Beeman R10: Part 4

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Beeman R10
Beeman R10.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

History of airguns

This report covers:

  • The test
  • Scope
  • Sight in
  • JSB Exact RS
  • JSB Exact 
  • JSB Exact Jumbo
  • Falcon
  • 10-shot group of Falcons
  • Shootin’ machine
  • Summary

Welcome to the last report on the Beeman R10 that I tuned. This will be the accuracy test at 25 yards.

The test

I shot the rifle off a sandbag rest at 25 yards. I used an artillery hold with my off hand back by the triggerguard. I shot 5-shot groups to test more pellets and then 10-shot groups when I found a good one.


I scoped the rifle with a UTG Bug Buster 3-12X32 scope. It fit the R10 quite well, and when you see my groups I think you will agree that the scope worked.

R10 scoped
The Bug Buster fit the R10 well.

Sight in

I knew the scope was shimmed to take care of moderate barrel droop so I fired two shots at 12 feet and was immediately able to move back to 25 yards. Shots three and four were used to refine the zero and then I fired the first 5-shot group. read more

Slavia 618 breakbarrel air rifle: Part 1

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Slavia 618
Slavia 618.

History of airguns

This report covers:

  • History
  • Research
  • Model variations
  • What is the Slavia 618?
  • Comparisons
  • Stock
  • Summary

Some of you may have been hoping for Part 2 of the Beeman R10 rifle report today. Well, Part 2 will be the strip-down and installation of the Vortek tuning kit, and I need a couple days to do the work and take the pictures, as well as the writing. So today I’m starting my report on the Slavia 618 breakbarrel pellet rifle.


Guess what? Almost nobody knows the history of this air rifle. It has a lot of fans, but nobody seems to know much about it.

The Blue Book of Airguns says it was made in the 1970s — period. But they say the same thing about the Slavia 622. Well, I received one of those as a gift in about 1961 or ’62, so that’s obviously not right. read more

The Webley Hurricane: Part 4

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Webley Hurricane

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • The Great Enabler
  • Before we test
  • The velocity table
  • Air Arms Falcon pellets
  • RWS Hobby pellets
  • What happened?
  • A test
  • Crosman Premier Lights
  • Do you see what is happening?
  • But wait!
  • RWS Hobbys
  • Air Arms Falcons
  • A huge lesson!
  • Cocking effort
  • Trigger pull
  • Summary

Today is one of the best blog articles I have ever written. A series of what what looked like minor failures turned around and became a huge success and a fantastic learning opportunity. Today we test the velocity of the recently lube-tuned Webley Hurricane.

The Great Enabler

Spouses beware! Today I will once more demonstrate how I earned the title of The Great Enabler.

Before we test

I was as much in the dark as the rest of you. I had not chronographed the Hurricane until this morning, and I knew as much as you did about what might happen. I did note that the pistol now cocks smoothly, though I doubt it is much easier than before. Maybe just a little because there is no feel from galling. It also shoots very smoothly, where before it had a slight buzz. read more

The Webley Hurricane: Part 3

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Webley Hurricane

Part 1
Part 2

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • Qualifier
  • Lotsa pix!
  • Begin
  • Remove the stocksides
  • STOP!
  • Roll pin 3
  • Roll pins 4 and 5
  • Safety
  • Remove plastic forend
  • Remove the barrel pivot pin
  • Remove the barrel and cocking link from the gun
  • BB’s first tip
  • Not a lot of spring tension
  • Remove the mainspring and guide
  • Problem identified!
  • What to do?
  • Three lubricants
  • BB’s next tip
  • Test the pistol
  • BB’s final tip
  • Summary

Better put on a whole pot of coffee. This is the longest blog I have ever written.

Here we go — diving into the Webley Hurricane — an air pistol I have never wanted to see the insides of! I was warned about little springs that might fly everywhere. There aren’t any. But there is a sear spring that is attached to absolutely NOTHING, and yet does its job well — IF PUT BACK IN THE GUN THE WAY IT WAS BEFORE IT CAME OUT!

There are several things like that — things the blog that reader Derrick directed us to never mentioned or showed. Things that the Webley manual got wrong!!! My aim is to set the record straight and then to advise most of you to never go inside this pistol or a Tempest. I will show how it comes apart and describe how it goes back goes together, but before you undertake such a task take a look at my qualifier, below. read more

Diana 27S: Part 5

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Diana 27S
Diana 27S.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4

A history of airguns

This report covers:

The ball bearing cage spring and guide
TW Chambers
Assembling the anti-beartrap
The first test
How much lube?
Here we go!
Air Arms Falcons
JSB Exact Heavy
RWS Hobby
Cocking effort

Today I finish assembling the Diana 27S, and we test it for velocity. Since I’m using the same mainspring that it came with, this will be a good test of how Tune in a Tube affects velocity. Let’s get started.

The ball bearing cage spring and guide

When we left the rifle I told you that it didn’t have a spring guide for the spring that fits between the inner and outer ball bearing cages. These two cages control the movement of the three ball bearings that are fundamentally the sear of the rifle, and that spring is essential to their operation. I could have assembled the rifle with just the spring, because that is how it came to me. But that’s a sloppy job and, since I don’t plan on taking this powerplant apart again, I wanted it to be right. read more

FWB 300/150 disassembly instructions: Part 3

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Part 1
Part 2

Today’s report contains special instructions for the disassembly of a Feinwerkbau 150 air rifle — for those few places where it departs from the FWB 300 instructions presented in Parts 1 and 2. It was translated and written for us by reader CptKlotz.

If you’d like to write a guest post for this blog, please email me.

Over to you, CptKlotz.

This report covers:

  • Additional information for disassembling FWB 150 rifles
    Trigger blade
    Ratchet unit
    Powerplant disassembly — potential danger!

This article was originally published on the German co2air forums ( It was created by the users Pellet (original text guide), Paramags (additional information and FWB150 details ) and boerni (photos and forum post). They kindly gave me permission to translate their guide so people who can’t read German can use it as well. The original forum post can be found here.

Translation by Stephan Szlosze (CptKlotz). Any text in italics is a comment from the translator.

Disclaimer: If you decide to work on your gun, you do so at your own risk. Neither Pyramyd Air,, the authors or I will accept any responsibility for injury or damage to you, your rifle or your equipment. Please read the guide carefully and proceed with caution.

Additional information for disassembling FWB 150 rifles

The action of the FWB 150 rifle is almost identical to that of the 300/300S. Still, there are some crucial differences that need to be kept in mind.

Steps 1 through 8 of the FWB300 guide apply to the 150 as well. The following steps are different and will be explained here.

Trigger blade

Removing the 150’s trigger blade is not as easy as it is on the newer models. This is not a problem, though, since removing it is not required for disassembly. When removing the trigger/ratchet unit, make sure the screwdriver’s blade is exactly the right size. On the old models, these screws are extremely tight and it is very easy to damage the screw’s head.

FWB 150 cocking lever
The cocking lever should be unlatched to make it easier to remove the screw.

First to come off is the cocking lever. Unlatch it before trying to remove the pivot, as that takes the tension off the screw.

Ratchet unit

Next to come off is the ratchet unit that contains the trigger mechanism. The ratchet unit prevents the sliding compression chamber from closing before the action is cocked. It interfaces with the piston so it can hold it in position before the sear has been set.

FWB 150 ratchet unit off
The ratchet unit that contains the trigger mechanism is off the gun.

Now that the ratchet unit is off the rifle, you can use the opportunity to clean and lubricate it.

Important: When you reassemble the rifle, make sure the ratchet unit is making proper contact with the piston’s notch.

FWB 150 piston notch
The ratchet unit (below) has a metal tab that engages the piston notch (arrow). Make sure they go together correctly when the gun is assembled.

Powerplant disassembly — potential danger!

Now we come to the most significant difference between the FWB 150 and the FWB 300. The FWB 150 does not have an anti-beartrap device like the 300. This means there is no leaf spring and no pin to secure the powerplant. This makes removing the parts of the powerplant much harder! It is almost impossible to safely do so without the help of a second person!

FWB 150 powerplant
The 150 action has no anti-beartrap device. The 17mm screw (arrow) is all that holds the powerplant together. When it comes out, the parts want to fly apart under spring tension.


One person should press the action against the floor with the muzzle pointing up. The second person uses the 17mm wrench to carefully remove the screw that holds the powerplant together. Once it comes out the spring is only held in place by muscle power bearing down on the gun! Release the pressure slowly to let the powerplant components slide out of the action.

FWB 150 powerplant open
The screw has been removed (upper left) and the mainspring is relaxed.

Important: When assembling the action, the second person has to make sure the end cap is aligned properly with the action. Otherwise, the threads can be damaged when reinserting the screw. Again, do not attempt to do this by yourself. It is very difficult to install the parts correctly while working against the power of the mainspring.

FWB 150 spring
An original FWB 150 mainspring looks like this. 

If your rifle is still in its original state, you will find a single spring.
FWB 150 spring vs 300 spring
The 150 spring (above) compared to the 300 spring.

The spring for the 150 is not available anymore, but it is possible to use the dual mainsprings of the 300. You will, however, have to remove the linking piece (the solid piece in the center of the 300 spring that holds the two smaller springs together) as it will not fit over the spring guide inside the end cap, thus making cocking the rifle impossible.

Since the springs will always be under preload, they will work fine without the linking piece.

FWB 150 end cap
The spring guide on the FWB 150 end cap is too large to fit over the FWB 300 spring connector. Just leave it out and everything will fit fine. read more