ASG CZ 75 Shadow 2 airsoft pistol: Part 4

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

CZ75 Shadow 2
ASG’s CZ 75 Shadow 2 airsoft pistol.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

This report covers:

  • A good use for airsoft
  • Not a gun guy
  • Enabler
  • The test
  • GameFace Maximum Precision 0.25 gram
  • Valken Infinity BBs
  • Metal Tac BBs
  • Accelerate BBs
  • TSD 0.26-gram Bio 180 BBs
  • Did not shoot 10
  • One BB revisited
  • Summary

Today will be the last report on the ASG CZ 75 Shadow 2 airsoft pistol. I told you at the end of Part 3 that I was going to test the pistol with other ammo and today is that day. But first, a practical word.

A good use for airsoft

Like me, most of you don’t skirmish, which is the principal use for airsoft today, though the pistol we are testing is also good for collectors and target shooters. But there is another good use for airsoft — critter control.

My neighbor, Denny, asked me if I had anything to discourage a pesky robin from pooping on his truck. This bird is apparently from the shallow end of the gene pool and likes to perch on a sideview mirror. When he does, he sees his reflection in the window glass and thinks it’s competition. He will peck at it for some time, and then get frustrated and poop on the side of the car. Sounds funny but he makes a real mess because he keeps coming back for more.

So Denny asked me if I had an airgun that would discourage the robin from hanging around his truck. I did! I had just completed the first accuracy test of the ASG CZ 75 Shadow 2 airsoft pistol, and I had it shooting to the point of aim at 10 meters. I gave him a quick rundown of how it works and how to load it and sent him on his way.

The first couple times he shot real close to the robin who flew away, but as I mentioned, this bird is very persistent, so he kept coming back. On his third visit Denny smacked him in his red breast with an airsoft ball that sent dust flying up from the feathers. He got the message and flew away. No more robin at Denny’s!

After that Denny saw the robin doing the same thing to a truck across the street! And I found some thank-you poops on my truck and bed cover. But the bird hasn’t been back to visit Denny for many days.

CZ75 Shadow 2 truck poop
Somebody left me a couple thank-yous!

Not a gun guy

Denny told me at breakfast yesterday that he is no gun guy but he wanted me to tell all of you that this CZ 75 has a gorgeous trigger. I must agree, because as I shot it yesterday for this report I, too, was amazed all over again. I wish very much that this pistol was made to shoot steel BBs, too! Or even, dare I say it, pellets through a rifled barrel?


You guys call me the Great Enabler. Well, I want you to know — Denny is my Enabler. After listening to him I have upgraded my television, DVD player, my couch and easy chair. And with good stuff, too — the kind you would advise someone else to buy! Thank the Lord I drive a Toyota or he’d be after me there, too! I just felt you ought to know that what goes around on this blog also comes around in my life — so quit yer whinin’!

The test

I shot today at 10 meters from a rest. I will describe the holds as we go. I wore my reading glasses to see the front sight clearly.

I shot 5 shots at each target. The hold is at 6 o’clock on the bottom of the black bullseye. If I had gotten any remarkable groups, like 5 balls in one inch, I planned to keep shooting until there were 10 shots in the group.

GameFace Maximum Precision 0.25 gram

First up were GameFace Maximum Precision 0.25 gram BBs. They are not biodegradeable and I mention that because the majority of airsoft BBs seem to be biodegradeable these days. That’s a big change from when I was testing airsoft 15-20 years ago. Back then biodegradeable BBs were not that good and people tended not to shoot them. These BBs are made in Taiwan.

I rested the bottom of the pistol grip against the sandbag for this first target. Five BBs went into 3.256-inches at 10 meters. It was not as good as I had hoped, so I tried the same BB a second time with a different hold.

CZ75 Shadow 2 Gameface target rested
Gameface BBs gave this open 3.256-inch group at 10 meters when the base of the pistol rested directly on the sandbag.

The second time I shot the Game Face BBs I held the pistol with both hands off the sandbag. The pistol was free to move. That tightened the group to 2.12-inches between centers and it also brought all the BBs to the aim point. This is obviously the right way to hold the gun for this BB.

CZ75 Shadow 2 Gameface target held
That’s more like it! When the pistol was held in the hands 5 Gameface BBs went into 2.212-inches at 10 meters.

Because of the dramatic difference in group size I hand-held the pistol for the rest of the test. Next up were Valken Infinity BBs

Valken Infinity BBs

These are 0.25-gram biodegradeable BBs that are also made in Taiwan. Five went into 2.363-inches at 10 meters, They are also right at the aim point.

CZ75 Shadow 2 Infinity target rested
Infinity biodegradeable BBs did well, too. They went to the aim point in a 2.363-inch group at 10 meters.

Metal Tac BBs

Next up were five Metal Tac 0.25-gram BBs from China. Metal Tac is just their name I think. They look like white plastic to me. Five of them went into a 2.58-inch group at 10 meters. This group is a little higher than the aim point and slightly off to the left.

CZ75 Shadow 2 Metal Tac target rested
Five Metal Tac non-biodegradable BBs went into 2.58-inches at 10 meters.

Accelerate BBs

Next to be tried were 5 Valken Accelerate 0.25-gram BBs from Taiwan. These are also non-biodegradable and instead of being white or black they are a medium gray color. Five made a group that measures 3.456-inches between centers. It’s the largest group of the test.

0CZ75 Shadow 2 Accelerate target rested
Five Accelerate BBs went into 3.456-inches at 10 meters. I know it looks like only 4 BBs hit. I think two went through the bottom hole. This is not the BB for this pistol.

TSD 0.26-gram Bio 180 BBs

Next I tried a slightly heavier 0.26-gram biodegradeable BB from Team Specialized Distribution (TSD). These went right to the point of aim and stayed in a small 1.954-inch group at 10 meters. It was the smallest group of the test. These BBs are made in Taiwan.

CZ75 Shadow 2 TSD Bio 180 target rested
Five TSD BBs went into 1.954-inches at 10 meters. It’s the smallest group of the test and it went right to the aim point. This would be a BB to try!

Did not shoot 10

I told you I would shoot 10 BBs at a target if there was a tight group of five. On the target above, if all 5 BBs were in the area where the three on the right are, I would have shot five more. But that didn’t happen.

One BB revisited

In Part 3 the 0.25-gram TSD Tsunami BBs made the two smallest groups of the test. I felt they deserved a second chance with the pistol held in the hand, so I shot five of them today. Unfortunately, they do not like being hand-held and what had been good groups before expanded to a poor group this time. Five BBs went into 5.067-inches at 10 meters. It was the real worst group of the test, though we know from Part 3 that it shoots much better when the gun is rested against the bag.

CZ75 Shadow 2 Tsunami target rested
Ooops! TSD Tsunami BBs don’t like it when the pistol is hand-held! Five went into 5.067-inches at 10 meters. This is the real worst group of the test.


The CZ 75 Shadow 2 airsoft pistol from ASG is absolutely delightful! The trigger is superb, the pistol is very realistic and it’s also reasonably accurate. I hate to send it back to Bob Li of ASG — who, by the way, is another of my enablers. The problem with Bob is whenever he tells me something is good, it really is, so I have no defense. I like good airguns!

I haven’t written about a lot of airsoft guns in the past several years, but I can do more. I just don’t want to loose sight of the main purpose of this blog, which is airguns, defined as pellet and BB guns.

Resealing the Beeman P17 air pistol: Part 2

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Beeman P17
Beeman P17 air pistol.

Part 1

Today’s report is written by reader 45Bravo. It is Part 2 of his report on resealing the Beeman P17 air pistol. This is the part of the report I have been waiting for, because I want to go deeper inside my P17.

This report will go differently than some in the past. We will first learn how to reseal the pistol, which ends today, then I will test one for you. But while this story has been unfolding I have bought a Beeman P3 pistol to test alongside the P17. We will find out how the two airguns really compare in all ways. I hope you are as excited as I am!

If you’d like to write a guest post for this blog, please email me.

And now, over to you, 45Bravo.

Resealing the Beeman P17 air pistol: Part 2

This report covers:

  • Step 2.
  • Step 3.
  • Just remember:

Now it’s time to go beyond the simple fix we did in Part 1. Thankfully that is the biggest problem people have with the Beeman P17 and it is so easy to fix. Today, however, we are going past that to something else that sometimes happens.

Step 2.

If your pistol is dumping the air when you get to the end of the pump stroke, or if you can hear air escaping as fast as you pump the gun and you feel absolutely no resistance while pumping, then we need to dig deeper.

This requires disassembling the pistol, so we will start by removing the piston like we did in part 1. Then the right grip comes off by removing the screw in the right grip with a 2.5mm Allen wrench.

Beeman P17 remove grip
Remove the right grip panel.

As you slowly pry the grip halves apart, an L shaped spring that connects to the sear will pop out of the rear of the grip, but don’t worry, it is wrapped around a pin, and will not go anywhere. [Editor’s note: Some of our readers have discussed this spring already. Apparently it gives problems if not installed correctly.]

The 2 pins SHOULD stay in the left grip with all the parts in place.

It looks very complicated under the grip, but in actuality, there are only 11 parts, and they are assembled in 3 groups.

Group 1. The sear and L-shaped spring and pivot pin.
Group 2. The hammer, the larger L-shaped main hammer spring, the smaller internal P-shaped spring inside the hammer, lever, coil spring, and pivot pin.
Group 3. The trigger and pivot pin.

Beeman P17 parts arrangement
How the parts are arranged under the right grip panel.

Tip: Take photos before you remove the parts as you go.

Using needle-nosed pliers lift the tail (on the left) of the lower L-shaped hammer spring out of the grip frame to relieve the spring tension.

Lift the left-most pivot pin just enough so it clears the plastic hole, and pull the sear, and spring rearward and out.

Unhook the lower spring from the hammer. That’s the part that looks like a big number 7. You do not have to take the trigger out for this repair, but if you do, it is only the trigger and the pivot pin.

Unhook the lower end of the coil spring by the trigger, and remove the spring.

Pull the hammer pivot pin out slightly, then lift the right side up to rotate it around the valve stem, and the whole assembly will lift out.

Inside the hammer (the number 7-looking piece) is another spring, shaped like a P, that the pivot pin goes through, please pay attention to its orientation.

Beeman P17 sear and hammer
The sear assembly (left) and the hammer assembly out of the gun.

Step 3.

Now we need to remove the compression chamber.

On the left rear of the compression chamber is a 2mm grub screw, loosen it and, using a punch, knock out the pin holding the compression chamber in the frame.

Tip: Support the plastic frame of the pistol while you drive out the pin.
A simple way is to take a scrap piece of 2×4 and drill a 1/4-inch diameter hole through it, as you punch the pin through, it will go down the hole you drilled.

If you don’t have a 2×4, you can support the pistol on a roll of electrical tape and the pin will go into the center of the roll of tape as you drift out the pin.

Beeman P17 loosen Allen screw
Loosen Allen screw so pin can be driven out.

Beeman P17 drive pin out
Loosen Allen screw so pin can be driven out. The pin and punch is shown here for clarity, but you want to support the far side of the plastic pistol frame as described in the text when doing this.

The compression chamber now lifts straight out the top of the pistol.

There are 3 metal “fingers” at the rear of the compression chamber, they are held in place by a small cross pin, the center “finger” is different than the others at the base. This center “finger” engages the sear during the cocking process. Drive the pin out and remove the three fingers.

Beeman P17 3 fingers
The center “finger” in this picture engages the sear during the cocking process.

The breech o-ring at the top of the compression tube can be can be replaced easily, it is one of the 2 #009 o-rings.

A 13mm wrench is used to unscrew the brass valve nut on the lower part of the compression tube.

After it is unscrewed the valve just pulls straight out.

Beeman P17 valve out
The valve pulls straight out of the compression chamber.

Clean the valve, and inspect the 2 o-rings.

On the gun I’m resealing, the smallest o-ring at the top of the valve in the picture above was split. Replace it with the #006 o-ring, and lube it with your choice of lube.

Beeman P17 split o-ring
The smallest o-ring on the valve was split.

Replace the lower (larger) o-ring with the second #009 o-ring.

Tip: Wrap Teflon plumbers tape around the brass threads on the valve to give an extra layer of sealing. (it may not help, but it doesn’t hurt either.)

Screw the valve back in to the compression chamber.

Tip: Hold the valve stem nut while you tighten the brass valve nut in place to prevent the top o-ring from spinning in its seat, and possibly being damaged.

Put the 3 “fingers” back in in the correct orientation, with the different one in the middle.

Put the compression chamber back in the frame, and tap the cross pin in (supporting the frame as this is done) to secure it to the frame, and tighten the set screw at the left rear of the compression tube with the 2mm Allen wrench.

Take the hammer assembly, put the left side of the number 7 looking piece over the valve stem nut, then rotate it to the right, just the opposite of taking it out.

Tip: There is a small groove in the frame where the pivoting lever part of the hammer assembly will fit up into. If the lever doesn’t go up into there, the trigger will not contact the piece to fire the gun.

Put the larger of the 2 springs back on the lower screw shaft, and put it back in place on the hammer (the thing that looks like a number 7) but do not put it under tension yet.

Slide the sear and spring and pin back in place, but don’t put it under tension yet.

Using the needle-nose pliers, hook the small coil spring back into the pivoting lever piece of the hammer assembly behind the trigger.

Beeman P17 parts back
Correct orientation of everything before putting tension on the springs.
This spring (arrow) is the last one to be tensioned, it goes UP into the right side grip frame.

Now, using the needle-nose pliers, put the left tail of the lower spring up into the left side of the frame.

Start the right grip panel on the pivot pins, and just before it closes completely, push the tail of the smaller sear spring up into the frame. Make sure it goes UP into the right side of the grip.

Tip: If the tail of the sear spring goes into the left side of the grip, it puts pressure on the sear in such a way that it doesn’t catch the hammer consistently, causing the gun to sometimes dump the air on cocking, but not every time.

Tighten the right grip with the 2.5mm Allen wrench.

Put the piston back in as in part 1, and function test the pistol.

This addresses the 2 major reliability issues with this pistol. There are many threads online about how to mod it for more power and many other things.

The one last thing that is a nuisance is when pumping, you accidentally press down on the rear sight assembly, when you do, it relieves spring tension on the elevation screw, and allows it to rotate, thereby slowly raising your point of aim with every shot.

To solve this problem open the action, and unscrew the rear sight elevation screw, be careful, as there is a spring under the rear sight that can go flying if not careful.

Also there is a nut under the sight inside the “slide” that will fall out when the screw is removed.

Tip: Put a piece of tape over the inside nut, so it doesn’t fall out when you remove the elevation screw. Just remember to remove the tape when done.

Beeman P17 slide underside
That nut will fall out when the elevation screw is removed. Put a piece of tape over it to hold it in place while you work on the rear sight.

I put a small piece of the same fuel tubing we used for the transport seal in the S&W 78G reseal on the elevation screw, it now keeps the screw in place, and doesn’t rotate when you press on the rear sight assembly during cocking.

Just put the tubing on the screw, put the spring in place, and tighten the elevation screw.

Beeman P17 tubing on screw
A small piece of fuel line tubing (white) on the elevation screw prevents it from rotating during the cocking process.

There you have it, it sounds harder than it is, but for a $30 investment, you get a accurate pistol that is a great value for the money.

When it stops shooting, you have an opportunity to repair the gun with little or no investment.

Just remember:

Be Curious enough to take it apart.
Be Skilled enough to put it back together.
Be Clever enough to hide the extra parts when you’re done.


45 Bravo

Beeman C1: Part 1

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Beeman C1
My new Beeman C1 is a .177.

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • Take this gun
  • History
  • Artillery hold
  • A compromise
  • Smoother with use
  • Use a mainspring compressor!
  • The test rifle
  • Description
  • The breech
  • Barrel pivot
  • This C1 has
  • The plan
  • Goal

Sometimes you buy airguns because you long for them. Other times you buy them on the recommendation of others. And every so often a good deal just pops up and you feel you really need to take it. Such is the case with this .177-caliber Beeman C1 that I bought at the 2019 Texas Airgun Show.

Take this gun

A man walked up to my table holding a Beeman C1 that was scoped with a Beeman SS1 scope. The price he asked was so reasonable that I didn’t hesitate buying it, and, before long, reader David Enoch walked over and asked to buy the scope. I sold it to him, and I was left with just the rifle for a very reasonable price.


The C1 is a Webley rifle that was also sold by Beeman. It was made from 1981 to 1996. In the .177 caliber I am testing it was said to shoot pellets up to 830 f.p.s. with a cocking effort of 35 lbs. I will test all of that for you, of course.

The production of the U.S. rifles (apparently Webly sold the C1 in the UK, as well) began with serial number 800,000, according to the Blue Book. My test rifle is serial 801,309, which makes it a very early gun. Webley added a safety to the rifle in 1983 and my test rifle doesn’t have one, so it was made before then — probably in the first year of production. The first C1 that I purchased new back in the late 1980s had a safety, so it was a gun made after 1983.

Beeman C1 baseblock printing
My Beeman C1 is an early one.

Artillery hold

The C1 is the rifle on which I developed the artillery hold. One of my airgun catalogs, probably from Air Rifle Headquarters, said to hold a spring gun tight to cancel the recoil. I tried that for a long time and could never get the C1 to group very well. It could maybe put 5 shots into one inch at 10 meters.

One day I decided to see how really inaccurate it would be if it wasn’t held tight at all. So I laid it on the open palm of my off hand and didn’t bring the butt into my shoulder hard. The rifle was free to flop around as much as it wanted. And, to my utter surprise, the rifle put 5 pellets into 0.3-inches at 10 meters!

Naturally I tried this over and over to see if it really worked, and it did. I was so thrilled that I wrote Dr. Beeman a letter, telling him of my discovery. I thought I might write it up for his catalog. He never answered me, so the idea almost died, except 10 years later when The Airgun Letter started I wrote about it there. I also gave it it’s name while writing the 9 articles that became the basis for the Beeman R1 book. I don’t think I ever wrote a specific article for the newsletter about the artillery hold, but I do think I explained several times how it worked and my readers caught on. And it all came from shooting that first C1.

A compromise

My first C1 was a compromise — something I know many of you can relate to. I really wanted an R1, but at the time we didn’t have the money to stretch that far, so I bought the C1 as the closest I could get. The difference was $189 for the C1 and $249 for the R1, as I recall. That little difference made my decision for me.

When it was new, my first C1 was quite stiff and hard to cock. The trigger was also very stiff. To say I was disappointed by the shooting performance was an understatement! After hearing all the good things about precision adult air rifles and having already owned an FWB 124, this C1 was a boat anchor in comparison. But it was all I had, so I stuck with it.

Smoother with use

After about 2,000 rounds had passed through the rifle, I began noticing that the cocking was getting smoother. At first I thought it was my imagination, but then I started noticing that the firing behavior was smoother, as well. After 3,000 rounds the trigger started getting very light and, if not exactly crisp, at least predictable. It seemed the more I shot the nicer the rifle’s action and trigger became.

About that time I disassembled the rifle to see what I could do to improve it. What I was thinking, I’ll never know, because I hadn’t a clue how to tune a spring gun. The Beeman R1 book was still many years in the future. Black tar hadn’t been discovered by airgunners yet. It existed as open gear lubricant, but it was not known to the airgun community, so we used Beeman’s Mainspring Dampening Compound instead. It did pretty much the same thing, though it wasn’t as viscous, and you had to use a lot more of it.

Fortunately, I also didn’t own a chronograph yet, either, so I had no idea how fast my rifle was shooting. I trusted the Beeman catalog implicitly.

Use a mainspring compressor!

While either disassembling or assembling my C1 a curious thing happened and I got the first photo to go into the R1 book. The rifle’s heavy solid steel end cap got away from me, sailed across the room and broke a desk drawer divider in two! Had my arm been there instead, I’m thinking it might have been broken — bruised for certain. I instantly understood the need for a mainspring compressor!

Beeman C1 broken divider
The C1 end cap hit this desk divider to the right of the crack (see the dent in the wood) and busted it in two.

The test rifle

The test rifle is a .177 caliber, as mentioned. It does have open sights, but the rear sight has been broken and poorly glued together with epoxy.

Beeman C1 rear sight
The rear sight has a central screw for elevation and I can see nothing for windage. You can see that the excess epoxy makes it unclear if there even is any windage adjustment. You certainly are’t going to do any!

The front sight is bent to the left, probably from a fall. That makes the open sights useless on this rifle. Yes, they can be fixed, but since I don’t plan to use them, I’m not going to bother!

Beeman C1 front sight
The front sight is a single unit held on by a screw. This one is bent to the left from a fall.

After the front sight was off I test-fired the rifle at a backstop on my desk three feet away. I was surprised to see the pellet striking the backstop three inches above the natural hold. The barrel is severely bent upward right at the baseblock! This air rifle was fired with the barrel open! There is no anti-beartrap, so it’s possible to fire with the barrel broken open.

That would present a problem for many shooters, but you may recall that a few years ago I showed how to straighten a bent barrel. I am probably the right guy to work on this rifle.


The rifle under test is a tad less than 38 inches long, and the barrel accounts for 13-3/8-inches of that. This rifle weighs 6 lbs. 10 oz.

The western-style stock is hardwood that’s probably beech. The pull is 13-1/2-inches. The buttpad is a soft grippy rubber pad. There is no checkering and the stock is very full. The stock on this rifle was the inspiration for the Air Venturi Bronco stock.

Beeman C1 Bronco
The C1 stock was the inspiration for the Bronco stock.

The single-stage trigger is light. I think it’s a bit too light for this rifle. Someone may have been inside, though I do remember that C1 triggers get very light over time. And the rifle cocks easier than 35 lbs. So it may have just been shot a lot.

The spring is quite buzzy, so the rifle needs to be taken apart and overhauled. The piston seal is PTFE, which is a generic name for Teflon. I’ll show it to you when I can. Tune in a Tube will perform miracles on this rifle! At some point either Webley or Beeman realized how buzzy the powerplant was and later on in the production run they installed a spring guide that was also a mainspring dampener. But I think I can quiet the action much more than that with just TIAT.

The steel is deeply blued all over with speckles of rust in many places. I think this may be someone’s first spring gun. They may have tried working on it and didn’t quite get it right or it may have just been neglected. I’ll know more when I get inside. Fortunately, like an older Harley Davidson, the C1 has a lot of extra material to work with, and I think I can turn this sow’s ear into a very nice purse.

The breech

The breech on a C1 is different enough that it’s worth examining. The outside of the barrel has a large deep groove that rests against a crosspin in the action forks. A spring-loaded chisel detent pushes the barrel down against this pin. Theoretically this would have been a way to prevent barrel droop in a similar way to the ASP20’s keystone breech.

Beeman C1 breech
Looking down on the C1 breech we see the grooved breech that rests against the steel crosspin.

Barrel pivot

The C1 barrel pivots on a plain pin. The barrel can get loose and there is no easy way to tighten it. My last C1 barrel wobbled from side to side a lot, which causes poor accuracy. This one is tighter, but there is a little wobble. So — what can I do?

This C1 has

Poor open sights
Bent barrel
Trigger that’s too light? (remains to be seen)
Buzzy powerplant
Rust speckles over all the steel
Wobbly pivot pin

The plan

This test will go differently than they usually do. I will test the velocity next, but I can’t test the accuracy because the barrel is bent up so much that the rifle will shoot 12 to 18 inches high at 10 meters. A scope mount can’t compensate for that. So I will tear the rifle down after the velocity test and straighten the barrel. Since I have to fully disassemble the rifle to get the barrel out, I will also examine and tune the powerplant at that time. I may have to order parts for the rifle after seeing what’s inside. The rifle cocks easily now, so the mainspring could be original and needing replacement. Then I’ll assemble the rifle and start the accuracy test.


My goal is to turn this little springer into an air rifle that’s so fine people can’t stop shooting it! It’s been abused, and it’s time for pampering! This series may take longer than normal, but it should have a happy ending.

Sheridan Blue Streak: Part 4

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Sheridan Blue Streak
My Sheridan Blue Streak dates back to 1978 when I bought it new.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • The test
  • H&N Baracuda
  • Crosman Premiers
  • H&N Field Target Trophy
  • H&N Baracuda
  • Discussion
  • Adjusting windage on a Sheridan Blue Streak
  • 10-shot group
  • Sights moved the wrong way
  • Final group
  • Summary

Today I move back to 25 yards, to test the accuracy of the Sheridan Blue Streak for the last time. I used the information that was gathered from the accuracy test in Part 3 to select the pellets for today’s test.

The test

I shot from 25 yards while seated with the rifle rested on a sandbag. I shot 5 shots at each target but one and I will explain about that one when we get to it. I pumped the rifle 4 times per shot for every shot in today’s test. I will comment on the sights as the report progresses, but when I started the sights were where they were for the 10-meter test in Part 3.

H&N Baracuda

I told you in part 3 that the .20 caliber H&N Baracuda is a lighter medium-weight pellet, unlike all other caliber Baracudas. I shot it first because of that. I was back at 25 yards and I wanted to still be on target and roughly in the center of the bull. And I was!

Five Baracudas hit the bull at the right height, but slightly to the left of center. There were still two other pellets to shoot, so I left the sights where they were. The 5 pellets landed in a group that measures 0.71-inches between centers. Three of the pellets are in the same hole, with the other two some distance away.

Blue Streak Baracuda group
The Blue Streak put five .20 caliber Baracuda pellets in 0.71-inches at 25 yards. It’s a very good group for a multi-pump pneumatic with open sights and a septuagenarian on the trigger!

Crosman Premiers

The second pellet I tried was the tried-and-true Crosman Premier dome that’s no longer made. Both this Blue Streak and my Sheridan Supergrade like this pellet. In fact my Supergrade put 5 Premiers into 0.397-inches when I tested it a year ago. So I was hopeful, but had no idea this Blue Streak was about to do even better!

The Blue Streak put 5 Premier pellets into a group that measures 0.325-inches between centers at 25 yards! Now, that is some shooting! This group is also left of the center of the bull, though the elevation is right on.

Blue Streak Premier group
Five obsolete Crosman Premier pellets went into 0.325-inches at 25 yards. This Blue Streak can shoot!

I want you to remember this group because something happened in a minute that changed the test. Just remember that old BB can shoot when things go his way.

H&N Field Target Trophy

The next pellet was the H&N Field Target Trophy that did so well at 10 meters in Part 3. I wondered what I would do after the Premiers had done so well. So I just put my head down and shot my best. I didn’t look at the target until I walked down to change it. If the group had no measurable size whatsoever, would you believe me that there were 5 shots in it? Well, there was no cause to worry.

The five pellets landed in an open group that measures 0.771-inches between centers. Of the three test pellets, this one shot the worst! It also landed to the left and slightly higher than the other two pellets. No worries there, though, because I wasn’t going to shoot it again.

Blue Streak FTT group
The Blue Streak put 5 Field Target Trophy pellets into 0.771-inches at 25 yards. It’s not a bad group — it’s just not that good.


After these three targets had been shot I wanted to shoot a 10-shot group with the most accurate pellet. On this day that was the Crosman Premier — no doubt about it.

I also wanted to refine the sight picture to hit the center of the bullseye, so I went to the Blue Streak manual that’s still online on the Pyramyd Air website. As you may know, the Sheridan rear sight adjusts in both directions. There is a screw in the center of the leaf for the vertical adjustment. It’s pretty obvious what you need to do. But the windage adjustment is a different matter.

Adjusting windage on a Sheridan Blue Streak

The rear sight leaf has a screw on either side. Both have to be turned to adjust the sight. But what do you do? That’s why I went to the manual. And, guess what? Whoever wrote this version of the manual didn’t know, either. Here is all the manual says about adjusting the rear sight on a Blue Streak.

Blue Streak manual
Yeah — they didn’t know, either!

So I did a search and found people discussing Blue Streak rear sight adjustment on one of the forums. The guy told someone to loosen the screw on the side he wanted to move the sight toward and tighten the screw on the other side. If you want to move to sight to the right, loosen the screw on the right and tighten the screw on the left. My pellets were hitting to the left of center so I needed to move the sight to the right because you always move the rear sight in the direction you want the shots to move.

10-shot group

After adjusting the sight I started shooting the 10-shot group. By shot number 5 I noticed my hands were shaking. Was I really that stressed about this group? Then I felt it — a warning sign that my blood sugar was too low.

I inject insulin 5 times each day to control type one diabetes. I check my blood sugar level before doing this, plus I have to factor in any food I’m about to eat. After 8 years of doing this I have gotten pretty good at it, but every once in awhile I make a mistake. That’s what happened this time and my blood sugar was dropping too far. It starts with the shakes and then I feel super hungry. After that I start a cold sweat and within minutes I will black out. I don’t know what happens after that, because I have only gone that far twice, but I don’t think it’s good.

I persisted shooting, thinking I could just tough it out, which is what I always do and it never works. As the symptoms advanced the shakes got worse, so after shot seven I stopped shooting and treated my situation. Believe it or not, the fix is to eat a candy bar! What a disease!

It takes about an hour for the symptoms to go away, but I didn’t want to wait that long. After a 20-minute break I resumed shooting and shot the final three shots. This wasn’t going to be my best group.

When I saw it I was surprised it was as good as it is. Ten Premier pellets went into 0.942-inches between centers at 25 yards. It looks smaller than that to me, but that’s what the caliper says. HOWEVER…

Blue Streak Premier 10 shots
Ten Premier pellets went into 0.942-inches at 25 yards. But the group went the wrong way!

Sights moved the wrong way

So much for listening to people on the forums! The good news is I can fix it, which is why I’m writing this here. From now on this will be a reminder to everyone who wants to adjust an original Blue or Silver Streak rear sight for windage.

To move the sight to the right, loosen the left screw and tighten the screw on the right. That pulls the rear sight leaf to the right. I watched the leaf move this second time and could actually see what it was doing. I knew how much the sight had moved the first time, so I doubled it and added a little extra. What I mean by that is how loose I made the left screw, which is what allows the sight to move to the right when I tighten the right screw. It was a guesstimate, but it was pretty close.

Final group

To check that the sight was adjusted correctly I fired a final group of 5 Premiers. I was still feeling bad and the group was almost as large as the 10-shot group, at 0.862-inches between centers, but it was now centered very well.

Blue Streak Premier last 5
It’s not a tight group, but the Premiers are now hitting where I want. Five shots in 0.862-inches at 25 yards.


This series has been refreshing for me. I think a lot of you have enjoyed it, too. We took a rifle that was made as an inexpensive replacement for the Sheridan Supergrade and we showed that it is every bit as accurate and as powerful as that icon of American airguns.

I will now put the Blue Streak away with two pumps in the reservoir and the hammer uncocked.

Daisy model 105 Buck BB gun: Part 2

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Daisy Buck
Daisy Buck BB gun.

Part 1

This report covers:

  • Velocity
  • Accuracy
  • Oiled the gun
  • Daisy Premium BBs
  • Crosman Black Widow BBs
  • Dust Devils
  • Trigger pull
  • Cocking effort
  • The test
  • Daisy BBs
  • Crosman Black Widows
  • Air Venturi Steel
  • Hornady Black Diamond
  • Dust Devils
  • Discussion
  • Summary


Today we look at the velocity of the Daisy model 105 Buck BB gun. If you read Part 1 you know that Daisy advertises on the box that this gun develops 350 f.p.s., but I told you I didn’t think that was possible. The larger Daisy Red Ryder doesn’t even shoot that fast. Pyramyd Air says 275 f.p.s., which agrees with Daisy’s website. Today we find out what the one I’m testing will do.


I’ll also test the accuracy of the gun today with the open sights that came with it. I’m doing that now because I’m getting ready to mount a scope on the gun using a brand new scope mount, the Little Buck Rail, that reader Terry Harman has created. So I’m packing a lot into this report to get us to that point. Let’s get going.

Oiled the gun

Before I started the test I oiled the BB gun with Crosman Pellgunoil. That may sound odd (oiling a Daisy gun with a Crosman product), but Pellgun oil is just 20-weight non-detergent motor oil with an o-ring preservative added. Daisy has long recommended using 20-weight motor oil to lube their BB guns and they don’t have a product of their own, so it isn’t as strange as it sounds.

Daisy Premium BBs

First up were Daisy’s own Premium Grade BBs. The first 10 averaged 238 f.p.s. The low was 231, and the high was 244 f.p.s. However I think you should see the entire spread.


What is happening? Why is the gun slowing down? I think the oil is spreading around and slowing things down. Every time I oil a gun it either slows it down, or, through detonation, speeds it up. I’m telling you this because of what happened next.

Crosman Black Widow BBs

This time, when I shot a different BB, the reverse happened. Let’s see what happened with Crosman Black Widow BBs.

3………..Didn’t register

The average is 243 f.p.s.. The low was 233 and the high was 251 f.p.s. That’s an 18 f.p.s. spread, but from looking at the string you can see that the velocity is increasing as the gun is shot. I think the oil is now spreading around and thinning out, and the gun is coming back to full power. To see if that was right I shot the Black Widows a second time.


The average this time was 255 f.p.s. The low was 252 and the high was 259 f.p.s. That’s a difference of 7 f.p.s.

See how the velocity is rebounding? Okay, let’s try a faster BB.

Dust Devils

Dust Devil frangible BBs are lighter so they will probably go faster. Only if too much air escapes around them will they go slower.


The average was 271 f.p.s. The low was 261 and the high was 277, so a 16 f.p.s. spread. There is Pyramyd Air’s 275 f.p.s. number.

Yes, they went considerably faster. Now I wondered where the Daisy BBs that I shot first would be. Let’s see.

Daisy BBs

I shot 11 BBs this time. But this time they averaged 261 f.p.s. where the first time they averaged 238 f.p.s. That’s a 23 f.p.s. difference in the averages. That’s what oiling does to this BB gun! I’m not telling you not to oil the gun. Just know what to expect when you do — and that holds for all BB guns with a similar powerplant.

I didn’t shoot Smart Shot because I think the Buck is too weak for them. If you don’t want BBs rebounding, shoot Dust Devils.

The Buck seems to be about where Pyramyd Air said it would be — 275 f.p.s. No matter what other BBs I try, if they are as uniform as these they will shoot at about the same velocity.

Trigger pull

The single stage trigger broke at between 5 lbs. 10 oz. and 6 lbs. 1 oz. It’s consistent but heavy for a child.

Cocking effort

Cocking is a kid-friendly 11 lbs. but the short lever makes it harder than it sounds. Little tykes will need to find their anchor points to cock this gun.

Accuracy test

Now let’s look at the accuracy. I will shoot 5-shot groups from 5 meters. If there are some tight groups I will also shoot 10 shots with that BB.

The test

I shot from 5 meters. I was seated and used the UTG monopod as a rest. I loaded 5 BBs of one type at a time, to keep all BBs the same for every target. I used a 6 o’clock hold with the fixed open sights. Let’s go.

Daisy BBs

I started with 5 Daisy BBs. Three landed in 0.476-inches but the other two opened the group to 2.808-inches at 5 meters. The group was fairly well centered on the bull.

Buck Daisy BB group
Five Daisy Premium BBs went into 2.808-inches at 5 meters, with 3 in 0.476-inches. Every shot was held perfectly.

Crosman Black Widows

The second BB I tried was the Crosman Black Widow. Five went into 1.341-inches between centers at 5 meters.

Buck Black Widow group
Five Crosman Black Widow BBs went into 1.341-inches at 5 meters.

Air Venturi Steel

Next I tried 5 Air Venturi Steel BBs. They went into a group that measures 2.409-inches between centers at 5 meters.

Buck Air Venturi group
The Buck sent 5 Air Venturi Steel BBs into 2.409-inches at 5 meters.

Hornady Black Diamond

The next BB I shot was the Hornady Black Diamond. It’s often the most accurate BB in my tests, but not this time. This time the Buck put 5 Black Diamonds in 4.508-inches at 5 meters. This is clearly the largest group of this test!

Buck Hornady group
Five Hornady Black Diamond BBs made this 4.508-inch group at 5 meters. It is the largest group of the test.

Dust Devils

Next to be tested were the Dust Devil BBs. They usually shoot into larger groups, and after the Hornady group, I was concerned they might miss the BB trap altogether. Well, they didn’t. The Buck put 5 of them in 3.233-inches at 5 meters. It is the second-largest group of the test, but still more than one inch better than the Black Diamonds.

Buck Dust Devil group
The Buck put 5 Dust Devil BBs in 3.233-inches at 5 meters.


Well, none of the groups was very good. The Black Widow group was the best so far, at 1.341-inches, but even that wasn’t worth shooting another 10-shot group.

It seemed to me that the Buck liked larger BBs best. I even dropped an oversized Marksman BB into the muzzle, but it was too large to enter the bore. So the only things I could think of were the Daisy Avanti Match Grade BBs that we know are on the high side of the average BB size. They are also very uniform. The Buck put 5 of them into 2.2 inches at 5 meters.

Buck Daisy Match group
Five Daisy Match Grade BBs went into 2.2-inches at 5 meters.


Okay, we found out that the Buck isn’t as fast as Daisy says, but it does shoot around 275 f.p.s., give or take. That’s all the velocity you need to shoot at soda cans.

The accuracy seems a bit lacking, but we still have to test this gun with a scope. Remember — that was what motivated me to test it in the first place. I normally don’t care to scope BB guns, but when I scoped a Red Ryder a few years ago I actually got better groups! That will be next.

Resealing the Beeman P17 air pistol: Part 1

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Beeman P17
Beeman P17 air pistol.

Today’s report is written by reader 45Bravo. This is Part 1 of his report on resealing the Beeman P17 air pistol. This report will go differently than some in the past. We will first learn how to reseal the pistol and then I will test one for you in the usual way.

If you’d like to write a guest post for this blog, please email me.

And now, over to you, 45Bravo.

Resealing the Beeman P17 air pistol

This report covers:

  • Help!
  • What it is
  • The reliability problems tend to come in 2 forms
  • Where this pistol came from
  • The repair — things you need:
  • Parts
  • The easiest and most common repair
  • Editor’s notes


My Beeman P17 pistol just died! Should I toss it and buy a new one, or should I fix it? Perhaps that sounds wasteful, but for an air pistol that costs less than $30, maybe not so much. If you haven’t been living under a rock, you probably have heard of the Beeman P17.

What it is

The Beeman P17 is a Chinese-made copy of the German-made Beeman P3, or Weihrauch HW40 PCA single stroke pneumatic pistol.

The P17 evolved from the Marksman 2004 that B.B. did a short blog on back in February 2006.

It is a single-stroke pneumatic, single shot pistol, styled after a modern semi automatic pistol. The grip is very reminiscent of a Walther P99 9mm firearm, though I have linked you to the CO2 pistol that looks the same.

The pistol has fiberoptic sights, an 11mm dovetail rail running between the front and rear sight, a very good trigger, and a dry-fire option, it also delivers excellent accuracy for the money.

The Beeman P17 has a hit-and-miss history of reliability issues that can be expected from a $30 copy of a $230 pistol.

The reliability problems tend to come in 2 forms

1. Not building pressure.
2. Dumping its air as it is cocked.

Both problems are easily repaired. Even with the reliability problems, in my opinion this is the best thirty dollars you can spend on an air pistol. Let’s get started!

Where this pistol came from

A fellow GTA forum member posted about his P17 dying after about 2500 pellets. He said he was going to buy a replacement, as he had gotten his $30 worth out of it. He wanted to upgrade to the Air Venturi V10.

I asked if I could buy it from him to write this blog about repairing them, and he kindly donated it to the cause.

My theory is, if something doesn’t cost you anything, and a replacement is inexpensive, you might as well take it apart and learn from it.

Even if you can’t put it back together when you are finished, you still have a neat bag full of spare parts, that is actually a 3D jigsaw puzzle, waiting to be assembled.

The repair — things you need:

2.5mm Allen wrench
2mm Allen wrench
Needle-nosed pliers
A 13mm wrench or an adjustable wrench
1/8-inch pin punch
A thin flat blade screwdriver to help separate the grip panels
Your favorite o-ring lube


1 #117 o-ring, for the main piston.
2 #009 o-rings, one for the breech seal, one for the valve body seal.
1 #006 o-ring, for the valve seat seal.

Many people say to use a #116 o-ring for the main piston seal, but on this particular pistol the #117 fits better.

The o-rings can be sourced online, or from local stores as they are not subjected to CO2, I bought enough for 2 reseals from a local Ace Hardware for less than $4.

Yes I could have gotten higher quality o-rings for more money, but since this is a price point pistol, I wanted to see how long hardware store o-rings will last.

The easiest and most common repair

The pistol doesn’t build pressure when pumped.

1 – Make sure the gun is unloaded.

2 – Pull the “hammer” back to open the action, (it is actually just a latch to keep the barrel latched closed.)

3 – Using the 2mm Allen wrench, loosen the set screw in the muzzle end of the piston arm.

Beeman P17 screw
Loosen the setscrew that locks the pin.

Using the punch, just push out the cross pin holding the piston in place.

Beeman P17 pin
Push the pin out.

Pull the piston out, and wipe it down and examine the o-ring. You will probably notice a small divot cut in the o-ring. This is normally caused by a small burr at the air inlet in the receiver tube.

Replace this o-ring with the largest o-ring and set it aside.

Beeman P17 burr
There is the offending burr inside the compression chamber. It cuts the piston’s o-ring, destroying the airtight seal.

Beeman P17 burr detail
That tiny burr (arrow) was made when the air hole was punched into the compression chamber. It cuts the o-ring on the piston when it slides past during compression.

Looking into the opening of the receiver tube, you will see a small hole at the front that allows air to enter when the barrel is fully extended in its cocking stroke.

As you run your finger over the port on the inside of the compression chamber, you will feel a burr if there is one. We need to remove that burr or it will cut the next piston o-ring, and the next and the next…

Tip: I put paper towels inside the main tube to clean and seal the tube.

Using 0000 steel wool, you remove the burr. When you are finished, any particles of steel wool will be removed when you take out the paper towel.

If your pistol was not building pressure, but you could feel some resistance when cocking, you can now lube the piston and o-ring (the manual says to use white lithium grease,) and reinsert the piston in the tube. Replace the front pin and tighten the setscrew to hold pin in place and you are done.

Cock the pistol, point it in a safe direction, and function test the pistol by dry-firing. Hopefully it is fixed. Unfortunately that was not the case with the pistol I got, so that is something I will cover in Part 2.

Editor’s notes

I never had a problem with my Beeman P17. After 15+ years it still functions fine. But like many of you I have wondered what the differences are between the genuine German-made Beeman P3 and the Chinese-made P17. The prices are so far apart that there must be some differences.

When I was at IWA (the German SHOT Show in Nuremberg) in 2006, Hans Weihrauch, Jr. told me his company fixes P17s (they were called Marksman 2004s at that time) because people think his company made them. They do it to maintain goodwill, though there was not a licensing agreement between them and the Chinese back then. I don’t know if there is one today. What can the differences possibly be?

Because this pistol is a classic and because I am curious, I bought a used Beeman P3 off Ebay to examine. It comes with a $200 premium dot sight and the price for everything including shipping was less than that, so like 45Bravo mentioned, I won’t be out anything. And with this report plus the one that’s coming I will be able to fix it if anything goes wrong. Just for fun I followed this post and disassembled my P17’s piston. I then cleaned it and lubed it with lithium grease. The inlet hole in my pistol had no burr.

When I test the P17 for you after this resealing report is finished, I plan to move on and also cover the P3. Maybe we will finally learn the difference between a $30 pistol and one that looks similar yet sells for $230!

Ataman BP17 PCP bullpup air rifle: Part 3

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Ataman BP17
Ataman BP17 Soft Touch bullpup PCP air rifle.

Part 1
Part 2

This report covers:

  • Scope
  • Nomad air compressor
  • The test
  • Sight-in
  • JSB Exact Jumbo
  • Trigger
  • RWS Superdome
  • Hades pellet
  • Is the JSB Jumbo more accurate?
  • Summary

Today we begin testing the Ataman BP17 PCP bullpup air rifle for accuracy. Today’s test will be at 25 yards . Before I could do that, though, I had to mount a sight.


I mounted the Aeon 8-32X50 SF scope in UTG P.O.I. high rings. I linked you to regular P.O.I. high rings but the ones I used were 35mm offset. Pyramyd Air doesn’t seem to carry those.

Ataman BP17 P.O.I. rings
I mounted the 8-32 scopes in UTG P.O.I. offset rings. Notice that the 8-32 power scope does not come to the end of this bullpup’s muzzle. The Aeon scope is really compact!

Nomad air compressor

I tried to fill the rifle and found that my largest 98 cubic-foot  carbon fiber air tank would only fill to 3,800 psi. The smaller 88 cubic-foot tank has even less air at this time, but fortunately I had left the Nomad II compressor hooked up. It only took a minute to attach to the rifle and finish the fill to 300 bar (4,350 psi). I’m starting to really appreciate that Nomad compressor for its convenience!

The test

I shot all targets from a bench at 25 yards with the rifle rested on a sandbag. I used a rear bag to steady the rifle even more.

I decided to shoot 7-shot groups since that’s what the magazine holds.


I sighted in the rifle with the first 7 shots. I made certain the groups would be below the aim point because this Ataman has a reputation for pinpoint accuracy and I didn’t want to blow away my reference point.

JSB Exact Jumbo

The first pellet I tested was the .22 caliber JSB Exact Jumbo that Tyler Patner had tested in his video. He shot 7 shots at 45 yards and I was shooting at 25 yards, so my groups promised to be a little smaller. Seven pellets from the test rifle went into 0.237-inches at 25 yards. That’s a tight little group! Tyler put 7 of the same pellets into 0.38-inches at 45 yards.

Ataman BP17 JSB Jumbo group 1
Seven JSB Exact Jumbo pellets went into that tiny group at 25 yards.


The super-light trigger was no problem for this test because the rifle was benchrested. But I would still like the trigger to have a precise second stage.

JSB Exact Monster

The second pellet I tried was the heavyweight JSB Exact Monster. You will remember that this was the pellet that generated the most power in Part 2. I could hear these pellets going noticeably slower than the ones before, and they landed even lower on the target. Seven of these pellets went into 0.384-inches at 25 yards — another good group! Tyler didn’t mention testing this pellet in his review.

Ataman BP17 JSB Monster group
Seven JSB Monsters went into 0.384-inches at 25 yards.

RWS Superdome

Next I tested 7 RWS Superdome pellets. I thought they would strike the target about where the first pellets had or perhaps even higher since they are lighter, but they didn’t. In fact they landed so low that parts of the lowest pellet holes are off the target paper. So, I measured this group with the target still taped to the backer board, to get the exact size. Seven Superdomes went into 0.545-inches between centers at 25 yards. Since the JSB pellets are so accurate, I don’t believe I will shoot Superdomes in this rifle anymore.

Ataman BP17 RWS Superdome group
Seven RWS Superdome pellets went into 0.545-inches at 25 yards. The lowest pellets were off the paper, so I had to measure the group with the target still taped to the backer board.

Hades pellet

The last pellet I tested was the JSB Hades pellet that has proven to be so accurate. It weighs the same as the JSB Jumbo pellet, so I expected it to shoot the same or better. But it didn’t.

This pellet also landed so low that I had to measure the group with the target still attached to the backer board. Seven Hades pellets made a 0.47-inch group at 25 yards. That’s not bad, but the Jumbo pellet I shot at the first target was more accurate.

Ataman BP17 JSB Hades group
Seven JSB Hades pellets made a 0.47-inch group at 25 yards. It’s pretty good, but not special.

Is the JSB Jumbo more accurate?

After shooting the Hades group I wondered if the JSB Jumbo pellet really was more accurate, or was I perhaps getting tired at this point in the test? So I shot a final 7-shot group with the JSB Jumbo. This time 7 pellets went into 0.295-inches at 25 yards. That is a little larger than the first group. but it’s also smaller than the Hades group. So it appears in this BP17, the Jumbo pellet shoots better than the Hades pellet.

Ataman BP17 JSB Jumbo group 2
The second 7 JSB Jumbos went into 0.295-inches between centers at 25 yards. It’s larger than the first group, but not by much. It’s the second-smallest group of the test.

I think it’s pretty clear that of the 4 pellets I tested in the BP17 so far, the JSB Jumbos are the most accurate.

The rifle handled well and had no failures to feed. I did remove the clip with one pellet left inside twice (can’t count to 7 I guess), but all I had to do was insert it again and pull the cocking lever forward 8 times. The pellet is guaranteed to be in the breech if you do that. Don’t do it with more than a single pellet left in the clip.

The rifle holds pretty well for a bullpup. Bullpups aren’t my favorite rifles to shoot because they are too easy to cant, but with concentration you can get past that.


The Ataman BP17 is performing like it should. It isn’t as picky about pellets as some PCPs, but it does favor some pellets over others. The Lothar Walther barrel gives it an overall good chance for success.

I thought the 300-bar fill would be a problem, but since I have the Nomad II compressor available, it’s a breeze. I think I will keep the compressor up and running as we head into the 50-yard test that comes next. That will be outdoors, and because the Nomad II works off a car battery, too, I think I will go on using it.