by Tom Gaylord, The Godfather of Airguns™
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
Crosman 2240 conversion to air: Part 3
Crosman 2240 conversion to air: Part 2
Crosman 2240 conversion to air: Part 1
R.A.I. Adjustable AR Adapter for Crosman 2240 pistols: Part 2
R.A.I. Adjustable AR Adapter for Crosman 2240 pistols: Part 1
WARNING: This conversion changes the operation of the pistol to use air at up to three times the pressure it was designed for. The parts that are installed are strong, but there are other parts in the gun that aren’t changed and could fail when subjected to the higher pressures. Pyramyd Air advises against making such a conversion. This report is for information, only.
The conversion with the Tech Force TF90 dot sight and adjustable stock attached.
This report covers:
• Sight-in at 12 feet
• Back to 25 yards
• End of the test
• Ft. Worth airgun show update
• Boot Campaign
Today, we’ll look at the accuracy of the 2240 on air at 25 yards. I’ve installed a 14.50-inch Crosman barrel on the gun, which boosted the velocity, as we saw last time. It also may have boosted the accuracy. Let’s find out.
The UTG Pro 6-Position Adjustable Stock has been remounted using the R.A.I. adapter. So, this is now a handy carbine.
I’m filling the pistol to 2250 psi, because I learned that was necessary when using the factory valve and a heavier striker spring. I get exactly 10 good shots per fill, which works well with my 10-shot groups.
For a sight, I installed the Tech Force TF90 dot sight that was used to test the Hakim rifle at 25 yards. We saw in that report how well this sight works, so it should work just as well on this carbine-sized gun I’ve assembled.
I sighted-in with 5 shots at 12 feet, and the gun was ready to shoot at 25 yards. I’ll show the sight-in target and explain it, so you can understand how this close sight-in works.
Sight-in at 12 feet
I sight-in at 12 feet because it’s safer. I know I’ll be on paper that close to the target, and I also know where the pellet needs to strike to be on at 20 yards. I used to sight-in all the rifles we sold at AirForce Airguns this way and was always on-target when I backed up to 23 yards. To learn more about this method, read this article.
What I’m looking for is the pellet landing in line (left and right) with the center of the bull, but as far below the center as the center of the sight is above the center of the bore. In other words, if you were to walk up to the target until the muzzle was touching the paper and center the dot (in this case) on the bull, where would the pellet strike the paper?
When you’re 10-12 feet back, the impact point doesn’t change much from that. But when you back up to 20 yards (20-30 yards, actually) the pellet rises up on the paper and ends up close to the aim point. It isn’t exact, but it’s the fastest way that I know to sight-in a pellet rifle.
My sight-in pellets were hitting the target a bit high, but not too high. Once they were centered, I left the sight where it was set and just backed up. I sighted-in with Crosman Premiers.
The first 3 pellets hit to the left of center. I adjusted the sight, and shot 4 hit to the right of center. I adjusted back to the left, and shot 5 was close to center. These are hitting too high at 12 feet, but I’ll use the setting as it is.
Back to 25 yards
The first group was fired with 14.3-grain Crosman Premier pellets. The first 3 pellets hit high and right of center. I don’t know how the rest of them hit, but you can see this is a fairly well-centered group of 10 shots. It measures 0.918 inches between centers, which isn’t too bad for a small gun like this at 25 yards. Remember — I’m shooting 10 shots instead of only 5.
Ten pellets made this 0.918-inch group at 25 yards. This is pretty good!
Again, I must comment how nice and clear the TF90 sight is. It really holds a tight group — even though the target appears very small. That makes it a confidence-builder.
Next, I tried the JSB Exact Jumbo RS pellet. These often do well in lower-powered airguns. Remarkably, they went to the same point of impact as the Premiers. That means I don’t have to change the sight settings when using either pellet. This time, 10 RS pellets made a 0.763-inch group! That was very good, I thought. Especially given that I was using a dot sight!
Ten JSB Exact RS pellets went into 0.763 inches at 25 yards. This is very good!
End of the test
I’d planned on trying Beeman Devastator pellets next; but when I filled the gun, I noticed a leak at the joint of the HiPAC tank and the pistol’s tube. It was a fast leak and obviously the o-ring wasn’t doing its job. I tried oiling the gun with silicone chamber oil and refilling it, but the leak didn’t stop. So the test was over. I have to find out the problem and fix it if I can.
I do note that the pistol leaked down to 1750 psi and stopped. When I refilled it, the leak was much slower, so the oil may have done something. I think the o-ring and groove need to be cleaned and the tank installed again. But we’ll see.
At any rate, today’s test shows promising accuracy. It may not have been complete, but I’ll return to test the gun again at 25 yards. I plan to mount the TF90 on the Crosman 1077 next, so it may be a while before I get back to the 2240.
Ft. Worth airgun show update
The hotel is filling up fast for the show. Don’t forget to come to the reception at the hotel even if you aren’t staying there. It will be 7 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Friday evening. Nothing fancy — just a chance to meet and talk about airguns before we set up Saturday morning.
I’ll be taking a caravan of people out to the range Friday afternoon from the hotel at 4 p.m. The range will be open earlier for people who want to get out there by themselves, but please tell me you are going, because this range is private. They need to know you’re coming or the gate will be locked.
We plan to start the door prize and raffle drawings very early after the show opens, and they’ll be held periodically throughout the day. Get there early and buy your raffle tickets for a chance to win a Walther LGV Competition Ultra, an AirForce Airguns CondorSS or a Hatsan AT44-10 Long QE! Since this show will probably not top a thousand attendees, you’ll have a real chance to win one of these fabulous rifles. And everyone who pays admission gets a chance to win an Air Venturi Bronco and a Benjamin Trail NP2 door prize!
Another group coming to the show is the Boot Campaign — a Texas-based nonprofit organization dedicated to the military (past and present) and their families — cultivating awareness, promoting patriotism and providing assistance.
Also, American Airgunner TV host Rossi Morreale will be attending the show, as he’s interviewing the ladies from the Boot Campaign.
I’ll have more news about the show as it develops.
106 thoughts on “Crosman 2240 conversion to air: Part 4”
I say that’s some good shoot’n for that short .22 cal. barrel. And the red dot does seem to be a nice match for the gun.
And I’m curios to see where you developed a leak at. Mine still has the factory red seal in it and I fill exactly to 2000 psi and it has absolutely no leak down even after sitting a week without shooting. I always fill my pcp guns up to their normal fill pressure that I shoot them at when I store them. And since this conversion doesn’t have a gauge I always hook my buddy bottle up and check the air pressure to see if it held before I shoot. I did that always with my Talon SS that had the standard tank without the gauge also.
And tell me this. Does the gun feel light and balanced when you hold it. I still have the 1399 stock on mine and I can pick my gun up off the table with one hand by gripping the stock where it rest up against your shoulder and I even got that long 23” barrel on mine. And do you like the way it feels when you hold it? With both the RAI adapter and AR stock or the 1399 stock the gun just seem to fit me naturally for some reason. But what do you think about it being considered a good light weight gun to train kids with. What do you think BB?
The gun does feel light but definitely butt-heavy. I shot it off a bag, so I don’t have the feel down yet.
The leak is at the joint where the HiPac tank screws into the gun, so it is the o-ring at that point. It seems to have slowed way down, so I will play with it before I take the gun apart.
Gunfun and to all here
I just got done chrony testing my 2240 hi-pac conversion. Here is the specifics of the gun make up
Stock 2240 gun with a hi-pac +2 extensions with 18 inch 22 cal barrel, stock hammer spring and valve with the transfer port drilled out to 11/64″ and 1/4″ spot faced to .050″ deep, Ice maker plastic tubing with a 11/64″ ID for transfer port bushing, barrel port drilled to 11/64″ with 1/4″ spot faced to .050″ deep, end of hi-pac that seats on the stock valve with black seal was drilled out to 1/8″ to provide clearance for valve piercing end to fit without binding on the hole in end of hi-pac cylinder, polished trigger, sear and hammer surfaces to a mirror finish, made bushing for screw that holds valve in tube to keep port centered in the tube opening for transfer bushing, hollow flow thru bolt probe with extended tip to seat pellet past transfer port in barrel.
Here are the chrony numbers starting with a 2000 psi fill and shooting down to 800 psi I got a total of 64 shots with 62 of them being over 500 fps, with the highest being 612.6 at shot # 43, the lowest being 490.5 at shot # 1, this is the actual fps in the two 32 shot strings with no refill of the gun.
the low for this string is 490.5, high 608.7, extreme spread 118.1, AVG 577.6 and SD 28.60
The low for this string is 498/1, high 612.6, ES 114.4, AVG 568.6, SD 31.03
I was surprised to get 62 shot that were over 500fps on a single fill and to have averages of 577.6 and 568.6 in the two 32 shot strings the end pressure in the gun was at 800 psi from a starting point of 2K psi.
I cannot wait till I get my adjustable hammer spring part and can put the heavy black spring in and crank it up to full power and see what it put out.
I will post result when those changes are made.
Gunfun and all
Those numbers were achieved using the crosman premier hollow points from the tins of wally world at 14.3 grs. I forgot to state the pellets used for the testing.
Haha you beat me to it. I asked that below in my reply to you.
Also I forgot to ask. You get to hit any targets with it today after settling down after your yellow jacket sting on your ear yesterday.
Also did you scope it our did you put the TF90 on that you got? I have used both on my guns like these. The 1377/1322 and my 2240 conversion. And with good luck. But I will say the farther out I got the scope started to win out over the dot sight. And of course that’s me and my eye sight. Maybe you and other people can do better at distances with open sights or dot sights. But I would like to know what you think about accuracy. Let me know when you get some testing done.
That sounds great. Ain’t it amazing how efficient the HPA makes the gun.
And I can already tell you that when you get the adjustable end cap on and turn up the spring pressure that you will be getting some even better velocity readings. Your guns going to pick up big time. The main reason I know there is more in it because of the number of shots your getting. Your shot count will probably drop. But I think you will be happy with the power results.
Oh and you didn’t say what pellet or what grain it was. Was it the Crosman premiers or the JSB’s?
I have not decided on what sighting I will end up with as I just put the Bushnell 4x32m scope that was on it to do the chrony testing. I am very happy with the results on just the stock setup, I will wait until I get my power adjusters to get it tuned and then from how it performs with it adjusted will dictate my sighting choices. I would like to get at least 20 to 25 shots in the 850 to 900 fps range out of a fill at 3K and if I can achieve that it will probably get the hawke scope put on it and I will put my 10×40/50mm on the hatsan. I will just wait and see how it performs with the adjusters.
The TF-90 is probably going to go on the 60C for a backyard plinker as I am like you with my eyes in that anything over 20 yards I need magnification to be accurate with a gun. Then when I get my 177 hi-pac done it is going to be dedicated to use for the field target range matches because I can shoot the 10.5 gr CP at 900 fps and still be under their 20 fpe rating for the hunter class and with the LW barrel it should be a very accurate gun and light weight making it easy to handle and shoot in the varying positions and terrain that the course is on. I have got a new Leupold scope from ebay for 50 bucks that is a 3.5×10/40mm side focus with illuminated range finding reticle in red or green or plain black that will go on the 177.
Got my 177 breech just a little while ago, still waiting for the forearms.
I am very happy with the 22 hi-pac and it actually surprised me in how efficient it is in the stock setting and only take about 40 pumps to fill from zero pressure. There is definitely more to get out of it for sure, I can’t wait to get to start tuning it because that for me is where all the fun comes from by seeing how every little change make a big difference in the performance,
I will keep you updated.
Bulldawg: Well done! I have the spring adjuster from a 2300s, which did not work with yhe black spring (fyi).
I got a “power spring” from alliancehobby.com which works swimmingly. I think you’ll like the results when you get the striker spring/adjuster installed. With a stock valve and a 24″ barrel I can avrerge over 700fps for 30 shots with those same pellets. Check out your fpe when increase the pellet weight too! I look forward to finding out how this setup works out for you, as I’m currently building an 18″ bnm shrouded barrel hipac gun with a 10 round rotary magazine breech (bnm). Good luck!
I am quite pleased with my 22 hi-pac conversion and am eagelyr awaiting my power adjusters. I ordered the ones for a benji Prod because from looking at all the schematics on the crosman site it looked like the Prods would fit right in place of the stock end cap and they were only 35 bucks for two end caps and spring guide/adjuster including shipping. I got one for the 22 hi-pac and one for my 177 hi-pac also. You said that you could not use the black spring that came with the hi-pac kit, it does look a little short and very stiff, I have some other springs from 760s and 853s that I can play with to find one that can be adjusted to get the power and fps I am looking for.
I would like to get at least 20 shots in the 850 to 900 fps range with my 22 at 3k psi with the CP 14.3gr pellets. I would like to get the same with my 177 with 10.5 gr CPs also. so I will see when I get the adjusters and do some tuning.
I would like to hear more about the hi-pac repeater you are building also, especially the part details of what you are using in the build and then the performance also so keep me updated on It because it sound real interesting.
I had asked Gunfun1 whether he had ever considered trying an M-rod breech on one of his 1377 plinkers when he was talking about extending the barrels with shoulder stocks. I don’t know how difficult it would be or if anything would line up but that seems to be the way to go for achieving a repeater status.
I dont remember you asking me that.
It would probably be easier to adapt a Prod breech to the 2240 because its the same size main tube.
But hole lacations and transfer port may be located different. I havent looked to know for sure. I do know that it bolts to the tube different.
You’re right, I shoulda said P-rod but you don’t remember that? It was at the end of one of those long discussions You Me an RifleDNA were having back before he stopped posting regularly.
I do remember me and you and RDNA talking about the guns back then but not exactly we were talking about.
The old brain is getting forgetful sometimes.
But you know whats funny.I got the single shot trays for my Mrods that Crosman made. I myself prefere them because I think a gun is more accurate that way. And sometimes on pcp guns your usable shots per fill end in the middle of a magazine. So that makes me not use that one more magazine. And Im lazey. I dont like loading magazines.
I have not checked into that but would think anything is possible if you really want to go through the effort to make the changes for it to fit. Its just what I am doing by modifying the 853 barrel to fit the crosman breech to use on my 177 hi-pac.
I think that is what Diaboloslinger is doing when he rep[lied back to me about my test shot strings on my 22 hi-pac. He stated something about modifying a 2240 into a repeater with a Mrod or Prod breech so you may ask him about it. I left him a post asking for more info but have not gotten a reply so maybe he will lets us know something here in awhile.
Check out bnmcustom.com, guys. If you want to fabricate your own parts…excellent! However, these guys have and excellent kit that I have purchased and started trying out. I can elaborate more tomorrow if I’m not too slammed at work…
Im going to check that out when I get home from work tonight.
You just might convince to give one a try.
And have you heard of anybody that has a .25 cal barrel that will fit the Crosman steel breech..
I checked out BNM customs and he make some cool stuff indeed. The prices are a bit high but then again it is specialty parts also. Maybe some day when I have more money to spend I will look into the breeches.
I checked out the website and I’m interested in that breech with the .25 cal. barrel that has the Mrod shroud and magazine. I glanced over it kind of quick. But it looks Mrod to me. And I can say that I like it. It looks to be a bolt on kit so that’s kind of cool. A little pricey but that also happens when you get custom products. And did I say I like it. But yes I did. 🙂
And at the bottom of the home page it says designed by Rick Eutsler But here’s the link. I couldn’t click on the one you provided.
Definitely pricey! I had to save up for a few months to order my kit. The breech is a proprietary custom part, as are the shrouds and baffles, but fortunately it does use Mrod magazines. I ordered the 21″ shroud thinking it would ship with an 18″ barrel…nope! My kit came with a 21″ shroud made to work with a stock 7.5″ barrel (kinda funny). I ordered an 18″ yesterday, so when it arrives I’ll put all my other goodies on (ported valve stiffer spring power adjuster, etc). I’ve fired it all stock with 2k psi, and it sounds like there’s no air pressure at all because of the ridiculous amount of baffling. However the repeater action is silky smooth. The probe deep seats the pellets too. When the barrel comes in and I get to work on it I’ll chrony it and report back. Shoot! I’m gonna be late for work…
Gentlemen – I am lucky in that I have had two of the BNM 25 cal guns for over a year now with one CO2 and the other HIPAC with 2250 body + 2 extenders. Sergio is a whiz machinist and the receiver is not an Mrod, does use the magazine, the shroud is not an Mrod or the baffles. Just got my CHRONY, no numbers yet. For the triggers both use the Prod grip assembly and the Prod hammer+striker. great trigger and the Grip assembly is $37 at Crosman hammer 8-9. All I know so far is a Coyote looks different with a hole on both sides and almost end to end. Oh the CO2 gun has a 14in barrel and the HIPAC an 18in both very quiet. I believe his stuff is quality.
Thanks for the info. I’m save the money up right now to get a .25 cal. version.
And from what I see in the pictures on the website it does look like quality work.
I recently purchased a entire 2040 pistol from BNM.
I got it with a 16″ shroud, the barrel is the stock 7.5″.
I would like to put a 14″ stock barrel in it. It looks like
they use some type of maybe plastic barrel extension
to make up the difference between baffles and short
Has any one modified their barrel and seen this extension
I’m referring to.? I have not messed with trying to pull it out.
I’m thinking I should be able to ditch it completely with a 14″
barrel. But depending on how the baffling is in there may have
to add or remove a baffle.
I have to say the pistol Is a joy to shoot and extremely accurate
for plinking out to 35 yards. So accurate I don’t now why I’m
even considering replacing the barrel.
I’ve been trying to avoid HPA like the plague but looking at the
reports and doing the math am ready for the power max setup
on my existing pistols and a new Mrod are Brocock just to make
sure I get my moneys worth after investing in tanks and connectors
The 2040 pistol compete with BNM breech and shroud is only $200
plus shipping. If you consider the pistol is worth $60 the cost then
your only paying $ 140 for both the breech, shroud, and one Mrod
10 shot magazine.
I don’t know if this will post in the right spot. But to your response this morning about the custom breech’s and shroud.
I do really like the idea of the shroud and I want one of the 2240 conversions in .25 cal. And I like the idea of the deep seating probe. And since it does take the Mrod magazine I could use my single shot tray I already have for my.25 Mrod. So I think you know where I’m going. I will be saving some money for one of their kits in .25 cal.
And I was planning on running the .25 cal. 2240 that I was going to build at 3000 psi. So I think this breech and shrouded barrel kit will do the trick for me. Now I got to work some more overtime. Or sell something. The problem now is I’m running out of things I want to sell. I want to keep everything I got now. 🙂
Oh and Ds.
I wonder if you can specify in the kit that you want a longer barrel for the shrouded breech version in .25 cal. I guess I’m going to have to contact them and see what they say is available.
But if you got any info. Let me know.
Those guys have a great product, but are not big on communication. I misinterpreted their website, so that’s why I received a stock barrel with my 21″ shroud. I’d call them, because I tried email correspondence, and while they returned all of my emails in a timely fashion, I got 1-3 word answers to my questions.
LOL…I have the same problem. That .25 should turn out to be a one-of-a-kind beauty!
I will call them when it comes time to order then.
But it looks to be a nice product though. Pretty sure this will be the kit I get unless something else shows up. Thanks for posting about the website.
I just found the right kit! Unfortunately it’s offered by a direct competitor of PA so I cannot supply a link but there is a repeater kit for the Crosman 160 offered by Archer airguns kinda mixed in with their QB78/79 repeater breech kits which use M-rod mags which is another plus because I believe I recall someone lamenting the fact they couldn’t use some longer pellets in their P-rod mags.Have fun with it guys and I’ll be joining ya’ll just as soon as I can afford to.
What link did you find?
I can’t post a link. Check Archer’s QB 78/79 repeater kits and down at the bottom is a kit for the Crosman 160.
I will check it out.
The repeating breech kit for the Crosman 160 I just mentioned earlier should also solve your .25 cal dilemma as well as adding multi shot capability.
I looked for that kit you talked about for the 160 and could not find it on their website. You said it is in with their QB78.79 stuff. I looked at all the pages and did not see it. Is it labeled for a 160 or is it labeled for something else and will fit a 160.
How is your QB-36 doing, did you get the stock finish done and the spacers figured out so you can be shooting it. You have not given me an update in the last few days. You still doing ok , you have not hurt those ribs again have you.
Let me know how its been going for you bro.
I put a nice layer of oil on it yesterday and tried a test fit. That’s when I noticed I had forgotten to stain it, so today is stripping day again.Too bad I can’t stain through the oil!Just love the way my brain works anymore!
It said my E-mail had been sent to you so check your inbox.
I checked my inbox and spam and got no email from you so I am sending you a message now that you can reply to with the link or more info about the 160 breech.
How are you going to get the oil out of the wood on the stock, won’t it soak in and be hard to get back out. If it doesn’t look bad I would just oil the heck out of it and leave it alone because the oil will protect the wood. Unless you polyurethane it the stain does not protect it just brings out the grain of the wood which the oil will also do it just does not change the color of the wood. Good luck with however you decide to finish it.
I am sending the email to you now.
Just a quick note to let you know I found the 160 breech kit from your post to gunfun about the search title. Thanks
I wonder if that black spring is suppose to go in the air valve for when you fill to 3000 psi. Its shorter didnt you say. Maybe its suppose to help hold the valve closed with the more preasure being used.
I don’t think it is for the valve spring as it is way long to fit in the valve and on the website it states that the kit comes with a stronger hammer spring for when you fill to 3k psi. I think the 3k pressure will help close the valve fast enough against the hammer spring, but I will find out when my adjusters get here. The black spring does seem to be to strong and I think I will have to try one from a 760 or 853 that I have or may go to Ace hardware and match one up from their selection like I have done for some of my other guns.
I got a assortment of springs a long time ago that has various diameters and lbs. and they where about 5 inches long so I could cut to whatever legnth I want for the striker springs. But thats what I use.
buldawg and DS
I looked at the spring that came with my hi-pac tonight when I got home. It seems awful heavy to be used for the striker. I think if somebody did get anywhere with it. It would break something or make it unpleasant to cock and even to shoot the gun. And put unwanted stress on the sear. That spring just don’t seem right for striker use to me.
I agree it looks awful strong to be for a hammer in the 2240 compared to the stock one. It would definitely be hard to cock and probably make the gun an air hog with very few shots per fill. I will probably try one of my other springs if it seem to hard to cock or use to much air. if I cannot get at least 20 shoots per fill it is not gone to work for me.
Getting ready to hit the sack now so I will Talk to you in the am.
Me too. I got to get up at 7:00 am with the kids to get them to the bus stop. And I’m off tomorrow and Friday. So going to get some shoot’n in for the next few days. Got to work Saturday though. But I’m off for 2 in a row right now. 🙂
That’s sounds good just take the phone off the hook so you don’t get called in . I am going to do some more shooting also and sight the scope on my 2240 22 cal back in for now until I get the adjusters.
I got to get with my buddy and get that barrel reworked to get my 177 together , I am really wanting to see what the 177 does compared to the 22 . I wonder if it will shoot a heavier pellets than the 10,5 CPs any better like the JSB 13 gr one or maybe even the super heavy ones or at 14. something grs.
Have a enjoyable day shooting and I will check back in with you later.
I will post at the bottom getting thin.
I found a product code “160repeaterupgrade” that should make it easier to find, they say it comes with everything necessary to upgrade a 160 to a repeater except the scope,which is necessary because it’s mounted so low it covers the sights.They’ll even match a barrel with the kit if you want! It’s too bad you can’t get it through PA.I guess you could even put it on a Disco.
The more things that people keep finding for these guns the more excited I get.
You know what I would like to see more about. Some custom grips for the guns. Wood, synthetic, rubber coated. I dont care what its made out of. I want some grip choices.
Most of the grips I’ve seen for these are either stock or high end.The really nice thing about pistols are the little pieces of wood it takes to transform them into whatever you can imagine. I’ve got a stack of hardwood flooring that wouldn’t miss a plank or 2 but you can use any wood you can find. A nice set of rubber grips would be perfect for mine(when it finally happens).I was just bombarded by snakeskin to any other graphic you could want on Ebay but there’s a company named gmaccustoms that sells a lot of different type wood target grips. No luck with the rubber, but I’m hopeful.
It sure doesnt take much material to make grips for pistols.
I think if somebody came up with a composite grip with some raised rubber conforming to the touch type grips. Kind of like the Dr. Sholl’s shoe inserts I think they could have a money maker.
I know it was purely coincidental, but those links you published yesterday to “Shooting The Breeze”, I purchased my first air rifle at that 2009 Roanoke show. It was a Gamo CFX. I had been researching for some time about what I should start with and it was BBs recommendation that finally decided me.
BB had two Turkish copies of the CFX at that show and I was tempted, but the quality just did not seem up to the same level, so I went with a Gamo.
Shouldn’t the outlet end of the HiPAC seal against the face seal on the end of the valve? Maybe the stock face seal is not able to take 2250 psi for long. Looks like good results in accuracy. I hope there is another report on this in a couple weeks.
B.B. changed the face seal already, but I haven’t on mine and have never had any problems. Although, I’ve never filled beyond 2100 psi.
I’m not using the factory face seal. This gun has the black seal that came with the HiPAC kit. That was addressed in Part 1 of this current report.
I will come back to this gun and finish the 25-yard test.
That thing looks sweet with that stock! The hipac unit is two piece with a black rubber o-ring that seals the joint. On my two guns with this kit I have 3 extensions each, with these seals between all of the extensions. On both of my guns I’ve had these seals expand right out of the channel that they are supposed to seat in. I fixed this issue on both guns by dousing the seals in chamber oil, hand tightening the halves (or extensions) together as hard as I can, then grabbing a regular set of pliers (with a rag to protect the finish) and tightening an additional 1/16 turn. Now both guns hold their air indefinitely.
Thank you for that report. The HiPAC tank is only hand-tight right now. I will look at tightening it just a bit more today. Maybe the black face seal needs some extra tension?
Also, I found that its more effective if you depressurize the gun first. This preloads the threads a bit more, so they’ll achieve a higher peak tension when filled. Good luck!
Thanks, I’ll do that.
I haven’t taken the factory red seal out of my gun for the fact of I’m not going to fill over 2000 psi.
But I guess that red factory seal is alot softer then the new black seal.
I used this on the end of the hi-pac where you would put a few drops on the nose of the Co2 cartridge.
Then I put some drops around the threads where the hi-pac screws into the tube where the cap would normally screw in at.
And when I put the extension together I put some drops on that o-ring and them threads also. I was careful screwing the two together because the o-ring did act like it didn’t want to go in and seat. And all I did was hand tighten my hi-pac to together and in to the tube on the gun then filled. Zero leaks for me.
But there is one thing that I noticed that may not be good that you did. I try to avoid having the barrel band tightened up over the threads were the normal cap would screw in to hold the Co2 cartridge in. I moved mine foward close to the end of the hi-pac by the Foster fill fitting. That way the set screw can’t tighten up on the threads where it screws into the 2240 tube. I know that’s not a sealing thread there but still could possibly push on the threads and cock something a bit and not allow the hi-pac to seat square to the black face seal. It looks like you may be back far enough though to not be on the threads. But maybe try sliding it forward. And also that way more of the barrel is supported and not floating if you will.
And you probably asking yourself what I used. I forgot to paste the link of the oil.
I had to check the product description to find they had to drop the decimal point in the URL…
A 50 ounce bottle of oil would have been huge (over 1.5 US quarts)… Half ounce, OTOH…
Was it listed correct when you opened the link?
Oh, yes… It was just that they apparently couldn’t put the decimal in the URL that made it look so surprising.
I didn’t even notice the period wasn’t there. Ain’t it amazing what one little dot can do. 🙂
Thanks. I’ll look at that.
Gunfun and BB
When I installed my barrel bands, yes I mean two. I have the one for a 2250 that will hold my forearm in place at the front on right at the joint between the hi-pac cylinder and the 2240 tube so it hides the gap that is left because the hi-pac does not thread all the way into the 2240 tube, but it does not have the set screw on the bottom of the band to secure it to the tube until I put the forearm on then the screw will also tighten against the 2240 tube. Then I put the stock 2240 barrel band on about 2 inches back from the front on the hi-pac cylinder so there are two barrel bands on my gun and it will also be that way on my 177 I am building.
I have only filled to 2K right now but when I get my power adjusters I will be going to 3k fill pressures so I will see if any leaks develop then, but right now I have not had any issues.
BB and buldawg
I actually have two bands on mine also.
I have the one out on the end by the fill fitting (which should also help the hi-pac not come un screwed or loosen up). Then I have another one that is about a 1/8” away from the reciever. I think that locks the barrel up better.
And you can use the one by the fill fitting to tune your barrel by sliding it forward or backwards a bit. And you can rotate it left or right to keep your sight true to the bore. It helps to eliminate side to side point of impact changes at different distances when shooting.
We got to be related because we think and do to much the same , thats why I use the band out at the end of the barrel and hi-pac cylinder to help support it and be able to adjust foe tuning and line of sight for barrel.
I also have the same thing on my 60C with two bands on the barrel, and I have been thinking of trying to get a second one for the hatsan since there is a provision in the stock for it.
I tell you we should have grown up together because we would have had a blast.
The problem is if we would of grown up together I think we would of been a dangerous combination. 😉
Only to everyone else that got in our way. It would have been like my best buddy Skippy and me when we were together we could do no wrong ( in our eyes anyway ) and had fun at every turn on the land or water. We gave the Cocoa Beach cops something to do and have some fun while they were doing it, and never really got caught or in any real trouble just being normal rebellious teenagers.
I have to keep quiet right now. My teenage daughters read the blog sometimes if you know what I mean. 🙂
I’ll be on my best behavior, promise
Good times is all I can say. 😉
Ditto to that
It should say one of the barrel bands is located a 1/8” from the breech not the reciever.
One of your many clever airgun lessons I use on a regular basis is sighting in a new scope or dot sight beginning at 10 feet. Just used this technique last Saturday afternoon on a friends gun that we had to change scope mounts on and then re-sight his scope. Saves so much time and wasted pellets.
Your first sentence in the second paragraph in the section titled “Sight-in at 12 feet” confuses this simple technique. You said, “What I’m looking for is the pellet landing in line (left and right) with the center of the bull, but as far below the center as the center of the sight is below the center of the bore.”
Think you meant to say, “What I’m looking for is the pellet landing in line (left and right) with the center of the bull, but as far below the center OF THE BULL as the center of the BORE is below the center of the SIGHT.”
If this wasn’t a tip that would benefit every airgunner I wouldn’t be such a nit.
Thanks! I fixed it. I checked my article and see that I said it correctly there.
You can always pick nits on the important stuff.
This is a technique that belongs in every shooters “Bag-O-Tricks”.
I like that little sighting trick too.
After BB talked about that before I started doing that in the garage the night before I was going to shoot a gun with a new scope or red dot installation.
I have been measuring the center of the barrel to the center of the sighting device and trying to produce that same distance on my target from my point of aim to my point of impact. It works out real nice when I take it outside the next day to finish dialing it in.
I don’t measure. If I get the pellet shooting proper for windage and the poi (point of impact) is roughly the eyeballed distance from the middle of my optics to the middle of my bore I move the target out to 25 yards and finish dialing it in.
Tough for me to calculate how much time and how many pellets this technique of B.B.’s has saved me over the years but it’s been LOTS!
Yep fore sure saves time and makes things easier also.
Your Blog comments (replies) came in my e-mail junk box with a note saying “Be careful! This sender has failed our fraud detection tests”.
I’ll send your comment to Pyramyd Air’s IT department. Hopefully, they can figure out how to change this. It could be related to the spams we’re getting on the blog. Most are caught by the spam filter. As a result, your email provider might be wary of all comments, even those that are legit.
Initially when the original seal was replaced with the new supposedly denser material that comes with the kit I recall wondering if it would still seal at the lower operating pressure of co2 just in case someone ever needed to go back for some reason such as HPA pump sent in for service. I hope just a tightening will do the job. I do however believe an inspection should be performed to be sure the seal is in it’s proper place and has not rolled unless it just feels loose.
Speaking of sighting in, I was wondering around on the Crosman site and saw the link to Centerpoint. There I found a laser bore sighter for .177 to .50 firearms, plus 12, 16 and 20 gauge http://centerpoint.crosman.com/accessories/CPLBS1745.
I’ve seen laser bore sighters before but not that would work on .177. Are these any good or is trial and error a more fool proof system?
My way isn’t trial and error. It is sighting in the way you always do, except it is very close and therefore faster and safer, because you don’t miss the backstop.
Lasers are for when you can’t do it my way.
Sorry to mislabel your method as ‘trial and error’.
Nice shooting. As far as the safety issue, I wonder if it’s possible to say if the parts that might fail under the new pressure would pose any danger. I have wondered in the past how gunsmiths test unknown rifles. Perhaps they pull the trigger from distance with a string. I’m reminded of my very first question on the blog years ago which was why do you sight in at such a short distance? Makes perfect sense now.
Yes, when a gunsmith tests an unknown rifle he uses a piece of string tied to the trigger and usually the rifle is tied to a tire or something.
Airguns are different in that they store pressure all the time, instead of just for a few milliseconds. So something can fail gradually and burst open suddenly.
With the HiPAC system the danger is there is no safety burst disk — just as most air rifle do not have one on their reservoirs. If the HiPAC blows it could be a bomb. On the plus side, the reservoir is small, so the damage will be equally small.
I’m liking this concept. In fact I have a beautifully modded 2240 coming in a few days that has the pcp adapter which I will be installing. I’m eager to see how it works.
Please let us know when you find out.
I left you a reply above that I was moving down here. To thin up there.
But yes no phone calls today or tomorrow.
And the heaviest grain pellet I have tryed in my .177 Disco barreled 2240 with the hi-pac has been the 10.5 premiers in the box. But I have been sticking with the JSB10.34’s in this particular gun. It seems to like them the best. And the gun is still getting that flat trajectory that the .177 cal. pellets usually produce. I don’t want to start getting that arched trajectory that heavier pellet could produce. And its shooting in the upper 700’s to low 800 fps which is fine for I’m using the gun for.
I’m mostly plinking with the gun and some target and steel spinner shooting with it. But I have taken a few pest birds with it. Starlings to be exact with body shots at 50 yards and drops them on the spot. Out cold at impact. Not even a twitch. So the 10.34 JSB’s are doing fine for me.
But let me know when you get your 2240 sighted in and some shots taken. And have a good shoot’n day too. Let me know later if you get it done.
I did not get to shoot today as I just ran out of energy for some reason. I have been staying up late this week working on my conversions and I guess it just caught up to me as I slept most of the day.
I did get the 2250 forearms today from crosman and will see about making the rear bracket to hold them on to the trigger front screw with since they are obsolete with crosman.
But I did some more research and found that the 2250B which is a CO2 powered version of the 2289 backpacker are still in production and I may be able to buy the bracket from crosman for it. The forearms I ordered are actually for the 2250B and not the SSP250 part # that I had given to crosman to order them. They said they crossed to # 151A002 instead of the 151-002 that the SSP250 parts diagram showed, so maybe the bracket that it lists for the 2250B # 2250-018 is still available for purchase from them> I will call them tomorrow to see.
If anyone reading this by chance has two of the brackets that hold the forearm for the SSP250 or 2250B on to the trigger front screw mounting point and would be willing to sell or trade them please contact me here to work out a deal for the parts. Thanks to all in advance.
Im on my phone right now so I can’t see the diagrahms on the Crosman website good enough.But I’m pretty sure the stuff from a Prod or 1720T should work.Take a look and see. I will check later also when I get in. I will let you know later what I find out. And if you come up with something let me know.
Thanks , those are the exact same part as the 2250B and SSP250 use and will work. I would think that crosman should have a cross reference for this type of issue, they gave me the new number for the forearm so why did they not show where the bracket that was discontinued for the SSP250 was updated to the 2250-018 or the Prod/1720T number 2220-007 both of which would fit as a replacement for the SSP250 bracket.
They would do much more business if they were more willing to help customers with issues like this because I am disappointed in them for not helping me the first time to get all the parts. Now they will get another 4 buck for shipping out of me. It is not a buyers market anymore you know what I mean.
No other way to say it but Crosman is bad about that. They could sell alot more stuff if they would put a list together and categorize different parts or something.
But going back to the old days GM ran things the same way. If you learned how to cross reference parts you could build any GM motor that existed. And if you were smart enough you could build the ones they said didn’t exist.
But that’s how the smart hot rodders won in the day. 😉
yea I used to know all the parts that could be used back and forth from one to another when working for gm, heck most of the time I would go to the parts counter and give the parts guy the number for the parts I needed for most any job. nut as we get older and start to forget all that stuff.
I’ll bet crosman is like a small block chevy in that there are so many parts that will work for so many different models you would have to work on them for years to remember to all the parts swaps available.
I will call tomorrow and see what the difference in the price of the crosman versus benji part s are and get 2 ordered instead of trying to make them, it may cost a little more but save a lot of trial and error in the fitment end of it.
I just think you made the statement of the century.
That is exactly what I see Crosman guns as. quote as you said.
”I’ll bet crosman is like a small block chevy in that there are so many parts that will work for so many different models you would have to work on them for years to remember to all the parts swaps available.”
And that’s exactly why I like Crosman guns.
Yeah I like crosman to but I am just a little peeved with them right now because if they would only be willing to help with part numbers a little more I would have my brackets in hand now instead of having to just order them today.
Remember when you said that the single shot trays for the Mrods are no longer available, well I found where you can still get them in all three calibers.
Go to archer air guns and hit the air gun parts drop down and go to marauder guns and in that drop down illustrations they have all three caliber single shot tray available for 15 bucks a piece.
Just thought you would like to know and if you get a chance see if one of your 22 trays or even the 177 tray could be machined easy enough to fit in the hatsan. If it looks feasible let me know and I may by one from archer to machine to fit my hatsan, just a thought and since you have both guns I thought you could check them and see if the mrod tray could be made to fit in the hatsan breech without to much modifying.
let me know if you get a chance.
I’m glad you found those single shot trays and for cheap. I’m going to order a few for just in case purposes.
And no I don’t think the Crosman tray will be a good starting point for the Hatsan single shot tray we have been talking about.
First the barrel location to the center of the clip is off set at a funny location. The Hatsan clip looks to me like it sets in lower and more off center then the Mrod magazines do. Plus a clearance notch will have to be milled out to clear the mechanism for the rotary clip advance which ain’t that big of a deal. That’s probably the easiest thing to do. But one of the other problems I see is since the clip or tray would have to be set in deeper and its narrower. The single shot tray would have to extend about a 1/8” or so out to the right so the pellet could be placed easily. That way it could kind of roll into position of the bolt. In other words it would have to be raised and angled down a bit towards the bolt. Like a little ramp the pellet would be set on then roll into position.
Yes I have looked at it and been thinking about what to do. But I will say this. That is a very good design that Hatsan has on the clips. It is way easy to load it up with pellets and you can leave them loaded and ready. The Crosman and FX magazine is way more a pain to load than the Hatsan clip. Plus I don’t like leaving them loaded up with pellets for the fact of stressing the spring in the Magazine.
Right now I’m trying to think of a way that the clip for the Hatsan can be used for the metal mags and such. I was thinking about putting a thinner o-ring on the clip. That way the pellets would possibly be able to be pushed back towards the way they are loaded. That way yuo could gently push the clip in and the thinner o-ring would allow the pellet to flex backwards. If you look at the side where you load the pellets it is radiused or cupped if you will. So Ithink the pellets can be moved back that way. And I know the probe pulls back far enough because it has to so you can insert the clip.
Look at it and see what you think. But I bet if you change the locating o-ring on the clip to a thinner one that those metal mags just might work. It will be a lot easier than making a tray and it will still be a repeater that way. I got different o-rings I could try but no metal mags. So let me know if you try. If it works I will be getting some metal mags to try in mine. I want to know if they are a accurate pellet in the Hatsan.
I will check out the fit of trying to move the metal mags back in the magazine some, but I don’t think they will stay in place that well and that is why I was asking about the Mrod trays. It seems that like you say there is to much difference in the barrel location to modify the Mrod mag to work. I will check the metalmags and get back to you, I almost think that they are to long to even fit in the space for the mag without being able to tilt them some to get the point into the barrel before loading them in completely
I will find out. I was able to get the brackets ordered as I left you a post in the Discovering what works blog.
Talk to you later.
Let me know what you find out. Going out to shoot now. Talk to you later.
Dear B.B., How do I focus a Tasco RF4x15 scope? Currently it seems to be set for rimfire distances and I’m not getting a sight picture that’s in focus at your recommended distances of 12′ and 25′ (on my Crosman 2250).The rear eyepiece (the side you put your eye to) has a knurled ring that turns but this doesn’t seem to make a difference. Perhaps I haven’t twisted it enough, either clockwise or counter-clockwise? The front ring turns too but again, no difference. I’d really like to have a focused sight picture.
No scope I know of, except the Bug Busters, can focus as close as 21 feet. A Bug Buster will focus down to 9 feet.
But Tasco doesn’t make the Bug Buster — Leapers (UTG) does.
So my answer is, you can’t focus that scope that close. That would be a good place to use a dot sight.
The eyepiece ring is not for focusing the scope image. It is for making the reticle lines sharp. The scope will then be in focus for whatever range it was factory-set to — probably 35 or 100 yards.
Great series, and it prompted me to buy a 2240 from PA, and a 2400 KT from the Crosman Custom Shop. Not sure I will convert either at this point, but here’s a question: I used to own a 2250, until it “walked away” sometime in the last couple years. The 2240 sure seems a lot like my 2250 except perhaps for the brass bolt. What are the differences between the 2240 and 2250?