by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
This report covers:
- Barreled action
- Trigger out
- The trigger
- Remove the end cap
- Remove the piston
- Extra parts?
- Piston seal
- Inspect the parts
- Put everything back
- Tighten the pivot bolt
- Installing the trigger
- The test
Many readers wanted to look inside the HW55 SF, and today is the day! This is a Weihrauch spring rifle, and it comes apart like most of them. There are a few differences that I will mention as we go. Let’s get started!
The first step after checking to make sure the rifle is not cocked and loaded is to remove the stock. On this rifle that means loosening three screws — one on the underside of the forearm and the two triggerguard screws. The screws can remain in the stock and triggerguard for safekeeping, but the triggerguard is removed from the stock. I’ll have something more to say about this during assembly.
The sight comes off the action.
The next step is to remove the rear sight. That clears the dovetails for attaching the Air Venturi Rail Lock Spring Compressor. That has become a valuable tool for working on spring guns.
The next step is to remove the Rekord trigger. The HW55 has the special target Rekord that doesn’t have a safety, so when the trigger comes out there is no safety and spring to worry about. Just punch out the two pins left to right and the trigger is out.
Drift out the two pins that hold the trigger. I remove the front pin first and I go from the left side — opposite what this picture shows.
With the pins out the trigger can be lifted out of the action.
With the trigger out I can show you how this one differs from a standard Rekord. I’ll do it with pictures.
The front of the piston catch is ground and hand-filed at the factory (arrow) to refine the engagement with the piston rod. A sporting Rekord is rounded at this point, unless someone filed it afterwards.
The rear of the piston catch that’s held by the sear (arrow) is also hand-filed at the factory.
The trigger return spring (arrow) is much lighter than the spring on a sporting Rekord. Hand-fitting the trigger parts makes it possible for this light spring to work.
Remove the end cap
Let’s get back to the rifle. To remove the end cap we unscrew it from the spring tube. I have attached the spring compressor and unscrewed the end cap until the last three threads hold it in the tube. Then the rod on the compressor is run in to hold the end cap and I start slowly unscrewing the cap and the rod in the compressor. When the end cap is out of the spring tube the compressor rod is unscrewed until all tension is off the mainspring.
The mainspring has just relaxed. So, there is almost 3-inches of spring precompression (the spring outside the tube plus the length of the threads) when the rifle is together.
Now the end cap is removed, the compressor is taken off the spring tube and the mainspring and its guide come out of the tube. When they did I found a small amount of grease on the mainspring. It wasn’t moly and it wasn’t lithium. It was some sort of general purpose grease. That tells me whoever tuned this rifle last was probably knowledgeable and conservative. It might have been a dealer.
The mainspring is also straight, so it’s good to put back in the rifle. The guide fits close but somewhat loose. These parts are factory for sure. I cleaned all the grease off the mainspring and rolled it on a flat surface, looking for a wobble. No wobble. As I told you, it is straight.
The mainspring is straight. The medium-viscosity grease is on thin.
Remove the piston
To remove the piston the barrel must come off, so the cocking link can be removed from the piston. That’s done by removing the pivot bolt nut, followed by the pivot bolt.
The pivot nut and washer come off the right side of the gun. The washer is a circular wire that is a replacement from later than the 1968-69 manufacturing date. This rifle has been apart since it left the factory.
Now the pivot bolt is removed. The barrel can then be removed from the action forks. Once it’s free, the cocking link can be taken out of the piston.
The barrel is separated from the action forks.
Remove the piston by sliding it out the back of the spring tube.
When the piston came out I saw moly grease on the rear, where the piston body is swelled. There was no grease on the piston body forward of this. That tells me the tuner knew what he was doing.
Only the swelled rear of the piston is greased.
About this time I felt an “extra” part in my hand. Because I have experience with Weihrauchs, I knew it was a piece of the leaf spring that keeps tension on the articulated cocking link, so it doesn’t rattel. The other part of the leaf spring was still held by the forearm screw boss that was still in place. Was this a problem? Wait and see.
The forearm screw boss (left) and the broken leaf spring were removed.
I was somewhat surprised to see a synthetic piston seal in this gun. I would have thought it would be leather, but 20 years ago it was popular to replace the original leather seals with synthetic seals. At that time many people thought synthetic seals were better. I don’t, and I wish the original leather seal was still in the gun.
It is possible that this seal is original, though I have rebuilt two other HW55s that were a couple years newer than this one and they both had leather seals. The piston had to be changed for the synthetic seal to work, so if this was done is was a deliberate act.
At first glance the piston seal appeared to be ruined. It had a lot of black gunk caked on top and in the parachute groove. But I was able to clean most of the gunk off and what I found was a seal that’s still pliable and ready for more use. Because of that, I will press on and complete the cleaning and overhaul today. I may order a replacement leaf spring, but I will put the rifle back together and use it without the spring.
At first glance the piston seal looks ruined.
After cleaning the seal; is okay and still pliable.
Inspect the parts
At this point I inspected all the parts, including inside the spring tube. The cylinder is crosshatched well and surprisingly clean. All the parts were in good condition, except for that leaf spring, so the gun is good to go.
Put everything back
I lubed the piston seal with Air Venturi Moly Paste and slid it back into the gun.
The seal was lubed with a thin coat of moly grease.
I also lubed the swelled back end of the piston with moly. The body of the piston never touches the inside of the spring tube, but the swelled back end and the piston seal both do. That’s where the grease is needed.
The back of the piston is swelled to guide it inside the tube (if it bumps the inside of the tube). That got some moly.
The gun then went together the reverse of coming apart. I don’t like it when people say that, but it’s true. I will discuss the few things you need to watch for, but first, I lubed the mainspring with a good coat of Tune in a Tube grease.
Mainspring lubed with Tune in a Tube.
Tighten the pivot bolt
I lubed the pivot bolt with moly before inserting it. When you tighten the pivot bolt, remember to get it tight enough to hold the barrel in position after the gun is cocked.
Installing the trigger
When installing a Rekord trigger it helps to cock it first. Do that by pressing down on the back of the piston latch until the sear grabs it.
Press down on the back of the piston latch to cock the trigger before installation.
The gun went together smoothly. Just remember when you tighten the triggerguard screws that the rear (smaller) screw is going into a threaded piece of sheetmetal in the trigger body. Don’t tighten it too much! If you strip it a nut can be inserted to hold the screw, but it’s a chore.
After the rifle is together I pulled the trigger because it had been cocked to install. Then I cocked the rifle to load it. Cocking was smooth and this time there was no hesitation in the stroke. Remember that? There was a spike in the cocking effort toward the end of the barrel stroke.
Then I fired it with a pellet. Dead smooth! So smooth that I don’t think I will do anything else to this rifle except retest the velocity and accuracy for you.
It took me 90 minutes to do everything seen here, including taking a lot more pictures than you see. These older Weihrauch air rifles are so easy to work on!
63 thoughts on “Weihrauch’s HW55SF: Part 4”
So it turned out to be the leaf spring that placed tension on the cocking shoe? What did you use to clean the Piston and degrease the rest of the parts? Was a solvent necessary or just a lot of paper towels?
I just had a flash of insight! The broken leaf spring was the resistance during cocking!
All I used to clean the action was rags. It was that clean already.
At some point are you going to replace the leaf spring. Without it does the cocking shoe rattle when you shake the gun?
I just shook the gun uncocked and there’s no rattle. Then I cocked it and shook again. Still no rattle.
Well at least I’m not the only one who eliminates parts when I put something back together.
Glad it worked out.
This is an amazingly clear and well photographed instructional! You must have just had an upgrade to your photo equipment. You’ve definitely made my wish list a whole lot shorter for my next air rifle. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve referred to this blog for instructions, tips, bits of information and even cautions. I am sincerely a fan.
Larry in Algona
Thanks for your compliment. The camera is the same one I have used for the past 7 years. I had it on a tripod looking over my shoulder and when I got to something a needed to photograph, it was easy to just frame it and press the shutter button.
As LarryMo said great photos! Very helpful!
For the match Record trigger, does the piston latch rod also get filed by hand to engage with the trigger hook?
Also, what is that 4 footed item after the spring guide?
Yes to your first question.
That 4-footed “thing” is the base of the spring guide. They are formed on a big press and those “feet” are what sit against the end cap when it’s inside the gun. The circular thing in front of the feet is a washer to allow the mainspring to rotate as it decompresses.
Simply a super fantastic job of text and pictures. All very clear. 90 minutes is pretty darn good. An excellent testament in that things are not as hard as they can seem. I do suppose doing the actual report took a bit of time though. Super job.
Yes! The actual report took five and a half hours more. Most of it was working with the pictures. This report has the largest number of pictures I have ever done!
You guys can thank my report on how to sharpen straight razors for this. It opened my eyes and recharged my batteries.
Thanks for another look inside. I always enjoy a look at the engineering and craftsmanship involved to make a fine sproinger.
I apologize for this old, feeble mind of mine, but what grease would you have used around the piston seal if it had been leather?
Grease on a leather piston? I think lithium might be the best. It keeps leather supple the longest that I know of.
How much bigger is the back of the piston compared to the body? If this piston were to be buttoned, would that be turned down to the same diameter as the body? And finally what’s your opinion on the black gunk is it excess grease from prior assembly? Thanks and an excellent article btw!
The back of the piston is not that much larger. You can see it and feel the swell, but I would have to guess that is’s about 0.030″. If I buttoned the piston I would not turn this down, but I also would not put buttons there.
What “black gunk” are you referring to? I addressed the grease on the old tune, and there was no excess anywhere. This was a conservative tune.
The stuff on the piston seal. So the buttons would be back from the end where the diameter is smaller?.003 that’s not much much I can see why you wouldn’t want to slather the piston with grease it would probably slow down the piston significantly.
Gotcha! That is burned grease. When the piston goes forward each time it compresses air and the temperature raises up over one-thousand degrees for an instant. Cumulatively, that heat cooks the grease that’s in front of the piston — the “excess” that you mentioned.
Great article, again! You are like one of those old, treasured bottles of fine wine – you just keep getting better with age! I haven’t seen anyone mention of “Turkey hangover” yet so I assume no one overindulged It’s time now to go out and take advantage of all the Black Friday sales so I hope everyone enjoys the rest of this Holiday weekend!
As you did not mention it, there were no washers between the cylinder forks and the breech block?
I have an old HW50 made in 1965. I retrofitted an adapter and synthetic seal some years ago because I thought they were better too! Lol.
My HW50 has the Perfekt trigger do you by any chance know if a Record trigger would fit this vintage model? They are such lovely rifles. Every airgunner should have a Weihrauch to measure other airguns!
There were no washers between the base block and the action fork. I think that was intentional, but maybe not. Does your 50 have them?
I don’t think a Rekord trigger will work in your rifle. Mike Driskill will know for sure. But you have the older 50 that is coveted by many shooters.
My Hw50 did not have the washers. But then I bought it used. It locks up fine but when I break open the action I see a little play. The forks are drawn in a little more at the forward end. It shoots well after a Maccari spring and seals so I am a little reluctant to mess with that.
BB and Fellow airgunners
What an excellent guide for taking apart, and putting back together a Weihrauch spring piston airgun with the screw-in trigger block. The pictures were clear, and almost self explanatory, while the text made perfect sense of the rest of the blog, It appears you used the Air Venturi spring compressor that slides on your 11mm scope grooves. It looks like Air Venturi has built a better mouse trap judging from the amount of positive comments that appear on Pyramyd Air’s comment page for the spring compressor. It’s also about half the price I paid for the Sun Optics spring compressor, as well as being less then half the size, and weight.
It will be interesting when you reveal the chrono results now that your HW55 has newly lubed internals. Judging from previous group pictures, I can’t see the HW55 becoming much more accurate, even after the discovery of a broken piece of leaf spring. The fact that it now cocks smoothly, with no hesitation will just add to the experience of shooting one of the most accurate spring piston rifles ever made. I would think this HW55 should be a keeper for you, after owning so many over the years.
Yes, the Air Venturi compressor is wonderful — as long as you have a dovetail to clamp to. If you don’t, that Sun Optics compressor still works.
Just curious if anyone is going to taking advantage of the current “Black Friday” weekend sale and what you might be springing for. Given the recent blog with Val on advertising, I do not see much has changed. I do see 20% off on select items which I do not recall. Maybe that is new. At any rate,… just curious.
There’s better deals on similar sights right now. One of the better sales at another site was 16% of plus free shipping over $99. But it end at 3:00 pm.
And as it goes the sites have better sales later into the day and weekend usually. And then comes cyber Monday.
So if you are indeed looking to buy. Do you grab what you want or take a gamble and see if a better deal pops up.
Or do you wait and maybe loose out. Don’t you just love how that works. 😉
No,… I really (don’t) “love how that works”. 😉 Val did mention that if the price goes down in the next 30 days?, I think,. that they will honor that, but you have to ask. I am really not in the market for much at the moment. High end PCP’s hit my interest, but that is another whole can of worms and a whole lot of research. I think that the LGU and TX200 may have to go to justify that in my mind,…(read: “frugal” sense of mind).
Yep I did stock up on some pellets with the 16% sale. So good for another few days or so of shoot’n. 😉
Well as far as getting rid of something to get something else doesn’t bother me at all. That’s just how I operate. Matter of fact the Wing Shot is hot and heavy on my radar. So something may just go. Or I wait till income tax time and keep what I have.
You seem like a well oiled machine on swapping stuff. I may have to hit you up on some pointers if I get real serious on the topic. I think that I would have to be real serious on something though to make that move. But hey, everything has it’s price. It is getting to the point that there is so many darn choices. Not that that is a bad thing, it just makes the homework end of things a bit more time consuming,… if one is into that sort of thing. I am. A curse and a blessing at the same time.
Not as much as I use to. But one hint is if you buy something you got to buy what people want. And I keep that in mind even if think I’m going to keep it forever. Here’s another one. I buy like I’m going to be broke tomorrow. In other words if I do need to sell for some reason to get money for living. I buy what I can sell that could still bring a good price if it’s in good condition.
Air guns is probably one of the harder things to turn around. The muscle cars was the easiest. The radio controlled planes was next.
So there’s some food for thought.
Got to feed the brain ya know. 🙂
Happy Black Friday everyone and keep your pepper spray at home. It’s never worth it.
LarryMo, thanks for your info on the blousing bands and for your service! I didn’t quite follow the description of your basic training. I can see that undoing the first button of the utility shirt would have been more comfortable, but how were the blousing bands a privilege? I suppose that they look sharper and are a sign of progress which is very important in basic training. It must have been like the scene in An Officer and a Gentleman where the recruits in gray sweats are bent over and gasping after their first run through the obstacle course. Then a more advanced unit wearing dazzling gold and black track suits jogs by in formation. Lou Gossett Jr. tells his unit they don’t even deserve to look at the more senior unit. It sounds like the blousing bands can stand up to a lot, but I doubt they would stop leeches which could probably get past a tourniquet. I once spoke to a veteran and novelist about the Vietnam War named Larry Heinemann. He described some horrific experiences serving aboard an armored personnel carrier, but he said the plight of what he called the “straight-leg grunts” was far worse.
ChrisUSA, thank you for your kind words. I’m going for the Mr. Spock award. In the original series, the Great Khan traps the Enterprise crew in their own ship, and Spock says, “Brilliant, he has anticipated every possible contingency.” Ha ha. Actually, I have enough respect for chaos theory to wonder at the rationale for trying anything at all. I think the key is to take reasonable risks. The problem with Jurassic Park was not in cloning dinosaurs but in cloning a whole bunch of them and then putting them into a zoo. You had compounded unknowns which are grist to the mill of chaos theory. When one of the maintenance men in Jurassic Park says, “You ought to see the Tyrannosaurus Rex roar and wave those little arms,” you know these people are way out of their depth. And in seeking the familiar to build on, it’s not a case of just looks but of the systemic principles at work. Guns are a familiar way of putting down animals that are highly effective; they just about brought the bison to extinction. However, pigs are not a big target on an open prairie, and from what I’ve read, they represent a demographic problem. So in place of guns, there is a systemic elegance to fighting demographics with other demographics in the form of the tiger population. I can see a critical flaw in my plan in that each enclosure would only sustain one tiger (they are solitary animals), and we need the tigers to reproduce. But it turns out that certain cat conservation centers have developed spaces for their big cats to take vacations from their cages. Instead of these spaces, the tigers could be rotated into the movable pig traps in a way like magazine feeding…
My own holiday consists mostly of exulting in my reenactment uniforms, and reading about their history which is surprising. It turns out that the iconic Marine uniforms which appear in the flag-raising photo on Iwo Jima were actually fatigue uniforms that were designed to replace denim. The Marine forage cap with its strict lines that embody discipline was modeled after a train conductor’s hat! (The famous German cap was modeled on a ski cap.) Well, it does the job, and the fatigue uniforms really are amazingly comfortable, sturdy, and breathable. As for the paratrooper uniform, it turns out that the original outfit was too fragile for combat. In particular, the seat was only sewn with single stitching. The large cargo pockets were also too fragile for their loads, and, it was common on landing for the heavy pockets to pull the backside open and tear apart, spilling their contents all over the place, which was inconvenient and embarrassing to say the least. The solution before D-Day was to sew on leg ties to secure the cargo pockets and canvas patches to reinforce the vulnerable parts of the uniform. This was all done by hungover teenagers in supply units, who, according to clothing experts, made a hash of it with very sloppy work although it held together. Anyway, history has molded it into a piratical look that is functional enough.
Wow,… you are way ahead of me. I do appreciate that we can converse though. Of all of your comments,.. the pepper spray comment has my curiosity raised the most.
Is this from some sort of personal experience? it does make sense that after camping out in a tent and braving sub-freezing temperatures for some sale,.. that a person could likely be on the unreasonable and on the desperate side of humanity. It only makes sense that once the doors open that you obliterate your “opponents” with a serious hosing down of noxious pepper spray,.. thereby giving you the all important 3 second head start.
While I have no personal experience with this scenario,.. I would think that you would need that hard earned 3 seconds to hastily check out and get the heck out of the store before your “defeated” opponents have caught up with you.
Just sayin’,…. Chris 🙂
Then Black Friday shop’n stores can be dangerous stuff.
That’s why I stick to my known internet websites. You know. Pyramyd Air. But I suppose internet shopping could be dangerous in other ways. Like I said. Known websites.
Oddly,.. I was at Walmart and Aldi today and both stores were less busy than normal. That is/was good as I have no tolerance for obnoxious crowds. I think that most went to bigger towns within a 30-45 minute drive.
At any rate, as humorous as what my imaginary scenario may sound,.. I am sure that there has been far worse implemented by some sale crazed nut case.
With you on the crowd stuff.
Just ordered these 2 items,
I will play with both on the Maximus. I have wanted a air stripper for awhile. The reviews are good, but you know how that goes. It can’t hurt and will up the “cool” factor for sure. 🙂 I have asked B.B. his opinion in the past on them and he felt that they did little to, nothing for accuracy. I will get to find out for myself. It will add another 3″ to an already long gun.
The other piece is a moderator insert. It screws on too. I will play with this as a base to build from. The one I did make went very well, but did nothing to quiet the report.
You will have to let me know how they work out.
Something to remember. You have to watch for pellet clipping with them.
Just a little touch of the pellet it will throw accuracy out the door.
You can be sure I will keep you posted. I look forwards to playing with them both. I did the on-line check out just fine. I usually call in. Any discounts are pretty well negated by sales tax since P.A. and I are in the same state. Plus, the insert qualified for that 20%, but I could only use the 11% at check out. Plus I had $5.00 worth of points.
I wonder if I ordered from Amazon and got it from P.A., if I would be able to skip the sales tax? They usually list an option of several vendors to buy from, I think. Could I use discount codes? Could I use points?
All in all, things went well. It would have been easier if the discounts (both,1 to each), automatically applied as well as the points. But hey, I have done said my piece on all of that.
Yep about the tax. There is a r/c website in Illinois. I don’t order from them just because of paying tax. There is other r/c website’s out of state that I order my airplane stuff from.
And that is what I like about Pyramyd Air being in another state. But still close to me. Dont have to pay taxes. Although my orders haven’t been shipping out of Ohio lately. So a little bummed about that. Just takes about a day longer to get.
And I have been using the smart post shipping lately too. So that could be a difference in shipping location and how long it takes to get to me. But that smart post shipping is the cheapest. Well of course besides free shipping if it ever happens. That’s usually always if it’s over a $150. And I don’t like that either. Would be happy with the 11% and free shipping on any purchase cost. I would more than likely make more orders if it was like that always.
Heck that’s what I looked for when I just got that new HPA compressor. I found the lowest cost one in the United States. In a different state than where I live plus free shipping. That’s what I look for when I buy.
GF1, (or others),
Have you ever tried air strippers and if so, what is your opinion of them?
Thanks for the on-line purchase info. too. That will be a factor on any future purchases that are sizeable in nature.
No personal experience I’m proud to say. I wouldn’t get up early to shop, much less camp out the previous night, much less pack weaponry. Battling it out on Black Friday makes no sense since people can be completely irrational about deals. Moreover, surveillance is everywhere in the internet age, and the police would catch up with you no matter how fast you are. I let my fingers do the walking and do all my shopping online. My Russian camo actually came all the way from Russia!
I am with you on all of that. Your comment (did) intrigue me and I was just having a bit of fun with it. Your commitment to being authentic in your pursuits is utterly amazing. I mean really,.. no words.
From what I seen and heard from other people I know that tryed them they like them.
Strippers are for relieving pressure behind the pellet or bullet when it leaves the barrel. Not so much for silencing if that’s what your after.
I am playing with both. Separate. No, I do not expect the stripper to reduce noise. The whole concept, as you know, is to separate the pellet from the exhaust/air turbulence upon exiting the muzzle. It make sense in theory,.. but you know how all of that “theory” stuff can go. 😉
If anything the stripper will add some muzzle weight. That has to be good for something.
Thanks, the Russian camo was worth every penny and the service was fantastic. The Russians seem to have a gift for weaponry, at least the kind I like. Blog reader, Victor, who is a professional engineer, says that the Russians have a special genius for improvising with simple materials, and maybe that’s what attracts me. Powerful arguments have been introduced against the tiger concept. Namely that tigers naturally mark their territory with scent which would scare off the pigs and that pigs are too smart anyway to fall for a trap with tigers. All good points, and this is the kind of insightful criticism that airgun companies need to improve their products! The pig intelligence was always a problem. I heard one farmer say that they are smart enough to do anything on a farm except drive a truck. But smart as they are, I don’t concede their superiority to human intelligence. If they are that frightened of tiger cages, you can set up some dummy fencing around whatever you want to protect, smeared with tiger scent, and your problem is solved. The cage itself was always a weak point, so why not get rid of it and let the tiger run wild. You transfer control to the tracking collar. In addition to the GPS, you add on a GoPro camera monitored by a remote operator. If the operator sees the tiger attacking something he shouldn’t, he could trigger the release of a small canister of pepper spray to distract the tiger, then hit another button to inject a harmless tranquilizer. If it’s possible for remote operators to fly a drone 5000 miles away and shoot missiles, it should be easy to pilot a tiger. The pepper spray dispenser and tranquilizer are easy fixes that many airgunners could probably construct. The full vision would be to lure the pigs into some area with treats accompanied by a public service announcement for people to stay away. Then, insert the tiger with tracking collar and let him run wild. When he has cleared the area or if he poses a threat, you just remotely tranquilize him and extract. Talk about attracting high end clients. Shooting exotic game animals is so Ernest Hemingway. How much more exciting to pilot a tiger? Rather than just firing a bullet into the prey, they can now experience the hunt in primeval form through the GoPro while simultaneously providing a public service and contributing to the environment. They’ll pay any price you ask!
I see that you are still hard at solving the pig/tiger dilemma. Me?,.. not so much, unless one shows up in my front yard! While actual Tigers may never come into play at the same time as the pigs,… I do believe the feral pig problem is in fact out of control in some areas. I think that any ideas are worth consideration. I have not heard of declines,.. rather the opposite.
I am glad that you took my compliment as just that. That is how it was meant. Really, it is something to admire that you not only research a topic in depth,.. then,… go out and purchase authentic/historical items,.. then,… also try those items out in actuality and then further evaluate them. Talk about execution of a plan and follow through,… you do it in spades! 🙂
If I am ever out Cali. way and walk upon a range and see a gent in period Russian gear, I will for sure walk up and say “Hi Matt,… how ya’ doin’?”,… without hesitation. 😉
Well I just posted three times on the bottom of Thursdays blog on the Hatsan Bullmaster. The first was on my poor man’s scope level and the next two were on my latest work on the trigger on my Crosman 1322 with the Maximus barrel.
Guess I am still eating left over turkey.
Bummer for everyone.
I hate when that happens.
Can you try again here. And I had problems the other day. I did copy and paste when I seen it happen.
Or you could just post the link to it.
Very good ideas.
And looks like the Maximus barrel works on the pumper too.
Thanks for posting it. I just checked it out and it was posted there.
Was just getting ready to post it and seen you did already.
Being I made this mess I will try to follow along and reply where appropriate. I used many of your ideas on the trigger and have to say it is as good as my Marauder trigger maybe better. I have not been able to adjust all the creep out of my Marauder trigger yet. It seems to Increase the more I shoot it. I think The set screw for the second stage may need some Loctite or bugger the threads a little bit. Don’t like to bugger the threads so will try to get it adjusted and then use Loctite to keep it in place.
Sounds like you got the stage two adjustment out to far.
Adjust less stage one travel. Then you can adjust more stage two in. That should make it stay in place.
I like a long first stage also. But maybe you have to much if I’m looking at what your talking about right.
We are all still eating leftovers, and lovin it, nice shooting.
Thanks, Yep we had around 40 folks over for Thanksgiving so I have lots of leftovers and have been over eating since I started cooking early in the morning on Thanksgiving. Good thing the weather was nice so we had dinner on the back porch. Worked out good because we had horsedoovers on my shooting bench. I told Kate the shooting bench would also be good for a bar so she would let me build it on the porch.
Sounds like a good time, and a large gathering. Wise move, a shooting bench that doubles as a bar. Lovit. Or? is that a bar that doubles as a shooting bench? Just don’t get the two confused.
On the Maximus barrel, did that improve the accuracy a lot or just a little? And were you using a short barrel before?
I bought the pistol to put the Maximus barrel on. I shot it with the stock barrel for velocity and then added the Maximus barrel and shot it again the velocity with the Maximus barrel compared to the stock pistol barrel went up about 100 fps to just shy of 600 fps.
The Maximus barrels in my opinion, are the most accurate barrels Crosman has made in .22 caliber. I have been trying the Maximus barrels on other Crosman guns and my old Apache Fireball rifle with excellent results.
I would expect the stock 1322 barrel to be no better than 1″ at 25 yards on a very good day, even with the other mods I have done to this pistol.
Plus 100 for Crosman and the Maximus barrel.
Ok, I have a 2260 that is accurate, but not as tight as your 1322 is, been thinking about a Maximus barrel, guess it is time to stop thinking and start getting it done.
Try a Maximus barrel on it and give a update.
Definitely would like to hear if it’s better on your gun.
Haven’t heard no bad story’s about the Maximus barrel yet.