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Beeman C1: Part 2

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Beeman C1
My new Beeman C1 is a .177.

Part 1

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • Baseline
  • H&N Baracuda Match 4.50mm
  • RWS Superdome
  • RWS Hobby
  • Discussion 1
  • Trigger pull
  • Cocking effort
  • Discussion 2
  • Summary

The Beeman C1 I am testing is the airgun I acquired at the Texas Airgun Show this year. In Part one I noted for you all the shortcomings I could find with the rifle, which were many. These are the things I will address as this report advances. So, we will look at velocity today, but not accuracy until I straighten the bent barrel and tune the powerplant.


Today’s test will just establish where things are at this time. Now before we start testing, I want to say a few things. Reader David Enoch said he thought detuning this rifle to shoot a little slower might be a good idea. He was looking for a rifle that cocks easily. I hadn’t thought of that, but it doesn’t seem wrong.

The C1 doesn’t have an adjustable trigger. It’s a light trigger and we will find out how light this one is today. But a small rifle that’s accurate and easy to cock is a very nice thing. It’s the reason I like the Diana 27 so much. The C1 is larger than the Diana 27, but still small enough to be considered handy, so I’m going to give this idea some thought. Until we open her up and see what’s inside I really don’t know where we are yet.

Okay, let’s see what she’s doing today. This is a .177 caliber rifle that Beeman touted as an 830 f.p.s. airgun. We’ll see.

H&N Baracuda Match 4.50mm

I started with the heavy H&N Baracuda Match pellet with a 4.50mm head. This pellet weighs 10.65-grains and in the C1 it averaged 647 f.p.s. That produces a muzzle energy of 9.9 foot-pounds. The 10-shot string ranged from a low of 637 to a high of 655 f.p.s., so the spread was 18 f.p.s.

We know that in spring-piston airguns the lighter pellets are usually more efficient, so they should be slightly more powerful as the weight decreases. The C1 is a vintage spring gun that should prove the rule. Let’s see.

RWS Superdome

The 8.3-grain RWS Superdome was next to be tested. Ten Superdomes averaged 732 f.p.s. for an average muzzle energy of 9.88 foot-pounds. So the power “rule” doesn’t play out with this pellet.

The velocity ranged from a low of 722 to a high of 740 f.p.s. That’s a spread of 18 f.p.s. — again. Interesting.

RWS Hobby

Without a doubt the RWS Hobby was the pellet Beeman used to test the C1, back in the day. It was the lightest lead pellet generally available here in the U.S. at that time and was always used for velocity tests.

In the C1, Hobbys averaged 806 f.p.s. for 10 shots. That’s a muzzle energy of 10.10 foot-pounds, so the power rule holds true with this pellet. The spread ranged from a low of 793 to a high of 817 f.p.s. That’s a difference of 24 f.p.s.

Discussion 1

I am surprised this C1 is as powerful as it is. I would have bet against it, given how light the cocking effort seems to be.

There is a small bit of vibration with each shot, but by the standards of the day when the rifle was made it’s not much. We don’t have to put up with it today, and I don’t intend to, but I’m saying the powerplant may be in better shape than I imagined at first.

Trigger pull

The single stage trigger breaks at 3 lbs. 3 oz. It’s fairly crisp and has very little perceptible creep. I will look at the condition of the mating trigger parts and at least lubricate them when I’m inside the gun.

Cocking effort

The C1 has a strong chisel detent that requires a slap at the muzzle to open easily. You can break it with just your hands, but the slap makes it go faster. Once broken open the barrel is very loose and flops around. I do want to tighten the barrel pivot if I can.

The rifle cocks with 26 lbs. of effort. It should be about 35 lbs.  The cocking stroke is smooth all the way through. David Enoch, I think this rifle is what you want right now if I can fix those other things. If the mainspring is still straight I will leave it in the rifle. But if it’s canted I will replace it, because a canted spring causes buzz.

Discussion 2

I will be interested to see the piston seal, because the one in this rifle is made of Teflon. It doesn’t have a parachute lip; it’s just a solid white hockey puck.


This is as far as I can take the C1 before I straighten the barrel. So the next installment may take some time, because a lot of things might have to happen before I can write it.

56 thoughts on “Beeman C1: Part 2”

  1. B.B.,

    So you’ll straighten the barrel first, determine accuracy then tune and lube? Do you have a replacement for the rear sight already?


    PS: Section Baseline first paragraph last sentence: “I hadn’t though (thought) of that, but it doesn’t seem wrong.

    • Yogi,

      I thought I explained it in the text. Next I disassemble the rifle, straighten the barrel and examine and tune the powerplant as needed.

      By “a lot of things” I am referring to all of that. Until I see what’s inside the gun I have no idea of what parts may be needed or how soon I can return it to operation so I can test it for accuracy.


      • BB,

        Perhaps you could try nylon/Teflon washers to shim it tight.

        Have it machined to accept a bolt.

        Have countersunk holes for screw head and nut on either side machined in.

        Send it to live at RidgeRunner’s Home For Wayward Airguns.

      • Hey, greetings from the future. My C1 also has a rather loose barrel pivot , but there is no side to side movement. I have taken countless squirrel with this gun and it is my favorite for general duty. I liked it enough to restock it in a real nice walnut.The Beeman SS2 scope works great and likely something like a bug buster would be fine. I hope you followed through with this one.

  2. B.B.,
    I found it interesting that there was little variation in energy output even as you went down in pellet weight. It seems like this is a 10 ft-lb gun regardless of what you feed her. Not that that’s a bad thing; a short and light gun in that power range could be a great plinker. Yet it leads me to wonder what she might do with a .22 caliber barrel installed. A quick internet search showed some .22 caliber C1s for sale, but no individual barrels. Perhaps an airgun show might turn one up? Well, as RidgeRunner said, we are pulling for the old gal. =>
    Take care & God bless,

  3. Morning B.B.,
    This is a good one, I’m very interested in seeing what you find inside! I hope you can make this Beeman C1 into an interesting gun when you’re done with repairs. This stock design is so straight and there is no defined pistol grip. I want to call this a “western” style stock. Can you or your readers discuss what type of shooting this style of stock is “good for.” It looks like it would be quick to shoulder and aim, but not as comfy as a target stock. Thanks!
    Best regards,

  4. B.B.,

    I meant to comment after Part 1 that I think the C1 is the most attractive air rifle I’ve ever seen, except for some replicas. That combination of carbine barrel with full size western stock just grabs me.


  5. BB,

    This is going to be another interesting one for me.

    I am intrigued about the Teflon piston. In principle it seems like a good choice of material for its softness and lubricity. However, as far as I know (that doesn’t say much!) they are not common. Any reasons pro and con? Perhaps you can elaborate when you take a look inside.

    A nice weekend for everyone!


      • B.B.,

        I assumed that you had heard of them and maybe even used them. If you can, get your hands on one of their catalogs. They are like 3″ thick and I swear you could build an airgun from what they offer. At least a mini – pumpkin chucking device,… Precision tubing first comes to mind. I am sure they have washers down to .001″ or .002″. With that, you could shim side play to near zero. For sure an inventors dream catalog is all I have to say.

        At any rate,… very good for specialty hardware.


    • You know there is a perpendicular rod in the barrel joint below the barrel that matches a cut out on the bottom of the barrel stub in the barrel block. That arrangement seems to align everything quite nicely. There is not however a lot of friction on the joint itself and this may help a bit with the light cocking effort while ( or whilst if you’re English) keeping aligned during the cocking motion.

  6. Geo,

    Off topic,…computer related question,………..

    I have a HP laptop that has a couple of “sticky” keys. Nothing has ever been spilled on it. The 5 and the space bar are the most (only?) issues at this time. Quite aggravating. The keys are hard, not soft rubber.

    A quick search showed canned air, vacuum, brushes, etc.. I have not done this lately. Off, unplugged and battery out seems to be the advice. Electrostatic shocks, I presume?

    If I could remove 4 screws and have the guts drop out and give things a good clean,… then that would be good. If it involves much beyond that,… no thanks. I read that it varies and some can be a real nightmare. A remote keyboard, which I have,… is another option,… so I read.

    At any rate,… any (quick and simple) advice would be appreciated. I am sure that I am not the only one here to have a couple of aggravating sticky keys.

    Thanks,…. Chris

    • Hi Chris,
      Glad to help you with this issue. I’m not sure how old your HP laptop is so it may have to older style large keys, or it may have the chicklet style where they are kind of sunk into the keyboard. Here are a couple of links that will demonstrate how to remove and clean the sticking keys. If you haven’t spilled anything on the keyboard, it’s probably just dirt and debris that has accumulated. I have replaced keyboards on Dell laptops because in those cases the keyboard was just plain worn out. I isn’t a difficult job and the keyboards for laptops are relatively inexpensive. I think I paid $12 for a new keyboard on ebay. If you work on your airguns, I know you could replace a laptop keyboard if necessary. Maybe just a little cleaning will work in your case. Please let me know if you need any more help.

      • Geo,

        Thank you. I watched some videos as well. Key removal was the main instruction I was seeking incase the more traditional methods failed to fix. I found video’s showing exactly what I have and my specific key underpinnings/mechs. Quite interesting, complex and delicate for just making a key work. I am now confident to go further, if needed.

        Thanks again,…… Chris

  7. B.B.
    Over the long haul, run? I am with Ridge; the barrel pivot is a big deal.
    Could we see a picture of how Mendoza did it? It looks like the stock bolts
    are coming in at a diagonal too? Depends on the shot cycle, accuracy, but a bit less spring might
    be sweeter indeed. A PG/2 kit would tame it, if such a thing existed, but this little carbine is so light,
    too much bucking bronco would not be a good thing, IMHO. How much work is too much work with this one..

    • I have put thousands of rounds through my C1 and have noticed no accuracy degredation. The barrel while still swinging freely with hardly any friction still has no play side to side and locks quite nicely aligned by the rod and round notch arrangement. Webley had been making airguns for close to 80 years when this was made and I think likely their machinists were quite experienced as were their designers and or they had started using CNC machines by the vintage of this model.

  8. BB
    The lesson you should be teaching is tighten up the barrel action first

    Bending the barrel only affects the pellet point of impact to your aim point. Like you always preach don’t shoot out your aim point.

    If you don’t tighten the barrel action first no matter how much you bend the barrel it’s not going to matter. The barrel/action will still be moving. The barrel breech being tight is what needs addressed first.

  9. B.B. and readership,

    Is it time (is there time?) to revisit as you stated in Part 7: https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2019/01/sig-asp20-rifle-with-whiskey3-asp-4-12×44-scope-part-7/

    I’m not finished testing the ASP20, but I will give it a break for awhile. In summary I have to say the following:

    1. The ASP20 is the most accurate breakbarrel air rifle I have tested.
    2. The Matchlite trigger, while not a match trigger, is the best American-made spring-piston sporting air rifle trigger ever.
    3, The ASP20 cocks easier than any other spring-piston breakbarrel in its power class.
    4. The keystone breech has no competition.
    5. Sig knows how to rifle an airgun barrel.
    6. If you are looking for a good sporting spring rifle you can’t do better than the ASP20. But that only holds true when you do your part.”

    SIGAIR has the much awaited ASP20 rifle with Whiskey3 ASP 4-12X44 scope combinations in stock right now (PA has no combos and a wait list on some of the bare guns) in both wood and SYNTHETIC. The images appear to show two QD sling fittings on both sides of the forend and buttstock.

    How are the readers finding their SIG ASP20 for reliability?


    • Shootski

      Just came in off the back porch after getting a little trigger time with a SIG ASP20 synthetic in 22. Thought I’d check the blog, and here we are.

      Have only had her for about 2 weeks now, maybe 500-525 pellets run through it. As with anything new there is always that learning curve to go through. There really hasn’t been a hiccup one in mechanics. The trigger is pretty straight foreward to adjust, just follow the enclosed booklet. I’m still tweeking but its getting there. Literature says 2.5lbs. minimum, I have mine down to 1.5lbs but I’m afraid to go any lower . Never know when that little nut will slip off that little screw and you are out of luck. I just don’t know enough about this triggers innards, yet! I know B.B. really likes this trigger, all I’ll say is it ain’t a RECORD!!!! You can call me a trigger snob, but I like 14 to 15oz first stage, you hit the wall and then all you have to do is think about it and the pellets gone. I can make a Rekord go off when I want it to, haven’t been able to do that yet with this trigger but I’m working on it.

      The synthetic stock is well done as far as I’m concerned. No, there are not any swivel studs on it. The two screws at the butt hold the buttpad in place, thats all. The wrist grip and forend are well textured, you’re not going to drop it except on purpose. Some guys might object to the presence of a small mold line running down the back of the grip right beneath the trigger weight adjusting screw but I use it as a locator . It lets me know my thumb pad is in the same place every time I pull the trigger. Now for my only gripe about this stock. For me, it’s too wide and blockish right over the trigger guard. If you go to the PA site and look at a closeup on the wood stocked model you’ll see that it is nicely contoured and rounded as you come down the side of the stock to the trigger guard. On the synthetic there is actually about a 1/2in. flat that sticks out from the trigger guard before it goes vertical. What this does is make a knife edge your finger lays on. Instead of just feeling the trigger ,there is also a pressure point somewhere between the first and second joint on my trigger finger. It distracts me just enough I believe it affects my accuracy! After my 30 day wait time is up with PA, out comes the dremmel and a chainsaw file and we will rectify this situation! One more note. All the reviews so far on the wood stocked guns say they have no problems shooting right on bags and rests. NO GO on this rifle. It didn’t take long to figure out it was the artillery hold or go home! What is different about the wood? It will be interesting to find out.

      RidgeRunner, its time for you to get off the fence and get yourself one of these critters! I can’t say I’m happy with everything on the rifle “BUT” I’ve shot it enough now to firmly believe that a furry or feathery creature could be in serious kipshee if they got into around 45yds. or closer! If you buy one to punch paper you probably won’t like it. If you want to lean back against a big white oak and wait for a tree rat or maybe a grouse to wander by it’s just the ticket in my humble opinion

      Bottom line: It’s about 1/2lb too heavy, it’s a little louder than it should be, it will drive a 14.3Gr. JSB clean through a steel soup can at 45yds., you can shoot all afternoon if you cock with both hands not one,and the best part for me is I shoot it better sitting, kneeling, prone, and offhand than I do sitting at a bench!

      This rifle is just the cats meow for a walk in the woods. It’s a hunter, plain and simple

      Bob F

      • Bob F.,

        “This rifle is just the cats meow for a walk in the woods. It’s a hunter, plain and simple”
        That is all I would want it for!

        Thank you for the personal review of your SYNTHETIC .22Cal. ASP20.

        I’m disappointed that the holes aren’t for QD sling hardware. I shoot actually using a sling and like to walk, ski, climb and crawl with my rifle slung. I hope to ask someone knowledgeable on the topic at SIGAir about swivel or QD Fixture installation for the Synthetic Stock. As far as the ledge by the trigger it sounds a lot like how Olympic rifles are configured. However, I have never been hesitant to get out the rasp or the putty to make a stock work for me. As far as triggers all I usually ask from a trigger is consistentcy and I have shot/own Olympic level firearm and airgun triggers, hunting arms as well as many military weapons systems. I workout both of my hands with Power Putty daily, it really does make a big difference to have good trip endurance as well as strength. I can deal with a heavy trigger pull just as well as a super light weight trigger as long as it is CONSISTENT.

        One question: what glass do you have on it? As I said to B.B. the Wiskey3 ASP 6-12×44 is probably a good scope for typical buyers but I think this rifle may deserve a better (higher magnification) scope.
        I looked for the typical SIG optics specification chart for the Whiskey 3 ASP and it doesn’t exist (or I can’t find it) although I can find them for all the other SIG scopes ;^)


        • Shootski,

          I’ve thought about how to put sling swivel studs on this rifle but only half of it is easy. For the rear stud install all you need to do is remove the buttplate,figure out where you want the stud, take modeling clay and build two dams, one on either side of where you want the stud to sit, fill that space with JB Weld or a stock bedding mixture. That will give you a solid block inside the stock to install the stud into. I prefer to drill and tap the epoxy, that way if for some reason the epoxy should ever come loose for some reason, the stud and block ” a’int goin nowhere “. The only solution I can see for the front mount is a barrel band type of stud mount. There are still one or two manufacturers who produce them, the problem is you have to find one that closely matches the diameter of your barrel at the place you want to put it. My barrel measures .630 right in front of the breech block. I as of today have not found anything even remotely close to that. I’ve decided to fire up the mill, die grinder, files and sandpaper and make one to fit. Oh, you don’t have to worry about the barrel unlocking while slung. The chisel detent spring on these rifles is as they say, overbore for the job at hand.

          What glass, now don’t laugh, I have a 3-9 BugBuster on it and it’s probably more scope than I need for the job I want the rifle to do! Don’t have a chrono, so don’t know what the fps are. All I know is this, out to 13yds aim a reticle line thickness high – 15 to 40yds put the crosshair on it and pull the trigger – 40 to 50yds aim halfway between crosshair and first MilDot high. Out to 50yds I have found no need for all those extra MilDots- just clutter in the scope! I try to keep all my shots at critters to 35yds or less. I have to admit, when I’m in the woods probably 80% of my shots are taken on 3X and I don’t fiddle around with the paralax at all. Just set it around 50yds and forget it. The squirrels don’t seem to notice I’m not in perfect focus. UTG makes a 1to8X that would be just perfect for short range small game hunting. All it needs is some way to adjust the paralax to where you want. 16 or 18X is a wonderful thing, but in my neck of the woods I haven’t found any shooting benches equipped with sand bags and a cushy stool placed in strategic locations up and down the hollows. That’s enough rambling from me for now. If you happen to aquire an ASP20 in the near future let me know how it performs for you!

          Have a good one!


          • BobF,

            Your stock stud ideas sound very workable. The lock up on the barrel may be tight enough to go with a barrel fastening system for a carry sling point of attachment(s) but I have forever had issues with that approach. I use a shooting or Biathlon sling; until more folks have done slings and I have a chance rule out any other way to get forward attachment point(s) for a sling I’ll listen and learn. I’m not in any rush to purchase the ASP20 since I’ve already waited this long for the SYNTHETIC stock. I really hope SIG Air finds a way to sell a stock that is more/totally like the SSG3000 Patrol’s; it even has a working cheek rest.
            I have no problem with your choice of glass; a shooter that knows what they need for their proposed use is not all that common. It also appears that in relatively few shots you know your ASP20/BugBuster combination better than many owners ever will!
            Your statement about, “16 or 18X is a wonderful thing, but in my neck of the woods I haven’t found any shooting benches equipped with sand bags and a cushy stool placed in strategic locations up and down the hollows.” is interesting. Why do you need all that prepositioned gear in order to use a higher magnification scope? Sling or stick(s) often do the trick for me to keep the wobbles under control; I have never owned a bipod.

            Enjoy your walks!


            • Shootski,

              I’m glad you found my statement 16 or 18X is a wonderful thing interesting. I’m thinking about how to put this—————-smoke is rolling out my ears—————- it’s not about equipment, it’s about technique. For most people with a little woods savy it’s not too hard to bag a limit of bushytails. Know where the food is, know where there’s a spring seep with a small pool up on the mountain, know where a couple of den trees are, go sit, kill squirrels. Thats how most guys I know do it and have fun doing it! They hunt squirrels to kill squirrels. My mindset is a little different than that. I use squirrel hunting as training, a tuneup for bigger and better things to come later in the year. You know as well as I do if you don’t spend time in the woods our senses become dulled and out of touch with whats going on in nature. I find for myself it takes about a week of no TV, no cellphone, no wife, no kids, no dogs, no cars, no visitors, basicly eat, sleep, use the outhouse, spend all day cruising in the bushes to get back into the flow of what is really happening in the woods. Thats where squirrel season comes in to play.

              I don’t sit and shoot squirrels, I like to walk into a place I know has a squirrel or two there. Stand and watch for that flick of a tail or pick out a furry little face sticking out of a den hole then see if I can slip in to 25yds or so and kill him without him ever knowing I was anywhere around. When I get to the point I can actually start killing them pretty regularly doing it this way I know my fall tuneup is complete. All I know is if I can get to that point with tree rats, whitetails seem to be a piece of cake for me!

              Shootski, hope you now understand why an 18X scope would just be a hinderance to me for what I intend to use the SIG for. Would really prefer a 1.5 or 2X for the greater field of view! Yes , I could take the Dreamline Clasic ” IN WALNUT ” in 22, flop out the bipod, crank it up to 24X, and kill that squirrel at 65yds. But thats just not the way I choose to do it!

              Have a good evening


              • Bob F,

                No need to have smoke roll out of your ears! I understand. My Motto has always been: Stalk Closer! That’s why I fight to get States to allow more use of airguns for hunting appropriate game. I’m really upset with Utah’s limitations on PCP hunting of big game to only arrow shooting airguns. I spend time in the East and the rest out in the Intermountain West so my glass tends toward the higher magnification needed for the longer range hunting conditions in the West as well as when the leaves are off the trees and the deep snow is on the ground both back East and in the West. I spent too much time in HOT, or HOT and WET bug infested places to ever want to do much hunting or camping in those conditions.
                Even though my scopes may go above 20X they spend most of their time at 10X or some other lower power that my retical is indexed to. I have slowly started the shift to First Focal Plane (FFP) as I like the fact that I choose the field of view and my retical continues to be able to range without a lot of mental math or going back to the indexed power setting.

                Enjoy your walks in the woods; take heart White Tail season isn’t all to far off! Do you hunt the same places for both prey?


                • Shootski,

                  Sorry I didn’t get a chance to reply yesterday, we had an “AOG” . What is an AOG you ask? Well in Southern Maryland in August that equates to 2 small passing thunderstorms and a whole afternoon of drizzle with a temp drop of about 13 deg. After living here for the last 25yrs you learn to take as much advantage of that situation as possible! In laymens terms I worked my backside off outside trying to make up for the last three weeks of 90+ weather. I most assuredly agree with your statement about HOT/HOT-MUGGY! Been there, done that, unfortunately for me my better half likes it here. OW

                  My answer to your question is ” YES”. If you think about it squirrels and deer pretty much eat the same food. Their daily movement patterns are all pretty well geared to one thing, lets fill up the tank with food and water and then beat feet to some place that to them is warm, dry, comfy, and most of all safe. If you spend enough time in their environment, you eventually start to see, smell, feel, and use it as they do. Once you get to that point all you have to do is mix in patience and a little bit of common sense and you should be good to go! Just remember, in this ” Age of the Modern Man ” unfortunately the last two are almost extinct.

                  One final note, I think my ASP20 is going to work out just fine! She got bloodied last evening. Was out nocking off some feral soup cans right before dark last night when lo and behold, the rotten rabbit that’s been eating off all my new blueberry canes hopped out of the woodline and right smack into a JSB 14.3 at around 26yds. It do seem to do the trick!

                  Have a good one!


  10. Hi BB,
    I am late to the party. You are right about the cocking effort being about where I would like it. I am kind of amazed that the power is as high as it is with quiet a bit lower cocking force. This is an interesting gun.
    David Enoch

  11. Really liked the C1. Nothing really mechanically different from a Vulcan I owned at the same time, just a much more “lively” handling rifle. My only complaint was that the wrist of the stock felt “fat” ).

    Was at it’s best shooting “up”, so was a natural for pest birding or tree squirrels.

    (Guess that’s why the straight gripped “English” type shotguns still have a loyal following.)

    About the only easy cure for barrel wobble would be shims.

    LIke the stock so much, had one made for a PCP in the same style (although thinner at the wrist). Know he made two, the other one for another web-airgunner’s Dsicovery before things kind of ran off the rails.

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