by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
This report covers:
- The test
- First group — single shot
- Stop and think
- The magazine
- Test two with the single shot tray
Today I report on the Umarex Gauntlet. I had the rifle out at the range last Friday, where the weather was perfect for a 50-yard airgun test. I have shot the Gauntlet twice before at 50 yards but the first time it was too windy and the second time I felt the UTG 3-12X32 Bug Buster scope wasn’t giving it the best chance possible. The thing is, the groups I am about to show you are pretty much what I got on both those other days, although these are a little tighter.
This time the Gauntlet had an 8-32X56 UTG scope that is obsolete but is similar to this one, except for the illuminated reticle.
The Gauntlet on the 50-yard range.Yes, those are two gun boxes under the sandbag and yes, they are for reports you will be reading soon. This was a GOOD day at the range!
The rifle was shot from a rest at 50 yards. And I told you this last time, but to remind you, I only shot ONE pellet in the Gauntlet in this test. In Parts 6 and 7 I established that the Crosman Premier Heavy pellet does best in the test rifle. Remember — I have had this rifle out at 50 yards twice before, so I’m not guessing. I’m simply abbreviating the report. I shot off a sandbag and the primary purpose of this test, other than establishing the accuracy of the test rifle, was to see if there is a noticeable difference when I shoot it single shot and from a magazine. So that is the test I was performing.
First group — single shot
The first group was fired single shot, using the tray that comes with the rifle. Ten shots went into 1.734-inches at 50 yards. Not too good. HOWEVER — and this is a huge however — I felt that at least two of the pellets had flipped around in the loading tray. I say that because of how hard they loaded into the breech with the bolt. Each was very hard to push in. The Gauntlet’s design with where the scope is makes it next to impossible to see the loading tray while you are shooting, so I didn’t visually check each pellet every time.
Ten pellets went into 1.734-inches at 50 yards. Two of the pellets loaded hard into the breech, which makes me think they loaded backwards. I think they are the two highest holes. The other 8 shots are in 1.177-inches.
Stop and think
When something like this happens I have to stop and think about what to do. I didn’t think this 10-shot group represented the Gauntlet’s accuracy potential that well firing single shot, so I resolved to come back and shoot a second group the same way. This time I would visually look at each pellet as it was loaded in to the breech, even if that meant getting up from my seat on every time. But first I wanted to try the magazine.
I loaded 10 Premier Heavys into the Gauntlet magazine and inserted it in place of the single shot tray. I was alert for feeding problems, since I had them in earlier tests, but this time everything fed well. And ten Premier Heavys from the magazine went into 1.97-inches at 50 yards. That is larger than the first group, but not by much.
Ten shots from the Gauntlet’s magazine landed in 1.97-inches at 50 yards.
Test two with the single shot tray
This time I resolved to look at each pellet as it was loaded into the breech. There were two times when the pellets rolled on their domed heads and tried to load backwards. I saw them as it was happening and was able to stop it. In the group you are about to see, every pellet was loaded nose-first.
This time ten pellets went into 1.563. That’s a little better than the first group, but it is significantly better than the group that was shot from the magazine. And that group concludes my test of the Umarex Gauntlet.
Ten Premier Heavys went into 1.563-inches at 50 yards when fired single shot. Six of them are in the large hole next to the pellet.
As I said, this was the third time I have shot the Gauntlet at 50 yards. I have used every pellet I tried at 25 yards and discovered that the Crosman Premier Heavy was the best, so that was the only pellet I shot for this test.
I have done a lot more than just test this rifle. I have adjusted the trigger, which required partial disassembly of the rifle to get the action out of the stock and I learned that I don’t want to do that again. Read Part 2 to see what I went through.
I have also tried the rifle with two different scopes. I was ready to blame the Bug Buster for larger groups until this test. My groups were better in this test, but this time I used the best pellet and I loaded it single-shot. I would say that I have now treated the Gauntlet very thoroughly.
The Umarex Gauntlet has many features never before seen at its price. It is a ground-breaking airgun. My results at 50 yards have not been that good, but from what I have read, others are doing very well with their rifles. I can recommend it to anyone getting into PCPs for the first time.
83 thoughts on “Umarex Gauntlet: Part 8”
Those groups were a little disappointing. I was expecting to see groups of 1″ or less at 50 yards. From your results, the Gauntlet does not appear to be as accurate as some of the other entry level PCPs.
I’m sure your probably done testing. But what I like to know is if the shroud is screwed on tight. Mine wasn’t as tight as I like on my Gauntlet. And I have seen that on the Marauder’s and 1720T’s I have had. And that has improved the accuracy on those gun’s depending on how loose the shroud was.
And if it is loose. Maybe you might do another test with it just to confirm.
I expected the shroud to be tight but it wasn’t. It turned in my hand!
As a result, I will do another 50-yard test. This time I will make certain that the shroud is tight!
Let’s hope for better results next time. But yep seen that too many times with shrouded guns.
GF1, Some people have reported better accuracy after inserting a washer to compress the spring more, which apparently increases the barrels stability.
I can see that working.
Just goes to show that long range accuracy is not to be taken for granted, even with a PCP.
My untuned HW77k SE springer groups under an inch at 50m (54.7 yds) with JSB Exacts, without the need for faffing about with diver’s bottles, stirrup pumps, hoses, fill adapters, etc. I’m pleased to see it can still hold its own against PCPs such as the Gauntlet.
To be “fair” your HW probably costs twice as much as this thing. This is pretty much a tricked out QB78. It is meant for those who are either new to airguns or stepping up from the sproinger they got at Wally World.
“It is meant for those who are either new to airguns or stepping up from the sproinger they got at Wally World.”
Or a exsperianced air gunner that knows when something works. 😉
My experience told me to stay away from it. I have seen this air rifle for years now. People have been building this one for years now. The only difference is the stock, which is in my most humble opinion b’ugly.
Of course this is my opinion and we all know how much that is worth.
All I can say is from exsperiance with mine.
And mine knows how to cook if ya know what I mean. 🙂
Fair enough. I guess the Gauntlet is a pretty good deal at $300.
What’s a “sproinger”, by the way? Do you mean a springer?
Look at the cartoon in the blowup views of this air rifle and you will know where that word comes from.
Now I understand. Those nitro piston propaganda/infomercial cartoons are funny in a naff kind of way. I wonder if any springer manufacturer has countered them with similar cartoons (“Billy, are you tired of your nitro piston air rifle killing your scopes, leaking gradually and losing power over time? Well then get yourself a springer today!)
That’s pretty good! Several years ago I had PA convert my Gamo CFX to a gas piston. What a disaster it was. Fortunately they were very nice and put the spring back in it for me at no charge.
I am not sold on the gas piston, mostly because they are too powerful. I was really hoping the Vortek adjustable gas piston for the HW95 that BB was testing was going to work out well. I do hope they can perfect it. To be able to adjust the power level to a more reasonable level would be a boon. Yes, like the Theoben there will be those who overfill it and ruin it, but to be able to tune it to a level where accuracy was achieved would be the cat’s meow.
I guess until then I will just have to adjust the sproings.
Same here about the nitro piston guns.
And I do hope that the Vortek air piston gets worked out.
By the way, I like “faffing about”.
And me too. 🙂
Ditto; I’ve never heard that term before, but it sounds cool. =D
I’m faffed about that cartoon. I don’t get the humor. What’s so amusing about it?
The sound of the metal spring air rifle firing is “sproing”, hence sproinger.
RR, yes that is obvious. However, I didn’t get the point of the whole cartoon. But upon my second look at the cartoon, Ok, it’s taking shooter too long to find a worthy target so he shoots into the ground rather than keep his sproing compressed. In real life, it would be an unusually low quality spring that would not survive extended compression time – I would think.
Exactly. I seriously doubt a few hours would really be an issue. If it was, I think you would likely need to replace that sproing anyway.
And now you know the rest of the story.
I believe they threw that cartoon in just to remind you that with the Benjamin “Nitro Gas Piston” you no longer have to worry about spring fatigue developing over time. I think it’s a little short on humor myself. Thought provoking, perhaps. Funny? Not so much.
Yep, my first airgun was the original Benjamin Trail NP. Done hours of tuning with no luck obtaining acceptable accuracy but learned a ton.
How did you tune a nitro piston gun?
NOW, you are taxing my 75y/o brain. 🙂 Benj Trail NP .22 HW, modified shroud, semi-floated Summit wooden stock, home-tuned including deburring anything that had a burr, honing cylinder, new Crosman piston seal, JM piston buttons, crowning muzzle, trigger group shimmed/deburred/molyed, padded cocking lever, tried replacing barrel and nitropiston. Scope: CP3-9x40AO. Ammo so far: 3500 CPHPs, 500 CPUMs, 175 CP pointed hunting, 4500 RWS superdomes (this gun’s fav), 250 JSBExpress, 1000 JSBExacts, 250 H&N FTTs, for a total of over 10K shots so far. Best we’ll do is about 3/4″-1″ 10-shot groups at 15yards indoors not including the occasional uncalled flyer. 🙁 I claim it ain’t me because I’m accurate w/ my Falcon Prairie PCP. But then a pcp eliminates many of those breakbarrel variables. Oh and yes, tried artillery and firm grips up and down the forstock as well as just sitting on a pad. People swear by their favorite bore honing procedures? Yep, tried ’em. No help. Oh well.
Well you sure went to town on that Trail NP.
And how did you button a nitro piston anyway. Don’t you have to drill holes?
I have left nitro piston guns alone for reasons of buttoning and no spring to cut or shim.
You sure done alot though. Did the group’s get better though than they were?
JM (I forget his name) patches are thin red 3/8″ diameter patches that you fast-glue onto the tail end of the piston. The piston-to-cylinder fit is so loose that there’s plenty of room. I positioned three of them 120deg apart. No group size improvement but does eliminate the galling of the cylinder on the roof of the piston, not that I believe that galling is a big deal. And the fast glue doesn’t always hold forever. Bottom line is that I would not recomment the Trail family of airguns to a friend. There are those, of course, out there that claim squirrel-head or better accuracy at 25yds. So I am baffled by this gun. It may very well be something simple that I am simply blind to. For instance, I have tried a more expensive scope; no help. And you know, accuracy is totally dependent on a reliable scope.
I was wondering about something like that.
And I think those nitro piston guns just make the gun move to erratically. I don’t think they even cycle the same from the ones I had.
Thank you for the (extensive testing). Overall, I think not too bad. 50 yards might be pushing the average shooter’s normal range anyways. At least we know. Like you said, some guns may do better. A .22 may have done better with it’s higher retained energy. One reason I prefer .22 as I like to push the distance limits.
Without looking back at my 50 yard Maximus targets, I can say that one day I kept 34 pellets in 1″ @ 50 when I was checking shots per fill. I was having a very good day that day and will not say that I could do it again.
Nice test of the shot tray VS the magazine too. Always a controversial topic among readers at times. I think we all know though, to eliminate one more variable,… use a shot tray/single load. My .25 M-rod has done (very) well with mags., but to be fair,… I have not given the shot tray a serious go either.
Good Day to you and to all,….. Chris
Get you a .177 PCP and then see if you make the same statement about .177 verses .22 caliber.
You do seem to think .22 caliber is better then .177 in more ways than one from the comments you have made over time on the blog. And if I recall you never have owned a .177 pcp or spring gun for that fact. ???
Oh and Chris
Why does feild target shooters prefer .177 caliber? And why do they do well with .177 caliber? And yes .22 caliber is allowed in feild target if it falls within the fpe rule. I think .25 caliber is even allowed if the for rule is met.
There’s a few reason why they choose .177 caliber over the bigger caliber.
With my Gauntlet, all the other parts have settled in but the shroud. It needs to be checked once in a while to stay tight.
Well I was surprised by that, but it does warrant another test.
Probably not a bad idea to check shrouded guns every once in a while to see if it’s stating tight.
And to note the shroud has not came loose on my Gauntlet after I tightened it after I took it out of the box.
Remember than song I posted about checking your screws on air guns. Well don’t forget to check your shrouds too. 🙂
Suppose to say staying tight.
Not to see if it’s stating tight.
And no not my phone again. I hit the T instead of the Y on the key pad since they are right by each other.
Glad you are done with the Gauntlet.
Not done yet. GF1 showed me the shroud was loose when I tested it, so it will get one more test at 50 yards.
Maybe the Gauntlet will turn into a blog like you did on the Marauder rifles. Without looking. Didn’t the Marauder get up to like Part 12 or something.
I hope not. Giving it a fair shake is one thing, but this thing is too b’ugly for that.
So what if it’s ugly in your opinion.
Like I said above. My Gauntlet knows how to cook. Ta know how that goes when ya get a good cook’n lady. 🙂
GF1 and BB,
Before we get 11 parts on the Gauntlet I think the Urban should get a fairer shake. BB admitted that it didn’t get tested fully because of mistakenly thinking it had the large capacity of the Guantlet. ( Urban Part 5, Summary)
Agree with you. I would loved to have seen more parts on the Urban too. Seems as if lately B.B. is getting some lemons to review, or at least airguns not up to standard.
I just looked to see how many reports on the Marauder rifles and it looks like you did 11 reports.
Maybe you might get a .22 Gauntlet and a .25 Gauntlet when it comes available. I definitely would be interested in a report about a .25 Gauntlet. I think that would be good to link them all together with your .177 Gauntlet reports.
No I’m not going that far. But the additional test with a tight shroud is definitely warranted!
I definitely agree that another test is warranted.
And ok on reports on the other caliber Gauntlets. But will see. I’m betting you didn’t think you was going to do 11 reports on the Marauder rifles either. It won’t be a bad thing if you do. 😉
What kind of groups have you experienced with your Gauntlet, and which brand pellet?
I don’t think pellet brands necessarily correlate between .177 caliber and .22 caliber though.
I have always wondered if the .177 caliber had an advantage in obtaining accuracy and smaller groups than a .22 caliber. I think there are several reasons that some of us prefer the .22 caliber though. The pellets are larger and easier to handle and if pesting larger critters like woodchucks, opossums, or raccoon.
You shouldn’t of asked that question if you follow the blog.
I have posted several groups over time since I got my Gauntlet.
It repeatably gets under 3/4″ at 50 yards with JSB 10.35’s.
I do follow the blog daily, but the old memory isn’t what it used to be and I forgot what the groups were that you posted. That’s kind of what I remembered you posting…3/4″. That is excellent.
And now you bring up another thing.
Feild target is one thing and hunting is another.
Hunting you want a bigger diameter projectile down range and enough velocity to have retained energy. The bigger projectile has more mass so it gives you more room for error on your POI. But you sacrifice a flat shooting trajectory for holds compared to the smaller .177 caliber projectile.
That’s why people use .177 in feild target. It’s smaller diameter so it can get in a given spot easier. The target area of the feild target hole.
Plus the fps can be higher with a .177 call pellet verses the .22 call bet pellet. So that makes for a faster pellet with a given weight pellet for diameter.
In other words it’s easier to to have less hold overs or unders with a .177 pellet at a given velocity and weight or as we know fpe.
So basically a .177 caliber pellet can shoot with the same energy as a.22 caliber pellet. But the .22 caliber pellet will be slower. So what way is better?
So to compare both is just like comparing a pump gun to a PCP. You got to have a a given gun and combination of power, weight, and diameter to make each work for how you intend to use that gun.
Thanks for the explanation 🙂
Surely the weather has improved up there by now. I thought you were gonna give back some on the Urban by posting some long range results. If you have and I missed them, could you point me to where I might read them? I rely on you as about the only other Urban enthusiast that comments with regularity.
I am sorry…just have not had an opportunity to shoot out beyond 30 yards. It’s either the weather (too hot & humid) or it’s something needs fixing. Then there’s the grass that needs cutting. I do think about shooting out at 50 yards but so far it has been just the thought. The corn our back is getting high now too and I’m not sure I could set my target out to 50 yards.
The Urban has done a great job this spring with keeping the sparrows away from my bluebirds and the starlings away from my woodpecker’s feeder. I must have shot 20 or more starlings and I haven’t seen many since. So the Urban is getting the job done and is getting a little rest now. The temps here have been in the high 80s and 90s. I don’t tolerate the heat and humidity well…or, the mosquitos either. It’s been a very bad year for them too. Today we had a new AC unit installed. It always seems to be something gettin in the way of shooting. I promise to post my data though when I get some to post. 🙂
I understand on the heat. Here in KY we have been having indexes around 106 F to 109 F for 6 weeks. Set a 126 year old record here for the month of May and June and July haven’t been any better. Some nights the heat index has been in the mid 90s at midnight. You can have it !!
Wow, there is something wrong with that Gauntlet. I can’t speak to the .177, as mine is a .22. However, my Gauntlet will not load the harder Crosman pellets without causing some damage to the pellet. I only use the magazine so can’t address the single shot tray. Your gun with the loose shroud could very well be affecting the accuracy. The pellets may be clipping the baffle if the spring is not holding it firmly in the shroud. The diffuser may be cracked and the pellets may be hitting it. The Gauntlet had trouble with cracked diffusers. Have you checked the crown? Some users reported less than good crowns. There are just too many reports of the .177 and .22 shooting at 50 yards with much greater accuracy than you are getting. Even if you take the groups being reported with a grain of salt, the accuracy at 50 yards has been reported as much better than you are getting.
I seldom shoot any of my airguns on a paper target at 50 yards just because I prefer action type targets, so I have not shot my Gauntlet at a paper target at 50 yards. However, my .22 Gauntlet will hit empty 12 gauge shot shells at 50 yards all day long if I do my part. Except when I know I’ve pulled the shot or the wind gets me, I seldom miss a 12 gauge empty at 50 yards shooting from a bench.
Don’t give up yet on that gun. Or at least try another gun to rule out your gun’s accuracy problem.
I agree. I have read many good reports about the Gauntlet. I know mine is not representative. That’s why I agreed to test it one more time.
For us less than knowledgeable airguners whose arsenal is limited to an old Hakim, what the heck is a shroud and where is it located? Is it a part that has threads and needs to be tightened or is there a screw(s) that has become loose? Just wondering???
Bob in Texas
A shroud is a jacket around the barrel that completely encloses the barrel. It acts as a silencer. The first intentional shroud was invented by John McCaslin of AirForce Airguns in 2001 for the TalonSS. It is the frame of the gun and cannot get loose.
Burt ever since then manufacturers have been installing shrouds instead of silencers. These shrouds are loose and have to be attached to the gun somehow. The Gauntlet’s shroud seems to have threads that screw into the receiver of the gun. Other shrouds are held on by screws.
Yep pretty much like the Marauder rifles and Marauder pistol as well as the 1720T. They all do screw on to a threaded piece.
The Marauders and 1720T have a piece that is the same size as the barrels outside diameter and slips over the barrel and slides back to the breech. That threaded piece is then secured to the barrel by one set screw. Then the shroud is screwed on to that piece.
I haven’t took the shroud off of my Gauntlet but I’m thinking it’s the same setup as the Marauder’s.
All I know is the shroud will wiggle all over the place if it’s not tight. Therefore accuracy problems.
Sounds to me like a ituation calling for visible witness mark to ensure the shroud doesn’t back off.
I wonder if the shroud was just installed without a QC check for tightness or if the barrel torques the shroud loose as a result of the twist direction of the rifling? A set screw, castlenut or other locking method could fix that without too much modification.
I would not use a thread locker; not even PURPLE Locktight in this instance.
I like the witness mark that I can erase. This isn’t my rifle so I can’t do anything more permanent.
Simpler than that. Just tighten a shrouded on a gun when you get it. Then periodically check it like Participant/Gerald said.
They usually don’t not back off once you get them tight from my exsperiance anyway.
BB n’ shootski
I find the best temporary witness mark is just a light pencil line. You can rub it off with your finger when you’re done. If it needs to be really visible a couple pieces masking tape on the gun parts works.
Because of the square footage of the threads on those big tubes purple locktite will have way more grab than red locktite so you’re right, don’t use it or similar stuff. I have, in the past, on co2 gas tubes that tended to rattle loose used unscented hair spray. Works fine and if you have a strong grip or a strap wrench can be unloosened easily.
Cheers – Dave
Locktite would not be good in this case. A shroud does need to come off in certain instances.
There is o-rings and muzzle supports on the muzzle end of the barrel that need replaced at times.
Only hand tightening will usually keep a shroud tight.
By that I mean put the stock of the gun between your knees and hold it tight. I set in a chair and have the butt of the gun on the floor. Then I take both hands and grip the shroud tight and tighten by hand as hard as I can.
I haven’t had one come loose yet after I did that.
But a pencil mark or tape is what I would use if I felt like I wanted to mark it. Both easily removable if needed.
I see why mine comes loose once in a while. I have not put that much force into tightening the shroud. Stock in one hand and shroud in the other and snug it up. From your method it looks like my caution about using too much force is unfounded. Thanks
Haven’t had no problems yet doing it that way.
I have had probably 10 Marauder’s and Marauder pistols over time. And a couple 1720T’s and had none come loose after doing that.
I think you got to be like Hercules if you can tighten one by hand too tight. 🙂
Locktite 222, PURPLE, is the lowest strength that Henkle makes.
Here is a link that helps keep it all CLEAR on which threadlocker to use for what:
I would use the witness mark on most AGs .25 Cal. or under. However I have found that theaded BIG BORE air and powder burner barrels have a tendency to be torgued on every shot…by the rifling-bullet interaction LOOSE one twist direction and TIGHTER if reversed.
I guess it depends on if you just miss the can or target no worries but wounding an animal because of it is unacceptable to me.
How do you achieve accuracy on the big bores if you have to tighten them after each shot?
Torquing to a certain inch pounds? Surely not foot pounds.
And do you have that documented on how much you tighten? That would help others that have those gun’s if you find it works.
I haven’t found torque value, per se, is critical to accuracy of properly treaded barrels like those on my DAQs. I didn’t say and I don’t need to tighten them on every shot. The witness mark is sufficient on the DAQs to know tt the barrel is seated the same. If you tightened the barrel to the receiver routinely you would change POI every time…which is what the witness mark helps prevent. Since Dennis isn’t using CNC to the best of my knowledge I would be charry to advise other DAQ owners on barrel torque values for there guns. Just like fill pressure values are something each owner needs to learn for themselves using a chronograph.
Don’t have enough hair to warrant hairspray but I have some that I have used in my spud-gun – thanks for the tip!!
IF you ever wanted a Quackenbush BIG BORE… A NEW .451 cal. rifle just became available TODAY from Dennis for a very reasonable price.
That would be a gun that I would like to see heads up against a Texan. And better yet the quiet Texan SS that is.
Halfstep got to shoot the louder high power Texan over the holidays.
He mentioned the shot cycle of the Texan. I just wonder what your Quackenbush guns shoot like. Do they have the air gun push or do they have a abrubt shot cycle?
What calibers did you say you have. And are any a quiet shrouded version like the Texan SS?
And yes Dennis is a heck of a gun builder. But so is AirForce guns. That to me would be a nice shoot off of guns. That would tell some story’s there.
Head to head with the Texan is a Fugi apple against a Red Delicious apple kind of comparison.
Recoil is mostly dependent on bullet grain weight. Lighter weight bullets are more like an airgun’s recoil and heavier
bullets are more of a prompt push. I currently own and shoot; .25, .308, .458, and .575 cal. rifles and pistols made by Dennis. They are hot blued metal and walnut furniture. Dennis builds hunting rifles and pistols by methods grounded in the old school gunsmith style. How they have appreciated in value immediately on leaving his workshop speaks best to what they are; hand built masterpieces of hunting functionality. He builds no shrouded or moderated versions but he has offered muzzle end treaded barrels in the past. Currently he only offers a barrel coupling for the .308 ca. threadedl in 24 X1/2.
Way, way,way off topic here took in my old silver dollars to a coin shop I’m working near today. Had 3 of 5 Morgan’s graded as nu. He even dipped them and put them in the protectors for free. This is the nicest one.
I do not collect coins, but I did find some silver dollars one time. Long story, short,…
I bought VERY run down house next to my in-town lot.
Tore it down by hand.
Vinyl “carpet” on living room floor. Nailed down.
Tore it up.
Layers! of news papers under said “carpet” (interesting in and of themselves)
Under newspapers were 6 silver dollars.
That was (long) ago and I have long sold them. Ay any rate,… I thought that you might find that an interesting story. I do not recall the years or that any of them were in spectacular condition.
My story is not nearly as cool, I got them as birthday gifts from my grandma when I was a child, who got them from her father as birthday gifts. They have for sure spent most of there lives in a box of some sort. The coin guy said 30.00 for the one and twenty five each for two. The rest and the peace dollars were around 15. But sentiment is the true value here.
I collect Morgan’s, on and off, but never heard of a NU grade. Sure it’s not AU- About Uncirculated? Nice coin.
I have that year from the New Orleans ‘O’ Mint in BU- Brilliant Uncirculated. That year is not very rare. Regardless, it should be worth a bit more, especially if it’s an ‘O’ mint.
I realize that your not into its value as much as it being a family memento, but having it cleaned pretty much prevents it from being graded without it being earmarked as a ‘Cleaned’ coin and not sought after by serious collectors. It loses value. What did he dip it into? a cleaning solution or tarnish remover?
That’s why I posted it on here someone always has information no matter the topic. I think he said nu or nearly incirculated but I was kind of distracted looking at other coins. I’m not sure what they were dipped in I asked if it was Tarnex he said it wasn’t. Like anything else you don’t know what you don’t know but thanks for the information.
Some dealeras who don’t know coins are using oddball terms, like Near Uncirculated instead of Almost Uncirculated. It’s slang.
Your probably correct about the coin dealer. Can’t imagine one voluntarily cleaning a collectable coin without being asked by the owner and notifying him of the consequence. Perhaps if it was previously cleaned already and he was aware that it would never be sold again.
Unfortunately collectable coins have a tendency to hang around for generations and future owners may be at a loss. I have a fairly nice collection of pennies I collected as a kid however I brightly polished them with steel wool … We live and learn !
I just encountered a similar situation. I inherited a WWI German coin from a long ago forgotten relative with a few “Great, greats” in front of him who fought there and had a loop welded on it to make a medallion out of it.
Probably a perfectly reasonable thing to do at the time. Coin collecting in the US did not really take off till the 1930’s when the pre-punched cardboard holders came out in the post depression era and who knows when cleaning coins became taboo.
I found a couple civil war tokens, a silver dollar, an indian head penny , a buffalo nickel (that had been shot), some aluminum tokens, and some bells metal detecting one old site .
Interesting stuff from the right location.
That is one thing I always wanted to do along with panning for gold. I hear you can get real lucky at the beach but there is a lot of competition here in CA. Most historical sites are off limits as well as off roading trails. Might kill a bug or crush some grass and if the border patrol doesn’t hassle you for being in their surveillance area illegal drug traffickers may rob and kill you ! Afraid we let too many freedoms slip away here on the left coast.