plus, the EZ-Tap reticle has 36 potential colors and brilliances, so there will always be a color and intensity to suit the situation. And the illumination stays on until you turn it off so you aren’t fiddling with it all the time. Press either button for two seconds to turn it off.

The reticle is a sort of duplex with a marked MOA cross in the center to help with rangefinding and shot adjustment. The reticle has hash marks that are two MOA apart on both lines. These help a shooter get on target without adjusting the scope. You just move the hash mark where the pellet is striking over to your target. Field target shooters do it all the time on windy days.


This is the OP3 reticle. Both the elevation and windage are marked in MOA. Only the small cross in the center is illuminated. This image courtesy of Leapers.

Reticle adjustments

The reticle adjusts via lower knobs that are also marked in MOA. The clicks are very muted. I can’t hear them but I can just feel them. Fortunately for me they correspond to the markings on the scale, so a visual inspection of that scale is the most accurate way to keep track for me. The locking rings are smooth and positive. And you can loosen the adjustment knobs and turn them to zero on each scale after the scope is sighted-in. An Allen screw on the edge of each knob is loosened for this.

UTG OP3 reticle adjustment
Here you see how the reticle adjustment knobs are marked. You can also see the screws that are loosened to slip the adjustment knobs to zero.

True Strength scope tube

UTG’s True Strength scope tube is machined from a solid aluminum billet. Unlike some scopes with tubes made from parts that are pressed together, True Strength tubes are solid. That means the scope is extra rugged, and Leapers tests for this with Mil Spec shock tests.

Sidewheel parallax adjustment

Of course this scope has the parallax adjustment on the side. UTG has been an industry leader in putting it there. Perhaps you don’t understand why it is in that location. You only have to hold a heavy rifle with one hand one time while trying to reach out to the objective bell to adjust to appreciate why it’s there This is something airgunners did first and best. Just 5 years ago the firearm industry was doing backflips over this “new” innovation that we have enjoyed for more than two decades.

Leapers also sent along an 80mm adjustment wheel that I will attach, once the scope is mounted and zeroed. That’s the way you want it, because not only does the larger wheel give you more purchase for adjusting; if you re-calibrate your personal scope, a larger wheel gives more space for accurate yard markers. Not that a 4-16 scope is used for rangefinding very much, but hunters should appreciate it.

Bright optics

UTG scopes have always been bright and this one is no exception. The 30mm scope tube means the lenses inside the scope can be larger and the 44mm objective lens allows a lot of light to pass through. Of course when the light gets real low you can always do better when a lower magnification is selected.

Compact

This is one of the most attractive features. All this performance comes to you in a compact package. I have 4-16 scopes that weigh a pound more and are a good 4-inches longer. This scope isn’t quite in the Bug Buster class, but it isn’t a lot larger. It weighs 21.5 ounces and is only 11-1/8-inch long. It’s the size of a 4-power scope from 20 years ago. Now, that can be a good thing but also cause some concern. The length of the scope tube where the rings attach has to be shorter to keep the overall length down. That can make mounting on some airguns a little tricky. Tomorrow I will show you how I mounted it on the FX Dreamlite which is one of the most challenging PCPs to scope because of the tall 21-shot magazine that sticks out high above the top of the receiver.

Rings included

The scope comes with two Max Strength Picatinny/Weaver rings. If you want to mount it to an 11mm dovetail be sure to pick up a set of UTG 11mm (3/8″) Dovetail to Weaver Adapters.

The plan

The way I plan to test this new scope is to shoot the Dreamlite at 25 yards with pellets we have already seen tested. The first scope was a 32 power, so this 16-power will be challenged. But I did it with the 3-16 Meopota scope and I believe this one can do it as well. That will also give me a good idea of how sharp the image really is.

After we see that I plan to test the Dreamlite with other premium pellets to see if I can find a second one that’s good in this barrel. This UTG scope will stay mounted for that test, too.

Summary

It looks like UTG has brought out another great scope that we need to be aware of. The size is convenient, the features are impressive and if the performance bears out, we will have another excellent scope to consider.


The basics of shooting: Part 4

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

This report covers:

  • When the target is close, things change
  • Not about the snake
  • Trajectory — part one
  • What it looks like to you
  • Relationship of the sights to the bore
  • Sight-in at 10-12 feet
  • How I sight in a scope
  • Remember the snake
  • Different ammo
  • Discount store pellets
  • The deal
  • New pellets
  • Fishing sinker larvae
  • How much influence is the pellet?
  • Summary

Before we start let me tell you that I wanted to finish my report on the IZH MP532 rear sights today. The reason I didn’t is because as time passes I learn more and more about them. I want to make certain that I have explored everything I can when I write that report. It will also have at least one video.

For today I thought I would return to this subject that many readers seem to enjoy. Please understand that B.B. Pelletier isn’t the world’s authority on shooting. I do know some things, though, and I enjoy writing about them. If what I know can help anybody, then I have done my job.

When the target is close, things change

Let’s start with a fact that seems to escape people until it’s too late. You sight in your deer rifle for 100 yards, knowing that you will probably encounter a deer anywhere from 50 to 125 yards where you hunt. If it’s greater than 125 yards you probably won’t take the shot.

Then, while you are walking to where the hunt starts, you encounter a copperhead snake on the trail. He is 15 feet away and he must be cold because copperheads are aggressive and they are known to attack, similar to water moccasins, though not quite as aggressive.

All you have is your deer rifle. You can barely see the snake through your 6-power scope. So — where do you aim? You don’t have a backup gun (put that on the list), so it’s either the deer rifle you’re carrying or time to start backing up. The trail you are on is cut into the side of a steep hill and it’s 3 feet wide. Kill the copperhead or go back!

Not about the snake

This is not about the snake. This is about suddenly realizing that all your planning for this hunt while you were sitting in your comfy recliner at home has not prepared you for a shot like this. You are prepared for shooting at 50 to 125 yards. Where will your bullet be at 15 feet from the muzzle?

Now, there is a secret to successfully shooting snakes, and for an extra 10 percent (each) over what you normally pay me, I will divulge it. But it’s not why we’re here. We are talking about the basics of shooting and this brings us to our first teaching point. Bullets and pellets do not travel in a straight line. The instant they emerge from the barrel, gravity starts to act on them and they fall to the ground just as fast as if you dropped them from your hand — assuming the barrel is level and the muzzle and hand are at the same height.

Trajectory — part one

You adjust the open sights or the scope to look DOWN through the trajectory of the falling pellet as it travels downrange. The adjustments are subtle, but I will exaggerate them to illustrate. And, from this point on I will be talking about a scope.

Trajectory 1
This is what happens with your pellet gun and sights. The down angles are exaggerated to fit on this page.

In the drawing above the scope is adjusted to just touch the pellet at one place in its trajectory. The rifle would then be sighted in for that one distance. Notice that the line of sight and the trajectory stay together for some distance. You are actually sighted-in for all those distances. But that might only be 5-10 feet, because as the pellet falls it also gains speed. The downward curve gets steeper.

What it looks like to you

The drawing above is correct, but we don’t see it that way. When we hold the rifle and sight through the scope it looks like this.

Trajectory 2
We hold the rifle level, so the line of sight both appears and actually is level. The trajectory, which we know is always falling down from the muzzle now looks like this.

Drawing number two is the reason why some people think that a bullet or pellet rises after it leaves the muzzle. The truth is — the angle of the scope only makes it look that way.

Relationship of the sights to the bore

The sights are mounted above the axis of the bore. In the case of a scope, they are probably 1.5 inches or more above the center of the bore. If you were to touch a paper target with the muzzle of your rifle and shoot, and if you could look through the scope and see the same target paper, the difference between where you were looking and where the pellet hit the paper would be the same distance that the scope is above the bore.

Sight-in at 10-12 feet

This is why I begun sighting in my scopes in at 12 feet. I would do it at 10 feet, but the door jamb I use to steady the rifle is 12 feet from my pellet trap. Over such a short distance I don’t expect the pellet to “rise” very much. If the center of the scope is 2.2 inches above the center of the bore I expect the pellet to hit the target about 2.2-inches below the aim point. If it does and if the pellet is pretty close to the centerline left and right, I feel confident to back up to 10 meters (11 yards or about 33 feet).

If the scope is sighted to angle down correctly, I expect the pellet to strike the target about one inch below the aim point when I shoot at 10 meters. If it does, or after I adjust the scope I can get it to that point, I know I can back up to 25 yards and the pellet will be pretty close to right on target. Now let’s see why.

How I sight in a scope

For an air rifle shooting a pellet of any caliber at 825 f.p.s. (which is slightly over 12 foot-pounds for an 8-grain .177-caliber pellet) I sight in for 20 yards. You may have read about the first and second impact points. I will explain them now. First, look at the drawing.

Trajectory 3
In this drawing we have zoomed in for more detail. The line of sight has been adjusted to pass through the trajectory at 20 yards, meaning it is sighted-in at that distance. Then, as the pellet goes farther, it appears to rise just a bit above the line of sight. Then, at around 28 to 30 yards, the trajectory brings it back down to the line of sight again.

Nothing has changed from the first drawing, except that I leveled the line of sight and now we have zoomed in for greater detail. Let me show you what this looks like when shooting a pellet.

Pellet flight
The thin line is the desired impact point. This drawing represents the height of the pellet, relative to the line of sight when an 825 f.p.s. pellet is sighted-in at 20 yards.

As the drawing shows, the pellet is pretty much on target between 20 and 30 yards, give or take. When I shot field target and held over instead of adjusting the elevation for each shot, this is how I zeroed the rifle. If your rifle shoots faster than 825 f.p.s., the pellet remains on target longer — perhaps out to 35 yards.

Remember the snake

Now let’s talk about how close airguns usually are to their targets and the problem it presents. While a snake at 15 feet is a problem for someone with a deer rifle, it’s well within range of some airgunners. For example, a bug buster (I mean a person, not a type of scope) who shoot harmful insects with airguns typically shoot at this sort of distance. Goodie for them, but after the previous discussion I hope you appreciate that if they are off in their range estimation by a few feet they could miss the hornet altogether. A deer hunter can be off his aim point by an inch at 100 yards and nobody is the wiser. But if an airgunner is off by a quarter-inch at 18 feet he may never touch the target!

Maybe you don’t shoot at insects, but this is the same problem field target shooters face with every target. Those 3/8-inch kill zones at 11 yards are far more difficult to hit than the one-inch kill zones at 35 yards!

Yes, the close distances to the targets that airgunners face are a real problem! They are the exact reverse of the problems a varmint hunter goes through. If his range is off on a prairie dog at 279 yards, he can either miss altogether or make a bad shot, which is even worse. An airgunner faces the same thing for different reasons at ranges of less than 20 yards.

Different ammo

The problem of the best (most accurate) ammo is the same one that firearm shooters face. Firearm shooters have the advantage that they can create their own ammunition by reloading, though most of them don’t. Airgunners can’t reload, but through pellet head sorting (by size) and weight sorting they can exercise some control over what they shoot. And the ammo makes all the difference. For some airguns (remember how picky the FX Dreamlite was?) there are only one or two good pellets. It’s not a matter of buying the cheapest pellet; it’s a matter of finding the most accurate one and laying in a supply of them.

Discount store pellets

If you own an airgun that likes one of the pellets they sell at your local discount store, consider yourself blessed! Crosman pellets sometimes turn out well and some Gamo pellets do, too. But the odds are against you that they will be the best. Of course it does depend on what kind of shooting you are doing, too. If you are just plinking at targets of opportunity — like at a family picnic — those can be the best pellets of all. But for toppling squirrels out of the trees at 40 yards, I think not.

The deal

Sooner or later you face reality. If you are an airgunner and plan to remain one, you will build up a supply of different pellets over time. We all do. You may have started out small and you may have the parsimony of Scrooge, however there is no getting past those half-empty tins of pellets that went out of your favor five years ago, but are still in your cabinet. And don’t forget those five used tins that one of your bowling buddies gave you last year. This stuff accumulates! This is the pile of different pellets you start testing from.

New pellets

Now we come to the real crux of the matter — new pellets. These are the ones you have to buy. I have developed a simple set of rules over the year and maybe it will help you.

1. JSB makes fine pellets. Buy from them without fear. And that includes all the known companies that rebrand JSB pellets — like Air Arms.
2. H&N makes fine pellets. Buy from them and their rebranders like Beeman without fear.
3. Most RWS pellets are fine. A couple of the lower-priced ones are on the fringe of fine.
4. Most Crosman pellets are great quality. They are harder than other pellets, and in faster airguns they do lead the bore. But if the velocity stays below 850 f.p.s., they are great.
5. Buy lead-free pellets with caution. In the past they were all gimmicks. Today there are some superb ones on the market, yet there are still many that are gimmicks.
6. Pellets made in China can surprise you — especially target wadcutters. I used to compete at the national level with Chinese target pellets — not because they were cheap but because they were the most accurate in my airgun.
7. Korean pellets tend to be heavier because they are made for hunting. In Korea an airgun is considered to be a firearm, and the Koreans take their powerful PCPs seriously!
8. If you find a pellet that is unknown to you there is probably a good reason. Proceed with caution.

Fishing sinker larvae

There are pellets that come from all places that have no business calling themselves pellets. Oh, they will have some whomptydoodle name dreamed up by the marketing department and slapped on the tin, but just remember — names don’t do the job. These “pellets” are suitable for breaking in an airgun, bundling with a gun you are selling to sweeten the deal, donating to your Lion’s Club carnival for the balloon bust game or just crimping on to your fishing leader for added weight.

My pellet rules apply mainly to US and Canadian airgunners. In other parts of the world there are no doubt pellet makers that provide fine products I have never heard of.

How much influence is the pellet?

Some guns shoot most anything put into them. Most guns favor a couple pellets over the rest. And some guns are very picky about what they shoot. Your first job is to discover which kind of gun you have — shoots anything, likes certain ones or is quite picky — and only after that should you find out which pellets it likes. Finding that out means discovering how the gun likes to be held, whether or not the barrel is clean, etc. — the stuff we covered in Parts 1 through 3 of this series.

Summary

That’s enough for this report. We have really only addressed two major things today, but I have gone intro considerable depth with each of them. Next time I will look at eye dominance and its affect on accuracy and anything else you guys can think of.


IZH MP532 target rifle: Part 3

by Tom Gaylord

Writing as B.B. Pelletier

IZH MP532
IZH MP532 single stroke target rifle.

Part 1
Part 2

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • BIG discovery
  • The test
  • Sight-in with RWS Meisterkugeln
  • H&N Match Green
  • Qiang Yuan Training pellets
  • Trigger has great control
  • RWS R10 Match Pistol
  • Where are the good groups?
  • H&N Finale Match Rifle
  • RWS Hobby
  • Still unaware
  • The second rifle
  • First shot — ah HA!
  • Finale Match Heavy
  • Qiang Yuan Training pellets
  • Rear sight
  • Summary

BIG discovery

Settle in, kids, because today holds a huge discovery. Today I shoot the two IZH MP532 rifles for accuracy.

The test

I shot off a rest at 10 meters. Since a single stroke pneumatic doesn’t recoil, the gun can be rested directly on the bag. I shot 5 shots at each target so I could test more pellets, and there were also two rifles to test. I began the test with the latest rifle that was made in 2007.

I started the test by pumping the lever 3/4 of the way 20 times to flex and warm up the pump cup. Then on every shot I pumped 3/4 of the way, relaxed and then pumped all the way. We learned in Part 2 that this makes the rifle shoot as fast as it can and also keeps the velocity stable.

Sight-in with RWS Meisterkugeln

The first pellet I tested was the RWS Meisterkugeln Rifle wadcutter. And the first job was to sight the rifle in. Where would the first pellet land? Imagine my surprise to see that it struck the bull near the center. Okay, sight-in is over and that was shot number one of the first group. Four shots later there were five pellet holes that measure 0.299-inches between centers. Notice that this is a somewhat vertical group.

Meisterkugeln group
Five RWS Meisterkugeln Rifle pellets went into 0.299-inches at 10 meters. The highest hole was the first shot.

H&N Match Green

Next up were 5 H&N Match Green target pellets. They went into a 0.39-inch group that is also vertical. I will discuss that in a while, but notice that 4 pellets are in a small hole on the bottom, with one pellet higher and apart from the rest. I will have something to say about that later and it goes with the vertical groups.

H&N Match Green group
Five H&N Match Green pellets are in 0.39-inches at 10 meters.

Qiang Yuan Training pellets

Next I tried some Qiang Yuan Training pellets. They made a round-ish group that measures 0.24-inches between centers. This is the first group that wasn’t vertical and I wondered why.

Qiang Yuan Training group
Five Qiang Yuan Training pellets made a nice cloverleaf that’s 0.24-inches between centers. This one isn’t vertical.

Trigger has great control

I was now in a position to better evaluate the trigger and it is wonderful. I feel stage two every time and it breaks like a glass rod. At 13 ounces it’s heavy for a 10 meter rifle trigger, but it’s so predictable that it works.

RWS R10 Match Pistol

Next to be tried were the RWS R10 Match Pistol pellets. Five of them went into a nice round 0.265-inch group at 10 meters. But they are just as low on the bull as the heavier pellets, so I decided to adjust the rear sight up. It moved one click and then stopped. I couldn’t get the knob to rotate more. I wondered what the problem was and I will get to it in a bit. It has to do with those vertical groups, too.

R10 Match Pistol group
Five RWS R10 Match Pistol pellets went into 0.265-inches at 10 meters.

Where are the good groups?

These groups may look small to some of you, and for a sporting air rifle they are, but they are large for a 10 meter target rifle. A Daisy 853 will shoot smaller groups than this! Don’t worry, though. I discovered the reason and it’s coming up soon.

H&N Finale Match Rifle

The next pellet I tried was the H&N Finale Match Heavy wadcutter. Five of them went into 0.149-inches at 10 meters. That is a decent group and it’s also the best one with this particular rifle, but I think it’s not the best the rifle can do.

Finale Match Heavy group
Five H&N Finale Match Heavy pellets went into 0.149-inches at 10 meters. It’s worthy of the gold dollar!

RWS Hobby

The last pellet I tried in this rifle was the unbiquitous RWS Hobby. I hadn’t quite discovered that big thing I told you about yet, but I was getting close, so I shot these Hobbys better because I shot them differently. And they grouped better for me. Five went into a nice round 0.175-inches at 10 meters. That’s trime territory!

RWS Hobby group
Five RWS Hobbys made this 0.175-inch group at 10 meters. That merits the trime!

Still unaware

At this point in the test I knew something was wrong but I didn’t know what. I knew I couldn’t adjust the rear peep any higher by hand, so all the groups had to be low. That was a big clue, but I hadn’t caught on just yet. It was time to shoot the second rifle.

The second rifle

The second rifle was produced in 1997, making it 10 years older than the first rifle. I used the same warmup procedure (20 partial pumps to warm the pump cup) and a partial stroke before every pump stroke for each shot.

This rifle has a clear plastic aperture insert for the front sight, and I selected one that was only ever-so-slightly larger than the bullseye. It was very difficult to work with. If I shoot the rifle again I will swap it for an insert with a larger hole.

I decided to shoot only the three best pellets from the first rifle, which were H&N Finale Match Heavys, Hobbys and Qiang Yuans. However, things never got that far.

First shot — ah HA!

The first shot with H&N Finale Match Heavys hit the target about 6 inches below the aim point. So I dialed in a lot of elevation into the peep and shot again. The sight adjusted up easily. Shot two was still below the target, so I cranked in a bunch more elevation — AND RAN OUT OF ADJUSTMENT! The adjustment knob suddenly stopped. It felt just like the one on rifle number one. OH! The rear sight on rifle number one was adjusted as high as it will go and the rifle is still shooting too low! I’m learning.

Finale Match Heavy

Five Finale Match Heavy pellets hit the target about 1-1/2-inches below the aim point. They landed in an extremely vertical group that measures 0.429-inches between centers. I was almost certain the rifle was not responsible for the size of the group, and I also knew it wasn’t me. I thought it was the rear sight.

Finale Match Heavy group 2
Rifle 2 put five H&N Finale Match Rifle pellets in 0.429-inches at 10 meters. It’s a straight line, up and down!

And then it happened. Everything became crystal clear and I know the problem.

Qiang Yuan Training pellets

I then shot 5 Qiang Yuan Training pellets into another vertical group. Two shots are above three shots, with each “group” being small enough to hold a pellet by the tail. But 5 shots are in 0.445-inches. The only way this can happen is if the rear sight was moved while I shot. So I pushed on it and, sure enough, it moved. THAT WAS THE PROBLEM!

Qiang Yuan Training group 2
There are two pellets in the top hole and three below. Can you believe that? This rifle can shoot, but I need to get control of the rear sight! Five pellets in 0.445-inches at 10 meters.

I had been creeping up on the rear peep, trying to get my eye as close as possible to the peephole, but in Part 2 the first rifle’s buttstock was adjusted so long that it was very difficult to get close to that sight. Sometimes I did and other times I didn’t. The butt on rifle two wasn’t adjusted, so I got close to the peep every time. If my glasses touched the peep hole disk they pushed it forward, moving the location of the hole and changing the impact point up or down.

No sense going any farther with today’s testing. I need to find out some things about the sights and what can be done to correct the situation.

Rear sight

I’m going to write a report about that rear sight because I have just discovered a lot about it — stuff I haven’t told you yet. First, the two rifles have different rear sights! And the differences are big and they matter! Next, how you sight the rifle makes all the difference in the world. With the first rifle, when I didn’t push my face forward, the sight remained upright and my groups were smaller. When I pushed my face forward I hit the sight and it folded forward and down. Now that I know that, I am sure I can shoot better groups.

I know the MP532 isn’t an air rifle many of you will ever even see, but there are some fundamental principles at work that apply to all airguns. So this stuff is worth learning.

Summary

I had no idea this report would take the direction it has. From the shooting I did I can tell the MP-532 is about as accurate as an AirForce Edge or a Crosman Challenger PCP. It’s a worthy design that’s based on a single stroke pistol whose reputation is well-known to many of us.

We will press on and make this rifle perform to its capability before this is over. Stay tuned!


The BB-gun dueling tree from New to Old Guns: Part 1

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

dueling tree
NTOG dueling tree made to handle low energy. NTOG provided the photo.

This report covers:

  • From NTOG
  • Interested
  • Some assembly required
  • Yes, it really works!
  • M1 Carbine
  • Testing with steel BBs
  • Target operated perfectly
  • Testing with Dust Devils
  • Smart Shot
  • Modified target
  • Summary

Several weeks ago, reader New to Old Guns (NTOG) contacted me with a new project he was working on — a dueling tree for lower-powered BB guns.

Today’s target is an action target, but it’s one with a big difference. I’ll let him tell you what he first told me.

From NTOG

“It is a “down to about 1ft-lb capable shooting tree”.  Yes, you can have fun with a shooting tree with the Red Ryder!

“The short version — I realized I was having a ton of fun with the big tree “dueling” and “racing” guns like the Vectis, Sumatra, Nova Freedom, and AT44But I couldn’t shoot that tree with my son, as he’s 12 and doesn’t have anything near the about 18 ft-lb needed to flip those paddles.  I remembered a bud talking about bending and flattening cheap spoons for use as targets, and, well, one thing led to another.  Good shooting with the Red Ryder is enough to flip it.  So any BB gun shooting in the neighborhood of 300 fps will work.  That means training pistols like the Sig P226 should flip it too.  Doesn’t that open a world of entertaining practice?

“The BB ricochet problem is of course not to be ignored, but I have two observations regarding that: a) frangible BBs do exist, though I don’t know if they’ll transfer enough energy to flip the paddle b) momentum laws would say that as long as the spoon is free to spin, half the energy goes to moving the spoon.  That means any potential bounce back has already lost about half of its energy.  In our enjoyment, we’ve yet had any bounce back that we’ve noticed.

“I’d also add, it is really shines with guns like the Crosman 73 Saddle Pal, and Walther Lever ActionHonestly, the 73 was probably the most fun of them all.  Pity those aren’t still made.”

Interested

I was interested because I am working on a project to bring some informal shooting competition to the Pyramyd Air Cup next year. Out of the hundreds of people who attend, only the semi-professionals and highly advanced amateur shooters actually get to compete. Doesn’t that seem reversed? Could this dueling tree be the answer? Is it reliable enough and rugged enough to stand up to a lot of shooting? I needed to know, so I asked NTOG to send one for me to test.

Some assembly required

As you see in the first photo, the target is mounted on a long section of 5/16-inch threaded rod. He didn’t want to ship that, which I understood completely. I can buy the same rod at my hardware store, so he sent 6 of the paddle mechanisms. I bought an 18-inch length of rod plus the channel material for the base and a couple other things like washers to get started. Once it was assembled I did some testing right away.

Yes, it really works!

The first test was successful. This target really does work. The spoons have to be loose enough to swing freely but not so loose that they wobble and rob energy from the shot. Let’s look at some detail.

dueling tree detail
This photo shows a lot of detail. You can see the bent wire that stops the paddles when they swing around. But it also made me wonder about the yellow standoff rod that holds the spoon mechanism away from the threaded rod. Is it necessary? The yellow paddle at the top is not a part of the target I am testing. NTOG provided the photo.

When I assembled the target I put just three spoons on my 18-inch threaded rod, as I was only testing the concept. And that got me shooting right away.

M1 Carbine

I chose the new Springfield Armory M1 Carbine to test the target. I wanted accuracy which that gun has in spades and I also wanted a semiautomatic because, let’s be honest — that’s what this target is all about.

Testing with steel BBs

My first test involved shooting steel BBs, because I wanted to know about bounceback. Steel BBs do bounce back from hard targets, and that’s a safety issue. I shot from inside my small patio slab that opens on the back yard and, because the threaded rod I used was low. I was shooting into the ground behind the target.

Out of about 30 BBs that were shot one did came back. It didn’t come straight back at me, it veered off the the side about 10-15 feet, but it did return. I could hear it hit the house at low velocity. So NTOG is right about the bounceback issue; it is greatly reduced. But it isn’t eliminated, and that’s what I wanted.

Target operated perfectly

I was shooting 12-15 feet from the target and the paddles operated perfectly. I had to loosen the nuts on one of them a little, but after doing that, that paddle functioned like all the rest. The paddles came to rest against the wires on either side and didn’t rebound from them very much. The worst that can happen is all the paddles rebound off the wires and swing back to the center of the target. Then you have to manually reset them to see them again.

The M1 Carbine shoots steel BBs at about 420 f.p.s at the muzzle. That’s quite a bit faster than the 275-300 f.p.s. of a Red Ryder, so now we know a range of power that this target works in.

Testing with Dust Devils

NTOG mentioned frangible BBs, so they were next. I have good news and bad news. The frangible Dust Devils did break apart on the paddles, but that pushed each paddle straight back so it wasn’t visible anymore (it was in line with my sight and too thin to see). I thought it might be just a random thing, but after 15 shots did exactly the same thing I knew this target doesn’t work with Dust Devils. Ah, but we are not out of safe BB options yet!

Smart Shot

I tried Air Venturi Smart Shot next. These lead BBs don’t bounce back, either, because lead is soft and deforms when it hits a hard target. Being non-magnetic Smart Shot doesn’t work in every BB gun, but the M1 Carbine handles it fine. Better yet — it works! It moves the paddles and it doesn’t bounce back — at least not from 100 test shots.

I have more to say but now I want to show you the target in action. Here is a little video I put together to show it. In the video I mention that Codeuce made the target, but it was really New to Old Guns.

 

Modified target

I haven’t told NTOG yet about the modifications we made to his design, so he is seeing this at the same time as you. We (my neighbor and I) were looking for ways to build the target for even less money than NTOG spent. Getting rid of the long threaded rod was a big start. If you have scrap wood lying about this target could cost you very little. But more importantly, it still works exactly like NTOG designed.

Summary

I made this report Part 1 because I think there is more to test. For example, does our modified target still work with a Red Ryder, and so on. I’m sure you readers will have more things to check.


Sig Air M17 ProForce airsoft pistol: Part 3

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Sig M17 Proforce airsoft pistol
Sig M17 ProForce airsoft pistol.

Part 1
Part 2

This report covers:

  • The test
  • Sig 0.20 gram BBs
  • TSD 0.20-gram BBs
  • Move to heavier BBs
  • Valken Accelerate 0.25-gram BBs
  • Air Venturi CQBBs 0.25-gram
  • TSD Bio 180 0.26-gram BBs
  • The Infinity Bio 0.25-gram BB
  • Hop-Up
  • 10 Infinity Bio BBs
  • Summary

You’re gonna get your money’s worth today! Today I start testing the accuracy of the new Sig Sauer M17 ProForce airsoft pistol.

The test

I shot off a rest at 10 meters. The pistol was rested directly on the sandbag. That seemed to work well and I am pleased with the results. I shot different numbers of BBs with different aim points, so I will describe what I did for each target as I go.

Sig 0.20 gram BBs

I started the test with the sample 0.20 gram BBs Sig sent with the pistol. I thought they are too light for CO2, and the velocity test in Part 2 seemed to confirm that, but Sig sent them so let’s see what they do.

I used a 6 o-clock hold for the first two shots that landed very low on the target. I marked them 1 and 2 for you. Then I switched to holding the top of the front sight at the top of the bull. I didn’t mark the first target with the aim points, so I’m telling you that shots 3 through 10 were aimed at the top of the bull. Therefore we can’t measure all 10 shots, because two aim points were used. The last 8 BBs landed in 2.452 inches at 10 meters.

Sig BBs
The first two Sig BBs (6 o-clock hold) landed low and right and I marked them. The next 8 (in the bull) were more-or-less level and slightly right of center.

TSD 0.20-gram BBs

Remember that TSD 0.20-gram BBs are on the light side. With the aim point at the top of the bull they hit high and right. Only 8 are on the target paper, including one way at the top. Those 8 are in 3.179-inches at 10 meters.

TSD BBs
TSD Tactical 0.20-gram BBs hit high, relative to the aim point. Eight BBs are in 3.179-inches between centers.

Move to heavier BBs

Okay, I don’t like what I’m seeing so far. I think the CO2 is driving those 0.20-gram BBs too fast. So the next BB weighed 0.25-grams. That would slow things down. I also loaded just 5 BBs for the next target.

Valken Accelerate 0.25-gram BBs

The M17 put 5 Valken Accelerate 0.25-gram BBs into 2.421-inches at 10 meters. That’s more like it! This airsoft gun is not made for shooting at targets; it’s a skirmishing weapon. But you don’t learn about its performance by shooting at life-sized silhouettes!

Valkan Accelerate BBs
Five Valken Accelerate 0.25-gram BBs went into 2.421-inches at 10 meters. These BBs are pure white. The bottle is gray to keep them safe from UV rays. They are also biodegradable, as more than half the airsoft BBs seem to be these days.

Now, I know the M17 can shoot. Let’s look at several more of the heavier BBs. Because the BBs are landing so far below the aim point I will load 6 instead of 5. If one should happen to hit higher, my first shot will clue me and I can change the aim point.

Air Venturi CQBBs 0.25-gram

Next up are six 0.25-gram Air Venturi CQBBs. These are also biodegradable. Six of them went into 3.79-inches at 10 meters, so they are probably not right for the M17.

Air Venturi CQBBs
Six Air Venturi 0.25-gram CQBBs went into 3.79-inches at 10 meters.

TSD Bio 180 0.26-gram BBs

Next up are six TSD 0.26-gram biodegradable BBs. These also went below the aim point, but they did center on the bull. This is the first BB to do that.

The group measures 2.519-inches between centers for six shots, plus it’s the first group to be centered, left and right. Given the imprecise aim point that’s not bad! This is a BB to test further.

TSD 26 gram BBs
Six TSD 0.26-gram Bio 180 BBs went into 2.519-inches at 10 meters. This is the first group that is centered, left and right.

The Infinity Bio 0.25-gram BB

This is the last BB I shot. The Infinity Bio 0.25-gram BB not only went higher on the target; it’s also well centered. This looks promising! Six BBs are in 2.573-inches at 10 meters, with the last five of them in just 1.477-inches! Guys — THIS is a group! This is what I have been hoping for. This M17 is a tackdriver, because I am still guesstimating my hold at the top of the bull. Time for the Hop-Up!

Infinity Bio BB
The lower left hole was the first shot. Then the M17 pounded 5 Infinity Bio 0.25-gram BBs into the bull! Six shots in 2.573-inches at 10 meters, with the last five in just 1.477-inches! This is the BB!

Hop-Up

Hop-Up is a generic term for the mechanism that puts a backspin on the BB as it leaves the barrel. That backspin is what makes it fly straight and level farther than gravity should permit.

I have two experiences with Hop-Up. In cheap airsoft pistols you use Hop Up to get the BBs to fly straight. If you don’t they will curve to one side or the other, like a baseball.

In more expensive Automatic Electric Guns (AEG) and in spring-piston sniper guns, Hop-Up makes the BBs fly level longer. It’s how you get the distance.

I had no idea of how the Hop-Up in this M17 pistol worked, except the directions were stamped right on the adjustment. Let’s look.

Hop-Up
The Hop-Up adjustment is under the barrel. Rack the slide back to see it. The instructions are stamped on it. Turn it in that direction to make the BB go up.

I adjusted it clockwise as far as it would go, because I had been aiming high and the BBs were landing low. It moved less than half a turn.

10 Infinity Bio BBs

I then shot a group of 10 Infinity Bio BBs, hoping to show you a one-inch group. This time I used a 6 o-clock hold that’s far more precise than guessing where the top of the bull is. The first BB hit at 4 o-clock in the 9-ring and I thought I was in for a ride.

But alas, the other BBs went up high. I had adjusted up too far. And also I guess I was getting tired because my group opened up to 4.279-inches between centers. Phooey! Of course the last 9 BBs are in 2.844-inches, but that’s still pretty large.

10 Infinity BBs
Ten Infinity BBs are in 4.279-inches at the top of the target. Yes, all 10 are on the paper, and the 9 at the top are in 2.844-inches.

Summary

This M17 can shoot — and I mean REALLY shoot! The Hop-Up is incredibly precise and I wasn’t anticipating that. I just horsed it around when it wanted some finesse.

The M17 definitely shoots best with 0.25 and 0.26-gram BBs when it’s running on CO2. When I switch to green gas I’ll bet the 0.20-gram BBs will be best.

The sights are not adjustable, but remember what this is. It’s a skirmishing sidearm for shooting at large targets. Today I’m just learning what it likes and how it performs. The sights work perfectly for the purpose this gun was intended.

I think you see where this is going. I have to test this pistol again on CO2, but next time I know which BBs to try and which to avoid. We are gonna have us some fun, guys!