by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
Walther’s LGV Olympia is one of the last recoiling spring piston target rifles.
This report covers:
- RWS R10 Match Pistol
- Sig Match Ballistic Alloy
- Qiang Yuan Training pellets
- H&N Finale Match Light
- Cocking effort
- Trigger pull
- Scope rail?
- Rear peep
Well, well. There is a lot of interest in this vintage target rifle. Some of you want to know if I plan to shoot it at 50 yards. I hadn’t planned to do that. I was planning on shooting it at 10 meters and seeing how accurate it might be when used for the thing it was created to do. But I do listen to you guys, so I’m open to exploring other things.
Today we look at the power of this air rifle. I know it was just rebuilt when I got it and I really don’t remember much about the performance, except to tell you that Walther spring target rifles in general were never as powerful as FWBs. An FWB 300S might shoot at 640 f.p.s. A Walther tops out at 575-600 f.p.s., as I recall.
RWS R10 Match Pistol
First to be tested were 10 RWS R10 Match Pistol pellets. They weigh 7 grains and should be the fastest pellets I test today. Ten of them averaged 600 f.p.s. The spread went from 592 to 606 f.p.s. — a difference of 14 f.p.s. This is about where the rifle should be, in my experience.
Sig Match Ballistic Alloy
Sig Match Ballistic Alloy pellets are made of tin and weigh 5.25-grains, so they will be quite a bit faster than lead pellets. In the LGV 10 of them averaged 686 f.p.s. The range went from 673 to 690 f.p.s., which is a difference of 17 f.p.s. In past tests we have seen this pellet at the top for accuracy, so it will be exciting to see what the LGV does with them.
Qiang Yuan Training pellets
Chinese Qiang Yuan Training pellets have also been something of a surprise. In some airguns they are the most accurate, overall. They weigh 8.12 grains, so I expected them to shoot slower. But they averaged 588 f.p.s., which is almost as fast as the 7-grain R10, so perhaps they fit the gun better. The spread went from 576 to 593 f.p.s., which is a difference of 17 f.p.s.
The more expensive Qiang Yuan Olympic pellets weigh exactly the same as the training pellets, so it will be interesting to see what they can do for accuracy.
H&N Finale Match Light
The final pellet I tested was the H&N Finale Match Light. At 7.87 grains it’s lighter than the Chinese training pellet, yet it turned in the lowest average velocity — a mere 550 f.p.s. The spread went from 544 to 556 f.p.s., so a difference of 12 f.p.s. This average is slow for an LGV, so I’m thinking this pellet may not be right for this rifle, but now I have to test it for accuracy to know if I’m right.
This rifle is a little faster than I expected. It should be able to shoot both rifle and pistol target pellets.
I thought I remembered that the rifle was buzzier than it is. It’s pretty calm. I’m glad because I didn’t want to take it apart, and now I don’t have to!
This LGV cocks with 17 lbs. of effort. It feels like less because the 2.5 lb. barrel sleeve helps pull the barrel down to cock. I’m usually seated when shooting and I rest the butt on my leg, so that barrel weight does help.
The two-stage trigger has a 6-ounce first stage. It’s followed by a glass-crisp 12-ounce second stage. The only thing it lacks is a positive trigger stop. It’s not as light as a modern target rifle trigger or even as light as an FWB 300S trigger, but it’s right there with the best of the rest.
Some of you wondered if a scope could be mounted to the LGV. Well, it would be possible but also marginal.
The LGV has an 11mm scope rail that has been applied to the outside of the spring tube. It’s probably silver-soldered or welded on — not cut into the tube. It’s 2.3-inches long and not really suitable for a scope of any size. It’s just for a peep sight, though a short and lightweight scope could be made to work. I think it has to be welded because hot bluing attacks silver solder, but still, this rail is pretty small.
The peep sight is attached to a short rail that’s attached to the outside of the spring tube, rather than being cut into it.
The picture of the peep sight caused some confusion last time. I was asked if there were additional adjustments for the sight. I had not examined it then, but I did for today and I can tell you that yes, there are some gross adjustments for the rear peep sight.
There are 4 screws on the front of the sight that allow you to reposition the sliding parts of the rear peep in both directions. Loosen two of the screws and the entire peep slides either horizontally or vertically, depending on which screws are involved. In the picture below you can see a little of the slots in which the body of the sight slides.
The peep sight slides in both directions just a little. Loosen two screws and slide the sight in the direction you need. Then lock it down and let the fine adjustments take over.
So far the LGV is living up to my fondest memories. It’s solid, smooth cocks easily and has a delightful trigger. I can’t wait to see what it will do with modern target ammo!
104 thoughts on “Walther LGV Olympia: Part 2”
The wadcutters that you mentioned are really made for pistols. How about testing some real target rifle pellets?
Yesterday I was shooting my recent HW 50S at 47 yards. It did better than I thought it would…
I had a HW50s about 6 years or so ago. It shot great out at 50 yards. I was using the .177 caliber JSB 10.34’s.
What pellets are you using and what kind of sights?
Scoped, JSB 7.33 sometimes 8.44’s. Too much drop for me with heavy .177 pellets.
What magnification do you shoot at? I use 4 magnification. From what I remember mine shot pretty flat out to 50 yards. A bit over a 1/2 mildot from 20 out to 50 yards. That’s pretty flat. Pretty much what my TX 200 did also.
12 x , 3.5 hash marks down for 50 yards. MIL markings. 27 yard zero.
Ok that’s around where I zero too. Usually 25-30 yards.
And I take it you don’t have a first focal plane scope. That higher magnification that you use is what’s making you need so much hold over. Try some shots just for the heck of it down on 4 magnification and see where your shots land. Bet you won’t need so much holdover out at the longer distances.
I will give it a try. But I like to see what I’m aiming at! H FT allows scope up to 16X. Max distance is 55 yards. Plus I get to see the near misses…
PS for hunting I agree, turn the magnification down.
It might just surprise you using the lower magnification.
Get your focus right and you still should be able to see your pellet holes on your target when you shoot. Even at 4 magnification.
But let me know how it goes.
The reason I shot lighter pellets? One word — velocity. The LGV is not as powerful as many 10-meter target rifles.
But for 10 meters they should do well. That is why I use lighter 7-8 grain pellets in my 12 fpe HW 50.
Ok now I see. You got the lower powered HW50s.
What velocity does yours shoot the pellets at you mentioned?
800 fps +/-
800 fos is plenty for a heavier 10 grain pellet in .177 caliber out at 50 yards to keep your trajectory nice.
My older HW30s shoots JSB 10.34 grain .177 pellets flat enough for me at 4 magnification even out at 50 yards even at the lower fps than a HW50s.
Your HW50s should shoot them well too. You should try turning your magnification down lower and lower till you get a better trajectory, or should I say more acceptable to how much hold or kill zone you need. When you mess with your Chairgun try changing only the magnification perimeter and see what happens at the different distances on the graph. And set your kill zone at 1 inch. That’s a pretty good size for most pests if you do use it for that purpose. It will make you a better shooter and also make it easier to hit a given target if you do have sighting errors or other variables that we all do have.
Did the H&N Finale Match Light feel tighter when loading into the breech? That may be the reason why it’s slower than expected compared to the Qiang Yuan Training pellets.
I must have missed the comments/questions about the gross adjustability of the peep sights. Many 10meter
air rifle shooters shoot with a great deal of intentional can’t. Although I have no personal experience with this model Walther I think you will find that the front sight can be made to match that cant by some means to include perhaps twisting the entire barrel sleeve.
If you take a close look at the front sight picture in Part 1, you can see that it does not have the ability to cant. It fastens to slots in the barrel and is not fastened to the sleeve. Can the entire barrel be canted in the barrel block? That I do not know.
You’re right. No, the entire barrel cannot be canted. They didn’t think about things like cant in the 1960s and ’70s.
How does this compare to the current version of the rifle?
What exactly is the current version. Post a link if you can.
I think he means this one:
I have one of those and the newer century GT. They are quite frankly the most accurate full power breakbarrels I have ever shot, bar none.
So in that sense they do share a lot with the vintage LGV, accuracy and the barrel lock. But that is where the comparison ends. They are totally different beasts, the vintage LGV is a 10m match rifle. An obsolescent one, but probably the most accurate break barrel you will shoot at 10 meters. It does not really get above 600 fps much with any tuning, I got an LG 55 which is basically the same action to 650 once with JSB RS.
The ‘new’ LGV is a full power air rifle much more suited to field use. It is not a match rifle, springers are not in any position to win 10m matches anymore.. (Feinwerkbau 300S owners are shouting ‘boo’ at me and throwing tomatoes.)
It is a pretty sweet field target rifle though (the newer LGV), and I am able to snipe sugar cubes with mine at up to 50 meters. But no it does not really fall into the same league or even the same sport as the vintage LGV.
Thanks for the link to the blog. And I see when I click on the picture in the blog that PA says it’s not available no more.
I think RidgeRunner is probably taking about the same one as Edw. Maybe.
The Century GT is a lovely air rifle and came with a nice Walther 6x42AO scope.
Which calibre is yours and what size groups do you get with it?
A former colleague of mine in Dordrecht bought a Century GT on my recommendation a couple of years ago and was very pleased with it, but would like to try it with open sights Do you know of a set that will fit?
It’s such a pity that Umarex discontinued the Century GT. I wish I had bought one while they were available. The new Century Varmint does not tickle my fancy at all.
It groups very similar to the LGV that BB reviewed (my GT): PCP-like accuracy. Please enlighten me as to the difference between the GT and the Varmint. I looked them up and they look very similar indeed.
I read in, I believe Hector Medina’s blog, that he fitted the LGV with diopter match sights because he was so tired of parallax and it worked out pretty well for him actually.
Here I go linking to another airgun blog, I have no idea if that is acceptable here:
But if you like reading some more on the LGV it is a pretty sweet read.
The main differences are that the Varmint has a thumbhole stock and a smaller barrel weight, though I think the barrel is longer than the GT (490mm vs 400mm).
Have you had any problems with the trigger on yours? Has the 6×42 scope held zero?
I figured a Williams peep sight would be great on the Century GT if a Weihrauch globe front sight would fit the dovetail on the barrel weight. Gerrit at Krale checked for me and unfortunately it doesn’t fit.
Thanks for the link to that blog. Many interesting posts there. Just finished reading one about a test of a Diana 48 fitted with a compact 3×32 crossbow scope.
Here’s a picture of the Walther Century Varmint.
And here’s the discontinued Walther Century GT.
A well known air rifle company in the SW still has a few of one version in stock.
Is the one out west the same as the one in Carel’s link or is it different?
It is the same. I do not have an issue with the syn stock, but those sights…
No it’s not. It doesn’t have the barrel lock.
They still have a completion LGV available in .22 caliber which I thought was strange that is a wood stock with a adjustable comb. It’s around $699.00.
I’ll email you the link of the one I’m talking about.
I’m wrong sort of.
They do list the one I’m talking about but it’s not available.
It seems that nothing is available that is what is common now days. Basically the ones now days don’t have the barrel lock.
That is something that makes the gun unique. Another reason I would want the older one compared to the newer one your talking about.
The Ultra is the one I would have bought if they had put it together right. There were five versions of the air rifle if I am not mistaken. Two of them had the iron sights and the others had the glowy thingy sights. Why they had glowy thingys on the LGV Competition Ultra is beyond me.
Don’t get me wrong. I would really like to have this version of the LGV. The issue is I have a thin wallet when it comes to toys and none of these are cheap when you find one.
As far as barrel lock, the HW35 has it and it is still available. One of the gals at RRHFWA has a barrel lock.
The 35 is a nice gun. I could see myself owning one someday.
Who knows maybe sooner than later.
If you get it in .22 and end up not liking it, there will be a place for it at RRHFWA. By the way, I was just shooting the Millita some.
The walnut stocked HW35E is a beauty and well worth the premium over the beech stocked HW35. You can’t go wrong with either though. Timeless classics.
I will never get it in .22 caliber.
Really surprises me that the competition model is not in .177 caliber.
.177 caliber is used for multiple reasons in competition. Kind of strange to me actually that they offered it in .22 caliber.
It was offered in .177 at one time. I guess all that was left at the end of the run was .22. The only reason I want .22 is that I have some very nice .177, but could use a couple of real nice .22 in my modest collection. Do I REALLY need them? No. Do I REALLY need any other airguns? No. Are there a few I would still like to have? Yes.
Yeah. You got the links below. I didn’t want to post competition sites like krale.
All good thanks.
The “current” version is no longer in production. It was right expensive and not powerful enough for the ‘Merican market. I myself was wanting a couple of the versions, but they had those defuncdified glowy thingy sights on them. If I could have had the “iron” sights on them I would have probably acquired one. I could have bought those sights and installed them on the version I wanted, but that was a good chunk on top of an already expensive air rifle. I could do it now, but I could not do it then.
Not much trouble to make a sight – even with a hacksaw and a file, done that enough times. The dove-tail is the fussiest part. If you have access to a mill then you are laughing!
I recently made a rear sight for that old Kelly that I refurbished. Took me a couple of minutes to figure out why it was shooting way high on the target – looks like I need to do some barrel-bending LOL! BB mentioned this just recently – somebody has tripped the trigger with the barrel down.
There were several versions of this air rifle. Some had nice sights and others had glowy thingy sights. Of course the glowy thingys were on the versions with the desirable stocks. You could purchase the nice sights, but that was a good size chunk of change on top of an air rifle that was already a very good size chunk of change.
Now if one of these show up at the front door of RRHFWA looking for a place to stay, I might spring for some nice sights.
I suggest you try the RWS Meisterkugeln 8.2 grains. Made for rifles.
I have a 1/3 tin I would be happy to send to you if you don’t already have this pellet.
How are you going to use the peep sights at 50 yards? Maybe have a 2 foot stick right in line with the target and you could lower it or raise it depending on the drop. Do you ever use Chairgun?
If I know BB. He’s just going to aim at his target and let the group land where it does.
And then if you want to you should have enough adjustment with the sight to get the pellets on the bull after you shoot that first group.
We’ll see though. He might have a trick up his sleeve.
Oh and forgot I have used Chairgun. Matter of fact I have the app on my phone right now as well as my laptop.
Have you used Chairgun? What do you think about it if you have?
Just started to play around with it. I need to make a “dope” sheet, for when shooting at various distances.
I think you will like Chairgun.
It gets you pretty darn close. But remember it’s just a estimator. What happens on paper is the truth.
Paper don’t lie!
You got it.
I have the Meisters. Thanks for the offer.
I did shoot the Chinese pellets that weigh almost as much.
Following your own advice it may be worth while to try some match pellets that are not wadcutters especially beyond 25 yards.
I tried a scope on my LGV Olympia once without any mounting issues but three of the stop grooves on my rifle are cut larger than the rest. I got mine from Carel and it is a joy to shoot. I am not his sales agent but I can say the same about everything I have from Carel.
There are no match pellets that are not wadcutters! Just because the name Match is on the tin means nothing. Only wadcutters can legally be used in a 10-meter match.
That said, I will probably also try for domes.
And I have purchased several airguns from Carel, as well, so I agree with everything you said.
Those who shoot a lot have a collection of dome pellets in inventory that tend to be accurate. They tend to cost more than big store pellets. Some have tight tolerances for head diameter and or weight. Of course each barrel is different but this at least narrows the choices for finding the best pellet for each gun. You know all this but new readers may not.
Thanks for reporting on one of my favorite airguns.
Maybe he should use that scroll of paper he used once?
I don’t know if I remember that. Refresh my memory.
I’m going to bring something up that I don’t think we have talked about on the blog. Not that I can remember right off the top of my head anyway.
And first off I have already tryed this little experiment.
But do any of the air gun shooters out there wear ear plugs when they shoot? And yes I mean with shrouded pcp’s as well as low velocity springers?
What brought this on for me to try it was that I remembered the old farmer neighbor when I was a kid. He had a hearing aid he wore all the time. I remember him talking about his old Chevy pickup truck how nice it was to drive when he had his hearing aid turned off. He said it was like driving a Cadillac. But when he turned the hearing aid on it was like a old rattle trap and couldn’t stand to drive it.
We’ll that got me thinking. I wondered if a air gun seemed more enjoyable to shoot or maybe even gave the illusion the gun was more smoother when wearing ear plugs. We’ll when I tryed several different air guns with and without the ear plugs the guns did seem to be better to shoot. Plus I didn’t have no noise distractions and I think I was more focused on my shots.
Anyway just wanted to bring that up.
That would make sense,… no noise distractions. It would allow better mental focus and concentration. That might be a real plus for someone that competes where there is a whole line of shooters, shooting all the same time. I do believe that I have seen people wearing what would appear to be blinders. That would reduce side/peripheral visual distraction.
Each to their own, but maybe the best shooters are able to overcome/work with, any and all distractions without sight or hearing limiters?
Read my reply to BB I just made about the ear plugs.
I’ve never seen earplugs worn at a match. But when you shoot you don’t notice distractions. The concentration is beyond what is normal.
I understand about what you mean about match shooting.
But what I was meaning when I compared not using ear plugs and using with air guns and the old farmer and his hearing aid and the old truck.
Does a air gun seem more calmer to shoot if you use ear plugs. In otherwards and not trying to be mean here. But maybe not hearing the gun buzz when shot with ear plugs it gives the feeling that it’s smoother shooting. You may still feel it. But it just don’t seem as bad because you can’t hear it.
And here’s the not trying to be mean part. Do you think your hearing is not as good as it use to be when you shot this gun in the past. You mentioned you thought it buzzed more in the past compared to now. Or do you think something else could of changed in the gun?
Wow — am I that hard to talk to? 😉
Just kidding. My hearing is worse than it was several years ago, but when I refer to buzziness it’s what I feel through the stock, not what I hear.
You know, when I shoot at the rifle range I use electronic earmuffs that magnify the sound until it passes a certain level. I always say when I put them on that I need to get hearing aids — which I do. I say that because I can hear the birds singing again, once they are turned on.
The muffs help with big bores and with loud PCPs, but not with springers. I have never tried earplugs with airguns, so I really can’t say when they would do.
Lol no your not hard to talk to. We’ll sometimes. 😉
And just kidding not really at all.
Maybe that’s a test for me to do next. I never really seen if it helped improve my groups when I tryed the ear plugs. I was just concerned about if the gun seemed to feel better when shot.
I think those ear muffs may work when I’m on a tractor, which ones are you using?
Both my old truck and my tractors sound like something is wrong with them when I wear my hearing aids. The pellet guns are also much louder.
I have had my hearing aids for a few months, they were not cheap but I am very happy with them. They are not perfect but are much better than without. I did not know how bad my hearing was. When the guy let me try a pair I was sold instantly. I can listen to music again. The algorithm for noisy restaurants work pretty good.
Dillon electronic ear protectors.
Are they the HP1 model? If so I will order a pair.
I am very happy to see one of my favorite air rifles again on the blog today! I just wanted to share some info that might be useful.
One is they do respond very well to tune in a tube for any vibrations, you can apply that through the cocking slot when you take the stock off. A little goes a long way. And will take away most if not all of the vibration.
And on the scope front there are good ways to do it. I usually use a single piece mount on these rails like the one in the picture. I believe they are called cantilever mounts. They give you a little more room to play with depending on the scope you are using.
I really hope you will scope it and try it at 25 yards, if only to see more of these cool rifles.
Best regards from the Netherlands,
Thanks for all the tips. I suppose I will have to test it with a scope, and the cantilever mount is a good suggestion.
Here’ another suggestion if you insist on mounting a scope on your Olympia.
Like you, I believe that the scope rail is soldered and therefore could easily be “pried” off the gun with a scope mount. The lack of a scope stop pin is also of concern so scope creep is a factor.
Although the cantilever mount that Carel shows could work I would be concerned about the short clamping pressure and the cantilever nature that with a scope mounted acts like a pry bar.
Although I dislike a “layer cake” approach to scope mounting I used a longer intermount to not only spread the pressure of attachment along the length of the rail it eliminated scope creep if you use a lightweight scope.
Here is a link to the intermount on the Pyramyd Air site. Yes, you will need rings:
Below you can see this intermount on my Walther LG55 that was used to mount the lightweight Burris Timberline (same scope you have on your R8)
After seeing the mount you posted in the PA link. I would now consider one of these guns we are talking about today.
I didn’t like the solder idea they used. But I would consider the gun with the mount you suggested.
Thanks for that info.
I have two questions I’m sure this blog and it’s commenters can answer;
1. How is a ‘recoiling’ spring rifle different than other spring rifles?
2. If manufactures regard fiber optic sights as an upgrade to ‘iron sights’, why do most commenters here poo-poo on them ?
As far as shooting with ear plugs, I would like to try it. I think the elimination of one sense could help me focus my sense of feel and sight to enjoy, and possibly improve my shooting. However, since I shoot in my suburban back yard, I must be alert to my neighbors. If they are out in their yards, I pack it up and go inside. So I don’t think I’ll be able to try ear plug shooting.
Since almost all spring rifles recoil, your question is really what it a non-recoiling springer.
A few target rifles have ways of cancelling the spring piston recoil. And the Whiscombe and a few like it also cancel recoil but with greater power.
But most spring piston air rifles do move with recoil when they shoot. They move backward and then forwards.
Fiberoptic sighjs give a MUCH larger aim point that spoils accuracy. If you don’t mind hitting within 3/8-inch they are fine, but they have no precision.
Actually, thanks to this blog, I know what a recoilless springer is, you wrote about it a month or two ago. I think I was thrown off by the caption under the opening pic. When I read ‘last recoiling rifle’ I though “all springers pretty much have recoil”. The whole sentence is, “last recoiling target rifle”. Thanks for clearing that up.
Also thanks for explaining the fiber optic sights thing, it makes sense. I’ve never used fiber optic sights so I had no frame of reference.
A FWB 300 is an other example of a springer that doesn’t recoil. Take a lot of engineering/cost to make a spring rifle recoilless so you only see that in expensive target rifles.
The FWB 603 (SSP) is a heavy target rifle that even has a little gizmo to offset the little pulse caused by accelerating a light wad-cutter pellet.
Here is a link that shows what causes the recoil,…
Note demos 10 and 15 and note the rearward bounce at the end of the piston stroke. That would be rearwards recoil. Before and after that would be forwards recoil.
If you have not seen this site,… spend some time on it. Many demos are interactive,.. as wherein you can change things and see what the results would be.
I woul like to know if you do try it at some point in time with and without eat plugs.
I experimented with ear plugs while shooting paper at 30 feet in the basement. The snappy report of one of my springers bothered my ears as I shot while standing 3 feet from the (sound reflecting) wall. I put in some foam earplugs and my eyes didn’t involuntarily blink from the report and I felt like I could engage my mind in the act of shooting a little more. I think I can shoot better with ear plugs. Try it! I love the story about the hearing impaired farmer and his rattletrap (Cadillac) pickup!
Have a good day all!
Thanks for sharing that.
I believe it’s a good thing in more ways than one.
I am so impressed with the craftsmanship of this old rifle. If the scope rail was silver braised correctly,
it will not pry off. For many years the best steel bike frames were made joined with silver. The tolerances for the joint need to be even tighter than for brass, so fit up was more time consuming, expensive. I would want a rifle
that takes a peep sight like this one. The LGV has that fibre optic on it, and the ‘merican in me likes FAC versions for the extended range they offer too. Clearly, another springer or two yet to own/ shoot. When made well, an airgun can become an aesthetic shooting experience, sort of like it feels just sitting in an old air/oil cooled Porsche? Nice photos too. Best Robert
I’m pretty sure the sight base of this gun is not soldered on. Hot bluing has a way of ruining a solder connection I believe. I may be wrong but I say that because of my experience with double-barreled shotguns. That have to be rust blued because their barrels are soldered and hot bluing destroys them. The solder used on them may be lead solder, I’m not sure. Silver solder may resist hot bluing.
After reading 1stblue comment about the silver soldered bike frames I would say if that’s how they soldered on the dovetail it shouldn’t be a issue.
I myself would no doubt in my mind mount a scope on one of these guns if I got one. So all this information today is good.
Happy Saturday everyone!
Off-topic: Is “Slinging Lead” still active on here? Just wondering. I was looking up something on here, to provide a link to an old blog for someone on a FB group. I happened across one of his posts from back in 2011, which reminded me he used to post indexes for the month, like this — “PA Blog Index for May 2011” — in which he listed the date and titles of all the posts for that past month. That was great!
He has posted here and there. Haven’t seen him post in a while. He always had good posts from what I remember.
Hope he is ok. I always wonder what happens when you don’t hear something from someone for a while or anymore.
The ASP-20 has arrived early! I wasn’t expecting it before next week, but it came yesterday. I have only had time to take it out and inspect it. Hoping to squeeze in a few minutes of shooting in the basement this afternoon or tomorrow.
First thoughts / observations. It has been well over a year since I had my hands on this rifle, and I had forgotten how solid, how substantial it feels. Good stuff! The fit and finish look great. It arrived in the factory box, inside a shipping box. There’s good foam inside the factory box, and the rifle is inside a plastic sleeve inside of that. It comes with a number of tools — allen wrenches for the scope and trigger adjustments, as well as another one I haven’t figured out what it’s for yet.
There is a manual for the rifle, and one for the scope. It also comes with another cap for one of the scope turrets, an indexed one. The scope manual says it has illuminated reticles (I don’t remember mention of that before.), and requires a CR2032 battery. I’ll dig in further, but did not see a battery in the box — that’s disappointing.
I was surprised to find the scope already mounted on the rifle. I did not buy the 10 for $10, or order scope mounting. Just eye-balling it, I would say the scope is not mounted level — the reticle is not aligned.
One big disappointment so far — the scope has no end caps, no protective covers. For a combo that retails at $600, I would think there would be a $2 battery and protective scope covers included.
I’m looking forward to breaking this in.
Let us know how it shoots. I cant wait. The ASP-20 already has a good reputation, I hope yours is a winner. Kind of weird not including the battery. I guess if they are going to cut costs the battery and scope covers is a good place to start rather than on the scope itself.
Is the battery already in the scope ?
TT — It’s too late for me to edit my original post. I spoke too soon. It seems I did not notice that the manual is for the Whiskey “series” of scopes. This particular model does not have the illuminated reticle, so no battery.
My apologies for rushing and putting out incorrect info about the battery.
No problem . That’s just one of those things that happens.
I’m glad it doesn’t have illumination, put the quality in the scope optics not the doodads.
With you there.
No worries! You aren’t the only one confused by the ASP20 scope; PA has it advertised as having multiple reticles available and also ILLUMINATED.
SIG Air says the Whiskey 3ASP isn’t illuminated and makes no mention of multiple reticles.
Enjoy your rifle I hope it is totally reliable and has an exceptional barrel that gives you SCREAMER 10 round groups :^)
Here is something else I been meaning to bring up also.
Has anyone noticed that there are sporting guns out there like the Marauder and Tx 200 and others I can mention that shoot better 10 meter groups than some 10 meter competions guns.
My .22 Maximus makes one hole groups at 10 meters. And I mean one hole. Not even a jagged hole.
And to top it off they can shoot for the most part better groups out at longer distances than most 10 meter guns.
What it looks like to me is the rules is what’s controlling the type of guns that can be used in 10 meter competition.
At least feild target for the most part is more open minded with thier rules than other competions.
Wonder which has a bigger following.
Anyway. At least we have some accurate guns to choose from now days in the different aspects of shooting.
And back to shooting on this beautiful warm August day.
Walther LGV Olympia may be the most accurate break barrel rifle at 10 meters. This has been reported by a reader and I can’t dispute it. My FWB300S is obviously not a break barrel so it is out of the competition. My two Weihrauch break barrel rifles are right in there for accuracy at 10 meters but not better than my Olympia. Does the TX200 beat your Olympia at 10 meters? You may not have the Olympia now but you may have kept targets?
What I was getting at is there is regular sport guns that can shoot really good groups at 10 meters and beyond.
And not comparing to any particular 10 meter target gun. Just saying there are guns out there that are not 10 meter target guns that can shoot extremely good groups at 10 meters.
B.B. and blog readership,
Slightly off topic…
What do you all think about the Hollywood (NBC/Universal) film The Hunt?
Also, your impressions on the decision to keep it from showing in theaters on the previously announced Opening on September 27, 2019?
That sounds like a “can of worms topic” if I ever heard of one. Probably a good/responsible move on the producers halting it.
One of my favorite series is the Expendable movies. I like to see all the “tough guys” in their final movies. That however is done in the terrorist/war type scenario. Watching Rambo First Blood, Part II now. If you want to watch people hunting people,… checkout war movies. Better yet (or worse),…. sign up and get a “front row seat”,… for those that are curious/serious.
Personally,… I am not into all the murder mystery series/movies/dramas or otherwise. Heck,… I can get that on the local evening news, near daily.
Just my 2 cents,….. since ya’ was askin’. 😉
Never heard of it.
I have been watching the Saga of this film for about a year and a half. It has gone through a number of Title changes but the desires of the creators have remained the same. Obviously it was intentionally kept quiet to try for an impactful Open.
I find it Deplorable!
“Deplorable(s)?” Not sure,… but from (some) people’s points of view,…. I am pretty sure that I resemble that remark! 😉
Haven’t heard of that movie in our area. The names of movies do not always depict what the movie is actually about. Could be people hunting animals, or animals hunting people, as in “I was prey”. Without seeing a trailer of the movie, I wouldn’t know what it was about for sure.
Unfortunately it isn’t PETA film; it might have some small shred of truth if it was one of their productions.
It is a story about 12 people, Deplorables (a label Hillary Clinton used for gun owners during her 2016 presidential campaign) who are hunted by Elite Liberals on an exclusive estate.
An early Title was Red States vs. Blue States but with only a 18 million US Dollar production budget I’m certain they had to scale back from such an ambitious scale.
Trust me you don’t want to see the Trailers they are disgusting in there lack of Humanity.
I believe this film needs to be shown; but only within the framework of an educational opportunity outside of any academy of higher learning.
Yep agree with you. I would like a walnut stock hw35 no doubt.
Do you have a set of clear inserts that will fit the front globe sight on your Olympia?
I don’t think my clear inserts fit the Walther sight. But the older metal insert I have in it works like a champ. You will see on Friday.