This report covers:
- Stock screws first
- The rear stock screw
- Never fails
- Bottom line
- Stop pin
- Test it
- Are we finished?
Today I take whatever time it takes to mount the 3-12X32 Bug Buster scope on the HW 50S rifle, using the Burris XTR Signature rings. I also address the stock screws that loosened during yesterday’s accuracy test. Plus I will show you a weak spot on the Rekord trigger. Are you ready? Let’s go.
Stock screws first
First I will address the stock screws. There are only three and they are straightforward except for one that I’ll discuss.
I used a threadlocker on all the stock screws today but it wasn’t Locktite. The stuff I used is called Vibra-Tite and it’s a gel rather than a fluid. It’s from ND Industries. I think a reader recommended it to me and when I bought it I was surprised to find that it costs about three times what a similar amount of Locktite costs. I think this is the first time I’ve used it.
I accidentally deleted the photo of the Vibra-Tite on the screw threads, but suffice to say it is a gel instead of a liquid and I applied it all around the screws.
The rear stock screw
The single forearm stock screw and the front trigger guard screw are both quite large and strong. And the threads they go into are also very strong. A lot of torque can be applied to both of them. But the rear stock screw is different.
This screw passes through the rear hole in the trigger guard. It threads into a steel nut inside the Rekord trigger. And this screw is very prone to strip out if tightened too much.
Before you start criticizing Weihrauch for this design, it’s actually an improvement. A couple decades ago they simply punched that rear hole in the sheet metal Rekord box and threaded the punched-out hole. When the trigger guard screw was over-tightened on that setup it stripped out the threads in the housing, ruining it. The nut is replaceable, though I cannot find any airgun parts dealer who stocks it. Yes it is probably a standard metric nut but BB has a life and no time to look into details like that. At least not all the time! I wanna just buy a PART!
I wonder if Weihrauch considers this nut to be a non-failure point? I remember years ago working on a telecommunications system redesign for the surface Navy because their Control Data hard disk motors were failing and there were no replacements. Control Data told the Navy that those motors never failed so they never stocked replacements. And, perhaps in air-conditioned office spaces where most of these hard disks were found they never did fail. But on shipboard they did fail, and of course they did so at a time when the equipment was old, outdated and no longer available. So we had to redesign the system they were in to operate with new hard disks. This isn’t thumb-drive stuff, guys. It’s hundreds or thousands of lines of code plus lots of hardware alterations and changes to make it work. And on ships, you can’t just cut holes in the floors and walls to run cable!
The Weihrauch rear trigger guard screw is so much of a problem that a guy in the UK has come up with a solution. He calls it the Weihrauch Record Trigger Captive Nut and Rear trigger guard screw.
But BB — isn’t this pretty much what Weihrauch puts in the trigger? Yes, except nobody will sell you the captive nut.
In the end the correct thing to do is always the same. Don’t over-tighten the rear trigger guard screw if your rifle has a Rekord trigger!
That should fix the stock screw problem. Now on to the scope.
From Part 12 we learned that the first shot from the scoped HW 50S hit the target 3-1/4-inches (82.55mm) below the aim point when I shot the target from 12 feet away. No amount of scope adjustment could correct that much drop. I did adjust the scope up and to the right a lot, just to get close to where I was shooting from 10 meters. Let’s see why that was.
The Burris XTR Signature rings have bushings inside them that allow some angular movement of the scope within the rings. I showed you those rings and inserts in Part 12. But how were they set up for the HW 50S? Take a look.
When I disassembled the rear scope ring these two bushings came out. The one on the left was inside the top ring cap and the one on the right was in the bottom scope ring. When I installed the scope this time I switched them, so the one on the left was in the bottom ring. That lifts the rear of the scope, giving it a downward angle that makes the rifle shoot higher.
As you see the rear scope ring was the problem. The front ring has two thin bushings that are identical.
Reader Derrick asked me if the Burris rings have scope stops built in. I didn’t answer him yesterday because I wanted to show you today. Both rings have provisions for scope stops, but only the ring you put at the rear needs one. I didn’t put a scope stop in the rear ring yesterday and that proved to be a mistake. The rifle shot so smooth I thought I could get away with just tightening the ring clamp screws. When the rings slipped on the rifle I did stop the rearward movement by tightening the clamps on the ring bases even more, but that’s not the right way to do it. Today I installed a scope stop pin.
The scope stop pin is not threaded. It’s a plain steel pin that just pushes into the hole in the bottom of one of the ring bases. I put the stop pin in the rear stop pin hole on the rifle’s spring tube so I could position the scope as far to the rear as possible, since this Bug Buster doesn’t have much eye relief.
After correcting the rings and remounting the scope there was but one thing remaining — a test. It isn’t a complete accuracy test — just a test to confirm that the work has corrected the problem.
Standing 12 feet from the target and holding steady on a door jamb I aimed at the center of the center bullseye and fired a shot, using the same Air Arms Falcon pellet as yesterday. This time, instead of hitting 3-1/4-inches below the center bullseye aim point, the pellet hit 1-1/2inches above and one inch to the right. Yesterday I adjusted the scope up many turns of the elevation knob and also quite far to the right. Both moves loosen the erector tube return spring, making scope shift more possible. Now I need to adjust the scope down and to the left. Both will tighten the tension on the same spring.
Are we finished?
The test shot shows us the scope is now positioned correctly. All that elevation can be dialed out again, plus the right adjustment. When that’s done there will be some tension back on the erector tube return spring. But is everything as it should be?
That we don’t know yet. What is needed is another 10-meter accuracy test done as close to the same as the one in Part 12. I’m running short of RWS Meisterkugeln Rifle pellets so I may not be able to shoot a test target with those again, but I do have the other three, so that’s possible.
What that test will demonstrate is whether the “fixes” we applied today are relatively permanent or if there are still issues. You will also see the differences in the group sizes, if any, between yesterday’s test that was shot with loose stock screws and a loose erector tube return spring and now, when everything should be tight. That needs to be done before I back up to 25 yards.
The work you have seen here took me right at two hours to accomplish. Normally I won’t take that much time just to mount a scope because the four to six hours of writing and photo work plus editing makes for a long day. But I got to write about what I did today, so the setup was the report.
Now the HW 50S is set up properly — I hope. I can’t wait to see the results!